Restoring Rusty

[jetmech85]

The hole is open to the fuel pump push rod. Install a 3/8 bolt about a half inch long with a lock washer and thread sealer and that should fix you up. When changing a fuel pump you can snug a longer bolt in that hole to hold the fuel pump push rod in place so it wont slide out against the adapter plate and cause you grief and anguish.

[y5mgisi]

Originally Posted by jetmech85

The hole is open to the fuel pump push rod. Install a 3/8 bolt about a half inch long with a lock washer and thread sealer and that should fix you up. When changing a fuel pump you can snug a longer bolt in that hole to hold the fuel pump push rod in place so it wont slide out against the adapter plate and cause you grief and anguish.

Exactly.

[Chaplain]

Smart people...

[rusty76]

Vent not clogged up or maybe hung up somehow and preventing it from allowing the gas to be sucked out of the gas tank? If the pump is working then there's a air leak some where I would suspect..... Hope you get it fixed soon.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Vent not clogged up or maybe hung up somehow and preventing it from allowing the gas to be sucked out of the gas tank? If the pump is working then there's a air leak some where I would suspect..... Hope you get it fixed soon.

Or no vent line, and unvented gas cap? That will do it.

So, you got two lines to the tank, or three?

If no vent line, all you have to do is drill a 1/16" hole in the gas cap.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Or no vent line, and unvented gas cap? That will do it.

If no vent line, all you have to do is drill a 1/16" hole in the gas cap.

I totally agree with the physics of this Rich, but I wonder about whether that will fly in California or not. The emissions police in BC would fail a cap like that.

[brakenit]

If I remember right his truck is a '74 which would make it emissions exempt in California.

[rich weyand]

Yeah, I think it depends on how it was equipped when new. No vent line means vented cap.

Of course you can check it by driving it till it stops, then open the gas cap. Sucking sound, then runs fine means no vent line.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

... No vent line means vented cap.

Of course you can check it by driving it till it stops, then open the gas cap. Sucking sound, then runs fine means no vent line.

When I got to the gas station when it stalled out on me, I did open the gas cap and there was no sucking sound. So I did this test without even know it.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

When I got to the gas station when it stalled out on me, I did open the gas cap and there was no sucking sound. So I did this test without even know it.

Not venting then. Huh.

[rusty76]

I feel for sure we are looking at a venting issue. It makes some what sense in what he is saying is happening with his truck. Hopefully we will find out.

[Gregski]

thank you all for helping me with the fuel issue

my tank has a vent that goes to the filler neck and then two hoses run to the engine bay one for fuel the other for evap to the charcoal canister

let me give you some updates

today I plugged that bolt hole that was leaking oil, I am sure I caused this issue when I deleted the A.I.R. pump as it looks like the bracket was attached to those holes, so I took one of the original bolts, cleaned it, put a little RTV on the threads and screwed it in

here's a pic of the Air Pump bracket

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thank you all for helping me with the fuel issue

my tank has a vent that goes to the filler neck and then two hoses run to the engine bay one for fuel the other for evap to the charcoal canister....

The vent in the filler neck is to allow air to get around the inrush of gasoline from the pump. This does not vent the tank, because it is connected to the filler neck below the cap, not to the outside.

The vent to the evap canister should be venting your tank. I am surprised though that you have no return line from the fuel pump. I have supply line and return line, but no vent line.

You should do the check I mentioned above. Drive it till it dies, then open the gas cap and see if there is a vacuum in the tank. This will cause fuel starvation as you are apparently experiencing. If there is vacuum in the tank, you need to figure out why the vent line through the evap canister is not working.

If there is vacuum in the tank, the short term fix to make it drivable while you work out the problem is to drill the gas cap. If you are subject to CA emissions, that will need to be replaced before your next check. Otherwise you may just treat it as a permanent fix.

[Gregski]

I decided to get started on the brakes since I didn't want to trouble shoot a truck that won't run when it also may not wanna stop

so this is the situation the darn brake master cylinder looks like this after a short drive, all wet

[Gregski]

so time to remove the brake master cylinder

I just had to take a peak inside, since part of me considered rebuilding it myself, like my daddy and I used to do back in the 80s when parts were fixable not replaceable

I was able to remove the first valve but I do not have needle nose pliers or the special pliers to get the other snap ring out which is half way down the cylinder

[Gregski]

there is nothing wrong with the power booster other than being ugly, so it had to come out for some beautification

the brake power booster is attached to the firewall with 6 studs, 4 are easy to get to, 2 are not

the top 2 or easy

the middle 2 suck

the bottom 2 are easy

[Gregski]

brake power booster removed

that perished black rubber gasket / grommet is a concern of mine

[Gregski]

lets clean this thing so we can paint it flat black

... there that's a bit better

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

lets clean this thing so we can paint it flat black

... there that's a bit better

A small warning about painting the booster. In no time the paint will be off it in areas due to the normal brake fluid seepage. That is why they were never painted. You might try something epoxy based.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

A small warning about painting the booster. In no time the paint will be off it in areas due to the normal brake fluid seepage. That is why they were never painted. You might try something epoxy based.

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo~!

This dude has a black one: Engine compartment transformed in 12 days

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

A small warning about painting the booster. In no time the paint will be off it in areas due to the normal brake fluid seepage. That is why they were never painted. You might try something epoxy based.

Well Goooood Morning to me Rusty!

Why you dirty rabbit!

[Gregski]

ok, with the brake power booster off, tomorrow we will clean up this wiring mess and the fire wall may even get some touch up paint, even that baby powder will be gone, hee hee

[Gregski]

take a look at the brakes is one of the things I always do when I buy a new used vehicle, so 8 months ago I checked Rusty's well 3 out of 4 as I couldn't get the driver side rear drum off

now I told myself I'll get around to it real quick and since the other side looked decent I wasn't in a rush

well 8 months flew by and it was time to get that drum off, first I warmed up by getting the passenger side drum off, it came off easy with my hands

[Gregski]

then it was time to get creative with not one but two pullers co-mingled together to make a super puller to git that stubborn drum off

now when you do this, be careful you don't have to twist like you re raising the Titanic, just put some pressure on the puller and tap the drum with yer hammer, she will pop and eventually let go

a bit of lubrication don't hurt none either

the bigger 3 arm puller is an 8" from Harbor Freight, costs about $18 bucks, it has some extensions from a smaller 2 arm puller not shown

[Gregski]

so here is that driver side rear brake EXPOSED, what were you trying to hide Rusty? Hmmm