1966 C10 Daily Driver

[64longbedcustom]

Awesome! Unbelievable work!
Would love to get a LS in mine. Everyone makes it look so easy

[Captainfab]

Now you know you can't post that without a video.........

Originally Posted by KenAdams

Motor cranked and running.

[KenAdams]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Now you know you can't post that without a video.........

I know, I was recording but the exhaust was shaking the garage so much my phone kept falling down. This week was a milestone, It is the last time before the last time the cab goes on. Next step is to finish the cab.

-I need to assemble the brake & clutch to make sure it is all going to work out.
-Smooth some inner rocker welds and put on the outer rockers.
-Flip it on it's back and strip the old undercoating/crud.
-Spray some new undercoating or bed liner.
-Assemble, assemble, assemble, drive.

Took the glass out. This is actually two hours after cleaning up some gum like substance that was under the gasket. What a mess. I really, really want a high rise intake. To much free space.


Pedals and brackets are back from the powdercoater. Time to mock up it all up.

[KenAdams]

I posted in the general forum, but have been working on setting up the steering. I found a rebuild kit, but couldn't find the plug that goes on the bottom of the stering gear. I finally found an 1-3/8" welch plug part number #550-019 from advance auto that worked perfect and looked oem. I am going to stick with manual steering for now. So I completly rebuilt the steering box, I just need to paint it and throw it on.

All disassembled, cleaned, bushings pressed out, and sandblasted


Major components put back together


The missing plug with a new plug


Otherside:

[ChuckLee]

just had a great time reading your thread! subbed! man, you are close by.....and doing a t56 build! YES!
Now I can steal ideas and help from another manual swap guy!
What part of richmond are you in?

There are 2 driveshaft shops i know of in richmond.

Also, yes........get a taller intake, will be sweet..and you can sell your ls3 top on local clubs. I went with a edelbrock 7139 (honestly, for looks more than performance, lol)

I just buttoned up my saginaw steering box last night, HATE those nylon washers, but finally figured out how to get them in without busting them.

[Low Elco]

Nice work! We have a plant in Ashland, I'll have to come look at this next time i'm out!

[aggie91]

I liked your rebuild on the steering gear. I need to do the same to mine at some point, mine is missing that same plug on the end.

[graymage]

looks like it's going to be fun

[KenAdams]

Missed taking photos of a couple steps, but last week I primed and painted the steering gear and got it mounted. I also decided to clear the new tie rod ends and spindles. They all had started to rust in the garage already I knew it was only going to get worse. Today I was able to get the calipers mounted and the rims came in. Hopefully an update tomorrow when I get the tires mounted.

[KenAdams]

She is rolling again, soon to be put on a trailer to an exhaust shop once I pull the cab off again. I went back and forth a couple times but finally decided to go Roadkill tribute with some 17x8 Soft 8s with 235/60R17 all the way around for now. I bought some 1500 Centercaps that I will put on when they come in. I couldn't wait and threw on the fender on to check the stance, I like it.

[ChuckLee]

Like it like it!

[RDrancher]

The wheels look killer!

[KenAdams]

Not big news, but exciting to me. My hub centers came in. I could only find used ones so it looks like I'll be refinishing them.



I've always loved cubbers truck. I took the inspiration from him:

Originally Posted by cubber

[RDrancher]

I like the way that truck looks as well. I almost went with the Soft 8's on my Burb, but ended up going with Cragar Delux. I used spinner centers for a different feel. Pics in my sig link if you're interested.

[KenAdams]

So even better news I guess I spazzed and it is really easy to find these hubcap centers brand new, instead of refinishing the ones I have I am going to return the eBay one's I bought and buy brand new ones. If anyone else is doing this I used:

-1/2x20 dual thread lug nuts.
-GM# 15646250 Lug Nut Caps
-GM# 15635473 Black Hub Cap / Hub Center (casting# 46249 is the black cap and the chrome cap is casting # 46254 or GM# 15635450)
-GM# 15635451 Chevrolet Emblem Sticker (GM# 15634862 is the GM Emblem)

[KenAdams]

Have the cab off for the last time, and am putting on the exhaust. I am using Flowmaster kit 17654 for the 67-72. Not sure that I am going to keep the mufflers in the long run, but for the amount of mandrel bent pipe and fitment I would make the same purchase again. The only other item I ordered was some cheap two bolt steel header flanges from Amazon, I already had the O2 sensor bungs from the motor purchase. I think the kit would actually be a one hour install if I wasn't routing it through the trailing arm cross member, the kit was meant to run everything under for the H pipe to mount up correctly. I'm also making my own mid pipes, and am going to have to do some slice, splice and pie cuts to get around the panhard bar.

Motor looking back, I'll be cutting of the rest of the H pipes and creating my own to run under the transmission.


Kit actually fits pretty good through the cross memeber.


I made mid pipes from what could be used as 90 degree tail pipe turn outs:


Not perfectly aligned yet, but the tail pipes look light they'll be on point to dump right under the rear bumper.

[ChuckLee]

I hate you

[KenAdams]

Thanks . Hey that exhaust should fit your truck. Fits really really well, and there is plenty of pipe for a long bed.

[KenAdams]

The person designing this kit must have said f-it lets just give them all 4 options for an exhaust exit. Works great for me, plenty of extra pipe to make my mid pipes. Might as well go ahead and start planning for some cut outs or muffle bypass while I'm in here.



Stack of left overs:

[ChuckLee]

At over $500 i am surprised it's not SS. At least it's aluminkzed though.

[KenAdams]

Yea they make the same kit in stainless but it is a hundred more, but I don't have gas for stainless. I think I might try that high temp paint for some extra protection.

[ChuckLee]

I don't have gas for Stainless either, lol, but That's the metal tubing I bought (the cheap summit SS piping). I bought the right wire for my gas mig, but probably will just use my regular 2 part gas and just expect the welds all the get rusty. Even if u have the right gas u will get rusty welds over time unless you correctly back purge it which I won't be doing. My thinking was, it's better to have the welded areas get rusty than the entire exhaust. I may be seriously flawed in my thinking. Haha

[KenAdams]

Some more slow progress. Nothing new except I was able to get the cross over mocked up. Took a little bit of time to cut off the original H pipe tubes, and find the perfect radius tube to go under the transmission, but not lower than the frame rails. Cutting the notches was a blast too, I don't have a tubing notcher but I did find this website: Tube Coping Calculator, where you can print wrap around templates that worked perfect.

[siggyfreud]

Exhaust looks awesome. Didn't realize they had kits for our trucks. I think I used a flow master universal. Probably could have saved a lot of time with a little more research. Doh!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by KenAdams

Some more slow progress. Nothing new except I was able to get the cross over mocked up. Took a little bit of time to cut off the original H pipe tubes, and find the perfect radius tube to go under the transmission, but not lower than the frame rails. Cutting the notches was a blast too, I don't have a tubing notcher but I did find this website: Tube Coping Calculator, where you can print wrap around templates that worked perfect.

Exhaust is looking nice. Any concerns about trans/clutch service w/the h-pipe under the tail-shaft vs. moving it slightly farther back?