S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

As always, a quick and accurate reply, Skymangs! Now that I have your undivided attention, is there an electric radiator fan controller kit that you routinely use? I am looking at either the Hayden 3653 (adjustable mechanical type with a capillary tube sensor that slips into the rad hose) or the Hayden 3647 (adjustable electronic type with a sensor that slips in between the rad fins).

Stephan

I don’t like those adjustable ones (never really trusted them) I use a thermostatic switch that screws into a water jacket 195* on/180* off.
Available on eBay for around $8. Wire the ground wire of the fan to the switch.

[skymangs]

if you’re doing the ext cab chassis and longbed AD. The wb is 2.5” to long. Flipping the rear springs will shorten it up 1.25”,the other 1.25” needs to come out of the splashgaurds. The best place to cut is immediately behind the curve. Remove 1.25”.

[Father&son56project]

I have a wiring question for the S10 swap gurus. I am using a 1996 S10 4.3 automatic transmission with PCM 16244210 as my donour and I have retained everything in its original form. I will be using the original wiring harness as it's in perfect shape, and since everything was left alone it should be “plug and play”. The harness is however huge, and my build (1946 Fargo) is tight for space. The harness contains all kinds of stuff that I don’t need, so I would like to carefully thin it out, removing anything that I don’t need to have there. My concern is that I remove something that is actually used by the PCM to run the drivetrain. I don’t care if I remove something that just causes a warning light (like the wiring for the seatbelt warning light), but I do care if I do something that interferes with the proper operation of the drivetrain, which is 100% stock, including all emissions systems.

Here are the wiring sections I would like to remove.
-Radio & speakers
-ABS brake module (the wires going between this and the PCM are huge!)
-Airbag, airbag sensors and airbag module (which sits in passenger kick panel)
-Front wheel speed sensors
-Seatbelt warning light wires
-A/C pump wires
-Heater blend door actuator
-Cruise control wires (the S10 didn’t have cruise control but the wires are there)
-All excess light bulb wires and all trailer towing harness wires

If I can get rid of this stuff, my harness will be far simpler and easier to install. Any input regarding PCM issues with these deletions would be appreciated!

Stephan

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

I have a wiring question for the S10 swap gurus. I am using a 1996 S10 4.3 automatic transmission with PCM 16244210 as my donour and I have retained everything in its original form. I will be using the original wiring harness as it's in perfect shape, and since everything was left alone it should be “plug and play”. The harness is however huge, and my build (1946 Fargo) is tight for space. The harness contains all kinds of stuff that I don’t need, so I would like to carefully thin it out, removing anything that I don’t need to have there. My concern is that I remove something that is actually used by the PCM to run the drivetrain. I don’t care if I remove something that just causes a warning light (like the wiring for the seatbelt warning light), but I do care if I do something that interferes with the proper operation of the drivetrain, which is 100% stock, including all emissions systems.

Here are the wiring sections I would like to remove.
-Radio & speakers
-ABS brake module (the wires going between this and the PCM are huge!)
-Airbag, airbag sensors and airbag module (which sits in passenger kick panel)
-Front wheel speed sensors
-Seatbelt warning light wires
-A/C pump wires
-Heater blend door actuator
-Cruise control wires (the S10 didn’t have cruise control but the wires are there)
-All excess light bulb wires and all trailer towing harness wires

If I can get rid of this stuff, my harness will be far simpler and easier to install. Any input regarding PCM issues with these deletions would be appreciated!

Stephan

Nothing you have listed is required by the PCM, you’re good to remove all of it.

[Father&son56project]

Thanks Skymangs! I was testing the system a bit today, and so far everything appears OK. The more I look at that harness, the more stuff I find that can get removed. I will post the results when I'm all done.

Stephan

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

Thanks Skymangs! I was testing the system a bit today, and so far everything appears OK. The more I look at that harness, the more stuff I find that can get removed. I will post the results when I'm all done.

Stephan

cool. The only things the PCM reads are the basic engine sensors, anything else can be removed.

[joedoh]

do you need to remove the wiring? when I do a truck that has s10 power window and lock harnesses that run into the door, I just cut it at the harness branch and tape it up in the harness.

1996 is a one year only truck the ABS is in the PCM. I dont know if removing it or the wiring causes problems but I do know that its part of the PCM wiring.

[Father&son56project]

Joedoh, removing wires would be nice as space is an issue. Plus routing thin bundles of wire is far easier than routing those anaconda sized bundles that the S10 has under the dash! As for the ABS, its mostly an issue of under hood space due to the shape of the Fargo. I could retain ABS by relocating the module (possibly down under the cab as I am well off the frame). If I knew for certain that the PCM didn’t care, I would just delete the ABS to simplify matters.

Thanks!

Stephan

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by skymangs

if you’re doing the ext cab chassis and longbed AD. The wb is 2.5” to long. Flipping the rear springs will shorten it up 1.25”,the other 1.25” needs to come out of the splashgaurds. The best place to cut is immediately behind the curve. Remove 1.25”.

Longbed on an extended cab chassis:

[skymangs]

Yup, this is a longbed on an. ext cab chassis. You should be able to lose the ABS without affecting the ECM.

[Black93GT]

Originally Posted by skymangs

if you’re doing the ext cab chassis and longbed AD. The wb is 2.5” to long. Flipping the rear springs will shorten it up 1.25”,the other 1.25” needs to come out of the splashgaurds. The best place to cut is immediately behind the curve. Remove 1.25”.

Interesting. With the springs flipped, my bed and wheel wells lined up without any trimming required.

[Father&son56project]

Quick battery relocation question for S10 swaps: I am in the middle of my swap and it looks like I will need to relocate the battery towards the rear of the truck. I have the original S10 4.3 drivetrain and the original wiring harness and ECU. I would prefer to keep the wiring system identical to stock, but have read a number of posts suggesting the addition of either a breaker, a cut-off switch, or both when a battery is relocated. While both are easy enough to do, my concern is the interruption of power to the ECU. How are you guys handling battery relocation with the stock S10 drivetrain and wiring?

[joedoh]

are you sure you dont have room under the hood? remember that the hood is tall even on your non AD so you might be able to go up with it.


I dont recommend a quick acting device on a starter cable, which is the purpose of the big heavy cable off the battery. everything else that runs after starting could be powered by an 8ga or smaller.

a circuit breaker will open quickly on a short but will also open quickly with a high amp start, like cold weather. circuit breakers are also hard to find in the size that wont pop on starting. resetting it may get old.

for a slow acting device, I would probably use a wafer (ANL) style fuse. it is a one time use, but will not "pop" till it passes 200% its rated current for more than 10 seconds. they are expensive in the values you are talking about, and the holder will be expensive as well. voltage drops compound with connections and a wafer fuse and holder will add 4 connections to the starter circuit (ring term, bolt term, bolt term, ring term)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/cat...3//ANL%20Fuses

in reality I would just connect it. fusing with an anl is really only for unintended shorts to ground, like from an accident damaging the cable or a rub through from poor installation, and 10 seconds for the anl to open would likely still be long enough to free the wire from its insulation and damage other stuff anyway. plan your install and use a good crimp to join the cables!


source: am EE.

[Father&son56project]

Joedoh, my initial inclination was to simply wire that battery the exact same way it's done from the factory on the S10, but using heavier cable and being extra sure to mount the cables securely and safely with those rubber lined clips (and plenty of them!). The trouble with searching stuff on the internet is that you end up with a hodgepodge of conflicting opinions, and that’s what I found when I searched “battery relocation” (all kinds of posts demanding kill switches and breakers and stuff). I plan on retaining the exact same wiring system that GM used when they designed and built the S10 ( only with longer and heavier battery cables), and just wanted to make sure that I am not missing something with an obvious performance or safety issue. As for the need to relocate the battery, see my post from yesterday under “Project Fargolet”. There is a high-centre mount option under the hood, but maintenance access and the actual process of lifting it in & out could be tough. Maybe I’m overthinking this….I have a habit of doing that……...

Thanks for your input on this!

[joedoh]

I looked at your post, why not mount the ecu horizontally under a battery tray on the pass side?

[Father&son56project]

Joedoh, I am juggling my needs in that spot and trying to figure out the best balance with the least fancy fab work (while considering access for future maintenance and repairs). That spot on the passenger firewall is also the pass-through for the heater lines (which are pretty big and they are what actually hold that old Mopar heater in place), so if I put stuff there I will have to figure out a different system for the heater. I am trying to decide whether or not it’s easier to put the battery under the bed floor (and build a door in the steel bed that lifts up to allow easy battery maintenance or removal), as opposed to trying to shoehorn stuff under the hood. As always I welcome input from those that have actually conquered one of these swaps!

[joedoh]

i get it! its not work when you love doing it, I like the batt under the hood for access and the factory cables, but I am not everyone! under the bed floor will work, its just more work, and you do great work.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

Quick battery relocation question for S10 swaps: I am in the middle of my swap and it looks like I will need to relocate the battery towards the rear of the truck. I have the original S10 4.3 drivetrain and the original wiring harness and ECU. I would prefer to keep the wiring system identical to stock, but have read a number of posts suggesting the addition of either a breaker, a cut-off switch, or both when a battery is relocated. While both are easy enough to do, my concern is the interruption of power to the ECU. How are you guys handling battery relocation with the stock S10 drivetrain and wiring?

My S10 battery relocation under the bed with an access plate, no breaker.

[Father&son56project]

I will shortly be getting into the cab wiring on my S10 swap truck, and could use a recommendation regarding the light switch. My donour S10 is a 1996, and it has that ghastly plastic combination switch (rocker style for headlight/parking light and a dial for the dash light dimmer). I truly don’t want to mount that thing in my truck, so I am hoping that someone on this board can recommend a single switch that does the same stuff and is relatively easy to wire up. If anyone has a make & model of switch (or the make & model of the vehicle it’s meant for) I would really appreciate it.

Thanks guys (and gals)


Stephan
(Project Fargolet in the build section)

P.S. Thanks for the advice on the battery location issue!

[skymangs]

I use an original style, but for 12V from Classic Parts

[skymangs]

Just so you guys know I do sell pre-made cab stands and running Board brackets on eBay. Either includes instructions and schematics for making bed cross sills https://www.ebay.com/itm/133595288748 https://www.ebay.com/itm/133595290636

[skymangs]

I also sell upholster to taste full length door Panel backs https://www.ebay.com/itm/133757204289

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I was asked to post this how to in this thread.

Frenched headlights
First you remove the headlights and buckets in preparation for the new buckets

Congrats on post #1000!!

[skymangs]

Thanks gigamax

Additionally I have decided against the new running board bracket design and have reverted back to my original design

[skymangs]

bump