1963 C-10 in NC

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Pimpston65......heres the pics you requested. I tried to get some good pics of the mounting locations also for the bolts. Let me know if you need more.

thks a bunch either my box is wrong or i need new holes, cuz my box is way to close to the bumper and the draglink is too off. darn PO. it was working when i did drive the truck the 3 time a total of 20miles before i blew it apart. oh well i have a hammer drill,thks for the pics

[bj383ss]

If your steering box is just leaking from the seal and has no slack in it, it is real easy to replace the 3 seals and put new grease in it. I just did mine. I ordered the pitman and steering shaft seals from truckshop.com. I made my own gasket for the top plate from some Felpro gasket sheet. I packed it with non synthetic grease.

After reading I should have used gear oil due to channeling of the grease. I put a lot of grease in there I packed it in before putting the pitman shaft and gear back in.

Cost me about $25 total to rebuild it. My worm gear had no slack and the top and bottom bearings where in good shape.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by pimpston65

thks a bunch either my box is wrong or i need new holes, cuz my box is way to close to the bumper and the draglink is too off. darn PO. it was working when i did drive the truck the 3 time a total of 20miles before i blew it apart. oh well i have a hammer drill,thks for the pics

You could always shorten the shaft and just mount the box forward of where it is now.....

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by bj383ss

If your steering box is just leaking from the seal and has no slack in it, it is real easy to replace the 3 seals and put new grease in it. I just did mine. I ordered the pitman and steering shaft seals from truckshop.com. I made my own gasket for the top plate from some Felpro gasket sheet. I packed it with non synthetic grease.

After reading I should have used gear oil due to channeling of the grease. I put a lot of grease in there I packed it in before putting the pitman shaft and gear back in.

Cost me about $25 total to rebuild it. My worm gear had no slack and the top and bottom bearings where in good shape.

Yeah, its just the pitman arm shaft seal that's leaking. Wasn't leaking prior to disassembly on the front end, so most likely occurred when removing the pitman arm. I think I'm going to order the parts from truckshop.....I've used them before for quite a few parts.

[1963c-10]

Picked up a steering coupler rebuild kit last night when I popped in to Advanced Auto with the Bluebomber. He had a brake light issue (easily resolved with two new bulbs). Anyways....they had the kits on the shelf for $9 so while I have the steering box off for rebuild I'll rebuild the steering coupler.

[1963c-10]

Picked up a new toy today from Harbor Freight. Ive been ok so far without one since I normally just do engine / trans separate. But I want to install the engine/trans together this time. they had a 1 1/2 ton leveler for $26.99, but the 2 ton leveler was only $29.99 and has a built in handle as opposed to using a socket.....just more hands free in my opinion.

Goal is engine/trans set in this weekend.

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Picked up a new toy today from Harbor Freight. Ive been ok so far without one since I normally just do engine / trans separate. But I want to install the engine/trans together this time. they had a 1 1/2 ton leveler for $26.99, but the 2 ton leveler was only $29.99 and has a built in handle as opposed to using a socket.....just more hands free in my opinion.

Goal is engine/trans set in this weekend.

better to lift that BIG BLOCK!!!

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Picked up a steering coupler rebuild kit last night when I popped in to Advanced Auto with the Bluebomber. He had a brake light issue (easily resolved with two new bulbs). Anyways....they had the kits on the shelf for $9 so while I have the steering box off for rebuild I'll rebuild the steering coupler.

Captain fab said my gearbox may be 67-72 vintage, plus if i move it back id need to drill more holes and shorten the steering shaft ugggg. so if it is 67-72 style ima do it right and get a relocate bracket from him and shorten the shaft, good thing i have two, cuz if the jack the first shaft i will know my mistakes and rock the second one. thks for the pics. my friend is a welder at Michigan Cat so i'll let him handle the rod and he's welding the evap. for my burbans ac unit T.I.G style and free baby free!!!!

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by pimpston65

Captain fab said my gearbox may be 67-72 vintage, plus if i move it back id need to drill more holes and shorten the steering shaft ugggg. so if it is 67-72 style ima do it right and get a relocate bracket from him and shorten the shaft, good thing i have two, cuz if the jack the first shaft i will know my mistakes and rock the second one. thks for the pics. my friend is a welder at Michigan Cat so i'll let him handle the rod and he's welding the evap. for my burbans ac unit T.I.G style and free baby free!!!!

Cool, sounds like your on track with it. I'm going to replace the seals and bearings in mine and see if it resolves the issue. If not, I'll look at aftermarket alternatives or a remanufactured unit.

[bj383ss]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Picked up a new toy today from Harbor Freight. Ive been ok so far without one since I normally just do engine / trans separate. But I want to install the engine/trans together this time. they had a 1 1/2 ton leveler for $26.99, but the 2 ton leveler was only $29.99 and has a built in handle as opposed to using a socket.....just more hands free in my opinion.

Goal is engine/trans set in this weekend.

I have one of these and love it. It balances the engine/trans perfectly. It is a little hard to crank the screw when all the weight is on it. Can't wait to see that BBC in there!

[1963c-10]

removed the cpp mounts from the 348 and put the stock mounts back under it. i have the cpp mounts on the stepside frame now. considering using the tubular trans mount and moving the engine forward some....originally i was going to work the firewall, but the more i look at measurements it'l be tight with a tailshaft mounted floor shift. the extra inch or two will help. so the original bellhousing crossmember will some out. i can use either trans mount, but the original will take some massaging to make it work. we'll know this weekend. i also have to be carefull how far forward since its a lwp setup

[1963c-10]

had a good day today. drove an hour north to go pick what was left of a 65 c-10 52,000 mile truckk. he had the cab, hood and some stuff i had him pull a week ago. truck was vin #595, lowest 65 ive seen yet from the baltimore plant.

picked up a nice factory fan shroud w/no cracks, gem of a deluxe seat minus 1 rip. still has some of the factory plastic cover left on the back. ill reuse the frame and let a 65 guy use the cover for a template. i'll turn it into a 63 deluxe seat. got the 4 way hazards, deluxe wheel, tailgate, found a random set of 60-63 inner door panels and........finally.......found a 60-66 power brake pedal. score of the day at $20 and nearly perfect. i'l get some pics up monday as i can't load them from my phone. shroud fit over the 348 nicely....i'll use my drum style on the stepside. also got a tailgate and spent $270 in total. he has the floor shift column for me and will bring down in a week when he comes to visit his dad.

[1963c-10]

truck had a high hump, but he had the cab sold to someone from michigan. hope its a forum member as the cab was 95% rust free. had a gorgeous cluster, but was going with the cab. nice hood he wanted $200 on, but i have 3 already.

[pimpston65]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

truck had a high hump, but he had the cab sold to someone from michigan. hope its a forum member as the cab was 95% rust free. had a gorgeous cluster, but was going with the cab. nice hood he wanted $200 on, but i have 3 already.

Wasn't me that bought it, kinda wish it was... Rust free is nice!!!

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by pimpston65

Wasn't me that bought it, kinda wish it was... Rust free is nice!!!

had a nickle size hole by the a piller on the floor. other than that it was rust free from what i saw. says its been in a garage for the last ten years. i dont know why he parted it out as everything looked great that was there. the harness was a gem too...looked nos it was that nice. had the deluxe knobs, aluminum grill (already sold) and windhield/sail panels for trim. no body trim and warning lights, not gauges

[chevy6guy9]

How nice was the hood, I think I saw it on the Craig's but Leary of things with only a couple small pics.

[1963c-10]

was a good hood for $200....said he'd take $150 if someone offered it. had a small area that needed some minor attention on the back of the driver side edge. just a little bend from being stood up on edge. other than that looked very solid. didnt have a magnet on me as i wasnt going for sheetmetal, but inside supports were all solid as was the inner lip

[markeb01]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

Picked up a new toy today from Harbor Freight. Ive been ok so far without one since I normally just do engine / trans separate. But I want to install the engine/trans together this time. they had a 1 1/2 ton leveler for $26.99, but the 2 ton leveler was only $29.99 and has a built in handle as opposed to using a socket.....just more hands free in my opinion.

Goal is engine/trans set in this weekend.

One thing I've found that makes a big difference in using those tilters is lubricating the snot out of the screw, all inside the channel, and the rollers. I liberally apply grease to mine, and when not in use I keep it in a plastic bag to prevent contamination while in storage.

[chevy6guy9]

Ok I may try and get that, I'm in need of a decent hood. Thought about waiting for auto fair.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by markeb01

One thing I've found that makes a big difference in using those tilters is lubricating the snot out of the screw, all inside the channel, and the rollers. I liberally apply grease to mine, and when not in use I keep it in a plastic bag to prevent contamination while in storage.

thanks mark, i'l be sure to grease it up good 1st.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by chevy6guy9

Ok I may try and get that, I'm in need of a decent hood. Thought about waiting for auto fair.

i don't think you'l be disappointed with the hood at $150-200

[1963c-10]

Couple of pics of the parts I got off the 65 Deluxe saturday.

Great find on the pedal pad, it will clean up nicely and has very little wear on it. But plenty of dirt.. The seat will be a great donar for a 63 deluxe conversion. I'll pull the 65 cover off so it can be used as a template. Couple of small dings here and there and a few mud dobber nests, but the seat will clean up nicely and will be a nice addition to the 63 fleetside

[1963c-10]

Also got the four way hazards....I have a bowtie 105 knob somewhere that I'd like to swap knobs out for. The steering wheel is cleaning up very nicely. Some pitting on the horn ring, but a nice wheel. The shroud fit in great over the 348. Its a tight fit, but it'll work.

Also posted a pic of the 65's VIN. Lowest VIN I have seen yet for a 65. Its not often you see a triple digit VIN #. Was such a clean truck, hated to see it parted out. Wasn't much left when I arrived, so glad I called him a week ago and had him pull what I wanted.

[1963c-10]

Had a long busy weekend. Did have time to pull the CPP perches from under the 348 and get them in the stepside. Got the manual trans crossmember taken out. Would have been a lot easier a week ago when I had the front crossmember done, but it is what it is. Ended up grinding off all 12 rivets and pulling it in 3 pieces. I can slide it forward with some modification, but it'll put the transmission up around 1/2" - 3/4" higher than the stock location. Also have the CPP tubular trans mount I can use on the tailshaft mount......decisions, decisions.

[TJ's Chevy]

Looks good! I envy the power brake pad. lol