Moody's Utah 58 Apache

[_Ogre]

that hornet nest is what nightmares are made of...

i suggest you throw the front fenders on to check alignment to the doors. everything can be shimmed and typically was from the factory. you can shim the rad support with washers, or either cab mount. a couple years ago, martinsr posted a pic from the 57 of factory adjustment method of closing the door on a piece of oak before going into the paint shop.

if the top back of the door is jammed to the frame while everything else works, you can jack the door pillar/firewall forward. my cab was dropped on the firewall, luckily we had an old school body guy working in the shop at the time. he'd jack a bit and then go around the frame with a 5lb hammer relieving stress. any impact to the front can do the same.

if you've removed the trans mount x-member, this can also lead to the front cab mounts sagging down and pinching fenders to doors gap.

[alexMoody]

Well, long time no post, I moved into a much larger house and have space and do not have to pull the truck out of the covered area to work on it. I actually have a garage now that I can work in. I had to run a new sub panel so I could get my welder working.

I did some more rust repair on the cab. There was a surprising amount of old newspaper behind the bondo on this side. It went up in flames quickly. I also got 16 gauge steel to do the inner cab corner delete. I have seen a few post pictures and it just looks classy, and also because the inner cab corners are bad too. I have to do the front passenger cab corner, the part where the front fender mounts to the cab was to far gone on that side. Parts are ordered along with door hinge bushings and a few various other items.

I was also given a 305 motor that is complete. I should be getting that by the end of the month I'm not sure if the transmission will come with it or not but I can at least use the sm420? Or at least from other threads I have read I can with a different bellhousing.

[alexMoody]

Its been a minute but I've got progress and questions.

Got the corners replaced and inner cab corner plates in. Carpet and and interior seals put in and have started the electrical. I'm using a painless kit and have come to the point of the turn signals. I have a signal stat 800 and I've looked through a few others post about it. I just want to make sure I'm understanding this 3 prong flasher part before I continue.

The instructions say to splice the two purple wires on the flasher side of the fuse box together and this is done with butt connectors. Then on the clamp on part of the instructions it says to have purple wire #952 go to the lead "x" of the flasher. The Blue wire coming off the signal stat 800 goes to the light on the switch which would be "p" and then the Yellow would be the power for the switch that would go to "L". ? As always thanks for the advice and tips. Ill do another post with progress pictures.

Pictures for reference

[alexMoody]

Here are some more progress pictures.

[Bigt94550]

Alex, would you please post a pic of how you mounted the fuse block on the painless kit? That's the step I am on and looking for ideas.
Troy

[alexMoody]

Originally Posted by Bigt94550

Alex, would you please post a pic of how you mounted the fuse block on the painless kit? That's the step I am on and looking for ideas.
Troy

Yeah, I made a bracket out of 1/8 that stepped off the firewall about 1 inch and I used 1/4-20 bolts to attach it. I used a nut setter on the firewall.

The second picture has the wires coming down, that was just for mock up, they have been moved to come out the top of the bracket or the "U" part.

You can obviously mount it where ever you like. I went with the "easy to get to" route.

[dsraven]

nice clean work. thanks for posting your pics.

[bowt1ed]

I made a similar bracket, but it uses the hood hinge bolts in lieu of drilling more holes in firewall. Cheers, Jim

[Bigt94550]

Thanks Jim and Alex. I was leaning the hood hinge bolts way, but the visuals are super helpful.

[alexMoody]

Here is a link to a video I made. This is how I did the ammeter to volt gauge conversion. While it was easy to do, I was nervous to get into it because there wasn't really a good reference page on how it was done. It was definitely easier that I thought it was going to be. The whole process took less than one hour.

I liked how Ogre used the original gauge plate and I wanted to keep it looking stock as well. Thanks for the inspiration. Hopefully this little video helps others!

https://youtu.be/b51VpyNE1FY

[alexMoody]

Photos of the finished conversion. I used kydex on the back for a spacer and I also shrink wrapped a little bit of the studs to isolate it from making contact with the metal frame of the cluster. Not sure if it was needed but it made me feel better. Also got 3MM washers and nuts to add to the studs.

[alexMoody]

I've gotten quite a bit done. I finished all the wiring and got the fuel tank in and moved to the back of the bed. I got the Retro manufacturing radio and speakers in for behind the bench seat.

I'm stuck on the original electric wiper though and need some help!

I believe I am missing a few things for the arms to attach to the motor which I have circled in red on the first image. Also, the passenger wiper arm doesn't come close to lining up with the spot its supposed to. its about an inch off when in the park position.

The wipers is really the last thing before I am finished with the inside of the cab and can put the seat back in.

Thanks in advance on any help with the wiper arms!

[dsraven]

here is a shot from the assembly manual. dunno if that helps.

[dsraven]

if you have the manual downloaded from the trifive site I think you'll find the wiper info on page 108 or so.
this doesn't show the electric version but it shows the arms and components, how they fit together, etc

[alexMoody]

Thanks dsraven.

I actually have a copy of that book and its sect. 1 sheet 53. It’s been helpful to have in person instead of having to look it up online.

Unfortunately that isn’t the same wiper motor. So this particular diagram doesn’t help me too much with my question and problem.

Thank you though for the reply!

[dsraven]

I have s stock electric set up. I'll try to find it and see what it has for parts and how it sets up etc. Not sure if a left arm and pivot could be put on a right?
Letcha know what I find.

[dsraven]

ooi, found my wiper stuff in the attic. heres some pics.
hope it helps.

[dsraven]

the last of then.
note the arms are marked L and R. dunno if you needed that part or not.
let me know if you need any other pics.

[alexMoody]

Originally Posted by dsraven

the last of then.
note the arms are marked L and R. dunno if you needed that part or not.
let me know if you need any other pics.

I have a different wiper motor. This is the one I have. It has the piston for the "park" position and a Hi and Low speed. The driver side or Left side is already attached. Ive ordered new bushing, brass gear, and clip for the Right side. The right side is about 1 inch off from being able to line up. More or less, that what I'm confused on is the right or passenger side transmission arms for the wiper.

[dsraven]

never seen one of those. maybe a dealer installed aftermarket from back in the day?

[mr48chev]

If you don't have it here is the wiring diagram for the 800 turn signal switch.

[alexMoody]

Here is a better view of what I'm working on. As you can see from the photos that the linkage doesn't line up. I've taken the cam part off to see if it was on backwards but it isn't. As far as I can tell I have the correct arms as well. Its easily two inches off. I've only been able to find this one link to a service manual but it doesn't mention the arm assembly at all and how they should go. The arm is stamped Right so I know its the passenger side.

Any thoughts? Any one?

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.co...s51d11800.html

[dsraven]

if it were me, I would fab a new one with off the shelf bushings and small squarw tubing or rod. if it doesn't work you still have the original.

[nvrdone]

Having fought the wipers on my '49, it looks to me like the arm is simply on the wrong pivot point. Have you tried switching the arm to the other pivot? Just a thought

[leegreen]

So both arms go on that one pivot and the pivot travels in a full circle?
And the pivot can slide in and out a bit after loosening that nut to adjust the maximum sweep angle?

Could you problem be you have the arms at the wiper end pointing the wrong way? (See figure 2 in the PDF you linked), the transmission oscillating arm could point up or down and it makes a big difference where the arm sits for park position.

On the older trucks with two pivots on the oscillating vacuum motor you can put the arms either way up if you also swap the pivots - but one way works much better than the other.