My Dusty 71 GMCe Electruck

[Gregski]

and what do we have here if not Mr. Dirty Harry himself

[Gregski]

nothing to see here, just erecting a powder room

these are going to be gray to add some contrast so that everything aint just black

[Gregski]

so here we go

Powder Coating Top Tip (PCTT) do a dry run, what I mean by this is hang up your parts to powder coat than take them down (whilst wearing gloves so you don't burn yourself) and carry them over to the oven while it's off and cold, and see if you can hang them up, actually hang them up, this is where you find out you forgot to remove the bottom tray to give your parts room to hang, this is where you find out your wire hooks are pointing the wrong way, this is where you find out you need to cut some slots out from the grate to make it easier to hang them parts, etc. etc.

[Gregski]

naturally the instructions contradict themsevles, the bags of powder say pre heat the oven to 450°F whilst the gun instructions say only 400°F

then you supposed to bake them for 20 minutes

the key I learned is you want your air compressor on the lowest possible PSI cupid feets per minute type of thing [total and complete opposite what I bought my turbo diesel two stroke V twin air compressor for, aka media blasting, but I managed somehow]

but what evs, so I won't lie to you I touched the parts with my big @ss bulky gloves here and there and wiped off the powder coat a tad while hanging them up in the oven, but the nice thing is you can recoat over the current coat, so I might touch them up some, (probably not)

and yes now that the truck is going to be electric we are gonna run triple lower control arms !!!

[OneOffStroker]

I powdercoat all the time, and I can say that unless you get it free, Eastwood is not your friend in the PC game. Does their stuff technically get powder on your parts? Sure. That's about the extent of it. I am biased though, since I stepped up from an Eastwood gun to other stuff, and have had the luck to use actual commercial-grade pro equipment.

For powder, if you are going to continue to get further into the game, I highly recommend Prismatic Powders. They have full tech sheets that give ALL the specs on the powder, as well as cure times.

Ah, cure times...that's where Eastwood craps the bed as well. Don't just "bake for 20 minutes" because you may not get a full cure, and I suspect that your lower shafts did not get a full cure. The PART has to get to 400 degrees, and then you should start your timer while holding it at that temp. Most polyester powders cure at 10-12 minutes once the part is at full temp. I doubt that those thick lower shafts got to a full 400 degrees in only 10 minutes in a household oven, meaning they probably didn't get the 10-12 minute PMT (Part Metal Temperature) cure that they need.

The link in my signature to my YouTube channel has a playlist called "Powder 101" where I show tips and tricks to successfully powdercoat several automotive projects like brake calipers, valve covers, wheels, and even building a cheap booth for spraying.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by OneOffStroker

I powdercoat all the time, and I can say that unless you get it free, Eastwood is not your friend in the PC game. Does their stuff technically get powder on your parts? Sure. That's about the extent of it. I am biased though, since I stepped up from an Eastwood gun to other stuff, and have had the luck to use actual commercial-grade pro equipment.

For powder, if you are going to continue to get further into the game, I highly recommend Prismatic Powders. They have full tech sheets that give ALL the specs on the powder, as well as cure times.

Ah, cure times...that's where Eastwood craps the bed as well. Don't just "bake for 20 minutes" because you may not get a full cure, and I suspect that your lower shafts did not get a full cure. The PART has to get to 400 degrees, and then you should start your timer while holding it at that temp. Most polyester powders cure at 10-12 minutes once the part is at full temp. I doubt that those thick lower shafts got to a full 400 degrees in only 10 minutes in a household oven, meaning they probably didn't get the 10-12 minute PMT (Part Metal Temperature) cure that they need.

The link in my signature to my YouTube channel has a playlist called "Powder 101" where I show tips and tricks to successfully powdercoat several automotive projects like brake calipers, valve covers, wheels, and even building a cheap booth for spraying.

thank you, much appreciate the detailed advice, I think of Eastwood only as a smidgeon above Harbor Freight, so yes this is a one and done setup

[oldgymnast]

I've followed most of your builds and find you hysterical. Keep up the good work. I agree with what OneOffStroker said (except the Eastwood will do just fine for a beginner). The part needs to get up to temp before you start the timer. If you watch a lot of the Powder 101 you will also see that you don't put a second coat on if you do a full cure on the first coat because the powder has nothing to cling to. My suggestion from when I used a household oven and still do for small parts is use needle nose pliers to put the parts in and out of the oven and ditch the gloves (Less chance of touching the part). Otherwise have fun and I'm sure you will read a lot and get better as you go. Thanks for your entertainment.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by oldgymnast

I've followed most of your builds and find you hysterical. Keep up the good work. I agree with what OneOffStroker said (except the Eastwood will do just fine for a beginner). The part needs to get up to temp before you start the timer. If you watch a lot of the Powder 101 you will also see that you don't put a second coat on if you do a full cure on the first coat because the powder has nothing to cling to. My suggestion from when I used a household oven and still do for small parts is use needle nose pliers to put the parts in and out of the oven and ditch the gloves (Less chance of touching the part). Otherwise have fun and I'm sure you will read a lot and get better as you go. Thanks for your entertainment.

thanks, yeah I should have mentioned it's 20 minutes from the time it gets back up to 400° F my bad

[Gregski]

so here's that busted up passenger side cab corner with sum pink mud on it

[Gregski]

Yes it's California
Yes it's June
Yes we are in a drought
... and here I am trying to clean up the garage in preparetion to paint the cab

Yes it rained today !!!

Fun Level: 0

[Gregski]

so picked up some more paints, and got the garage spick n span

[Gregski]

this is somewhere in the middle of the two hour process

[Gregski]

eight 15 oz cans later

[Gregski]

the floor and behind the seat will be coated with SEM rubberized undercoating next, that might give us some sound deadening

Note: the floor right now is just coated with overspray powder that ought to should wipe off

[Gregski]

then it was time to use this SEM rubberized coating on the floor and back wall

[Gregski]

so I should have been cleaning the fourth lower control arm, but instead I decided to clean, polish and desticker this chrome rear bumper, yes the one I decided I am not going to use and run a rollpan instead

folks, I wasn't going to hang up a dirty rear bumper covered in stickers in my garage for a couple years before I decide to finally sell it on Craigslist, I'm not an idiot!

[yuccales]

Your truck is really coming along.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by yuccales

Your truck is really coming along.

thank you, it was a massive amount of filthy dirty work, but it being my 3rd truck project I slowly learned it's worth it

[Gregski]

not sure I posted pics of me painting the doors in my make shift outdoorsie paint canopy

[Gregski]

so that ACE satin black paint is rebranded Rust-Oleum, I like it cause it has a wide spray nozzle and it's $7 bucks for a 15 oz can instead of 12 oz

here I am spraying the passenger fender

[pjmoreland]

Does the Ace/Rustoleum paint run more easily than Krylon for you? That has been my experience. Also, Krylon seems to dry faster. I'm not sure which one is more durable in the end. They both seem to be fragile for the first few weeks.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Does the Ace/Rustoleum paint run more easily than Krylon for you? That has been my experience. Also, Krylon seems to dry faster. I'm not sure which one is more durable in the end. They both seem to be fragile for the first few weeks.

Krylon changed their nozzle the new nozzle design is crap, this ACE/Rustoleum paint uses the same nozzle as the old Krylon did, it drives quick and it's pretty hard to get any runs

only time will tell about durability, but honestly this truck was such junk that even if I painted it with a roller and house paint it would be an improvement

[pjmoreland]

I think it will look good all blacked out. You're certainly helping to preserve the sheet metal by painting all of the nooks and crannies while it is disassembled.

[Gregski]

this Bondo body filler sucks

spreads horribly even after it is mixed well, tons of air pockets and grit devolps, also dries in 30 seconds way too fast and I tried adding less and less hardener

and why are all the instructions or warnings in Spanish ?

[Gregski]

so all the cool kids seem to be using a product called Rage by a company called Evercoat

but wait, there's:

Rage
Rage Gold
Rage Gold Xtreme
Rage Ultra
Rage Ultra XTRA

you can't make this sheet up!!!