S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Here’s what the kit comes with, costs about $180 on eBay. Second pic is the kit assembled

[skymangs]

Then the fender holes were trimmed out to fit the buckets.

[skymangs]

The buckets were then very carefully fit and aligned

[skymangs]

Some more pics

[skymangs]

Then they were welded around the outside and ground down

[skymangs]

Obviously my son needs a lesson in the art of body filler, but it will work out fine

[skymangs]

we first filled the weld with All Metal, and then skimmed it with Evercoat

[lgh1157]

Fantastic work !

[skymangs]

Thanks lgh1157

[skymangs]

The finished product

[skymangs]

More pics

[Father&son56project]

A quick (and hopefully easy) question regarding the S10 swap steering hookup. I am trying to connect the base of my S10 column to the steering box, and I have a nice, straight, interference free route between the two points, with the exception of one spot. My power steering pump low pressure fitting is directly in the path of the steering shaft:







I realize that I can route the shaft either under or above that fitting, but that would require another universal joint, along with a heim joint and support bracket to the frame. It would be neater (and far cheaper) to slightly move the power steering pump fitting. Has anyone modified that power steering pump steel tube to point in another direction, and if so, how did you do it? It seems to be permanently affixed where it enters the reservoir, and I know that if I just try to bend it I will end up with a kinked or cracked line. Any advice from the sages?

Stephan

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

I know that if I just try to bend it I will end up with a kinked or cracked line. Any advice from the sages?

Stephan

I have never kinked or cracked the return line moving it slightly out of the way, I cant say you wont either but that is mild steel tube and only needs a bit of tweaking. when I bend a line I usually find a rod of the same diameter to stick in the tube and that keeps kinking to a minimum.

[skymangs]

I hate to tell you this, but the simplest solution is to reposition your Motor to clear!

[Father&son56project]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I hate to tell you this, but the simplest solution is to reposition your Motor to clear!

Haha! Thank god I followed the S10 How To and set that drivetrain off to the passenger side or I would be doing something like that!!!!

Joedoh, thanks for the tip. I will give it a try, and if I botch it I have another pump in my parts Blazer to try it again!

The Fargo I am doing is quite different from the AD trucks, and this column and the brake assembly has been quite a chore. I do however believe I have sorted things out and will update my build once I see if it all works.

Stephan

[skymangs]

good luck buddy!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

Joedoh, thanks for the tip. I will give it a try, and if I botch it I have another pump in my parts Blazer to try it again!

you wont botch it. that hardline needs to come out all different angles on different engines, I bought a new reservoir once and in the box it tells you to gently reposition the hardline if needed. the reservoir the same part for a bunch of cars and trucks.

it takes longer to get psyched up to do something like this than it does to just do it.

[skymangs]

I have changed my running board bracket design to make it easier for the novice to accomplish. These work for my shorter mounts. For the taller design just make the 1.5” square tubs 3” longer and weld right to the bottom of the frame. This is for the 118” S10 chassis.

[skymangs]

Schematic didn’t post

[skymangs]

Now you’ll have to notch the brackets for the lip on the board. Holes are a 1/4” straight through, and then 1” holes on the bottom (for socket clearance). Hardware is 1/4x3/4 zinc carriage bolts washers and lock nuts.

[skymangs]

Now if you’re building a longbed on the 123” ext cab S10 and use the aforementioned brackets, your rear bracket will hang in space because the frame starts to curve up. You’ll need to substitute this for your rear bracket.

[skymangs]

This is a 1949 GMC longbed we are working on.

[Father&son56project]

In an earlier post, it was suggested (I believe by Skymangs) to use a mid 90’s Ford Explorer plate style transmission cooler for the S10 swap while using the Speedway universal 19x22 radiator (which has no trans cooler) for the 4.3 engine. I don’t have easy access to wrecking yards here, but I just noticed that Rockauto has very good prices on these things, and a large selection. I will likely order one of theirs, but I want to ensure that I get a big enough unit. Can anyone advise the approximate dimensions of the Explorer trans cooler? I will use this as a guide for ordering mine.

Thanks

Stephan

[skymangs]

The explorer cooler is about 7x10 IIR. Hope that helps!

[Father&son56project]

As always, a quick and accurate reply, Skymangs! Now that I have your undivided attention, is there an electric radiator fan controller kit that you routinely use? I am looking at either the Hayden 3653 (adjustable mechanical type with a capillary tube sensor that slips into the rad hose) or the Hayden 3647 (adjustable electronic type with a sensor that slips in between the rad fins).

Stephan