Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[SCHRUMGMC]

Just literally went through ever page, Congratulations on your hard work on this truck. Wish I had the knowledge that you have to use on my truck

[tmoble]

cool dog, cool pic.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

Just literally went through ever page, Congratulations on your hard work on this truck. Wish I had the knowledge that you have to use on my truck

Thank you for taking the time to read it all.

I possess no special skills or knowledge. Don't tell yourself you can't, tell yourself, "I WILL!"

Make a list of things that need doing with the guiding principle being, "Make it stop, make it go, make it cool" in that order. Don't beat yourself up if you go off track and do something "cool" cause you want to, it's your truck.

Dive in and dig your way out. You will.

[NEWFISHER]

Did I miss the IFS install?
You are spending too much time at the lake! ( me too)

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hi Fish!
No, you didn't miss it. The two new granddaughters were born the end of June and mid July. Took a vacation out of state the first week of September. And of course work is hyper busy right now.

I don't really want to start without all the parts purchased in advance and a thorough plan. Did i mention I'm a Quality professional so I tend to be a bit�� anal about procedural icing everything!

The stainless Flaming River tilt column I bought from another board member got damaged by Fedex. Rather than fight them he was good enough to buy a new "collar" for it and I need to R&R the part. I'd really like to have it polished too (...while I'm in there)

I need the power steering pump, lines, custom brackets to hang the pump on my 283 with early fuelie heads without bolt holes.
I'm KNOW I'm gonna want to clean up the fire wall (another, "while I'm in there) but I MAY buy one of those firewall covers No Limit Engineering sells in order not to slow up the process of getting the IFS installed.
I also need to find and coordinate with one of the certified welders at work to come in after I've tacked the cross member in place.
Last, but maybe the largest hurdle is the floor of my garage has a severe crack and heave to it I need to break out and repair so I can get some semblance of a flat floor before trying to level the frame once the front clip is off. Other the all that? Nothing holding it up! Lol

[tmoble]

here you go, I've had one of these on my short water pump 327 since 1993 or so, never an issue with it. A very well-known and well-regarded part.

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S...Short_Pump.htm

scroll down to # 400L

see also http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/i...tions/400L.pdf

see also http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/i...s/pspsheet.pdf

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by tmoble

here you go, I've had one of these on my short water pump 327 since 1993 or so, never an issue with it. A very well-known and well-regarded part.

http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/S...Short_Pump.htm

scroll down to # 400L

see also http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/i...tions/400L.pdf

see also http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/i...s/pspsheet.pdf

Wow, that's excellent information. Thanks very much. But I do have a few questions:

I assume I'll have to get a two groove crank pulley in order to drive the PS pump and I want to have AC later. I guess they'd both run off the 2nd groove/belt?



Do you already have one and if so (ignorance showing here) what do I ask for/where to get?

I ASSUME (and you know about assuming) I could get one from Summit or Jegs, maybe even my local NAPA or Pep Boys, but are they all the same for all SBC's?

EDIT: Ok, that took all of 30 seconds to find by myself, lol:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsp-81320

Not sure why a three groove is necessary but why buy a two groove when you can have three for almost the same price. And of course being the chrome whore that I am, this one is SHINY!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so here's the cheapest of Summit's GM style power steering pumps:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-340104

Hose kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3160

I guess I'd better start saving my pennies.
Alan Grove bracket = $75
Summit Pump = $122
" Hose Kit = $122
" Three groove pulley = $70
Total = just under $400. Add shipping, taxes and miscellaneous bits and I'll be well over $500
Add the No Limit firewall cover I mentioned above for another...$125?

I'm certain there are cheaper sources for some of this stuff. I'll check my local auto parts store for rebuilt PS pumps and a general purpose hose kit. But I'll probably buy the Alan Grove bracket as I don't want a hassle. It want it to bolt on out of the box. Of course I can weld my firewall holes, body work and paint myself but it just adds time. I'll want to relocate the battery box to the frame, add $100? Make cables, add time AND $$...and I don't want this to drag on for months - I know me and I'm hell on wheel the first 80% of a job and a slacker on the last 20% Sad, but true.

[tmoble]

I'd try again on that:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...t/model/camaro

google search for GM P/S pump returns hundreds of hits, many in the $30-50 range. Or, if you can find a half decent used one send it to me, I'll build it for you for the price of a kit, about $30 IIRC.

[tmoble]

that equally rediculously priced hose kit is for a later style pump with remote reservoir. Not what you need.

The pump you mentioned is an early style with the nut-retained pulley, going to have an inverted flare or male flare pressure outlet.

Is this for a GM P/S steering box or an MII rack?

[Old Crow]

Dan, here's some pics of the front of a 327 we're doing in a '66 Impala. They might help you picture the 3 groove pulley setup(btw, you'll need a 2 groove pulley for the water pump also). Rear belt, w/pump and alt. 2nd belt, a/c and w/pump. Front belt, p/s pump only. Note no holes in heads and p/s pump bracket on front mount holes of block.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks guy. I didn't really look at the nose kit. If I were actually buying I'd have studied on it a bit and gotten the right thing. I hones,Ty didn't know those Ps pumps were home rebuildable. Thanks for the offer. If I come across one I think I should be able to rebuild it myself...thought for the $20 difference I'm not sure it's worth the effort.

Old Crow, thanks so much for the photos. I'll blow those up and study on them a bit. I'm sure I'll have questions later. Thanks again.

Maybe this won't run $500 plus like my quicky estimate.

[tmoble]

shouldn't be anywhere near there.

here's a couple pix of the stock original SWP setup. 3 shiv pulley on the crank, front belt is P/S only, middle belt is crank, W/P and A/C, inside is crank, W/P and Alt. It's a very simple and reliable setup. This is with the A6 compressor, but it looks like the Sanden is almost a bolt on.

Don't laugh at my dirty engine, I built in '85, been a daily driver since. Don't recall ever cleaning it. Must have over 200K on it.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the photos, they're truly a help.
Here's a dumb question for you. I've been assuming the crank pulley is a bolt on/bolt off affair. Is that correct or will I have to get a puller involved?

No laughter whatsoever on your engine. I wish mine had that many miles on it since ! got it going right.

[apache200]

Sorry to highjack your thread but i also have a old 327 with double hump heads without holes. I need all the pulleys and brackets for the ac and alt. Where could i find thoses? Thanks in advance

[vht]

I think Speedway has a lot of adapters for p/s in case your using a rack. Great build, I ck it out all the time.

[tmoble]

the bottom pulley is a factory 2 groove with a bolt in 3rd groove. WP pulley is a factory 2 groove. This stuff is not that hard to find. set up an auto search on ebay.

On a SBC there's three bolts that hold the pullies to the harmonic damper. If you crank is drilled for a center bolt it goes in last, it's 7/16" fine thread and torques to 80LB ft. The 3/8" bolts that hold the pullies to the damper are 3/8 fine thread. Often times on engines this old stuff has been changed, re-threaded, etc. just have to observe carefully as you pull it apart.

Actually, all you need is the bolt-on third groove for the crank and the 2 groove for the fan and W/P. Did I mention that a Sanden compressor bolts right on to the factory compressor bracket? I posted pics of that on here recently, I think. If you didn't see them I can post them up again. Pretty sweet setup IMO.

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks for the photos, they're truly a help.
Here's a dumb question for you. I've been assuming the crank pulley is a bolt on/bolt off affair. Is that correct or will I have to get a puller involved?

Originally Posted by apache200

Sorry to highjack your thread but i also have a old 327 with double hump heads without holes. I need all the pulleys and brackets for the ac and alt. Where could i find thoses? Thanks in advance

Hey Dan an apache. I've used Alan Grove brackets for years and like them. On Jimbo's 67 we drilled holes in bracket for looks. We purchased his pulley's from Springfield Street Rods #s9764 has 3 grove crank, 2 grove water pump and alt pulleys. #s8848 power steering pulley with 5/8" shaft with keyway. Here's the link for www.springfieldstreetrod.com/pulleys.htm. Yes Dan crank shaft pulley is a bolt on. I' also going to post a couple pics of Jimbo's brackets, etc. Any questions let me know...Jim

[oldman3]

Forgot to say that we used the 70-72 Chevy pickup style power steering pump...Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oldman3, Thank you also for pictures. You guys that step in to offer good info and pictures are such a help. Thanks guys.

I've gotta admit I've never really liked those brackets that make the parts stick up so high, but adding the holes really does improve the look substantially. And of course, chroming, powder coating etc would help. I suppose they're too thick for dimple dies to work on them. Too bad, cause that would really look great.

[tmoble]

Those brackets are likely for a street rod deal, like a 34 Ford or something that has a very narrow engine compartment at the front but plenty of room vertically. couple pages back I posted pics of how a factory bracket setup can work with a Sanden compressor.

[tmoble]

Those brackets are likely for a street rod deal, like a 34 Ford or something that has a very narrow engine compartment at the front but plenty of room vertically. couple pages back I posted pics of how a factory bracket setup works with a Sanden compressor. Those factory pieces aren't that hard to come by.

[tmoble]

Sorry, dupl.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so I wasn't going to got update this thread just to relate what I'm thinking but later I'll probably wish I'd had a record.

Short version is I'm getting impatient to do the ifs and I'm hyper busy at work. Late hours, etc. I think I've mentioned it before but I'm the construction Quality Manager for Metro out here for one of the new light rail lines we're building. I had occasion to talk to a guy from one of our test labs the other day and we got on the subject of hot rods. He had a hotrod fab business that he closed because he needed a more steady gig but still does occasional side jobs and I'm discussion the possibility of him doing this work for me.

It'll depend on my budget naturally.

The two extremes are I drive the truck to him & drive it home once done - I haven't gotten a quote on anything yet but that'll be the most costly.
The other end is take the truck to him stripped from the firewall forward and pick it up after the ifs, tilt column, brake booster and all lines are run. Then reassemble everything myself. Chances are it'll be something in between because there are SO many, "while-I'm-in-there's" that can/should be done like finishing the firewall, painting the forward part of the frame, etc.

Ok, so anyway this is just a thinking out loud post.

[Daze57]

dan
Either way you go it sounds like a good deal - if your friend had a fabrication shop and is familiar with these set ups - heck i say go for it - providing the price meets your budget .
Maybe you can help him out - that may defer some costs .....just sayin