Rat repair.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Any real need to sand beyond the original paint or the primer that was used before my truck and was repainted?

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Ok darned it all, i let my shoulder heal until i could hardly feel it anymore when moving it, so i decided to give it a go today, started sanding but i decided i needed to blast a couple places with my speed blaster so i got it out, then i needed to get my 5 gal bucket of sand off the shelf, so as careful as i could with both arms i picked up the bucket and started to make the turn to put it on my work table, and rippppp! ripped my left shoulder again! I have an MRI scheduled for tomorrow morning.

Anyway i was pissed enough to continue so I blasted a few places i couldn't sand and a couple places with surface rust, Then welded 3 holes that were drilled for the old running boards, called it a day cleaned up and sitting here with an ice pack on the shoulder again. Didn't take another picture but almost all the paint has been sanded off.

Sorry to hear about your shoulder. That's a real bummer.

It's up to you on how far to take the old paint off on your project. I prefer to sand it down to bare metal. That way I know exactly what is under my primer and paint.
It's more time consuming and uses more sandpaper but it's worth in my opinion.
I used that same cheapy HF paint gun to do a bunch of primer on mine. Watch the videos on yourtube. Those were a good help

[swamp rat]

I left the fender in the booth for about 2 days, checked it with the inferred thermometer today about 10:30, it was 65 on one end and 63 on the other, i rigged up a sheet of plastic and draped it over a couple stand alone heaters about 2-3 ft from the intake filters and fired them up, the temp on the fender went up to 75 on one end and 73 on the other in about 30 minutes, long as it doesn't go over 75 i have the heat situated.

Moisture on the other hand, had to back up and do a bit of re rigging today and cleaned out one of my water traps that is collecting a good amount of rust from my pipe manifold, I can see now how some good copper piping would be a benefit but hoping to get by for now, still have about 100' of air hose after the dual water traps, then added an in line air dryer, then another 50' of hose to the gun, tomorrow i need to drain the tank.

Still taking it easy as much as i can but every time i turn around i end up yanking my shoulder, Dr appt with a surgeon this coming Wednesday to discuss the MRI.

[swamp rat]

Jerry rigging at its finest, the pic is sideways, sorry. Oh yea it's cramped in there! Wonder about hanging the fender grill side up? May try it but not sure how well the 2x2's will support the weight of the fender.

[swamp rat]

So a little update, I have come to Hate Franciscan healthcare!

Origional injury was 4-20, i get a referal to see the orthopedic place on 4-25, i call and make an appt, they always first have you see a nurse practitioner, able to get in 4-27, she sends an order for an MRI, MRI appt on 5-3, on 5-4 the MRI has been reviewed by the actual Ortho Dr. the next day, they call and schedule an appt on 5-11, I get there and review the MRI with the DR. her says he wants to refer me to a better Ortho surgeon.... That appt is 5-23......

So this Dr that i did see is a good Dr but not a shoulder specialist, why did they refer me to him in the first place? Then why after he reviewed the MRI did he have me schedule an appt with him? why not just refer me on to the next DR?? Guess he needed to make his BMW payment or something.. ???

So this is how things go with Franciscan, i could have called and made my own appt with a specialist at a different place that i usually go for anything else, i regret i didn't do so, but i do hear the DR i am going to see is suppose to be really good with shoulders so hopefully things will work out.

Diagnosis: Severed Bicep tendon, torn but not severed rotator cup tendons, arthritis in the shoulder joint, bone spurs. I hate getting old LOL! Anyway i have been healing slowly, i did re injure the thing 4 times total since the original tear but i think i am over that hurdle now. I can move it every way except when my arm is straight out i cant raise it above my shoulder without pain, able to pick up some weight but i'm not going to try and find out how much....


If there is any paint guys out there i'm trying to figure something out. The paint supply place says i have 2 choices for a Single Stage paint in the 518 Med Green color code, altho they say its now called Meadow Green. One is a DCC that is a Urethane base, the other is Delstar that is an acrilic Enamel base, my main goal is to paint the inner kick panels, floor after repair, the door jambs and the inner part of the front fender at the top where you see the color. They said whatever i choose the rest of the truck will have to be painted with the same paint...

Which paint should i choose? does it matter? I am assuming the stock color is Single Stage.

Planning on doing some primer tomorrow, finally.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

If there is any paint guys out there i'm trying to figure something out. The paint supply place says i have 2 choices for a Single Stage paint in the 518 Med Green color code, altho they say its now called Meadow Green. One is a DCC that is a Urethane base, the other is Delstar that is an acrilic Enamel base, my main goal is to paint the inner kick panels, floor after repair, the door jambs and the inner part of the front fender at the top where you see the color. They said whatever i choose the rest of the truck will have to be painted with the same paint...

Which paint should i choose? does it matter? I am assuming the stock color is Single Stage.

Planning on doing some primer tomorrow, finally.

Sounds like you're getting on the right track with your shoulder problems. Hope you get back to 100% soon.

As for the paint, there are several options. Most modern cars are shot with a basecoat/clearcoat system. The base is typically a urethane that uses either water or a conventional reducer to thin it to the consistency needed for spraying. It is unable to resist weathering, so it must be topcoated with a catalyzed urethane clear. Thus the designation BC/CC. This is the most expensive approach as it requires the most materials.

For what is called a single stage paint, you can choose between acrylic urethane or acrylic enamel. Both can be sprayed without a catalyst, but the cure time is much longer and the finish much softer than with a catalyst. The urethane is typically a little tougher and longer lasting, but also more expensive. These finishes can be repaired and even buffed if they are catalyzed, but I don't recommend it. A properly applied single stage paint can have a very nice gloss without a lot of orange peel. An improperly applied single stage can wrinkle, run, attract dust nibs from 50 feet away and in general, look like crap... and then be nearly impossible to fix.

That said, there is no reason you couldn't shoot a single stage paint on the kick panels, floors and etc. It would save some money and labor. Depending on how you mask the door jambs, a catalyzed acrylic urethane won't react negatively where it butts up or slightly overlaps a BC/CC. But if you want to be 100% safe, do like the paint store says and stick with one system.

And we'll need pictures, of course!

[GSP7]

I used to use arylic enamal, ditzler, acme, dupont, nathan single stage years ago. I like single stage paint.

Do they even still make acrylic enamal anymore? Im in Calif right now and you cant get it here.

All ive seen is the single stage urathane.

[swamp rat]

MY garage smells like paint thinner....

Tried to think the whole process thru before i started, it is cramped in there and no matter how i set it up getting both ends is near impossible. Also I couldn't find my old safety glasses so had to use non prescription, not being able to see clearly didn't help me that much.

First pic, after painting i noted the gun tip seems to be spraying uneven? all the passageways were clear when i pre cleaned and inspected a few weeks back.. Pattern was a fat football shap.

I seemed to have a problem getting the paint to flow as much as i wanted, i was able to increase the flow a little but felt it needed more than i could adjust, I contemplated stopping and re reading the gun manual but opted to continue, hopefully that was not a mistake.

I tried hanging the part and put a swivel on it, it helped to be able to access the whole fender but it was a pain to have to keep a finger on it to keep it from spinning.

Will need to coat it again, think i'll probably have it horazontal and do one side at a time next.

[swamp rat]

Regrouped for round 2, paint flowed much better, abandoned the hanging approach for one side at a time, looks like I have a little dust issue or cold this possibly be paint splatter? Doing one side I miss judged on the amount of paint to mix so had to make another smaller batch to finish.

[swamp rat]

Another

[swamp rat]

One more, got to figure out how to keep this from happening. Will do a final coat on the inside tomorrow.

[69chevytrucker]

looks like you need to strain your paint looks a little lumpy or maybe water in your air line

[swamp rat]

Yea i donno, I did strain it and aside from my manifold feeding 2 water separator traps another 100' of hose i installed an inline desiccant air dryer then another 50' of hose, i suppose its possible my last 50' of hose may have a little moisture in it its been sitting in the garage about a year? I will confess i did go in and out of the side door a couple times and forgot to shut off the fan first...

[69chevytrucker]

i sprayed a lacquer once and it did the same thing it was too thick and too much paint not enough air and it didnt atomize right and ended up flinging blobs everwhere

[swamp rat]

This is PPG DP50lf grey primer and DP402lf catalyst. Sorry for the confusion..

But if the paint is too thick would i use paint thinner or laquer thinner to thin this stuff?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

This is PPG DP50lf grey primer and DP402lf catalyst. Sorry for the confusion..

But if the paint is too thick would i use paint thinner or laquer thinner to thin this stuff?

I agree the material looks a bit heavy for the orifice size you have on the gun. Easiest fix would be to reduce it with a DT reducer. Get a quart of DT870 (mid temp) or whatever is most compatible with the temperature range you'll be spraying at. I don't recommend mixing brands or using generic reducers. Stay within the product line for best results. Not to say I haven't crossed over in an emergency, but there's a good chance you'll only make a bad situation worse. Good luck!

[swamp rat]

Thanks Vic and , 69chevytrucker!

[First c10]

Rat, you are more brave then I.... I hate to paint and I don't have the patience... that is a bad combination when painting!!! rock on!

[swamp rat]

Well i always wanted to take an auto body course at a community collage, but this way instead of spending money on tuition i spend it on paint supply's LOL!

Honestly i just wanted to try my hand at it, i may fail but i'm getting great advice and learning as i go, my biggest obstacle right now is having to have the garage doors shut while painting because its not warm enough outside and i'm using heaters.. Fumes get a bit strong until i air the garage out a little, usually a bout 1-2 hours after i lay down the paint..

[swamp rat]

Today was color day, I did have some dust bunny issues and I even went in there with a damp rag and wipes the walls and floor down real quick, this is making me wonder if I'm suppose to wipe the part off with wax and grease remover between coats? I have stayed within the window for no sanding in between.

[DWilbur]

I have had the same issue with dust bunnies. the last time I did some painting I hung static cling dryer sheets and wet the floor down with water to control the dust. worked out good for me.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Well i always wanted to take an auto body course at a community collage, but this way instead of spending money on tuition i spend it on paint supply's LOL!

I did the Green River course many years ago and it was not what I was expecting. Was nice to have an instructor to answer questions when he wasn't playing solitaire. Basically it was open shop night. Use the shop, use the tools some guys used the paint booth.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Today was color day, I did have some dust bunny issues and I even went in there with a damp rag and wipes the walls and floor down real quick, this is making me wonder if I'm suppose to wipe the part off with wax and grease remover between coats? I have stayed within the window for no sanding in between.

Looking good at least on the teaser shot. Just cut in or did you paint all of it?
Can't wait to see more!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by NONHOG

I did the Green River course many years ago and it was not what I was expecting. Was nice to have an instructor to answer questions when he wasn't playing solitaire. Basically it was open shop night. Use the shop, use the tools some guys used the paint booth.



Looking good at least on the teaser shot. Just cut in or did you paint all of it?
Can't wait to see more!

What you see is what was painted, the rest is masked off. The plan is to shoot for a full body paint job down the road.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I have had the same issue with dust bunnies. the last time I did some painting I hung static cling dryer sheets and wet the floor down with water to control the dust. worked out good for me.

Interesting thought on the dryer sheets. May be worth a shot. Thanks!

[swamp rat]

Here's a couple of close ups of the same area, one with flash the other without, looking at it close up i'm starting to wonder if this is contaminant more than dust? what do you guys think?

So i guess i can color sand this with 1200, 1500 and 2000 and hit it with some swirl remover polish.

And this paint is quite a bit brighter than the stock interior paint, i should have used the tag they printed when i did a color scan on my glove box lid but i forgot it when i went to buy the paint, of course its too late to add or remove pigment now. I will continue to use it for the places i mentioned but may reconsider the door jambs. (being educated )

So i have read enough of these forums to now garner the opinion that dual stage paint may be easier to work with so will probably try that for any other painting than what i have planned with this stuff.

[69chevytrucker]

you know i think alot of guys spend all the money painting a old late 60s truck with all the new types of paint but no offence to those guys but these trucks are not meant to have flashy paint jobs yes paint the trucks but you know they to me look better if you have a paint job the is not flawless it should have some spec and oddness to it they are forty and fifty year old trucks.
i think you are doing a great job because you are doing it yourself not getting someone else to do your truck for you i am a die hard build your own truck kinda guy i myself have built my truck by myself no pro help at all and my truck may not be perfect but i did it no one else
GOOD FOR YOU FOR DOING IT ON YOUR OWN I THINK IT LOOKS GREAT .
HERE ARE SOME PICS OF MINE YOU CAN SEE IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE PERFECT TO STILL LOOK GREAT...