Project "Hulk Jr"

[First c10]

Driver side view

[7dee2]

Oh yes paint that axle! Thinking we might try that rust encapsulator on old blue this spring. Your guys work looks great as usual!

[First c10]

Ok guys have a question/problem. I got the motor and trans put together. When I went to put the torque converter bolts through the flex plate there was a gap about 1/4". I was able to put the short bolts in and tighten them down. But after I thought about it is this correct? I felt like it had to flex the plate towards the torque converter.

Next is that I kept the motor in the original location even though I thought about moving it forward 2" since I am going to have a new driveline built anyway. After I got it in with the taller valve covers I am too close for comfort and will be moving it forward. Also the oil pan is about 1/4" away from the crossmember. Would there be a problem to raise the motor 1/2" at the crossmember or is there enough room in the cross member bolt hole to move it 1/4 back as I have it all the way forward to miss the firewall. I am probably going to get a different pan no matter? Since the pan is a chrome one I am thing about just changing the pan to something that won't rust.
This is what happens when I try and save a buck or not change things to much.
I should have just got a good pan and moved the motor forward. Anybody have a part number to a good SBC oil pan that fits???

[First c10]

Pretty tight in the back and a lot of room up front.

[First c10]

This truck is driving me crazy as I was expecting the motor to just drop in...
OK so I ordered a new oil pan that is supposed to fit. but am thinking about raising the motor mounts by either getting thicker motor mounts or adding 1/2" aluminum spacer between the mount and the pedestal. What do you think? are there different thickness of motor mounts for the SBC?

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by First c10

Ok guys have a question/problem. I got the motor and trans put together. When I went to put the torque converter bolts through the flex plate there was a gap about 1/4". I was able to put the short bolts in and tighten them down. But after I thought about it is this correct? I felt like it had to flex the plate towards the torque converter.

Flex plate should be recessed where the TC bolts go, should be oriented to the rear to allow the TC to stay as far back as possible.

Originally Posted by First c10

Next is that I kept the motor in the original location even though I thought about moving it forward 2" since I am going to have a new driveline built anyway. After I got it in with the taller valve covers I am too close for comfort and will be moving it forward. Also the oil pan is about 1/4" away from the crossmember. Would there be a problem to raise the motor 1/2" at the crossmember or is there enough room in the cross member bolt hole to move it 1/4 back as I have it all the way forward to miss the firewall. I am probably going to get a different pan no matter? Since the pan is a chrome one I am thing about just changing the pan to something that won't rust.
This is what happens when I try and save a buck or not change things to much.
I should have just got a good pan and moved the motor forward. Anybody have a part number to a good SBC oil pan that fits???

Will the original Gen2 factory pan work? Is it shallower in that area compared to your new pan?

[First c10]

Hey Brett, after reading a little about it the TC and flex plate should have 1/8-3/16" gap that is normal not sure but I think I will be removing the motor to move the cross member forward and make a little shim after I get the new oil pan and will separate the motor and trans and check the center hub of the TC where it fits in the crank.

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Will the original Gen2 factory pan work? Is it shallower in that area compared to your new pan?

if they are different is has to be a 1/4-1/2" because they look the same but I ordered a new one anyway.

[First c10]

OK so for good measure. I pulled the motor and trans so I could separate the trans from the engine and check the TC to flex plate. it looked good no binding or interference. so I re-attached it and now just waiting on the new oil pan.

I did move the crossmember 2-1/4" forward. why 2-1/4"s well the driver side frame had 2 holes already I think the 6 cylinder location, so all I had to do was drill the passenger side and lower frame rail holes. It did put the crossmember close to the top of the axle but sill have over 4" of travel before the crossmember would hit the axle. with the new add a leafs and how stiff the spring is now I think it will be OK. Before I started this project the cross member was about the same height as the top of the third member.

[DWilbur]

My tranny guy said 1/8" gap is ok any more then he recommends shimming the gap to keep a the TC engaged all the way.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

My tranny guy said 1/8" gap is ok any more then he recommends shimming the gap to keep a the TC engaged all the way.

Hey David. How have you been? Thank you for the info. I read 1/8-3/16 was ok. I wonder if I should just add a 1/8" shim. Wouldn't hurt.

[First c10]

Not sure if you can tell but I got the new pan installed. I think it was either the same or bigger than the chrome one I had. I went ahead and changed it as I didn't what any trouble with having a chrome pan on a 4wd truck that will be used.

I did have to shim the motor mount a 1/4" since the pan was to close for me to leave.

The rear trans crossmember from the 86 burb I got it and the np208 tcase has a drop of about 2". The stock 68 crossmember has a drop of 3-3 1/4" wouldn't you know that 3" is about right. of the what the original crossmember is I decided to use the burb crossmember and drop it 1". It will leave more room for the tc brace and exhaust. I will take some pictures tomorrow.

[First c10]

Got a chance to get the motor where is needs to be. I move the motor abou 1-1/4" forward and also of room in the back, the front and oil pan.

I started on getting things added to the motor like ps,starter, wiring etc.

I will post pictures as Apple devices only let you post 1 picture at a time. (Stupid)
The bungee is holding up the swaybar up I have to build mounts for.

[First c10]

This is how much room I have in the back. HEI dizzy will fit fine back there no problem.

[First c10]

Picture standing back admiring it!!!

[First c10]

Check this out. The picture of the starting mounting flange. I was about to get a starter out of a 1998 Tahoe 4wd. It is a mini starter. Since they are 350-5.7L half the dice and third the weight. I forgot to take a picture after I installed it. I will update today.

[First c10]

Can someone that has used this joint for the steering tell me how they secured it. The stock one would not come apart as long as the bolt was still in. This chrome one just has Allen set screws and jam nuts. If they come loose the shaft can drop. I was thinking about drilling a small hole and putting in a cotter pin.
Any info or comment would be appreciated

[First c10]

The brake wire that goes from the firewall plug to the proportioning valve needs a different plug from the stock one. Anyone know where to get it or what it is called?

[7dee2]

Several vendors carry the "Brake Light Warning Switch Socket and Wire" but here is a link to one I believe you need if the early style does not fit. http://www.inlinetube.com/#!product/...e-lead---pr201

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Several vendors carry the "Brake Light Warning Switch Socket and Wire" but here is a link to one I believe you need if the early style does not fit. http://www.inlinetube.com/#!product/...e-lead---pr201

Thanks Brett. I did a quick search and got nothing that looked close. You nailed it.

I had to order stock manifolds as my headers I had would not fit.

Spent some time on the truck this weekend but feel I am not getting anywhere. I hate that feeling.

[First c10]

Picture of the 1998 5.7 starter. It looks just like the LS style starters.

[First c10]

Check out the room at the dizzy!!!

Not sure if you can see but I installed my transfer case vent to the trans and ran it up to the back of the motor. It has a yellow clamp just left of the vacuum advance diaphragm.

[DWilbur]

I used similar type of U joint for my winch I machined flat spot for the set screws and blue lock tight. or you could drill through the shafts and through bolt them.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I used similar type of U joint for my winch I machined flat spot for the set screws and blue lock tight. or you could drill through the shafts and through bolt them.

I was thinking about drilling a hole in it and either a bolt or cotter pin so if it came loose it would not separate.

[First c10]

Get the swaybar brackets fab'ed. Turned out pretty good. After I took the picture I painted them.
Just waiting on parts to finish a few other things so I can put the front clip on.

[First c10]

The ram horm manifolds came in. I had to machine off the bosses to clear the center bolt valve covers.