LFD's low buck truck build!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by jugernot

One Thousand Replies. I sould make it by the shop tomorrow.

Cool I will have the broom all warmed up and ready to go

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[graverobberATL]

I was glancing through the thread and saw where you said the wheel-wells are different on a short and long bed. Please point out the difference if you get a chance.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by graverobberATL

I was glancing through the thread and saw where you said the wheel-wells are different on a short and long bed. Please point out the difference if you get a chance.

Yes on the wheel opening's front bottom edge of a SWB truck it comes to a point and on a LWB it has more of a radius to it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well not alot of things have been going on with LowBuck because my comuter car is in the shop so I have been driving LowBuck daily. So far I have put over 4k miles on it since getting it back on the road but tonight I made progress by getting the in dash temp gauge working. I had a friend make an adapter that uses the stock 1/2npt sender but screws into the 3/8npt head location and it works great. Then the shop across the street owed me a few favors so he had time to charge up my vintage air syatem. He was wanting to get about 40* out of the vents but when it charged up it was right at 34* Now I just need the hot weather to get here so I can enjoy it.

As soon as the honda is out of the shop I will get the Line-X put in, drop it off at the alarm shop and tweak the sterio a bit.

So what is a good alarm system to get as it has been ten years since I have had one. Back then the Viper was one of the best but not I have no idea.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[68 short step]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

So what is a good alarm system to get as it has been ten years since I have had one. Back then the Viper was one of the best but not I have no idea.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

alarms are old school. my first grader knows more about wiring/computers then a pro-theif 10yrs ago.....if you wanna protect it, install GPS tracking.....then you can control the engine (since its fuel injected) via the internet or your cell phone....

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

alarms are old school. my first grader knows more about wiring/computers then a pro-theif 10yrs ago.....if you wanna protect it, install GPS tracking.....then you can control the engine (since its fuel injected) via the internet or your cell phone....

Any site that I can read up more about this on?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[jugernot]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Any site that I can read up more about this on?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Lo Jack is the only one that I know of that police departments endorse. SFPD uses thier systems for tracking the stolen cars that are equipmented with the lo jack system, It works really well, trust me.

http://lojack.com/low-jack.html

[abebummy26]

Ask and ye shall receive http://www.lojack.com/car/pages/car.aspx

[abebummy26]

double post oops!

[hotrodhomi]

how much is a lojack system?

[68 short step]

down side of lo-jack is YOU can not track it, its only trackable via the police.. ill pm ya later rokcrln

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

down side of lo-jack is YOU can not track it, its only trackable via the police.. ill pm ya later rokcrln

Yep feel free to send me more info or other ideas. I live in a great town and a real good area but I have to leave from time to time

I am starting to look at sterio equip and trying to decide were and what I want to run. I don't want to spend over 1k on the system and I already have the deck. My doors are already cut so I might make a lower fiber glass panel with a nice set of 6" w/seperate tweaters angled up tward the other pass then a 10 or 12 behind the seat. I don't want alot of base but I do want a full sound when doing 70 down the freeway.
Were are you all placing speakers to get the sound up at chest/head levels?

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[watahyahknow]

JL for the 10" sub , i had one in the car in a small box , you didn't heared it untill you switched it off then there was definetely sumtin missing

[Daniel U]

This is what I thought about doing. Cool thread! There's a LWB down the street from me that looks solid for 1,800. It would make a good dump/work truck until it could be restored to it's swb glory. The only problem is the wife wants a '73-75 Chevy 4X4(not that it's a real problem). I need a bigger garage before she'll let me get another project. Thank you for the detailed thread with good pics. Beautiful truck!

Some more work pics!



Kevin
LFD Inc.

[TravRMK]

Great job! I just read all 41 pages. My Dad and I will be starting on our 67 tomorrow morning. We have been taliking about doing one of these trucks for at least 15 years now. I finally found one last week, a long bed, also soon to be a shortie. This has been one of the best threads I have ever read.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by TravRMK

Great job! I just read all 41 pages. My Dad and I will be starting on our 67 tomorrow morning. We have been taliking about doing one of these trucks for at least 15 years now. I finally found one last week, a long bed, also soon to be a shortie. This has been one of the best threads I have ever read.

Welcome to the board! This thread is definitely inspirational and very informative. There are a lot of awesome people here, and its great to have members as capable as rockcrln here to help us out!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Daniel U

This is what I thought about doing. Cool thread! There's a LWB down the street from me that looks solid for 1,800. It would make a good dump/work truck until it could be restored to it's swb glory. The only problem is the wife wants a '73-75 Chevy 4X4(not that it's a real problem). I need a bigger garage before she'll let me get another project. Thank you for the detailed thread with good pics. Beautiful truck!

Some more work pics!



Kevin
LFD Inc.

Yes but tell your wife you will need a work truck to get all the material for building that garage and a LWB is the best way to go. Then build the truck stall about 2" to short for a LWB to fit so the only thing to do is convert it to a SWB

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Yes but tell your wife you will need a work truck to get all the material for building that garage and a LWB is the best way to go. Then build the truck stall about 2" to short for a LWB to fit so the only thing to do is convert it to a SWB

Kevin
LFD Inc.

GOOD IDEA!

[texanidiot25]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Yes but tell your wife you will need a work truck to get all the material for building that garage and a LWB is the best way to go. Then build the truck stall about 2" to short for a LWB to fit so the only thing to do is convert it to a SWB

Kevin
LFD Inc.

So that's what you told your wife?

[paisaloco67]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Yes on the wheel opening's front bottom edge of a SWB truck it comes to a point and on a LWB it has more of a radius to it.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

sorry to prove u wrong...... but 67-68 lwb trucks have the same front bottom edge as 67-72 swb trucks....

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by paisaloco67

sorry to prove u wrong...... but 67-68 lwb trucks have the same front bottom edge as 67-72 swb trucks....

Sorry you felt you had to try and prove me wrong but I am the first to admit I don't know it all. As for the question that was asked about this he refered to my build and that is a 70 LWB bed that is different and I never said all 67-72's
Plus just telling me you proved me wrong does not prove anything! Please show us some examples so we all can learn the differance's.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well not much progress on Low Buck in the last month or two. I did just finish my Napa Volt meter upgrade and I will post a pick later on today. I have been having Alt problems for the last several weeks as in burned up 3 alts two were new remans. I think it was just a fluke because I checked all my wiring and it seems fine. I am getting #3 of the remans today and will see how it does. They are 140amp alts for the 92 vett motor but my luck just has not been that good I guess.
I did just notice that the view count on this thread is over 100,000 WOW I wonder if I get a door prize now. I did not even know our counting window would suport that much!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[clay68c10]

Do you have a local electric guy available to go thru your alternator? I've had pretty bad luck with re-man parts house stuff like that.
Dude, everyone pops in to look at this thread on a regular basis!

[Rokcrln]

No we just kepted putting them on the tester to see if they were good before I put them on. My motor came with a 124amp alt and when it went out last month I steped up to the 140amp option for that yr motor and after 2 being no good after being installed for less then 1 day we decided to go back to the 124amp alt thinking that maybe they have a bad batch of the 140's. I changed it out today and got the volt gauge installed in the dash behind the stock bezel (thanks Gringoloco for the thread http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=251017 ) and went for a drive. I drove around for about 2hrs with the duel engine fans running and the A/C blasting and it never ran so good or at least not in the last month or so or it could just be I have not driven anything but my work honda civic since this started.
The gauge swap went well, I used a $14 volt meter gauge from Napa auto parts and Gringo's thread to put a new gauge behind the factory gauge face. It went well and since I did not do anything different than his build thread I figured I would let you read his for info. Now the only gauge that is not working is my Vacume gauge that really is an Air psi gauge from a c60 or somthing but the new dash plastics only come with "Vacume" as the fouth option for the small gauges. I did hook up the tubing adapter and tested the gauge and it works great. I will hook this gauge up to my rear air bags that I use when towing but so far I have been lazy and have not installed the switch that will activate the bags from inside the cab. I have the switch and it is a simple three way rocker switch that will inflate and deflate the bags with out an electric valve. It is not the best way to go but it is very LOW BUCK and since it is not for suspnesion I figured why not.

I also still need to get the bed line-X'd but I have been spending my toy money on my sons truck. It is a 51 Ford F1 that is getting a 95 T-bird IRS rear set up with disk and bags . The front is getting a TCI MII with PS, Disk, tubular A arms, sway bar and bags as well. Then I picked up a 2005 5.3L Vortec with a 4l60E with only 22k miles on it. I am keeping the body stock with 50 plus yrs of Patina wear to it with some steel rims, trim rings and caps sitting on the running boards. I have all the parts but I blew out my back a few weeks ago so I am a few customer builds behind in the shop. I am starting to feel much better and hope to be back to work in another week or so than once the curent customer build is done I will roll the F1 in and get started on it. I will post a link to that build thread since it will be on a Ford site Take care.

here is what I am starting with.


And this is what we will end up with. I think my son will have the coolest truck in his Daycare


Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Hart_Rod]

Rok,

I had a similar problem until I installed a resistor to simulate the idiot lite in the OEM car. Here's a link that discusses it:

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cs-130.shtml