Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[1958Warrior]

Every ones got different opinions on pinion angle, some say 0* others say3*
I went with -5* according to
http://www.quickperformance.com/Pini...ent_ep_45.html

I got my angle finder years ago at Home depot $12 if I remember rite

Would be interested in what your pinion was set at since it did seem like it was functioning ok for you, or did it have any issues with vibrating ect.?

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 1958Warrior

Every ones got different opinions on pinion angle, some say 0* others say3*
I went with -5* according to
http://www.quickperformance.com/Pini...ent_ep_45.html

I got my angle finder years ago at Home depot $12 if I remember rite

Would be interested in what your pinion was set at since it did seem like it was functioning ok for you, or did it have any issues with vibrating ect.?

I need to read through that thread, Thanks.

I don't think there's any way to accurately tell you how the pinion angle was setup now that the engine, trans and rearend has been pulled. I'm no automotive engineer but it SEEMS like the downward tilt of the rear of the engine/trans combo ought to align with the upward tilt of the rearend so the driveshaft universals spend most of the time NOT coping with angle changes while driving. Wouldn't that give the longest life to the universal joints? Maybe there are other considerations your link will explain(?)

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

SEEMS like the downward tilt of the rear of the engine/trans combo ought to align with the upward tilt of the rearend so the driveshaft universals spend most of the time NOT coping with angle changes while driving. (?)

Dan, that's the way I've always done mine, and it works out good...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Dan, that's the way I've always done mine, and it works out good...Jim

Me too. You want the angle of the center line of the pinion shaft to drive shaft and the angle of the centerline of the transmission output shaft to drive shaft to be within 1/2 degree of each other.

[Kim57]

Looks like you're making good progress.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Looks like you're making good progress.
Kim

Thanks Kim. I've got an errand to run after work today and my brother in law will be out of town after today but we're going to TRY to get together at 5 with some help to lift the cab off and set it aside on four furniture dollies (for now). I've got a vacation coming up soon so there will be a week's downtime but when I get back I'm thinking of taking a couple additional days to clean and paint the frame and flip the rear end - well, at least set it up somewhen the welder comes he can knock it all out in a day.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I agree with you guys. It seems most logical. But if you read the link in post #1046 it says the pinion gear tries to "climb" the ring gear and you set the pinion negative to offset that. My brother in law removed the leaf springs yesterday and there were wedges under them pointing the pinion down, aka that recommendation. I guess I kinda see the value of that if you were racing regularly, launching hard is what I mean. But for ordinary cruising it SEEMS like matching angles on both ends of the driveshaft is less wear and tear long term.

More opinions appreciated on this subject!

[Advanced Design]

Yes, you want matching angles on both ends of the drive shaft with the truck weight on the rear springs.

[Coupeguy2001]

Dan,
you are just going to have to put the thing together and see what you get.
I used my front wedges to align the rear axle to point at the trans, and the trans points at the rear end. it's about the same angle.
Before I adjusted the angle, the thing pointed skyward.
I added No Limit traction bars.
With the NO Limit traction bars, you can preload the rear so the springs do not wrap up, so the rear yoke does not "climb" the frame. totally tuneable.
Also makes the thing turn better as well.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Been out of town on vacation and I'm back now.

Thinking it over I'm gonna load my cab into my dually and take it to a painter for an estimate. My brother in law has used the guy in restoring several VW's and the work seems fine for what I'm looking for - truly nice, but not "show".

I'm thinking it'll get the body parts out of my way and "while I'm in there" (yes, another) I may bite the bullet and have paint and body work done before I reassemble with the new IFS and rear end flip. It'll be costly but I KNOW I'll be happy to have my truck "done" - to the degree any of these are ever truly done. Thoughts and opinions appreciated as usual.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Got out in the driveway after work last night - man, it was HOT!!! after spending all day in air conditioning.

I mixed up a 50-50 solution of heavy duty degreaser & water and went at the rear of the frame with a stiff bristle brush. It hardly touched the 60 year old grease.

Next, I got on it with a thin blade paint scraper and found that about where the rear end rides there was a very thin layer of grease/dirt adhering strongly to the inside of the C channel. I could get it 90% off but it's tough. On the front leaf spring attachment points some of the grease on their was hardened nearly into concrete. Worked and worked at that and eventually got all of it off the outside. Up inside them the grease was very stiff but not hardened.

I've got helpers coming Sunday to lift the cab off. We'll put it in the bed of my dually and I'll take it to a blaster and (hopefully) painting with an epoxy primer.

Then I may drop back and punt. Meaning just go ahead with the frame mods and after I'll consider taking it to the blaster too. It's another "while-I'm-in-there/slipper-slope" cost but the entire thing is down to the frame, I want it clean and well painted!

[ChuckDriver]

You are right Dan, it's a slippery slope for sure, Sounds like you are doing some great work, lets see some pic's when you get a chance!

[Coupeguy2001]

Dan,
When these trucks were new, they dipped the frames in wax to keep the frames from corroding.
Over the years, the wax hardens and softens with use and heating and cooling. The wax gets dirt and grease in it, and tends to "toughen up" with all the contaminants in it.
If you get it all scraped off, you need to paint it with por 15 to re-establish your corrosion barrier, or paint it with some other really tough paint.

Painting the cab can get expensive, as the door work comes into play. Check your door fitment now, and check at the shop. Be sure to lay some old carpet or something down onto the two by fours that you put down to set the cab on the trailer.
when you put the cab on the trailer, you want the cab to sit on the cab mounts, not on the sheet metal as that can cause distortion of the rocker panels if the cab shifts on the trailer far enough.
It would be wise to bolt the two by fours together vertically and then again use a couple more to strengthen the sides of the 2X4 stack.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so here she is stripped to the frame. Obviously there a re some lines and stuff that need to come off but for all intents it's a full frame off job now!


And here's the cab. I'm into it neck deep now guys. Hopefully progress is steady if not the fastest. I still have a full time job. The 4x4 blocks you see weren't yet in their final position. That was done after this photo.


Wish me luck, I'll need it to keep my head above water and not let myself stagnate...

[Stepside Jim]

Looks like you're moving forward.

At this time I usually use the word "Commit", you're too far now to turn back.

Savor every victory along the way, Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Boy, am I ever committed. I'm so committed I should BE committed!

[oldman3]

Hope everything goes your way with the work. We'll try and keep you moving along...Jim

[Kim57]

Nice progress.
A lot of work but well worth it.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Nice progress.
A lot of work but well worth it.
Kim

Feels like I'm.... c r a w l i n g.... on progress.

My OCD tendencies keeps me wanting to wire wheel the frame clean when really the priority is:
- Get the IFS cross member fitted and the R& P notch located.
- Cut the old leaf spring pads off the rear end/grind the axle tubes smooth
- Buy new pads off so I'll be ready it's time to refit the rear end.

If I can get the suspension squared away, tacked and ready for my welder buddy to finish it, I'll feel I'm making progress. At the same time I want to send the body off for blasting and epoxy primer which will get stuff out of my way physically and I'll be making parallel on the body/cosmetics.

All this plus I'm out of town for a few days for our granddaughter's 1st birthday and a week's vacation in about a month. I just keep telling myself to spend an hour or two outside every night after work. Chip away bit at a time with the ballgame on and a cool beverage in hand.

[Russell Ashley]

Dan, think of it like ham and eggs: The chicken was involved but the hog was committed. You are now the hog in this project, LOL.

I'll be following along as you "gitter done".

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just updating thread for my later reference:

Taking Friday off to rent a flatbed (damn, cab won't QUITE fit in my dually bed!) to load cab and take to blaster. Since I have not yet blown apart my bed into component pieces or the front clip either those WILL go in pieces to the blaster later. Give me time to set up my compressor and buy primer.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh and PS: "Recommended Epoxy Primer Brands for an Idiot's Use" will be appreciated.

[Kim57]

SPI epoxy is easy to use.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kim57

SPI epoxy is easy to use.

...for idiots!

Thanks Kim!

This has to be ordered online only, right?

What solvent or catalyst, etc do I want to order. What mixing cups, etc? As I've said, I know SQUAT about spraying automotive paints.

[Kim57]

I can spray it with no problems and it sands real nice.
Of course I have no experience with anything else.
Here's some info on it.
http://media.wix.com/ugd/8ced3e_1e5c...ee9f969705.pdf
And here's their pricing page. It runs right around $200.00 for two spray-able gallons (mixes 1to1).
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!pricing/c20uv
Only took a few days to get it when I ordered mine.
They also have wax/grease remover.
I just use the plastic graduated cups from Home Depot to mix it.
Kim