better ride quality

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by bigmoe

I've always suspected that aftermarket front drop coils are just stock coils that have been cut. That would be why they can't tell you what the rate is. Also with cut coils the more you cut the stiffer it gets.

True, but it's a small percentage. I recall a compression test on a series of cut coil springs that yielded a small average increase of < 20% max (I remember most being around 10%).

The springs tested were similar to the line-up of C10 springs where there were different rating specs based on the options that dictated the use of a specific coil (it wasn't a test where one spring was from a 4cyl Chevette & another from a 454 Chevelle; the springs were all from one specific make/model). It was in an old magazine I had way before the NET (probably an old Hot Rod Magazine article on lowering).

[forestb]

I am definitely going to order new front shocks, because my old ones are definitely shot. I guess this weekend I will remove the rear shocks and see how stiff it is and maybe drive it around and see how it rides with no shocks. What do you all think.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

I am definitely going to order new front shocks, because my old ones are definitely shot. I guess this weekend I will remove the rear shocks and see how stiff it is and maybe drive it around and see how it rides with no shocks. What do you all think.

This could work but I wouldn't bet on it....

The reason is because once the shock is removed, there's nothing to control the 'energy' created when the spring is compressed & extended during travel. It may allow you to feel "hey, it rides better" or it might be so bouncy that's all you notice. It's free to try though so not much to lose.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

This could work but I wouldn't bet on it....

The reason is because once the shock is removed, there's nothing to control the 'energy' created when the spring is compressed & extended during travel. It may allow you to feel "hey, it rides better" or it might be so bouncy that's all you notice. It's free to try though so not much to lose.

Only time and sweat droplets I dont like losing sweat droplets.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

Only time and sweat droplets I dont like losing sweat droplets.

You could always try the worn-out fronts on the rear if they'll fit & are similar in dimensions (on these trucks they usually are). That would help dampen the energy w/o the extreme pressure.

[forestb]

They are much different in length.

[forestb]

Is there any way to tell if it is my shocks or my springs in the rear causing harsh ride?

[forestb]

The new belltech shocks that I ordered will only have 1.5 inches of up travel. Do you all think that is enough or should I relocate the upper shock mounts? It will have around 3 inches of down travel if I don’t relocate the mounts.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by forestb

Is there any way to tell if it is my shocks or my springs in the rear causing harsh ride?

First I would try just unbolting one shock and bounce that side by hand to see if you notice a difference.

[forestb]

I just realize that the new shocks for the front will give me around 3 inches of down travel and 1.5 inches of up travel that I would need to lower my upper bracket in order to even them out. I wonder if I do need to relocate it should I try and move it away from the frame a little at the same time in order to put it in a more horizontal position.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by forestb

I just realize that the new shocks for the front will give me around 3 inches of down travel and 1.5 inches of up travel that I would need to lower my upper bracket in order to even them out. I wonder if I do need to relocate it should I try and move it away from the frame a little at the same time in order to put it in a more horizontal position.

Not unless shocks are bottoming out. The dampening is linear in most shocks. Meaning they do not change dampening rate as they compress or extend. I ran stock length shocks on my 94 with a 6/8 drop no problems for years. IMHO best way to measure shocks is to remove spring and set suspension on stops. Get a shock that has a compressed length slightly shorter. For street driven dropped vehicles I have found the extended length does not really matter much. In fact I have seen problems where "drop shocks" were installed and it made the ride bad because of limiting down travel. Topping out the shocks, not allowing suspension to follow the road. One thing I think is often overlooked by many is that a shock mounted at an angle is not moving 1 to 1 with the suspension.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Richard

Not unless shocks are bottoming out. The dampening is linear in most shocks. Meaning they do not change dampening rate as they compress or extend. I ran stock length shocks on my 94 with a 6/8 drop no problems for years. IMHO best way to measure shocks is to remove spring and set suspension on stops. Get a shock that has a compressed length slightly shorter. For street driven dropped vehicles I have found the extended length does not really matter much. In fact I have seen problems where "drop shocks" were installed and it made the ride bad because of limiting down travel. Topping out the shocks, not allowing suspension to follow the road. One thing I think is often overlooked by many is that a shock mounted at an angle is not moving 1 to 1 with the suspension.

I had issues w/my '90 single-cab swb. The rear was dropped w/a flip kit, shackles, & lower shock extension brackets. The rears tires cupped severely in less than a year. I looked into the lengths & found the shock basically couldn't compress (angle plus shock length). I swapped the stock replacement length shocks for some G-body shocks (slightly shorter & similar mounting arrangement). Put fresh tires on & no more cupping issues.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by Richard

Not unless shocks are bottoming out. The dampening is linear in most shocks. Meaning they do not change dampening rate as they compress or extend. I ran stock length shocks on my 94 with a 6/8 drop no problems for years. IMHO best way to measure shocks is to remove spring and set suspension on stops. Get a shock that has a compressed length slightly shorter. For street driven dropped vehicles I have found the extended length does not really matter much. In fact I have seen problems where "drop shocks" were installed and it made the ride bad because of limiting down travel. Topping out the shocks, not allowing suspension to follow the road. One thing I think is often overlooked by many is that a shock mounted at an angle is not moving 1 to 1 with the suspension.

When you say "topping out the shocks" do you mean over extending them? That is different than "limiting down travel correct? I'm not trying to argue. Im just looking for clarity.

[forestb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I had issues w/my '90 single-cab swb. The rear was dropped w/a flip kit, shackles, & lower shock extension brackets. The rears tires cupped severely in less than a year. I looked into the lengths & found the shock basically couldn't compress (angle plus shock length). I swapped the stock replacement length shocks for some G-body shocks (slightly shorter & similar mounting arrangement). Put fresh tires on & no more cupping issues.

"The rears tires cupped severely" what does this mean?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

"The rears tires cupped severely" what does this mean?

The tire tread started cupping = dips or waves (mainly visible/felt on the shoulders) on the tires surface:

[forestb]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The tire tread started cupping = dips or waves (mainly visible/felt on the shoulders) on the tires surface:

huh

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

huh

It's common when the shocks are not working correctly. A few thousand miles is all it takes. Lots of HD trucks (especially Fords) have the issue because they just don't have enough shock dampening for their loads. When you rub your hand over a cupped tire, the tread feels like short 2-3" 'waves' in the tread.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by forestb

When you say "topping out the shocks" do you mean over extending them? That is different than "limiting down travel correct? I'm not trying to argue. Im just looking for clarity.

A shock does not over extend. It extends as far as it can and stops. That is what I meant by topping out. Yes that is the same as limiting down travel.
Suspension should be able to cycle through the full movement (no matter how short) with out interference. Scoti mentioned he had once installed shocks that were to long, have made that mistake myself. My point was cycling the suspension and getting actual measurements will get you the numbers you need. The other way is to use a configuration that has been confirmed.

[forestb]

So my front shocks were definitely wasted. After I got them off I compressed them fully and they stayed that way. I got the new ones on and it seems better but didn’t solve the problem. I think that the rear suspension is still to stiff.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

So my front shocks were definitely wasted. After I got them off I compressed them fully and they stayed that way. I got the new ones on and it seems better but didn’t solve the problem. I think that the rear suspension is still to stiff.

Keep chipping away. Front sounds like it's improved/improving. Now on to the rear & try some new/different parts to see what it yields.

[forestb]

I think I am going to try and remove the rear shocks and see if the stiffness is in the shocks or coils.

Does anyone know if I can use 1963-66 rear coils on a 62?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

I think I am going to try and remove the rear shocks and see if the stiffness is in the shocks or coils.

Does anyone know if I can use 1963-66 rear coils on a 62?

As long as it's a truck-arm set-up, they'll swap in place. GM A/G bodies & Jeep coils will swap in too

[forestb]

Ok thanks. Just asking because belltech only sells them for 63-66 but not 60-62

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by forestb

Ok thanks. Just asking because belltech only sells them for 63-66 but not 60-62

I can't say w/100% accuracy but the 60-72 chassis only had minimal changes so I don't see why what works for a 72 wouldn't work for a 62. Biggest differences would be frame-to-chassis parts during the chassis change from Torsion bar/X-frame to A-Arm/Coil front suspension/ladder frame 62--> 63.

[forestb]

So I detached one side of both shocks so I could test the spring softness and it is definitely not the springs that are causing the problem. They had plenty of bounce. Also I could not really compress the shocks by hand. I also noticed that the part number was printed on the spring and they are not the heavy duty version. So my plan is to get some replacement shocks for the rear. The only problem that I might run into is the top shock mount making contact with the protective sleeve on the new shocks. The old shocks just had an exposed rod as seen in the previous photos. I might have to make some clearance.

For those that were asking about the space between the bottom of my bed and the differential, it looks as though there is about 4 inches of clearance.