My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[Captainfab]

Good.....I thought it was just me that couldn't see anything but bubble wrap.

Originally Posted by Vic1947

All I see is bubble wrap, but what you're describing sounds awesome, John!

Looks good John . Yeah those are some good sized domes. Even with the cam you're running, you'll likely need to mill some off of them like you said, to get your dynamic compression down to a pump gas friendly ratio.

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Weird...

[jlsanborn]

Yep, target has been 11.0:1 static, which I think will be fine with the cam, a tight squish, manual trans and the right gear. We'll see! I ordered a better burette so I can more accurately cc the chambers. I'll also check the advertised -6.3cc piston tops. The trick is going to be figuring out how much to machine off to get to my target. My thought is making an imprint with clay, use the burette to fill the mold with the volume I want gone, then trying to measure the depth of that liquid. Any other ideas? We'll measure all four corners with one piston/rod assembly for an accurate zero deck and then use a standard composition gasket (0.041") for squish.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Yep, target has been 11.0:1 static, which I think will be fine with the cam, a tight squish, manual trans and the right gear. We'll see! I ordered a better burette so I can more accurately cc the chambers. I'll also check the advertised -6.3cc piston tops. The trick is going to be figuring out how much to machine off to get to my target. My thought is making an imprint with clay, use the burette to fill the mold with the volume I want gone, then trying to measure the depth of that liquid. Any other ideas? We'll measure all four corners with one piston/rod assembly for an accurate zero deck and then use a standard composition gasket (0.041") for squish.

The way I've done it in the past is to:
1. Put together a rod/piston/ring assembly and install it in its bore with a thin coat of grease on the top ring with an extra dab at the ring end gap.
2. Rotate the crank and bring up the piston top to exact TDC with a dial indicator.
3. Bolt on and torque the head with a gasket like what you plan to use. (I usually just torque the five bolts around the cylinder I'm checking.)
4. Rotate the block/head assembly on the engine stand to where the spark plug hole is looking straight up.
5. Use your burette to quickly fill the void space up to the bottom most spark plug thread.
6. Use the volume to calculate the exact static CR. (SV+CV)/CV=CR
7. Substitute the CR you want into the formula and solve for CV.
8. The difference is the volume you want to remove from the dome.
9. Your idea of using the clay and making an impression of the dome should work just fine. I'd probably use a pancake of clay with Saran Wrap over it and press the dome down until it was flat and level against the table. Then use the burette to fill the impression with the volume you calculated above. Measure the depth with a depth gauge or vernier caliper and you have your number.
10. Another way is to carefully trace the outline of the dome onto a piece of graph paper. Count the number of squares to determine the area, then divide the area into the desired volume to get the height. This may be slightly less accurate depending on your tracing and counting technique. I scan the trace and import it into my CAD program and use the irregular, continuous, splined shape tool to calculate the area. But if you don't have something like that, graph paper gets you pretty close.

[Bomp]

Sweet looking pieces.
Motor is going to be a monster.

[JG67]

Nice looking rig. Done with pride and patience...

[Low Elco]

Rumpity-rumpity!

[Stuntmonkey]

Favourite build on the forum!

What are the tire/wheel specs/brand?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

The way I've done it in the past is to:
1. Put together a rod/piston/ring assembly and install it in its bore with a thin coat of grease on the top ring with an extra dab at the ring end gap.
2. Rotate the crank and bring up the piston top to exact TDC with a dial indicator.
3. Bolt on and torque the head with a gasket like what you plan to use. (I usually just torque the five bolts around the cylinder I'm checking.)
4. Rotate the block/head assembly on the engine stand to where the spark plug hole is looking straight up.
5. Use your burette to quickly fill the void space up to the bottom most spark plug thread.
6. Use the volume to calculate the exact static CR. (SV+CV)/CV=CR
7. Substitute the CR you want into the formula and solve for CV.
8. The difference is the volume you want to remove from the dome.
9. Your idea of using the clay and making an impression of the dome should work just fine. I'd probably use a pancake of clay with Saran Wrap over it and press the dome down until it was flat and level against the table. Then use the burette to fill the impression with the volume you calculated above. Measure the depth with a depth gauge or vernier caliper and you have your number.
10. Another way is to carefully trace the outline of the dome onto a piece of graph paper. Count the number of squares to determine the area, then divide the area into the desired volume to get the height. This may be slightly less accurate depending on your tracing and counting technique. I scan the trace and import it into my CAD program and use the irregular, continuous, splined shape tool to calculate the area. But if you don't have something like that, graph paper gets you pretty close.

Cant help but say it, but a lot of us are sure glad your hanging around this forum!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

The way I've done it in the past is to:
1. Put together a rod/piston/ring assembly and install it in its bore with a thin coat of grease on the top ring with an extra dab at the ring end gap.
2. Rotate the crank and bring up the piston top to exact TDC with a dial indicator.
3. Bolt on and torque the head with a gasket like what you plan to use. (I usually just torque the five bolts around the cylinder I'm checking.)
4. Rotate the block/head assembly on the engine stand to where the spark plug hole is looking straight up.
5. Use your burette to quickly fill the void space up to the bottom most spark plug thread.
6. Use the volume to calculate the exact static CR. (SV+CV)/CV=CR
7. Substitute the CR you want into the formula and solve for CV.
8. The difference is the volume you want to remove from the dome.
9. Your idea of using the clay and making an impression of the dome should work just fine. I'd probably use a pancake of clay with Saran Wrap over it and press the dome down until it was flat and level against the table. Then use the burette to fill the impression with the volume you calculated above. Measure the depth with a depth gauge or vernier caliper and you have your number.
10. Another way is to carefully trace the outline of the dome onto a piece of graph paper. Count the number of squares to determine the area, then divide the area into the desired volume to get the height. This may be slightly less accurate depending on your tracing and counting technique. I scan the trace and import it into my CAD program and use the irregular, continuous, splined shape tool to calculate the area. But if you don't have something like that, graph paper gets you pretty close.

I'll definitely do the final CR check that way Vic. Great thinking!

Originally Posted by Bomp

Sweet looking pieces.
Motor is going to be a monster.

It's beginning to pile up. Need more bux!

Originally Posted by JG67

Nice looking rig. Done with pride and patience...

Thanks JG, it's becoming a test of my patience!

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Rumpity-rumpity!

That's what I'm hoping for. Boy thinks I wasted my time on all that exhaust and it's going to be vroom-vroooooom. We'll see!

Originally Posted by Stuntmonkey

Favourite build on the forum!

What are the tire/wheel specs/brand?

Thanks Stuntmonkey, mine too! Wheels are from Wheel Vintiques, series 62, 15x8 and 15x10 with their standard back spacing (4-1/4" I believe). Tires are BFG Radial T/A, 295/50-15 and 235/60-15. Hub caps are something I found on Craigslist.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Cant help but say it, but a lot of us are sure glad your hanging around this forum!

I totally agree! Vic has a lot of experience and is one smart feller. Always takes the high road, never half-azzed. I dream of a shop as clean as his one day too.

My fancy burrette showed up today. Gotta find a place to keep that sucker where it won't get busted!

[808_67C10]

jason!!! what's up bro? Looks like the truck is coming along. when are u gonna freshen Crummy up? i hope all is well!

[jlsanborn]

No more wife, new life.

Had to pull the plug boys and loaded her into a storage shed. I'll still be plunking along with this motor in the meantime but it'll likely be next year before I can build a new shop. To be continued...

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

No more wife, new life.

Had to pull the plug boys and loaded her into a storage shed. I'll still be plunking along with this motor in the meantime but it'll likely be next year before I can build a new shop. To be continued...

Posted via Mobile Device

[Low Elco]

Stupid phone. I'm sorry to hear this, John. Hope all are well. You moving in with Knuckles?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Vic1947]

As a guy who took 25 years to finish a project, I for one will be patiently waiting for your thread to resume. My personal philosophy is that when it comes to my hotrods, the only person I have to make happy is myself.

[Captainfab]

Sorry to hear that John. Been there myself.....been about 28 years though.

Don't be a stranger here just because you aren't working on your truck.

[Bomp]

whoa, take care brother

[swamp rat]

Glad you could find a storage shed to take the rig, around here not as easy, hang in there and get back to it when ya can!

[jlsanborn]

Thanks all. Things will be better. Knuckles, his little sister and I are shacked up at Gramma and Grandpa's. Two tries are enough for me, so I think I'm going to build a shop out here stick around. I'll have more time and money to devote to the project too. No hard feelings with Wifey really. Mutual decision, just terribly sad. I'm not far from getting back on that 327. Brought my heads to another shop and they found more issues.

[sduckworth13]

Dang John, I feel for you man. Keep your head up, your a good man.

[Bennett68C10]

Sorry to hear that! I went through the same thing last year. I can tell you that things will turn around for you and definitely get better.

[808_67C10]

Aloha bro, hope all is well. Time heals all! Except rust... Time makes that worse! Lol

[Low Elco]

Yeah, what's up Johnny?

[jlsanborn]

Still here guys! House didn't sell before winter, so looks like I'll have to put a little more work into that this spring and get it back on the block. Wifey and I have been trying to maybe patch things up but it's been a lot of the same-o.

I did FINALLY get my heads done but it was a lot of drama, a lot of moolah and my "replacement" cores aren't as nice as the ones I had. The port job on the second set is nice but I don't think he took as much time as he did on the first. I had to wait a spell for the replacement spring but they're done. Chambers measured out at 65cc, intake runners are 165cc and the exhausts are 63cc.

Gotta save sheckles for con-rods next. Might have something in the works that'll help that situation! Stay tuned.

[Vic1947]

Heads look great, John. The cutters they have nowadays make quick work of tasks that were done by hand years ago. Did your porter also use them in the pocket areas to get the basic shape? Intakes look unshrouded enough to run on a bigger bore engine. You got plans you're not sharing?

[Low Elco]

Nice stuff! How's Knuckles?