75 Dually build

[Dieselwrencher]

An intercooled one. Nice. Make sure you keep the intercooler and radiator. If the wiring on the truck is in good shape, those first gen guys will buy it. Wiring on those trucks is a soar subject for their owners.

[COS399]

Nice score. Sent you a PM.

[75Dually]

Today was a busy day in the shop. No one to bug Dad, so it was time to yank that big iron beast out. I have to say that pulling this Cummins out of this truck was one of the easiest I have ever done. Now it was easy because the trans was not in place... It is sitting in the bed when I picked up the truck... LOL I guess you gotta take them when you can!

So now it is in the shop waiting until I can get the engine stand mounted to it, and then the second stage of this story will begin. I am going to pull the pan and see what the shape of the bearings are in and then decide what to do at that point.

Stay tuned!

[3757chevy]

Pretty clean .

[Dieselwrencher]

You'll be glad you weren't pulling it out of a 2nd gen!

[75Dually]

There has been a bunch of stuff going on at the shop the past couple of weeks. I have been tearing apart the Cummins. I got it on the engine stand and took off the oil pan to check out the stock bearings. Actually they are in good shape. I also pulled a couple of the mains and they too were in good shape. Just pull the crank, get the crank polished, and get a new set of main and rod bearings.

This motor had 94K miles on it so everything we have seen thus far has been what you would expect with that few miles.

Thursday evening a good friend came by and helped me pull the head and the injectors. Again pretty clean for the age, and each of the cylinders still had some good hatch on them. So yeah I'll take that!

I now have to order a rebuild kit with gaskets, head gasket, rings, pistons, and the like... I have found some really good sets with all OEM Cummins parts. So I will get all that stuff ordered in a short while. That will give me time to have the injectors cleaned and tested, and get the rest of the parts in ship shape so they are ready to go back on. When I get some time this weekend I will take some pics, but all you would see right now is a disassembled Cummins, and that is some boring stuff right there...

Stay tuned!

[deejaaa1]

i also just finished reading your thread. took a few days but worth it. low’s not my taste but your style is top notch.
one thing bothers me: you don’t show the dash enough. only see it now and again in the background. that to me is the coolest feature. my 93’s so cracked and dry, with no aftermarket help, i’m gonna rebuild it with recycled aluminum (signs) i’ve collected.
i’ve got some vinyl and lettering for my tailgate coming and will try my hand at a little wrapping.
don’t forget the KDP mod before you drop it in.
keep up the good work. i’m subbed.

[75Dually]

Originally Posted by deejaaa1

i also just finished reading your thread. took a few days but worth it. low’s not my taste but your style is top notch.
one thing bothers me: you don’t show the dash enough. only see it now and again in the background. that to me is the coolest feature. my 93’s so cracked and dry, with no aftermarket help, i’m gonna rebuild it with recycled aluminum (signs) i’ve collected.
i’ve got some vinyl and lettering for my tailgate coming and will try my hand at a little wrapping.
don’t forget the KDP mod before you drop it in.
keep up the good work. i’m subbed.

Thanks so much for reading through the whole thing!

I like everything from from jacked up trucks to slammed down on the ground too, so yeah it's all good to me...

I should show some additional pics of the dash, what would you like to see? I know I never really covered that section of the build in great detail because I was like "Ok it's in and there are bigger dragons to slay!" and never returned to the subject.

If you are going to try the vinyl I really suggest Avery Dennison. I also suggest you try to do something small at first to see if you like it or not. It can be a technical material and can be frustrating if you are nor patient with it. I want to suggest you watch Justin Pate and his videos on YouTube. He is a master at this stuff and you can learn a TON from him.

The KDP is on my list to do. Thanks for the reminder!

[deejaaa1]

do you have pics of how it’s attached, contoured to fit firewall and the gauge area?
i’ve seen others graft dashes but none have caught my attention like yours.
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[Dieselwrencher]

When you get your rebuild kit, use the big bowl non intercooled type pistons. (286210) This will allow you to run more timing and different nozzles too. I wouldn't waste the time having your injectors cleaned and tested. I'd have new nozzles put on your bodies and start fresh. Long idle time kills those pintles in these and I'm betting that truck had plenty of idle time as it was a service truck.

[75Dually]

I want to start out this post by saying that the dash has not even close to being finished. I got it in and the new ends on, and then got the cluster in it and that has been it so far. It is one item on my to do list, and it will get finished to a much higher degree in the near future. Unfortunately there is nothing on this truck since coming home from LST that is even close to clean.

I did make one promise when I started this blog and that was to show the good, the bad, and the ugly. I'm not a pro at this just a passionate DYI builder. So with saying that let's get into where the dash sits today...

As you can see in the below shots what I did initially was take the dash out of the donor truck and simply fit it to it's new home. Now I did a ton of measurements first, but found that it would fit really nicely. The important part was making sure it would work with the existing steering wheel, and it did that with ease. It is lightly tacked to the existing structure on the top and better welds underneath where they cannot be seen. What I had to do was make some simple sheet metal ends that would blend the rather large gaps. Those ends are going to get redone. They interfere with the door panels and are angled out to far. Sometimes stuff just does not work...

I have yet to figure out what I want to do with the old center vents. I would like to run some AC vents out those holes, but have not found a vent I like, and those outside square body vents are going to have to go when I redo the ends at some point.

The center console is not finished either. We busted a hump to get it done enough to drive to LST, but we did not finish the 2 upper side panels. They are supposed to link together with a bridge piece that fits right under the dash. Hard to describe but you will understand it when we get it done. It just looks so unfinished right now...

The gauges are out of the donor burb. I mated them to the 61 original dash panel, and so far they have been serving me well. When I was doing this my budget was a bit short and this was an easy way to go. I might get a fancy set of gauges but that is a long way away...

So I hope this gives you a current idea where I am at with the dash and where we are headed in the long run. Still under construction would be the best way to describe it!

Stay tuned!

[Palf70Step]

Dash setup looks really good!

[Dieselwrencher]

I think the dash and console look great!

[75Dually]

We went to the wrench a part early today and got an electric dual fan setup for the truck, and also a kick down cable for the transmission. Now I call it a kick down cable, but it goes to the torque converter lock up arm on the transmission. So as you increase the throttle that cable pulls on the torque converter lock up arm. I am sure I'm not using the correct terminology, but either way I found a cable that is going to work for my needs. The cable by the way is the gear selector cable off a 2000 Dodge. I am going to take off all the jazz that was needed to make the gear selection work, and just make it work for my needs. It will look like factory when I get done with it.

In the evenings I am going to continue getting the engine placed in the truck, and get the motor mounts made. For some reason the list for this project just seems to be increasing, but that is true with all projects...

Stay tuned!

[deejaaa1]

thanks for the dash pics. finished or not, it looks great.
think i’ve gathered enough aluminum for mine. just need a gas bottle.
your steering wheel is the exact one i removed from the 93 yesterday. got a 2 spoke from a 90 S10 Blazer. repaired top grip section, painted center and stitched on a cover. grips are much fatter and better. cost a whole 13.00.
keep it up.
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[75Dually]

Originally Posted by deejaaa1

thanks for the dash pics. finished or not, it looks great.
think i’ve gathered enough aluminum for mine. just need a gas bottle.
your steering wheel is the exact one i removed from the 93 yesterday. got a 2 spoke from a 90 S10 Blazer. repaired top grip section, painted center and stitched on a cover. grips are much fatter and better. cost a whole 13.00.
keep it up.
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Glad I could help! Keep up the good work!!

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice parts scores. That lever is actually the throttle pressure cable for the valve body. It raises the line pressure with throttle demand. Without it you'll burn up the clutches in the trans. The torque converter is turned on and off by a solenoid on the valve body. Same with the overdrive unit. You can use toggle switches or a compushift mini to run the trans.

[75Dually]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice parts scores. That lever is actually the throttle pressure cable for the valve body. It raises the line pressure with throttle demand. Without it you'll burn up the clutches in the trans. The torque converter is turned on and off by a solenoid on the valve body. Same with the overdrive unit. You can use toggle switches or a compushift mini to run the trans.

Ryan,

As always you have some amazing knowledge! Question: would it not be easier to use an older ecu from that gen dodge? When you say the converter is turned on and off are you talking about the overdrive or something else? I still have the 1991 Dodge ECU from the donor truck I could use, that is if it talks to the trans or not.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 75Dually

Ryan,

As always you have some amazing knowledge! Question: would it not be easier to use an older ecu from that gen dodge? When you say the converter is turned on and off are you talking about the overdrive or something else? I still have the 1991 Dodge ECU from the donor truck I could use, that is if it talks to the trans or not.

No because the shift points won't be right and you won't have any good way to tune it. I have been involved with a few swaps that tried that and they got tired of it real quick. (1 was a 47re too) The TC clutch would be unlocking and locking or not unlocking at slow speeds, and the same with the OD. It can lead you to hate the vehicle in a hurry.

The 91 Dodge would ECU probably wouldn't work because that truck was a 5 speed truck wasn't it?

1st, 2nd, and 3rd, are all shifted hydraulically through the valve body but there are 2 solenoids on the valve body that operate LO and OD. One sends the fluid through the input shaft to lock and unlock the clutch in the torque converter. This is for lock up. The other sends fluid to the piston for the overdrive assembly on the back of the trans. These transmissions are basically a 727 that have been upgraded/updated over the years. That is one nice thing about them. Some parts interchange. There are many pieces you can upgrade to make these a really nice trans. You can go mild to wild with them.

https://www.hgmelectronics.com/compu...and-a618-47rh/

[75Dually]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

No because the shift points won't be right and you won't have any good way to tune it. I have been involved with a few swaps that tried that and they got tired of it real quick. (1 was a 47re too) The TC clutch would be unlocking and locking or not unlocking at slow speeds, and the same with the OD. It can lead you to hate the vehicle in a hurry.

The 91 Dodge would ECU probably wouldn't work because that truck was a 5 speed truck wasn't it?

1st, 2nd, and 3rd, are all shifted hydraulically through the valve body but there are 2 solenoids on the valve body that operate LO and OD. One sends the fluid through the input shaft to lock and unlock the clutch in the torque converter. This is for lock up. The other sends fluid to the piston for the overdrive assembly on the back of the trans. These transmissions are basically a 727 that have been upgraded/updated over the years. That is one nice thing about them. Some parts interchange. There are many pieces you can upgrade to make these a really nice trans. You can go mild to wild with them.

https://www.hgmelectronics.com/compu...and-a618-47rh/

I wounder if that compushift will talk to the 46RE, it says 46RH on their website.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 75Dually

I wounder if that compushift will talk to the 46RE, it says 46RH on their website.

I doubt it. The RE uses a governor sensor in the valve body and the valve body connector has more wires. You could call them and see if they would make or modify a harness for you. Your trans is a 47rh if it is from a 94 or 95 Dodge diesel/V10 with 3 pin valve body connector. The 46's were only in gas applications. The 46rh's were behind the 360 gas engines for what ever reason and the 46re's went behind 318s and V6s.

[75Dually]

So I went out and took pics of the trans and the serial numbers on it. I also included a pic of the top to show the connectors. Can someone tell me what this transmission is? Thanks in advance!

[75Dually]

From what research I could dig up it is a 46RH. There really is not a ton of info out there on these transmissions and how to identify them. If it was a Chevy trans, I bet we could tell you the blood pressure of the guy who torqued the pans bolts at the factory... Just sayin'...

So at least I know what I am dealing with now, which makes the rest of the build a bit easier... Gotta love putting things together that never came that way from the factory!

[Dieselwrencher]

It's not a 46rh. All Rh transmissions will have a 3 pin valve body connector. That connector looks like it is only 2 pins. That means you have an A518 which is a 727 with an overdrive on the back and no lock up. What does the passenger side of the case look like? Are there any ribs on the middle of it? That transmission would have been found in 1991-1993 Dodge Cummins trucks. The 47RH's were only in 1994 and 1995 diesel and V10 trucks.

I just looked at your pics and your trans is definitely an A518. You can use that in your swap. You just won't have lock up. You will need to use the engine plate from your donor truck. The 1994 up engine plates won't work on the a518s. The starter is also different from 1st gen and 2nd gens so keep your starter too.

[75Dually]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

It's not a 46rh. All Rh transmissions will have a 3 pin valve body connector. That connector looks like it is only 2 pins. That means you have an A518 which is a 727 with an overdrive on the back and no lock up. What does the passenger side of the case look like? Are there any ribs on the middle of it? That transmission would have been found in 1991-1993 Dodge Cummins trucks. The 47RH's were only in 1994 and 1995 diesel and V10 trucks.

I just looked at your pics and your trans is definitely an A518. You can use that in your swap. You just won't have lock up. You will need to use the engine plate from your donor truck. The 1994 up engine plates won't work on the a518s. The starter is also different from 1st gen and 2nd gens so keep your starter too.

Ryan,

You talk above about ribs? Where would these be on it? I have kept all the plates and starters from both engines. So that will work.

Chris