47-55.1 '50 3600 re-do. Shortening things up!

[mobileortho]

Pretty much done with the exhaust. I ended up switching from 2.25” to 2.5” pipes. Picked up the straight tubes from a local shop and ordered a Flowmaster tailpipe kit #15802 and Walker SS Quiet Flow mufflers. Cutting it close on the header ground clearance though, got 5” on the driver side & 4.5” passenger but thats with the mustang suspension completely lowered. Will probably raise it up an inch or so.

[dsraven]

Drop all the suspension and see what you have for clearance if youre worried. Go from there. Only takes a floor jack and a few minutes.

[mobileortho]

Really wanted to use the full length headers but they were too low for comfort. I really didn’t want to raise the front up either. This is Much better!

[6DoF]

those headers were a tad crazy, good call

[mobileortho]

Yeah, if the truck wasn’t lowered they’d be perfect. If anyone needs them hit me up!

[Gregski]

I dig the fuel tank

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by Gregski

I dig the fuel tank

Thank you sir!

[mobileortho]

The front coil overs and control arms have arrived. Hopefully I can get to them this weekend!

[mobileortho]

The new control arms are wider, gonna have to shim them.

[8man]

Who made them?

I'm going to lower the 54 and have been looking at front control arms is why I ask.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by 8man

Who made them?

I'm going to lower the 54 and have been looking at front control arms is why I ask.

I bought them off Ebay, but they're part of a kit from CCP.

https://www.classicperform.com/NewPr...COIL-OVERS.htm

[8man]

Thanks.

Please show the "shimming".

[mobileortho]

Will do. Haven't given much thought as to what I'll use yet. Not sure if a few washers would do the trick or not.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by 8man

Thanks.

Please show the "shimming".

I'll post a pic later, but the old ball joint space was a perfect fit.

[dsraven]

stainless steel washers work great. get the large OD with the size of ID you need. a little silicone grease works great to lube and also hold them together for assembly.
the extra width between the pivots may be a nightmare for the alignment guy because it will put the ball joint forward or back from where it may need to be. he can simply move the shims around though. if you use the body fender washer style of washer they will be thin and he can micro adjust the ball joint position by moving the shims as required. ball joint position will affect the caster.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by dsraven

stainless steel washers work great. get the large OD with the size of ID you need.

You know, I actually did that on the passenger side but when I moved on the the drivers side I discovered the ball joint spacer was a perfect fit. I didn't feel like disassembling the passenger side so I left it as is! Lol! Also, of note, the spacers have to go on the front of the crossmember. My 1st attempt was on the rear but I discovered that the coil over didn't line up with the mounting holes on the control arm.

[mobileortho]

Finished with the front coil overs. Disappointed that the sway bar I had laying around wouldn’t fit, it’s about 4” too long.

[mobileortho]

I just noticed how close the driveshaft is to the rear cab brace. There's only about 2" of clearance. Thinking I can notch this for additional space without causing any structural issues. Am I on the right track here?

[dsraven]

Lots of builds have notched that member. When you do it may be a good idea to check what you need for space with the rear suspension fully compressed. That way you know you're good no matter what or you know you need to install suspension limiters so you are safe from contact if you happen to hit one of those hidden whoopty-do bumps that sneak up on you.

[mobileortho]

Thanks for confirming and for the tip.

[dsraven]

I've seen a few who have used a section of heavy wall tubing to make the notch. Also seen a few who had to notch the back of the cab for sufficient driveshaft clearance. Seen some with a 2 piece driveshaft as well so that the forward section doesnt move up and down when the suspension moves.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I've seen a few who have used a section of heavy wall tubing to make the notch. Also seen a few who had to notch the back of the cab for sufficient driveshaft clearance. Seen some with a 2 piece driveshaft as well so that the forward section doesnt move up and down when the suspension moves.

The two piece shaft sounds pretty cool. Think I’m going to take the simplest route and cut it.

[mobileortho]

Picked a a good deal on a chromed grill. Found it on one of the Facebook AD forums. It’s new, never installed but has a very small dent on one of the bars. $300, shipping included.

[8man]

Nice find!

[joedoh]

man that is a nice score.

I really like how you stick with your project without meandering on goals. if it hasnt been mentioned before, you get a lot of my respect for that.