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Old 11-03-2012, 09:47 PM   #976
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Again, really nice stuff. Everything bolted right up, no problems. Nice to have a product that performs as advertised and not have to worry about having sent them out for powder before mock-up. I painted the rotors and calipers the same scheme as the front brakes--I think they turned out well. Part of me wants to paint the calipers red, but I think the subtle grey fits this truck better...
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:52 PM   #977
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Still have to re-flare the axle hard-lines to mate up with the Kore3 braided lines--if that doesn't work, I'll just bend up some new. I like the end result; looks almost factory

In final assembly, I did find that I will need longer wheel studs and that the pad slightly contacts the rotor hub when rolling. Studs are cheap and I should be able to modify the pad backing plate to clear...
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:14 PM   #978
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Great work as always!
Is there any braking advantage to placing the caliper on the front side of the axle vs the rear side?
I would also be interested in the "longer wheel stud" part number you use.
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:27 AM   #979
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Great work as always!
Is there any braking advantage to placing the caliper on the front side of the axle vs the rear side?
I would also be interested in the "longer wheel stud" part number you use.
Thanks! From what I've read, there's no discernible advantage either way--it's just what looked right to me. I did have to swap the calipers to opposite sides to properly orient the bleeders. There are stud part numbers floating around here somewhere, I'll have to do a search. These would get me by, as they're engaging 5.5 threads, but I'd feel more comfortable with a few more turns...
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:13 AM   #980
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

A little research found this:

Stock rear stud: Dorman 610-138

Knurl Diameter 0.535
Package Quantity 10
Quick-Start Nose No
Shoulder Length 0.3125
Stud Material Steel
Thread Handling Right Hand Thread
Thread Size 1/2-20
Under Head Length 1.53125
Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud


Potential replacement: Dorman 610-258

Knurl Diameter 0.536
Package Quantity 10
Quick-Start Nose No
Shoulder Length 0.25
Stud Material Steel
Thread Handling Right Hand Thread
Thread Size 1/2-20
Under Head Length 1.71875
Wheel Stud Style Serrated Stud

So, approx 4 more threads engaged which should be 9.5-10, using the "engage the same depth as diameter" rule, on a 1/2-20 stud- this is just about perfect.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:17 AM   #981
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Thanks for the Dorman parts numbers.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:10 AM   #982
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by lolife99 View Post
Thanks for the Dorman parts numbers.
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NP! FYI, I checked the application on those studs and its what GM used on the Cadillac rear discs in the late '70s, so I think we have a winner
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:45 AM   #983
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

nice work as always. I couldn't tell for sure from the pics...but it looked like there's no inner or outer parking brake. Are you running w/o, did I miss something, or do you have something else in mind?
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:57 PM   #984
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Looking good, nice work!
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:57 PM   #985
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom View Post
nice work as always. I couldn't tell for sure from the pics...but it looked like there's no inner or outer parking brake. Are you running w/o, did I miss something, or do you have something else in mind?
No parking brake for now. The brackets accept 76-78 Eldorado calipers if I decide I want one.
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Looking good, nice work!
Thanks! Chipping away...

In related news, I picked up a 610-258 at the LAPS-- doesn't look like they will be long enough, so on to the next plan, whatever that is...
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:24 PM   #986
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Just curious. There are trans tailshaft and rear axle pinion type p-brakes that attach to the d-shaft.



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'18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:54 PM   #987
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom View Post
Just curious. There are trans tailshaft and rear axle pinion type p-brakes that attach to the d-shaft.
I've had that thought, too. Hard to find an affordable pinion option. Who makes those you posted? What's the cost like? I can upgrade to the Eldo calipers for a couple hun.
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:04 PM   #988
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Ok, studs. The stockers are too short for the discs, the other replacements aren't much longer, so the third option is a F*rd part.

Dorman 610-298

Type : Serrated Stud
Thread : 1/2-20
Knurl Dia. : .547"
Length : 2"
Shoulder Length : 11/16"


I grabbed one of each from the LAPS for comparison:
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:10 PM   #989
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Length comparisons. I will have to slightly enlarge the axle holes to fit the .547 knurl of the longer studs, but I can live with that. Also may have to use long lug nuts or trim the speed-start tips...
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
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Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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Old 11-04-2012, 09:19 PM   #990
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Couldn't say...just did a few keyword searches.

Seems the 9" has the most options. I'm guessing captainfab could come up with something for our 12 bolts tho!
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'68 GMC short step - NIB '09 LY6 6.0L crate motor w/mods, NIB '12 crate 4L85e w/billet 3k stall Circle D, 3.73 posi 12 bolt, DynaTech f-swap headers, 3/4 drop, handling mods, etc. - my toy
'72 Chevy LWB C-10 Highlander - 350/350 ps/pb/tilt/ac - not original but close
'06 Chevy TrailBlazerSS - LS2/4L70e - little black hot rod SUV - my DD
'18 Kia Sorento - wife's econo-driver
'95 Chevy S10 - reg cab shortbed, LS, 4.3, auto...

my '68's powertrain and chassis build -links broken
A surprise phase - carb to efi -links broken
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:00 PM   #991
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

nice job !!! i personally like the calipers on that gray on your truck !!!!!
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:10 PM   #992
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Nice build man. I may be late but never to late to subscribe.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:32 PM   #993
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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nice job !!! i personally like the calipers on that gray on your truck !!!!!
Thanks! I'm pretty happy with the grey, but part of me wants to show off a little. Red calipers only look good clean, though, and this thing gets driven...
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Nice build man. I may be late but never to late to subscribe.
Thanks! Welcome aboard
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:19 PM   #994
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Okey-doke. Finally wrapped up the brake install. Got the '70 Corvette master cylinder and combo valve mounted. The new studs also worked out perfectly for the rear; I didn't even have to drill, they pressed right in and give 13-14 turns of the lugnut before they're snug.

Boring pic sorry, but after my wife helping bleed the lines and bedding-in the rear pads, this beast STOPS! Calling this part of the project done Next up, lower control arms and steering linkage...
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:30 PM   #995
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

where's the pix of the master and valve ?
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:48 PM   #996
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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where's the pix of the master and valve ?
Sorry I missed your comment--been doing the family thing and spending time chasing down a possible new project--I need a 67-72 that I can haul the family in

Shot some pics just for you So, after installing my expensive, custom 1" bore master cylinder and having basically no pedal feel and loooooong travel, combined with poor stopping, I swapped to a '70 Corvette power brakes 1.125" deep bore style I picked up at the LAPS. Painted 'er up with the same Eastwood grey I used on the calipers; it bolted right up to the booster and my existing lines screwed right in. Works like a charm--pedal feel returned and it locks 'em up no problem. The combination valve is a CPP unit that I picked up on eBay for cheap. All the lines screwed right into it as well, thanks to GM standardization.

Crappy, night-time, cell-phone pics- sorry, it doesn't like to focus at night...
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:31 AM   #997
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

[QUOTE=gringoloco;5718943]Sorry I missed your comment--been doing the family thing and spending time chasing down a possible new project--I need a 67-72 that I can haul the family in

cool , so i take it we are looking for a sub then !!!!
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:07 AM   #998
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

I vote for a blazer for the family project...
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:23 AM   #999
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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cool , so i take it we are looking for a sub then !!!!
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I vote for a blazer for the family project...
Well, you're both right, kinda. I started out looking for a Sub, since its the logical family hauler choice. I like the look of them slammed, but while looking around some, I showed a few to my wife, who made a face like she smelled something awful. When I showed her a Blazer, it was "ooh, that's nice". She also told me she knows how much I miss my old Blazer (I tell her so every time I come across a picture of it, or see a nice one at a show), so we're leaning more towards a Blazer at this point. I'd like to find a nice 2wd, but will settle for the right 4wd that I can later convert

More to come
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:37 PM   #1000
classicchev
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Just cant get the Blazer out of the memory bank EY!!!!! I know of a couple that are decent.
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