A '54 named Busty

[Gregski]

then although I chased the threads in the holes, and wire wheeled the exhaust manifold bolts, and even used anti seize on them, one of the bolt heads broke off on me, darn it! and I wasn't even in the ultimate tightening phase yet - wth?

Note: this is very common so I didn't even have to make a deposit to the swear jar, I swear - ha ha

[Gregski]

... and that still wasn't the worst of it!

both Hooker down pipes were clocked wrong for the second gen Camaro subframe leaving no room for the O2 sensors

[Gregski]

10 minutes later... it was all over but the crying

(I gotta tell you, you aint Hot Roddin' if you aint choppin' brand new parts before they even go on the rig for the first time, am I right fellas?)

[Gregski]

then it was on to the other side (passenger)... re clocked this one as well

[Gregski]

and then it was on to the intermediate pipes, here is the driver side done!

Notice I decided to keep things difficult and make the entire 6' stretch out of nothing but 6" or shorter pieces, ha ha (had to use what I had on the account of the virus and all)

[Wide Open]

Originally Posted by Gregski

squirted some primer on 'em and called it a day

Dang that’s some high quality H2O!

[Gregski]

then it was on to the passenger side side...

I'm really happy with the way the exhaust turned out, job done!

[Gregski]

I also installed the shortened and balanced for $85 drive shaft!

[Gregski]

So here is our LS Swap - Progress Report Card - LSS-PRC

1. Mount the engine - Done!

2. Mount the transmission - Done!

3. Install heater core bypass - Done!

4. Plumb the power steering lines- Done!

5. Plumb the transmission fluid lines - Done!

6. Install the B&M shifter cable - Done!

7. Plumb the water pump - Done!

8. Install the shortened drive shaft - Done!

9. Install the exhaust manifolds and down pipes - Done!

10. Install the fuel pump and plumb the fuel system

11. Install the drive by wire throttle pedal

12. Install the engine wiring harness

13. Install the cold air intake

[Rusti]

Grate progress on the truck. 85 $ that ja really cheep. Here in Germany you pay 300 to 400 Euro for shortening and balaceing the driveshaft!
So long

[8man]

Man you're gonna be driving it real soon. Congrats.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Rusti

Grate progress on the truck. 85 $ that ja really cheep. Here in Germany you pay 300 to 400 Euro for shortening and balaceing the driveshaft!
So long

yeah, the trick is to keep your head down and not let them upsell you like last time, when they ask what it's for it's for a 350 small block with a TH350 that's it, cause if you start running your mouth and saying it's for an LS Swap and you want up to 500 horse at the rear wheels they will sell you a whole different brand new drive shaft, and fact is you won't be pulling that much power in your truck, at least not for a while

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Man you're gonna be driving it real soon. Congrats.

Thanks Robert, question is does this count as my "two builds" since I'm trying to mobolize this beast twice now - using two different power plants? ha ha

[8man]

1 1/2 at least!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

1 1/2 at least!

I'll take that!

[Gregski]

well time to do the fuel system, and unlike my 2001 LS Swap donor, this being a 2004 it does not have a return line, so I only needs to run one 3/8ths line from the 95 Blazer fuel tank to the fuel rail

nothing to it but to do it

[layinrocker65]

What regulator are you running?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Thanks Robert, question is does this count as my "two builds" since I'm trying to mobolize this beast twice now - using two different power plants? ha ha

extra builds for everyone! rebuild your brakes! thats a build! I am al harrington of al harringtons wacky waving arm inflatable builds and we buy builds direct to pass the savings on to yoooooooou


of course its two builds, most notably because you had the old motor in and hooked up!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

What regulator are you running?

talk to me Goose?

[layinrocker65]

Originally Posted by Gregski

talk to me Goose?

Curious if your doing a vette setup or a aftermarket one.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

Curious if your doing a vette setup or a aftermarket one.

do I even need one, did the 04 Silverado have one? I thought the PCM controls the pressure via the fuel pump, plus I am not using a high pressure fuel pump like 80 PSI or something?

[dsraven]

Fuel pressure reg is on the engine fuel rail, drivers side rear.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Fuel pressure reg is on the engine fuel rail, drivers side rear.

not starting in 2004 through 07

[joedoh]

there are two types of returnless systems, the early had the FPR at the fliter so it was only returnless at the engiine, there was a return at the rail. in 2005?ish the returnless moved the filter and FPR to the tank pump, and added a fuel pressure sensor there so the PCM could modify pressure based on load. if that means you need some type of regulator, I have no idea, I havent swapped one, only worked on the two different systems as stock.

[texxxan]

I'm certainly no one qualified to give advice here, but I believe you need the Corvette regulator ( 2 lines in and one line out) for this set up. Someone qualified please verify this because I will be doing this set up very soon.