Simple TBI build

[redneckwheelman2]

i havent seen a stock wired truck before but i think gm had the power for the truck hooked threw the starter lug. i have mine hooked to the alternator.

the one thing i noticed with the harness in my 87 is there is two different power suply wires for the fuse block. one for most of the interior then the other runs the headlights, and most if not all interior lights i believe. just found that out yesterday.
so there should be a big red one on the very top left and left center of the engine side of the fuse block harness those i believe should be the constant hot wires.
top left is the one that controls lights and more probly

have touched or redid every wire in this thing it seems like doing the harness swap. so far the last wire i need to hook up is the oil pressure sensor.

[redneckwheelman2]

also i think the wire from the battery to either junction block or alternator is a black with a red stripe

[chris989]

solved, i think,

Well i took most of the harness back apart because for a brief moment i had current. I thought maybe there was a bad thermo coupling but i could not find anything,

Anyhoo, i realized i had the old battery cables out in the pile of extras and it has a separate wire that goes directly to the alternator.


should have it running tomorrow if anyone is still following this.

[68post]

Sure. Get it fired and report back.

[picklito]

Yup, still followin'...

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by picklito

Yup, still followin'...

Me too, waiting for a report back

[chris989]

I started it tonight, set the timing real quick and checked for leaks. Brake drums come on Wednesday so i hope to be 100% by the weekend.

[chris989]

Motor fired right up, ran for about 30 minutes with zero codes. did a little data logging ( not really worth much not driving around) and the computer was having no issue with the cam.

My oil pressure sits at 30psi not running and pegs high when i start it. Just another headache to deal with,, I assume it is the sender. If anyone knows the answer to this sender and can save me a headache it would be great.

This weekend i will have the truck out and report back with data and with any changes to the bin if necessary. If i can, i will make a video.

[picklito]

I've got one step up Lunati cam, but it's going in my 402. Did you have a smooth idle or a little lumpy?

[Ol Blue K20]

Great to hear, hopefully iit will stay code free while driving.

[Greenlee]

Nice build!

I wouldn't be surprised if you get an egr code after driving it a while. I had this problem and was told running headers causes it. Something about too free flowing of an exhaust not allowing the egr to heat up. I had Harris Performance reprogram the chip not to read egr and that solved the problem of the light. I also switched to a heated O2 sensor.

Good luck with the rest of the build!

[chris989]

Originally Posted by picklito

I've got one step up Lunati cam, but it's going in my 402. Did you have a smooth idle or a little lumpy?

Honestly the cam sounds stock.

I am running headers with a magnaflow cat and the OEM muffler.

[chris989]

Originally Posted by Greenlee

Nice build!

I wouldn't be surprised if you get an egr code after driving it a while. I had this problem and was told running headers causes it. Something about too free flowing of an exhaust not allowing the egr to heat up. I had Harris Performance reprogram the chip not to read egr and that solved the problem of the light. I also switched to a heated O2 sensor.

Good luck with the rest of the build!

With the old exhaust system I had to switch to the heated 02 sensor. With the new exhaust I installed the bung in the driver collector and installed the single wire (non heated) 02 hoping it would read ok. During the break-in the ECM would go into closed loop only when the RPM would go above ~1500. If left at an idle it would drop out, I am guessing the exhaust was not hot enough for the sensor to read.

I will be installing the 3wire 02 now. The single was more of a "what if".

Not sure how to load excel file for the data if any of you are interested. The one thing i notice is i have a high knock count. I will look into that.

[picklito]

Originally Posted by chris989

Honestly the cam sounds stock.

I am running headers with a magnaflow cat and the OEM muffler.

Perfect! What kind of idle vacuum are you seeing?

[chris989]

Originally Posted by picklito

Perfect! What kind of idle vacuum are you seeing?

I have not put a vac gauge on it yet, the MAP reading in the data show ~32-35.

I will have a better reading next time logging

[redneckwheelman2]

how do you like the lokar linkage? after i fix my oil cooler line leak im going to get to moving my stock one around and see what i come up with for it too work

[chris989]

Originally Posted by redneckwheelman2

how do you like the lokar linkage? after i fix my oil cooler line leak im going to get to moving my stock one around and see what i come up with for it too work

I was going to do a short write up about the 4l80 swao after i was done. The lokage linkage was worth every penny. There is no need to even fool with the OEM stuff. The OEM is complete garbage compared to the Lokar.

I used the the linkage kit (not the cable) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-aca-1800. the rod is about 1/2inch short for my truck so i used a coupling nut and a small length of bolt to make it longer. you could use a stud extender too. Lokar sells a longer rod http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-1832. I ordered it but have not installed it yet.


I had to make a slight bend in the rod (just a few degrees) to help clear the firewall. But i can not stress enough how much better it is than the original stuff. The arm on the transmission can be clocked in any degree and it has a slot that allows the rod to be fastened so it can have a plenty of pull/push.

The only thing to keep in mind is you need a line of site between the column and the trans. I will take a few pics today and post them later.

Chris

[chris989]

I finally got the brakes done and took the truck out today. I am happy to report the things runs great. I did not get on it hard but it ran effortlessly up the mountain at 65.

I really liked the 456 gears and 33s. it runs ~2000 rpm at 65 in OD. (speedometer is off 10% and it is a little hard to read the laptop while driving. I will get a more accurate RPM when i have the GPS on)
I only went for about 20 miles but there were no codes. I am running a non-heated o2 and it will work but i think the heated sensor is needed for closed loop at lower idle speeds, the exhaust just isn't hot enough for a reading.


Here is the data from the short trip.

INT table. all of the readings are close to 128.


The BLM is correcting well and keeping the AFR close enough for now. From the look of it the fuel is a little rich and that is what the BLM is lower than 128. If i understand it right the BLM is pulling a little fuel out to get the AFR back to stoich.


I was getting a few knock counts at cruising speed (2200rpm at 60map) I have no ides what the random 200 plus counts are at 800 rpm??

My tuning skills are not great, in the past it has only been for trouble shooting. I will change the oil and run some miles on it this week and report back. I will update at the end with a real world parts list for any of you thinking about the 4l80 or the TBI build.

The real test will be to pick up the trailer and head up the mountain grade and see how it does.

[redneckwheelman2]

what are you using for tuning and datalogging software?
im a member on another site that trying to pick up as much tuning info as possible so i can tune my motor with the vortec heads once its road worthy

[chris989]

Originally Posted by redneckwheelman2

what are you using for tuning and datalogging software?
im a member on another site that trying to pick up as much tuning info as possible so i can tune my motor with the vortec heads once its road worthy

the files i posted are from winaldl. it is free and data logs easily to a laptop. I have tunerproRT for bin corrections. (i think it was $40). I find tunerpro a headache. I am sure it is because I am new to it. The program feels clunky, especially when multiple tables are open but it gets the job done.


The biggest cost is in the autoprom to burn the chip.. http://www.moates.net/apu1-autoprom-....html?cPath=64

if you have nothing now you might look into http://www.dynamicefi.com/

I have not used i. I think you still need software to modify the bin but it replaces the old computer??

[redneckwheelman2]

That dynamic efi doesn't look to bad and I am kinda planning on getting the apu1 just since it is all in a kit and since it can be used as an emulator too from what I hear. Kinda like the ostrich moates sells but have the capability to burn chips and what not with the apu1 kit.

[chris989]

I have the autoprom and it is nice to emulate while tuning. Right now the truck is running off the software and not the OEM chip. I can always burn a chip for you but you will still need.
http://www.moates.net/g2-memory-adap....html?cPath=64
http://www.moates.net/g2-memory-adap...ml?cPath=25_36

best to call moates to find out which adapter works with your computer.

[chris989]

Originally Posted by picklito

Perfect! What kind of idle vacuum are you seeing?

Picklito,

Finally put a gauge on it, 17.5 inch at 700 rpm.

[chris989]

Originally Posted by picklito

I've got one step up Lunati cam, but it's going in my 402. Did you have a smooth idle or a little lumpy?

Here is a short video of the cam sound, this is with the headers, 2.5 exhaust into a single 3", magnaflow cat and stock muffler. can not get it to load to the site so the links takes you to photobucket

[picklito]

Thanks for the follow-up! Sounds great. What's your initial timing? I'm wondering if there's a little more vacuum to be found with a little more idle advance?