Rat repair.

[swamp rat]

So a couple days of schooling by some board members i think i have a handle on my mistakes on my first attempt at painting, I'll try and get back at it soon.

Per post 1014, I do need to take my paint back and have them doctor the mix a little, they assured me that even tho i have used some out of the pint they can still modify it to match the glove box scan closer.

I have my Orthopedic appt Monday, looking forward to see what he says.

[swamp rat]

So do the inner fenderwells have this bracket attached???? looks like i'd be money ahead buying a set as the rust is thru the bracket...

I talked to the paint shop and they said they could doctor my color paint a little but it takes about 4 days, i'm still waiting for them to finish it.

The Dr does not want to rush into any surgery, gave me a cortisone shot and a follow up appt, I cant work overhead for crap right now and explained that to him too... :~/ i remain skeptical..

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

So do the inner fenderwells have this bracket attached???? looks like i'd be money ahead buying a set as the rust is thru the bracket..

I've repaired them in similar condition, but don't necessarily recommend it. In my case, I could drive to Classic or LMC and pick up the parts to save shipping. But in retrospect, a reproduction piece would have saved me a lot of grief. Of course, then the whole "fitment issues" come into play.

[swamp rat]

So my green paint has not been tint adjusted yet, they are swamped.. crap.. Been a week now.

Picked up a pair of inner fenders today locally plus a few other goodies, vendor suggested taking then to sandblast and powder coat someplace, i'm not sure i trust the place i took my rear fender to so don't know about that just yet, a little concerned about the blast media stressing the metal?

If i paint them I assume i could just take some red scotchbrite to them first rather than sand? then i assume semi gloss black would be close to stock color?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

So my green paint has not been tint adjusted yet, they are swamped.. crap.. Been a week now.

Picked up a pair of inner fenders today locally plus a few other goodies, vendor suggested taking then to sandblast and powder coat someplace, i'm not sure i trust the place i took my rear fender to so don't know about that just yet, a little concerned about the blast media stressing the metal?

If i paint them I assume i could just take some red scotchbrite to them first rather than sand? then i assume semi gloss black would be close to stock color?

I usually use maroon or grey Scotchbrite - but anything fine textured will work. As long as any rust has been removed and/or treated, a low gloss black will look correct. Powder coating IS tougher, though. I wouldn't worry too much about blast media stretching them. On a compound curved surface like inner fenders, they'd have to really work at it to deform them. You're more likely to have problems on flat or low crown panels.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I usually use maroon or grey Scotchbrite - but anything fine textured will work. As long as any rust has been removed and/or treated, a low gloss black will look correct. Powder coating IS tougher, though. I wouldn't worry too much about blast media stretching them. On a compound curved surface like inner fenders, they'd have to really work at it to deform them. You're more likely to have problems on flat or low crown panels.

Thanks Vic! Not sure of any other places that do body blasting so i'm thinking I'm gonna paint, i talked to the paint shop and i bought some black that's suppose to be real durable and gas resistant, cant recall the name off hand. But, I'll give Google a scan and see if there is any other places local that do powder coat and check them out out before i head into this venture.

I got the single stage back from the paint place today also, they added some yellow pigment to it and documented it on my mix lable for future reference. I sprayed a final coat on the inside of the fender, I'm sure its not perfect but it should be better than what i had before.

I also noted my air flow has diminished so i need a new exhaust filter and will consider installing that second fan.

[swamp rat]

My last coat is a little lighter, wouldn't mind a little lighter yet but close enough, probably should have waited until i changed the filters but too late. Not perfect but will do for what it is.

Unfortunately i missed a little rust in my inner kick panel and its spreading so i have to cut about a 1.25 X.75 section out and put another little piece in, good thing i waited to spread that bondo!

I need to get my butt in gear and start working on more than just one thing at a time.....

[7dee2]

Nice work Mike really impressed on what you've gotten to so far!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Nice work Mike really impressed on what you've gotten to so far!

Thanks, i need some motivation, life has been getting in the way a little.

Small update, I found another blast and powdercoat place that quoted me $45 each to blast prime coat and color coat my inner fenderwells, that was a no brain'er. took them there yesterday. I'll use the paint i bought for other parts eventually

I have mentioned i cut that area out of the inner kick panel, it ended up being a little bigger than previously mentioned, i have made a wand extension for a sprayer and have sprayed some GEM rust killer on the inside, will do it again before i weld the new piece in.

Still working 2 weekends on one weekend off, starting to burn out a bit..

EDIT: Question, can you color sand single stage paint?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

... Question, can you color sand single stage paint?

Maybe if it's been allowed to cure for about a year.

Some folks say if you use a catalyst (hardener) with it and either force dry it or allow it to cure for 3-4 weeks, you can buff a solid color (non metallic) single stage paint. I've tried it a few times and it's very hard to get the sanding scratches out of it. Very easy to screw up and it wants to die back (lose its gloss) fairly quickly. As always, YMMV.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Maybe if it's been allowed to cure for about a year.

Some folks say if you use a catalyst (hardener) with it and either force dry it or allow it to cure for 3-4 weeks, you can buff a solid color (non metallic) single stage paint. I've tried it a few times and it's very hard to get the sanding scratches out of it. Very easy to screw up and it wants to die back (lose its gloss) fairly quickly. As always, YMMV.

I was pretty sure that would be the answer... 😊

[swamp rat]

So another 3 days of rain, didn't feel like dragging the welder outside, then 3 more good enough days gives a couple hours each, took my time and got my patch welded in, no panel warpage, give this guy a beer!

Also, I sat down and re read the paint gun manual again, i know i had read it a couple times before but i think the following part just didn't register, the part about pulling the trigger and then screwing the needle in until it just bottoms, light bulb moment, i was not feeding enough paint thru the gun on the other try's, this time after i did a 100% sand with 400 grit to the outside the paint laid down much nicer, still had a few of the dust bunny's but every time i give it a go its another step better, being as this is a 2K its getting sealed and can be sanded again later..

My reward last Friday for....well, just because, smoked turkey legs, 11.5 hours in the traeger on smoke, nice smoke ring, turned out great!

Need some clarification, sorry if i already asked and forgot. Would this be the correct process on the cab.
1) prime with 2K, 2) bondo work, 3) seam seal, 4) second coat of 2K?
Or forgo the first prime coat?

On the seam sealer, i wish i had bought a brushable quart but will use this tube up first unless somebody objects, I know about taping both sides but don't recall the chemical that allows you to spread it with your finger, acetone? thinner?
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[swamp rat]

Or per my question above, should I hit all the bare metal with self etching primer first, then bondo, then seam sealer, then final K2 prime?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Or per my question above, should I hit all the bare metal with self etching primer first, then bondo, then seam sealer, then final K2 prime?

That's what most body shops do these days, although the seam sealer can be applied before or after 2K primer as desired. Some folks use epoxy primer in lieu of self etch, but you need to make sure the manufacturer is good with that approach. Epoxy has the advantage of completely sealing the metal away from the humidity in the air. Most other primers are somewhat porous and without a topcoat will eventually succumb to the elements and allow rust to form.

What you're trying to achieve is a multi-layer barrier that stands up to the environment. Back in the day, body men routinely ground down a damaged panel to bare metal, applied plastic filler and then primed and painted. As long as the underlying metal has no fractures that allow moisture to seep in from behind, this was a perfectly acceptable way to repair a panel. Over the years, the materials and the science have evolved and now most places apply an etching primer or epoxy over the bare metal before applying filler.

However, it's impossible to work the filler without removing the initial coat of primer and exposing the bare metal again. So if you want to add extra insurance against moisture if the surface won't be topcoated for quite a while, you can reapply the epoxy over the bare metal / bodywork and set it aside indefinitely. If you plan to paint in the near future, a quality 2K primer is all you need. It will adhere just fine to the bare spots and the surrounding self etch or epoxy as well as the filler. You'll end up reapplying the 2K as you block the surface down to the point it's ready for the basecoat and clear.

Hope this helps.

[7dee2]

Mike those turkey legs pretty tasty! Yum!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Mike those turkey legs pretty tasty! Yum!

One disappeared that day, the other 3 were de boned and put in small baggies and into the freezer, then i grab a baggie and take it to work and put it in my salad, mighty tasty.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

One disappeared that day, the other 3 were de boned and put in small baggies and into the freezer, then i grab a baggie and take it to work and put it in my salad, mighty tasty.

Nice, Mrs. 7dee2 (aka lucky ducky) got a new dual fuel grill with a fire box and we're smoking and grilling like crazy!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

That's what most body shops do these days, although the seam sealer can be applied before or after 2K primer as desired. Some folks use epoxy primer in lieu of self etch, but you need to make sure the manufacturer is good with that approach. Epoxy has the advantage of completely sealing the metal away from the humidity in the air. Most other primers are somewhat porous and without a topcoat will eventually succumb to the elements and allow rust to form.

What you're trying to achieve is a multi-layer barrier that stands up to the environment. Back in the day, body men routinely ground down a damaged panel to bare metal, applied plastic filler and then primed and painted. As long as the underlying metal has no fractures that allow moisture to seep in from behind, this was a perfectly acceptable way to repair a panel. Over the years, the materials and the science have evolved and now most places apply an etching primer or epoxy over the bare metal before applying filler.

However, it's impossible to work the filler without removing the initial coat of primer and exposing the bare metal again. So if you want to add extra insurance against moisture if the surface won't be topcoated for quite a while, you can reapply the epoxy over the bare metal / bodywork and set it aside indefinitely. If you plan to paint in the near future, a quality 2K primer is all you need. It will adhere just fine to the bare spots and the surrounding self etch or epoxy as well as the filler. You'll end up reapplying the 2K as you block the surface down to the point it's ready for the basecoat and clear.

Hope this helps.

Vic everytime you post it helps! LOL!

[swamp rat]

So i did the unconventional today, i had absolutely no way to be able to spray K2 primer on the bottom of my cab being as its on the frame, so after i prepped the tin i decided to mix some 2K up and apply with a brush, had to throw a tarp over the cab and drag a space heater out to get the tin up to 70 degrees before i started.

Now as i have said i learn as i go..... Never apply this stuff with a brush without long sleeves and gloves on and Mineral spirits for the residual arm, face and hands clean up! Paint thinner does indeed not feel so great on the skin when scrubbing with a rag. LOL! But i got 2 good coats on everything but the rear cab mount, i didn't have it prepped yet so it gets done later.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

So i did the unconventional today, i had absolutely no way to be able to spray K2 primer on the bottom of my cab being as its on the frame, so after i prepped the tin i decided to mix some 2K up and apply with a brush...

Believe it or not, back in the early 1900's Rolls Royce applied lacquer paint with a chamois. They would dip it in a bucket of color, lay it on the surface and pull it across to deposit the material. They would build up multiple coats, then block sand and buff. When the goal is to coat an area that will be unseen anyway, a brush can be an effective tool. The only advantage of a spray gun in those circumstances is getting the material into all the nooks and crannies.

[swamp rat]

Today I sanded all the red weld primer off the surface leaving some of the black primer, then i masked and covered everything with paper and tape, i used the aerosol can of 2K that i bought quite a while back, it had about 5 months left on the use by date, it has that activation button on the bottom of the can. it laid out real nice, i was surprised to see this stuff looked to be beige in color. Tomorrow i need to spread out a little filler in a few places and hopefully get it sanded.

[GASoline71]

Swampy! It took me a couple days to get through your thread... but great job on the build. I wish I had a 1972 K25 to match my C15.

Gary

[swamp rat]

The rocker didn't match the cab corner very well and left a mismatch area where they join together, I figured this was not something i wanted to try and cut open and pie in a piece of metal, today i went layed down about 15 thin layers of bondo in the rocker and cab corner to slowly build the mismatch up, blended out almost all the way to the front of the rocker, then shaped the radius, then a couple fills with glazing putty, so being convinced i had all the divots filled i covered all the sanded and filled areas with high build primer, of course i missed a few areas and will have to go back and touch up. plus i'm now wondering if its possible i may have built it up too high so it crowns out in the center, but i can check that tomorrow with a straight edge.

I still have yet to learn the secret of doing this fast, what i did today was about 9 plus hours of work, that also includes working on my drivers door getting all the spot welds done and the bottom of the door into 2K as well.

[swamp rat]

Not a lot today just a little more touch up work, i got a straight edge and there is a bit of some bowing across the length of the rocker, both at the upper edge and working downward on the outside, i'm going to wait and put the door back on before i make any decisions on if i sand some of the bondo off.

[First c10]

Hey Mike looking good. after watching your build I may have to try and paint something myself!!! (and I hate to paint!!!) Keep it up!!!