S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

This is what this setup will net you with 24.5" tall tires, 2" drop spindles, and 2" drop blocks. ground clearance at the back of the front fenders is right at 5.5"

Most of my customers want a little more clearance (so they don't drag bumpers). I'll go into detail on that in a minute.

[skymangs]

Now, if you want your truck low, but not bumper bashing low, use the following dimensions (pdf doc) on your cab mounts. Core support mounts stay the same, since they are welded to the side and bolted to the frame.

The second pic is of this (version 2) setup on 25" tall tires, 2" drop spindles, and 2" blocks
this one is 6.75" off the ground, and still looks low enough for some serious attitude

Please bear in mind that there is some fudge room... These cabs were hand assembled. I have found as much as 5/8" of difference between floor to ceiling height on various cabs. Also take into account variables in S10 chassis components. An S10 with 200K will likely sit lower than one with 80K... springs do collapse over time.

[skymangs]

I agree with everyone's comments. I've just noticed that these are becoming very popular, I build trucks for middle class guys who would love to have an old truck, but can't afford mega dollar builds, IFS, etc. This is a cost effective way to get them low, and give them disk brakes, power steering, etc.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and has a right to voice it. I just thought that I could share my experience to make the process easier and more road worthy.

I respect all automotive artists, even when the styling doesn't appeal to me as well.

918733; I will go into fuel systems and re-purposing the S10 harness (even though I don't care for it) later, I'm trying to cover the basic swap info first.

[skymangs]

After the fenders and hood are aligned and core support bolted down, I remove the hood/fenders to cut down the inner fenders. I generally cut along the lowest full wind line on the inner fender. Removing the bottom 3 or so inches. and then hold them in position to mark for the A-frame clearance. I don't have any good pics, I'll try to get some on the current build.

[OrrieG]

Great post, will answer the question we get weekly about s-10 swaps. I agree with the comment to take in in order of assembly otherwise it will get difficult to follow.

[mikec4193]

Originally Posted by skymangs

After the fenders and hood are aligned and core support bolted down, I remove the hood/fenders to cut down the inner fenders. I generally cut along the lowest full wind line on the inner fender. Removing the bottom 3 or so inches. and then hold them in position to mark for the A-frame clearance. I don't have any good pics, I'll try to get some on the current build.

Hi Skymangs

Can you explain how you got the tires to stick out closer to the stock fender openings...I have seen a lot of these builds and the S10 track width seems to be a little narrow in stock form. Any insight on this would be awesome...I gotta say you got the look down perfect...(I am working thru a S10 on a Willys cab/body)...I would love to see your fixes...mine is all stock V6 5 speed...so it will be nice to see how you address these many issues involved in these swaps...

thanks for posting this thread...

MikeC

[Bone$]

Keep up the great work... and thanks
Im in the process of a s10 swap so looking forward to you updating this.Now looking back i might of kept the stock chassis

Im new to the classic car/truck game but one thing is for sure everybody has a right to their own opinion . I also know that guys/gals spend countless hrs blood and sweat on these trucks and cars regardless if its a full resto or a resto mod or a frankenstein project respect should be given.
I would never drive a 64 impala that had gold flake paint and 13" wheels and hydraulics but i will respect the car and guy for a vision and hard work.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Bone$

Keep up the great work... and thanks
Im in the process of a s10 swap so looking forward to you updating this.Now looking back i might of kept the stock chassis

Im new to the classic car/truck game but one thing is for sure everybody has a right to their own opinion . I also know that guys/gals spend countless hrs blood and sweat on these trucks and cars regardless if its a full resto or a resto mod or a frankenstein project respect should be given.
I would never drive a 64 impala that had gold flake paint and 13" wheels and hydraulics but i will respect the car and guy for a vision and hard work.

You are right on respect, IF we are talking directly about someones work. It would be seriously out of line for someone to post their work and someone say "That sucks, you do horrible work and should have poured gas on that truck burning it to the ground instead".

But in a general sense saying, "Frame swaps are WAY over done and it's just plain wrong" is not insulting anyone and if it is, they really need to loosen up.

I am building a chopped and sectioned truck, I am making serious body mods, a lot of people don't like this, and that's fine. I don't take it personal (even when someone HAS said directly to me I am ruining my truck) it's opinions that make the world go around.

If done right, most anything is a good mod, if done right. The frame "swap" thing has just gone to where newbe's think it MUST be done "you can't drive an old car on modern roads" (HUH? says the guy who drives a '59 Rambler every day).

Thus the general comment "Do your homework before you think it is the cat's meow" shouldn't insult anyone, if it does, wow, really, they need to get over it.

This thread, it is showing some EXCELLENT work and I personally will be watching just to see that excellent work and how this VERY SERIOUS mod can be done properly.

Brian

[skymangs]

Good, just remember to tack your brackets on first, then fit the cab. When you are happy with cab fitment, then seam them in.