S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by joedoh

the heater return line runs to the factory s10 rad, so its clear why you are wondering what to do when you dont use that piece. but dont fret, there is a plug on the water pump? maybe its the thermostat housing, I dont remember but you take out that plug, its a big allen wrench to take it out, and install a barbed fitting and there you go.

I had to do it on my 1991 s10 4.3, and I cant find the picture because of "photosuckit", but thats exactly what I did.

oh, are you wanting to convert? the plug is in the wp. just pull it and replace want a 1/2" nipple.

[roaburto]

Joedoh I appreciate the information. I'll take a good look at the water pump and thermostat housing.

Skymangs, I read a lot about the radiator in this thread and took your advice on an aftermarket radiator with appropriate dimensions. I can't imagine the carnage that would result from trying to get a stock S10 radiator into the AD truck.

Thanks for the help!

[skymangs]

you'd be surprised, some people will try anything to save a buck!

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by skymangs

you'd be surprised, some people will try anything to save a buck!

Hey skymangs, that's not fair. There may be a part cost savings by using the S10 radiator, but, there is a labor cost of modifying the front inner fenders and building the standoff to hold the radiator to make it fit. I personally don't see that as trying to save a buck. Everyone may not want to do that, and that is OK, but I for one think it's a great idea and will be using the S10 radiator when and if I can get started on my build. Clay

[joedoh]

haha I use the s10 radiator on every build, it doesnt have anything to do with saving a buck because most times I will buy a NEW S10 radiator that costs more than the speedway radiator. I do it because:

1. (this is the big one for me) the speedway radiator lower outlet is cocked towards the crank pulley, that combined with the height the speedway rad sits at means I would need an electric fan, the engine fan would cut the lower hose in half using the speedway rad. I think the reliability of an aftermarket electric fan system is suspect, using the clutch mechanical fans is more reliable to me.

2. the stock s10 rad has a trans cooler already set up to take the lines from the 4l60e. knowing the probability of a system failure goes UP the more you touch the system, I like being able to plug the trans cooler in with no added unions. the speedway rad has no trans cooler, so you will need an external trans cooler (wait till you see how people save a buck on trans coolers!) although on the last one I did splice in some extensions.

3. the overall width is wider than the AD core support BUT the core width is almost the same size as the opening.

4. it is a cross flow, so I can use the stock expansion system. (the speedway is a cross flow too)


the carnage is almost nothing of note, I trim out two pockets, one on each side for the end tanks, and bend up some sheetmetal to close the pockets back in, then put a piece on the bottom that has holes for the stock rad mount bushings. the stock S10 AC condenser also fits, and the hood shuts perfectly. I dont solid mount my front clip, I use outrigger mounts to the AD core support on stock S10 bushings, so I am in the same area welding anyway.

its not a cost savings thing, its a better solution for my 4.3 trucks. potato potatto, to each his own.


roaburto, I found the plug I took out of my 91 today, in the drawer of my toolbox.

[skymangs]

no offence meant gentlemen. I prefer to do mine differently. I think for the novice the universal is easier and IMHO looks cleaner,

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by skymangs

no offence meant gentlemen. I prefer to do mine differently. I think for the novice the universal is easier and IMHO looks cleaner,

none taken, lots of ways to do this and you are definitely a pioneer of putting these together.

[roaburto]

Originally Posted by joedoh

the heater return line runs to the factory s10 rad, so its clear why you are wondering what to do when you dont use that piece. but dont fret, there is a plug on the water pump? maybe its the thermostat housing, I dont remember but you take out that plug, its a big allen wrench to take it out, and install a barbed fitting and there you go.

I had to do it on my 1991 s10 4.3, and I cant find the picture because of "photosuckit", but thats exactly what I did.

I finally got a chance to work on the truck. That plug was on the top of the water pump just like you said. I can check that off my list.

Thanks so much.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by joedoh

none taken, lots of ways to do this and you are definitely a pioneer of putting these together.

you Sir, have definitely contributed more than your fair share to this thread!

[skymangs]

I am going to try to appeal to everyones generous side. Help us have a great 2020! We really need this equipment! Every donation helps regardless of size. You know I’m crazy about these trucks. Help me out.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...cp+share-sheet

[Black93GT]

Originally Posted by joedoh

haha I use the s10 radiator on every build, it doesnt have anything to do with saving a buck because most times I will buy a NEW S10 radiator that costs more than the speedway radiator. I do it because:

1. (this is the big one for me) the speedway radiator lower outlet is cocked towards the crank pulley.....

This was the exact thing I found when unboxing the speedway radiator. My issue was the belt for the passenger side alternator.

The quick fix was to cut off the outlet and reweld it to give just enough clearance.

[Wyattdog2]

Anyone use flowtech gm universal L.S. stainless headers with the S10 frame? Part # 42511575flt.

[joedoh]

with all the variations in how people mount the body (4-6" off the frame) and where they mount the engine (high, low, forward, back) you might just have to try them yourself and report how they fit.

[Black93GT]

They look like they’ll fit tight to the block so it should work.

Expect to work with how your motor sits in the engine bay.
I had to modify my mounts a few times adjusting the motor height and setback to have the right fan/distributor/header clearances. It’s a balancing act so don’t get frustrated when it doesn’t fit the first time.

[kehstr]

for those that have done the s10 swap, and did an LS also. Would a set of off the shelf s10 LS conversion mounts work?

[Father&son56project]

I’m confused about the S10 body bushings and am hoping that someone can help me out. I need to buy the bushings for the cab only, and was going to order the Dorman stock replacement bushings model 924-181. The description says these will fit “body positions 2 and 3” which I assume means the cab bushings ( front and rear), as the bushings for the radiator cradle are clearly different. My donor S10 is a 1996 regular cab long box. When I removed the old cab bushings, I saw that the front cab mount & bushing is different from the rear cab mount & bushing. Here is what I have on my truck.


This is the front cab mount and bushing. The cab mount has a fairly large steel insert tube that encases the bushing, and the bushing diameter is about 1 ¾ inch (which fits the 2 inch holes I cut in my custom mounts with a bit of wiggle room).




This is the rear cab mount and bushing. The mount simply has a round hole in it (no steel tube), and the bushing diameter is a fair bit smaller ( way too small for the 2 inch hole I cut in my custom mounts).





Perhaps I am missing something obvious (in which case I apologize in advance), but can anyone explain to me what’s going on?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by kehstr

for those that have done the s10 swap, and did an LS also. Would a set of off the shelf s10 LS conversion mounts work?

they should, if they are the adjustable type. I havent done an LS but I have done a few s10 swaps and with the 4.3 the engine needs to move back about 7 inches, the SBC needs to move back about 4 inches. I dont know where the LS engine side mounts are in respect to the block (or in respect to either the 4.3 or SBC) but I will bet that if the LS needs to move forward in an S10 engine bay it will need to move back in the AD bay, so getting some conversion mounts with some wiggle room in them is what you need to do.

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

Perhaps I am missing something obvious (in which case I apologize in advance), but can anyone explain to me what’s going on?

dont apologize, and dont worry about it being smaller diameter, as long as the outer diameter is bigger than the hole you cut it will not move around.

this is the same way people feel about lug nuts, the clamping force is what keeps a hub and wheel together, not (just) the lug seat.

so in this case, the sideways forces are resisted by the friction of the flat surfaces together, clamped with both the weight of the cab and the through bolt. I actually cut my holes oversize too and use that fudge room to move a cab around and get it perfect on the frame.

[skymangs]

In my experience all 4 should be the steel bushing. That’s what I’ve always used. Are you building a 50 and older or a 51 and later? Because the 51 and later requires core support bushings in the rear.

[Father&son56project]

Joedoh, thanks! Skymangs, my build is the '46 Fargo. I had always assumed that all 4 factory cab bushings would be the same as the websites for ordering new ones do not differentiate between front and rear cab mounts. They simply say "fits body positions 2 and 3". I was surprised when I finally examined the ones that came with my truck and realized they were different. I suppose I will just order 4 of the the Dorman 924-181 and hope for the best. Thanks!

[joedoh]

the upper steels will fit any of the mounts

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by kehstr

for those that have done the s10 swap, and did an LS also. Would a set of off the shelf s10 LS conversion mounts work?

I used off-the-shelf SBC 350 conversion mounts for my S10. Worked just fine. Theres a small amount of forward/backward movement and you'll need to get a new drive shaft anyway if you're doing an engine swap.

[skymangs]

For anyone who may be interested, Ole Sarge Customs is having it’s Grand Re-opening on May 16th, from 1-6pm. Free BBQ, check out our builds! here is the link to the Facebook event https://www.facebook.com/events/619592388589260/

And the book will be published and available for purchase in November!

[JSavoie]

Originally Posted by skymangs

SNIPPED

And the book will be published and available for purchase in November!

Please don't forget to tell us WHERE and how much for the book. I can't wait to get one!

[skymangs]

I don’t know yet how much, but it will be available on Amazon. As soon as I know you will. And thanks, I hope to help many enthusiasts with this book!

[skymangs]

I was asked to post this how to in this thread.

Frenched headlights
First you remove the headlights and buckets in preparation for the new buckets