My Dusty 71 GMCe Electruck

[Gregski]

I believe when it comes to de rusting it take two to Tango, abrasives and acid

Prep & Etch Phosphoric acid from Home Depot (like all them fancy de rusting conglamorets at a fraction of the cost and works way better) used to be $5 bucks per gallon now it's like $20

also this is the new(er) California formula so no rubber gloves required (jk)

[Gregski]

then it was time for the big stick, cause I haven't decided which one I'm gonna run yet, any advice?

[Gregski]

a little before and after the dance of the wire wheel, then primer then paint, I like my rods silver and my sheets black

[Gregski]

and here are them brackets that are usually rivited to the frame rails, these will also get media blasted (I hate putting greasy bits in the media blasting cabinet as it gunks up the media) and then later powder coated

[Gregski]

hey I know let's check on those $3 dollar rubber seals that are holding up the project and preventing us from putting the control arms back on

how did that saying go again: "Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds"

[pjmoreland]

Looking good

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Looking good

thank you my brotha from anotha motha

[Gregski]

Anti Swaybar (pronounced: "Stabilizer bar") sizes according to Rock Auto

1-1/16 (in) (ah maybe I'm not crazy and my measurements were accurate)
1-3/32 (in)
1-1/8 (in)
1-3/16 (in)
1-1/4 (in)

that's it, where is Keith when you need him???

[Gregski]

yes the mind blowing excitement continues ...


[rant]
this stuff makes me think the next time you go to buy a truck or sell a truck and you or some dude want's $15K for it just pay it, or go ahead head over to Pick N Pull when it's 104° F out, in hopes of finding a donor truck, lay upside down on the gravel and drill out them rivets with your cordless and a stash of extra batteries, while the scorching hot metal shaving find their way down yer sleeve, throw in a few cuts and bruises and a solid head bump on the edge of that sharp front bumper.... I'll hold, ha ha
[/rant]

[Gregski]

also media blasted the other three hinges

[jimbosprint]

The larger sway bar will have less body roll when cornering. I would use that one.

[D.B]

Nice build and looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I have a question - Is the larger sway bar from the 1985 GMC 2500 a direct bolt up to the 67-72 trucks. I have a 72 C20 and would like to go to a larger bar but not want to pay the high cost for a new one. And I also do not want to drill any holes to make one fit.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by D.B

Nice build and looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I have a question - Is the larger sway bar from the 1985 GMC 2500 a direct bolt up to the 67-72 trucks. I have a 72 C20 and would like to go to a larger bar but not want to pay the high cost for a new one. And I also do not want to drill any holes to make one fit.

thanks and funny you ask, I just recently put the '85 2500 frame brackets against my frame and noticed two things:

1. my '69 frame only has one hole on each side instead of two, a friend of mine tells me that yeah we will have to drill out the rivet that holds the very front small crossmember in place and use that hole for the second hole. I hope you follow that and it makes sense.

2. the 85 bracket holes don't align perfectly (maybe 1/8th of an inch too narrow and the bracket needs to be spread out just a tad) but is it because I am putting C20 brackets on a C10, or is it because I am putting '85 brackets on a '69 frame or is it because there is still a river in the way, or is it because the bracket may have been warped a bit???

feel me, just trying to help (and get motivated to drill out yet more rivets, lol)

[D.B]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thanks and funny you ask, I just recently put the '85 2500 frame brackets against my frame and noticed two things:

1. my '69 frame only has one hole on each side instead of two, a friend of mine tells me that yeah we will have to drill out the rivet that holds the very front small crossmember in place and use that hole for the second hole. I hope you follow that and it makes sense.

2. the 85 bracket holes don't align perfectly (maybe 1/8th of an inch too narrow and the bracket needs to be spread out just a tad) but is it because I am putting C20 brackets on a C10, or is it because I am putting '85 brackets on a '69 frame or is it because there is still a river in the way, or is it because the bracket may have been warped a bit???

feel me, just trying to help (and get motivated to drill out yet more rivets, lol)

Yes I understand. I would say I am feeling you but that just does not sound right.
Your friend is correct the rivet that helps hold the front crossmember brace on does have to be removed when installing a sway bar on a truck that did not come with one.
Thanks for responding back to me. Now I will look for a 85 GMS 2500 front bar. Since I am in Texas, the Land of trucks. Maybe I can locate one cheap.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by D.B

Yes I understand. I would say I am feeling you but that just does not sound right.
Your friend is correct the rivet that helps hold the front crossmember brace on does have to be removed when installing a sway bar on a truck that did not come with one.
Thanks for responding back to me. Now I will look for a 85 GMS 2500 front bar. Since I am in Texas, the Land of trucks. Maybe I can locate one cheap.

yeah, try Walmart, lol

ok seriously though it only took a gentle tickle in the vice to expand them ever so slightly just so that we would not muck up the threads trying to force the bolts through the holes, I mean I put pressure on them in the vice by hand until I felt it budge and that's it I stopped, and they expended perfectly

[Blue GMC]

Man looks like you made a heck of a lot of progress while I took a nap or let real life kick me in the teeth for the last 6 months. Keep up the good work can't wait to see the first drive

[Gregski]

so while the Ken Stablerizer bar is getting painted I ordered an adjustable panhard bar for the butt of the truck as it was pointed out to me that with the truck being lowered (ever so slightly using only lowering coil boinger boingers) still the rear end seems to have shifted to the right aka passenger side 1/2" maybe(ish)

so Classic Parts broom stick to the rescue ($60 bucks plus finders fee, environmental fee, shipping, under coat fee, tax and license)

[8man]

Ken Stabilizer? Seriously? You need to do a poll to see how many know who that is a reference to.

On another note, nice progress on the truck.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Ken Stabilizer? Seriously? You need to do a poll to see how many know who that is a reference to.

On another note, nice progress on the truck.

hmmmm EXACTLY, funny how [ahem] a Cowboys fan got that, I'm waiting on the Steeler fans to chime in [hint hint people]

[Gregski]

seems like we all are getting along quite nicely on this thread, so time to start a fight

tell me what you think of these BLUE MOOG stablelizer bar bushings, I for one am not a fan, I want my rubber bushings to be made ... well, of rubber, black rubber, not this what ever recycle plastic material these are "PREMIUM MATERIALS -- Made from high-quality natural rubber material for durability and ride performance"

now in their defense the pics did show blue bushings but how many times have you ordered something only for it to arrive and not look like what you ordered

and I didn't spend all this time getting rid of all that purple on this truck to now only install blue stuff, sheeminy shimmies

Thermoplastic ??? don't make me GOOGLE that, cause I will !!!

[8man]

I vote they should be black.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

I vote they should be black.

My Man! I agree, so:

thermoplastic = synthetic

synthetic = imitation

so Imitation Rubber is what that Smurf stuff is !!!

[Gregski]

rig going back together

[Gregski]

couldn't get the rotors mounted cause guess who forgot to buy some bearings?

[Gregski]

the tips of the spindles were buggered up ever so slightly preventing the outer bearings from sliding on freely, nothing a gentle tickle with the cheese grader couldn't take care of