Rat repair.

[69chevytrucker]

looks like you need to strain your paint looks a little lumpy or maybe water in your air line

[swamp rat]

Yea i donno, I did strain it and aside from my manifold feeding 2 water separator traps another 100' of hose i installed an inline desiccant air dryer then another 50' of hose, i suppose its possible my last 50' of hose may have a little moisture in it its been sitting in the garage about a year? I will confess i did go in and out of the side door a couple times and forgot to shut off the fan first...

[69chevytrucker]

i sprayed a lacquer once and it did the same thing it was too thick and too much paint not enough air and it didnt atomize right and ended up flinging blobs everwhere

[swamp rat]

This is PPG DP50lf grey primer and DP402lf catalyst. Sorry for the confusion..

But if the paint is too thick would i use paint thinner or laquer thinner to thin this stuff?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

This is PPG DP50lf grey primer and DP402lf catalyst. Sorry for the confusion..

But if the paint is too thick would i use paint thinner or laquer thinner to thin this stuff?

I agree the material looks a bit heavy for the orifice size you have on the gun. Easiest fix would be to reduce it with a DT reducer. Get a quart of DT870 (mid temp) or whatever is most compatible with the temperature range you'll be spraying at. I don't recommend mixing brands or using generic reducers. Stay within the product line for best results. Not to say I haven't crossed over in an emergency, but there's a good chance you'll only make a bad situation worse. Good luck!

[swamp rat]

Thanks Vic and , 69chevytrucker!

[First c10]

Rat, you are more brave then I.... I hate to paint and I don't have the patience... that is a bad combination when painting!!! rock on!

[swamp rat]

Well i always wanted to take an auto body course at a community collage, but this way instead of spending money on tuition i spend it on paint supply's LOL!

Honestly i just wanted to try my hand at it, i may fail but i'm getting great advice and learning as i go, my biggest obstacle right now is having to have the garage doors shut while painting because its not warm enough outside and i'm using heaters.. Fumes get a bit strong until i air the garage out a little, usually a bout 1-2 hours after i lay down the paint..

[swamp rat]

Today was color day, I did have some dust bunny issues and I even went in there with a damp rag and wipes the walls and floor down real quick, this is making me wonder if I'm suppose to wipe the part off with wax and grease remover between coats? I have stayed within the window for no sanding in between.

[DWilbur]

I have had the same issue with dust bunnies. the last time I did some painting I hung static cling dryer sheets and wet the floor down with water to control the dust. worked out good for me.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Well i always wanted to take an auto body course at a community collage, but this way instead of spending money on tuition i spend it on paint supply's LOL!

I did the Green River course many years ago and it was not what I was expecting. Was nice to have an instructor to answer questions when he wasn't playing solitaire. Basically it was open shop night. Use the shop, use the tools some guys used the paint booth.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Today was color day, I did have some dust bunny issues and I even went in there with a damp rag and wipes the walls and floor down real quick, this is making me wonder if I'm suppose to wipe the part off with wax and grease remover between coats? I have stayed within the window for no sanding in between.

Looking good at least on the teaser shot. Just cut in or did you paint all of it?
Can't wait to see more!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I have had the same issue with dust bunnies. the last time I did some painting I hung static cling dryer sheets and wet the floor down with water to control the dust. worked out good for me.

Interesting thought on the dryer sheets. May be worth a shot. Thanks!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by NONHOG

I did the Green River course many years ago and it was not what I was expecting. Was nice to have an instructor to answer questions when he wasn't playing solitaire. Basically it was open shop night. Use the shop, use the tools some guys used the paint booth.



Looking good at least on the teaser shot. Just cut in or did you paint all of it?
Can't wait to see more!

What you see is what was painted, the rest is masked off. The plan is to shoot for a full body paint job down the road.

[swamp rat]

Here's a couple of close ups of the same area, one with flash the other without, looking at it close up i'm starting to wonder if this is contaminant more than dust? what do you guys think?

So i guess i can color sand this with 1200, 1500 and 2000 and hit it with some swirl remover polish.

And this paint is quite a bit brighter than the stock interior paint, i should have used the tag they printed when i did a color scan on my glove box lid but i forgot it when i went to buy the paint, of course its too late to add or remove pigment now. I will continue to use it for the places i mentioned but may reconsider the door jambs. (being educated )

So i have read enough of these forums to now garner the opinion that dual stage paint may be easier to work with so will probably try that for any other painting than what i have planned with this stuff.

[69chevytrucker]

you know i think alot of guys spend all the money painting a old late 60s truck with all the new types of paint but no offence to those guys but these trucks are not meant to have flashy paint jobs yes paint the trucks but you know they to me look better if you have a paint job the is not flawless it should have some spec and oddness to it they are forty and fifty year old trucks.
i think you are doing a great job because you are doing it yourself not getting someone else to do your truck for you i am a die hard build your own truck kinda guy i myself have built my truck by myself no pro help at all and my truck may not be perfect but i did it no one else
GOOD FOR YOU FOR DOING IT ON YOUR OWN I THINK IT LOOKS GREAT .
HERE ARE SOME PICS OF MINE YOU CAN SEE IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE PERFECT TO STILL LOOK GREAT...

[swamp rat]

So a couple days of schooling by some board members i think i have a handle on my mistakes on my first attempt at painting, I'll try and get back at it soon.

Per post 1014, I do need to take my paint back and have them doctor the mix a little, they assured me that even tho i have used some out of the pint they can still modify it to match the glove box scan closer.

I have my Orthopedic appt Monday, looking forward to see what he says.

[swamp rat]

So do the inner fenderwells have this bracket attached???? looks like i'd be money ahead buying a set as the rust is thru the bracket...

I talked to the paint shop and they said they could doctor my color paint a little but it takes about 4 days, i'm still waiting for them to finish it.

The Dr does not want to rush into any surgery, gave me a cortisone shot and a follow up appt, I cant work overhead for crap right now and explained that to him too... :~/ i remain skeptical..

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

So do the inner fenderwells have this bracket attached???? looks like i'd be money ahead buying a set as the rust is thru the bracket..

I've repaired them in similar condition, but don't necessarily recommend it. In my case, I could drive to Classic or LMC and pick up the parts to save shipping. But in retrospect, a reproduction piece would have saved me a lot of grief. Of course, then the whole "fitment issues" come into play.

[swamp rat]

So my green paint has not been tint adjusted yet, they are swamped.. crap.. Been a week now.

Picked up a pair of inner fenders today locally plus a few other goodies, vendor suggested taking then to sandblast and powder coat someplace, i'm not sure i trust the place i took my rear fender to so don't know about that just yet, a little concerned about the blast media stressing the metal?

If i paint them I assume i could just take some red scotchbrite to them first rather than sand? then i assume semi gloss black would be close to stock color?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

So my green paint has not been tint adjusted yet, they are swamped.. crap.. Been a week now.

Picked up a pair of inner fenders today locally plus a few other goodies, vendor suggested taking then to sandblast and powder coat someplace, i'm not sure i trust the place i took my rear fender to so don't know about that just yet, a little concerned about the blast media stressing the metal?

If i paint them I assume i could just take some red scotchbrite to them first rather than sand? then i assume semi gloss black would be close to stock color?

I usually use maroon or grey Scotchbrite - but anything fine textured will work. As long as any rust has been removed and/or treated, a low gloss black will look correct. Powder coating IS tougher, though. I wouldn't worry too much about blast media stretching them. On a compound curved surface like inner fenders, they'd have to really work at it to deform them. You're more likely to have problems on flat or low crown panels.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I usually use maroon or grey Scotchbrite - but anything fine textured will work. As long as any rust has been removed and/or treated, a low gloss black will look correct. Powder coating IS tougher, though. I wouldn't worry too much about blast media stretching them. On a compound curved surface like inner fenders, they'd have to really work at it to deform them. You're more likely to have problems on flat or low crown panels.

Thanks Vic! Not sure of any other places that do body blasting so i'm thinking I'm gonna paint, i talked to the paint shop and i bought some black that's suppose to be real durable and gas resistant, cant recall the name off hand. But, I'll give Google a scan and see if there is any other places local that do powder coat and check them out out before i head into this venture.

I got the single stage back from the paint place today also, they added some yellow pigment to it and documented it on my mix lable for future reference. I sprayed a final coat on the inside of the fender, I'm sure its not perfect but it should be better than what i had before.

I also noted my air flow has diminished so i need a new exhaust filter and will consider installing that second fan.

[swamp rat]

My last coat is a little lighter, wouldn't mind a little lighter yet but close enough, probably should have waited until i changed the filters but too late. Not perfect but will do for what it is.

Unfortunately i missed a little rust in my inner kick panel and its spreading so i have to cut about a 1.25 X.75 section out and put another little piece in, good thing i waited to spread that bondo!

I need to get my butt in gear and start working on more than just one thing at a time.....

[7dee2]

Nice work Mike really impressed on what you've gotten to so far!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Nice work Mike really impressed on what you've gotten to so far!

Thanks, i need some motivation, life has been getting in the way a little.

Small update, I found another blast and powdercoat place that quoted me $45 each to blast prime coat and color coat my inner fenderwells, that was a no brain'er. took them there yesterday. I'll use the paint i bought for other parts eventually

I have mentioned i cut that area out of the inner kick panel, it ended up being a little bigger than previously mentioned, i have made a wand extension for a sprayer and have sprayed some GEM rust killer on the inside, will do it again before i weld the new piece in.

Still working 2 weekends on one weekend off, starting to burn out a bit..

EDIT: Question, can you color sand single stage paint?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

... Question, can you color sand single stage paint?

Maybe if it's been allowed to cure for about a year.

Some folks say if you use a catalyst (hardener) with it and either force dry it or allow it to cure for 3-4 weeks, you can buff a solid color (non metallic) single stage paint. I've tried it a few times and it's very hard to get the sanding scratches out of it. Very easy to screw up and it wants to die back (lose its gloss) fairly quickly. As always, YMMV.