Got some new wheels: Boss 338's in 20x10 and 20x8.5

[brossow]

Originally Posted by 1967wannabe

My wheels (20x10 5.5 bs & 20x8.5) are in at the supplier, just waiting on the BFG G-force KDW's. I had my guy send two pics, not the best angle though.

From what I can tell from those pics, they just added more bulk to the back, effectively the same thing as adding a spacer. If that's the case, my decision whether or not to just stick with what I have got a helluva lot easier. And if that's the case, it makes me wonder how long your rear studs have to be to get through all that meat.

EDIT: Looks like maybe the lug nuts just sink way the heck down into the rim, so no need for longer studs but could make things interesting to remove them in an emergency (e.g. flat tire) if you don't have a deep, thin-walled lug nut socket with you.

[205dke187]

The only choice for me is a CUSTOM wheel. 800.00 each. 22x12 in the rear and 20x8.5 in the front.
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[1967wannabe]

Originally Posted by brossow

From what I can tell from those pics, they just added more bulk to the back, effectively the same thing as adding a spacer. If that's the case, my decision whether or not to just stick with what I have got a helluva lot easier. And if that's the case, it makes me wonder how long your rear studs have to be to get through all that meat.

EDIT: Looks like maybe the lug nuts just sink way the heck down into the rim, so no need for longer studs but could make things interesting to remove them in an emergency (e.g. flat tire) if you don't have a deep, thin-walled lug nut socket with you.

That's what I thought at first and was pretty disappointed but, upon further inspection, the rear lip looks significantly fatter than the front. But, like I said, poor picture angle, I called back and asked him to stand the wheels up & take another pic. IF all they did was make the flange thicker then I'll be sending them back and looking for something else. I'll post more pics as soon as I get them.

Do you have any 20x8.5 - 20x10 comparison pics? (with the 6.225 bs)

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by funkytechmonkey

I only have the willwood calipers... not rotors.

Is there a measurement I can take for you guys that would help?

Measurements would be great as mentioned above...what brand are the rotors?

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by brossow

From what I can tell from those pics, they just added more bulk to the back, effectively the same thing as adding a spacer. If that's the case, my decision whether or not to just stick with what I have got a helluva lot easier. ....snip......

Yes. Clearly, this is the answer. I will guarantee, withing a 2% range for error , that the smaller backspacing did not give us any wider "lip".
However, the pics made me happy....as I like the wheels, and I can now stop this silly quest for the deeper rim.

\I have 'em. I like 'em, and I'm gonna run 'em.

Here are a couple of early fitting shots that, hopefully, shows the difference in the 8.5 fronts and 10.0 rears with the early (my) backspacing.

[funkytechmonkey]

I got a few measurements....

And for those asking.... this is the front kit that I bought from Performance Online with the Willwood Caliper

Click Here For To See Kit....

[mcbassin]

Thanks for the pics Brian. It looks like the Wilwood rotors are tapered at the end to give you more clearance.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by funkytechmonkey

I got a few measurements....

Thanks for the measurements and pics, but the measurements we really need are the diameter (not the height) of the hub. Most of the interference with stock HD rotors is due to the width of the hub portion, not the height. Thanks again!

[VA72C10]

Yep, looks like the taper is what's allowing these to work...guess those getting boss 338's need to include POL rotors as part of the purchase

[funkytechmonkey]

Well that sucks.... I was hoping these new wheels would work for us all. If I get a day off this week I will try them on my 68 and see if they fit. It has a 1.5" rotor.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Thanks for the pics Brian. It looks like the Wilwood rotors are tapered at the end to give you more clearance.

Those aren't Wilwood rotors.

They are the standard cross drilled rotor that Performance Online sells.
The calipers are Wilwoods D52's that are an oem replacement with dual pistons.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by funkytechmonkey

Well that sucks.... I was hoping these new wheels would work for us all. If I get a day off this week I will try them on my 68 and see if they fit. It has a 1.5" rotor.

I assume you mean 1.25" rotor?

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by brossow

Thanks for the measurements and pics, but the measurements we really need are the diameter (not the height) of the hub. Most of the interference with stock HD rotors is due to the width of the hub portion, not the height. Thanks again!

I don't know...But this is what Photoshop says. No resizing. But if it's important to be "dead on"...like in millimeters...., I'd verify it for a bad angle by the "Photoshopper"...me!

[funkytechmonkey]

I'll take that measurement when I get home tonight.

[funkytechmonkey]

This help?

[brossow]

Originally Posted by funkytechmonkey

This help?

Unfortunately, not really. Because of the clearance issues we're talking about, a micrometer should be used to get the exact diameter because even a couple millimeters could make a difference. Not a problem if you don't have one, and thanks for the effort!

[VA72C10]

Thanks for taking the time to measure and post the pics.

Now...does anyone have a stock rotor measured the same way to see if the taper on these is the difference (what it appears to be)

[brossow]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Thanks for taking the time to measure and post the pics.

Now...does anyone have a stock rotor measured the same way to see if the taper on these is the difference (what it appears to be)

I'm pretty sure I posted measurements from my digital mic somewhere in this thread. ...Checking... Yep, it was posted here. To save you a click, here's what I had to say:

Originally Posted by brossow

[Also posted in the Group Buy thread]

Might be some disappointed 338 fans out there. Just decided I should check the new hub bore and compare it with my front hubs (assuming the 20x8.5 will have the same bore as the 20x10). Here are the results from my digital caliper:

New 338 hub bore on the front side of rim: 2.682" (68 mm)

Stock hub outside diameter: 2.835" (72 mm)

So it looks like even after all this waiting I'm still gonna get to do some grinding on the hubs to get the fronts to fit. That's really super-duper-uncool, even if it's only 2 mm all around. I thought these had been reworked to fit properly.

(No, I haven't tried test-fitting yet. The chassis is still buried under a pile of parts from winter storage.)

Brent

[VA72C10]

cool, thanks! I thought you or someone else had but 43 pages........

Just want to keep the info side by side....if we can get a caliper measurement of the newest wheels out to verify they have or haven't changed and also of the POL rotors it'd be something I'd try to have an admin add as an update to the first post for people that find this thread....

[1967wannabe]

Well, here they are. The chrome helps a lot in the "lip" dept so I think I'll run with them.
They're here outside my office so if anyone needs any measurements just holler.

[Andy4639]

I bought these wheels back in the spring of the year. Here are some pictures I just took of the hub and back spacing.
1 1/4" rotor with just a little off the hub for the cap to clear.




Cap has the o-ring to keep it on.




5 1/4" to the wheel lip and 5 1/2" backspacing to clear the tire.

[1967wannabe]

Pics of the 20x10 on a 13" rotor (with better lighting and better angle of the lip width).

[funkytechmonkey]

Aight... So I ran into a problem. Passanger side mounts up and fits PERFECT. No problem at all. Drivers side... not so much. I didnt even notice the difference in the rotors when mounting them up. The drivers side is kinda rough and the smooth lip that goes up against the flat part of the rotor is not consistantly round. The passanger side is all smooth and the flat surface is perfect all the way around. I have taken a few pics to see if you guys can help me.

I have taken a grinder to the rough part of the drivers side and the wheel goes on a little bit further but it still does not set all the way against the rotor. I would really like to fix this myself... I know its going to be WEEKS before I can call POL, have them ship me a new one and exchange them out. Any help would be great guys... thanks! here are the pics.

[BrianV]

so where is the best place to buy these wheels that you guys know of

thanks
Brian

[funkytechmonkey]

Originally Posted by BrianV

so where is the best place to buy these wheels that you guys know of

thanks
Brian

check page 41.

Back to my question... Is it safe for me to grind on this rotor or will I screw something up? whats my best option?