Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Advanced Design]

Yes, you want matching angles on both ends of the drive shaft with the truck weight on the rear springs.

[Coupeguy2001]

Dan,
you are just going to have to put the thing together and see what you get.
I used my front wedges to align the rear axle to point at the trans, and the trans points at the rear end. it's about the same angle.
Before I adjusted the angle, the thing pointed skyward.
I added No Limit traction bars.
With the NO Limit traction bars, you can preload the rear so the springs do not wrap up, so the rear yoke does not "climb" the frame. totally tuneable.
Also makes the thing turn better as well.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Been out of town on vacation and I'm back now.

Thinking it over I'm gonna load my cab into my dually and take it to a painter for an estimate. My brother in law has used the guy in restoring several VW's and the work seems fine for what I'm looking for - truly nice, but not "show".

I'm thinking it'll get the body parts out of my way and "while I'm in there" (yes, another) I may bite the bullet and have paint and body work done before I reassemble with the new IFS and rear end flip. It'll be costly but I KNOW I'll be happy to have my truck "done" - to the degree any of these are ever truly done. Thoughts and opinions appreciated as usual.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Got out in the driveway after work last night - man, it was HOT!!! after spending all day in air conditioning.

I mixed up a 50-50 solution of heavy duty degreaser & water and went at the rear of the frame with a stiff bristle brush. It hardly touched the 60 year old grease.

Next, I got on it with a thin blade paint scraper and found that about where the rear end rides there was a very thin layer of grease/dirt adhering strongly to the inside of the C channel. I could get it 90% off but it's tough. On the front leaf spring attachment points some of the grease on their was hardened nearly into concrete. Worked and worked at that and eventually got all of it off the outside. Up inside them the grease was very stiff but not hardened.

I've got helpers coming Sunday to lift the cab off. We'll put it in the bed of my dually and I'll take it to a blaster and (hopefully) painting with an epoxy primer.

Then I may drop back and punt. Meaning just go ahead with the frame mods and after I'll consider taking it to the blaster too. It's another "while-I'm-in-there/slipper-slope" cost but the entire thing is down to the frame, I want it clean and well painted!

[ChuckDriver]

You are right Dan, it's a slippery slope for sure, Sounds like you are doing some great work, lets see some pic's when you get a chance!

[Coupeguy2001]

Dan,
When these trucks were new, they dipped the frames in wax to keep the frames from corroding.
Over the years, the wax hardens and softens with use and heating and cooling. The wax gets dirt and grease in it, and tends to "toughen up" with all the contaminants in it.
If you get it all scraped off, you need to paint it with por 15 to re-establish your corrosion barrier, or paint it with some other really tough paint.

Painting the cab can get expensive, as the door work comes into play. Check your door fitment now, and check at the shop. Be sure to lay some old carpet or something down onto the two by fours that you put down to set the cab on the trailer.
when you put the cab on the trailer, you want the cab to sit on the cab mounts, not on the sheet metal as that can cause distortion of the rocker panels if the cab shifts on the trailer far enough.
It would be wise to bolt the two by fours together vertically and then again use a couple more to strengthen the sides of the 2X4 stack.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so here she is stripped to the frame. Obviously there a re some lines and stuff that need to come off but for all intents it's a full frame off job now!


And here's the cab. I'm into it neck deep now guys. Hopefully progress is steady if not the fastest. I still have a full time job. The 4x4 blocks you see weren't yet in their final position. That was done after this photo.


Wish me luck, I'll need it to keep my head above water and not let myself stagnate...

[Stepside Jim]

Looks like you're moving forward.

At this time I usually use the word "Commit", you're too far now to turn back.

Savor every victory along the way, Jim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Boy, am I ever committed. I'm so committed I should BE committed!

[oldman3]

Hope everything goes your way with the work. We'll try and keep you moving along...Jim

[Kim57]

Nice progress.
A lot of work but well worth it.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kim57

Nice progress.
A lot of work but well worth it.
Kim

Feels like I'm.... c r a w l i n g.... on progress.

My OCD tendencies keeps me wanting to wire wheel the frame clean when really the priority is:
- Get the IFS cross member fitted and the R& P notch located.
- Cut the old leaf spring pads off the rear end/grind the axle tubes smooth
- Buy new pads off so I'll be ready it's time to refit the rear end.

If I can get the suspension squared away, tacked and ready for my welder buddy to finish it, I'll feel I'm making progress. At the same time I want to send the body off for blasting and epoxy primer which will get stuff out of my way physically and I'll be making parallel on the body/cosmetics.

All this plus I'm out of town for a few days for our granddaughter's 1st birthday and a week's vacation in about a month. I just keep telling myself to spend an hour or two outside every night after work. Chip away bit at a time with the ballgame on and a cool beverage in hand.

[Russell Ashley]

Dan, think of it like ham and eggs: The chicken was involved but the hog was committed. You are now the hog in this project, LOL.

I'll be following along as you "gitter done".

[Dan in Pasadena]

Just updating thread for my later reference:

Taking Friday off to rent a flatbed (damn, cab won't QUITE fit in my dually bed!) to load cab and take to blaster. Since I have not yet blown apart my bed into component pieces or the front clip either those WILL go in pieces to the blaster later. Give me time to set up my compressor and buy primer.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Oh and PS: "Recommended Epoxy Primer Brands for an Idiot's Use" will be appreciated.

[Kim57]

SPI epoxy is easy to use.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kim57

SPI epoxy is easy to use.

...for idiots!

Thanks Kim!

This has to be ordered online only, right?

What solvent or catalyst, etc do I want to order. What mixing cups, etc? As I've said, I know SQUAT about spraying automotive paints.

[Kim57]

I can spray it with no problems and it sands real nice.
Of course I have no experience with anything else.
Here's some info on it.
http://media.wix.com/ugd/8ced3e_1e5c...ee9f969705.pdf
And here's their pricing page. It runs right around $200.00 for two spray-able gallons (mixes 1to1).
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!pricing/c20uv
Only took a few days to get it when I ordered mine.
They also have wax/grease remover.
I just use the plastic graduated cups from Home Depot to mix it.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Took half the day to remove the remaining "stuff" and there was a lot more than I thought. Wiring, ventilation cables and doors, wiper motor and arms, cowl grill, instrument cluster, mirror, visors, gas filler tubes, yada, yada.

I barely got the trailer and got it to the blaster before hey closed by less than five minutes! They were very cool about it though. Unloaded it in one minute but it took me 30 minutes to get it loaded and tied down. Plus I damaged the rockers as you'll see below, but oh well.



I stopped counting after literally more than 50!! holes in the firewall. Tempted to just cover them with the fiberglass cover No Limit sells but I really like the look of the factory embossed firewall but clean, with NOTHING on it, or as near as I can get it on a driver truck.


A bonus, Daleo56 (Tim) happened to be driving home from his shop and drove by the blaster right as they were unloading my cab. He was in his restored '60(I'm guessing) "Big Bird" Thunderbird. Very cool. He stopped and we talked a couple minutes. His referral is what got me to use his blaster and he speaks highly of them. Thanks Tim!

Damaged the rockers (yes, both sides) when we didn't realize the ratchet strap lifting the cab via the cherry picker was under the cherry picker'so legs instead of on top of them. We started lifting and realized this too late, damn.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Kim57

I can spray it with no problems and it sands real nice.
Of course I have no experience with anything else.
Here's some info on it.
http://media.wix.com/ugd/8ced3e_1e5c...ee9f969705.pdf
And here's their pricing page. It runs right around $200.00 for two spray-able gallons (mixes 1to1).
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!pricing/c20uv
Only took a few days to get it when I ordered mine.
They also have wax/grease remover.
I just use the plastic graduated cups from Home Depot to mix it.
Kim

Thanks for the info Kim!
"Induction" means let the primer sit after mixing the reducer into it? It won't "go off" or flash like a catylized product, right?

It says to apply over an 80 grit DA surface. The blaster told me the metal will be about like a 220 grit sanding so that means I've got to sand the bare metal to get this level of "tooth"?

Are you saying I should buy two gallons to prime the entire truck? The bed and front clip will be disassembled into pieces including the inner fenders and bed cross braces, etc. Did you use both the 700-1 and 710-1 cleaning stuff? I'm wondering why you need BOTH the water based and the solvent based wax & grease remover? But if I do then I do I suppose. Sorry for all the questions!

[Kim57]

A gallon of primer and a gallon of catalyst will make two gallons of product.
I was able to spray everything with that and have some to respray most of the cab after doing body work and sanding a good amount off. It wont go off in the mixing cup for a long time and if it is sealed I believe it can last over night. After it induces for 30 minutes you need to stir it again before spraying.
I use a 1.4 cheapo gun and clean it real well with lacquer thinner when done.
I only used the 700-1 cleaner.
I would talk to the techs at SPI as far as spraying on a sand blasted cab. It may have enough bite to be O.K. for priming.
Hope this helps.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, great.

Now here's a newbie question if there ever was one:
- If I'm painting the entire cab, how many times will I likely fill the HVLP spray gun cup? I haven't a clue!
- You mix up all you'll need for the entire cab at once, I assume? Cover the mixed paint til you need to refill your cup?
- If you run short is there time to mix up more and allow the "induction" time without having to clean the gun?

PS: any reason to use one color primer vs. another? My truck will likely be red or green so I assume any of the colors offered would be fine? Obviously, don't use black under white etc. if I want to assemble and run the truck in epoxy primer can you tint their white? Will it stand up to UV?

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok, great.

Now here's a newbie question if there ever was one:
- If I'm painting the entire cab, how many times will I likely fill the HVLP spray gun cup? I haven't a clue!
I mix so that I have 24oz of product to spray. Put about half in my spray gun cup and spray until its empty. Wait 30 minutes and then re-coat everything again.

- You mix up all you'll need for the entire cab at once, I assume? Cover the mixed paint til you need to refill your cup?
- If you run short is there time to mix up more and allow the "induction" time without having to clean the gun?
If I need to mix another batch I will run a couple ounces of lacquer thinner through my gun just so it doesn't clog and then mix a new batch to spray.

PS: any reason to use one color primer vs. another? My truck will likely be red or green so I assume any of the colors offered would be fine? Obviously, don't use black under white etc. if I want to assemble and run the truck in epoxy primer can you tint their white? Will it stand up to UV?
Color is just personal preference. I used the grey.
I think their black may be U.V. safe.
Not sure about tinting the white.

Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks so much, Kim!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok, so little update:

Picked up the cab from the Sandblaster this afternoon and all in all I'm impressed there's so little rust, relatively speaking.

Here's the overall look:


And of course the firewall looks like Swiss cheese. I stopped counting after FIFTY holes!


Someone "repaired" the cab corner rust back in the 60's or 70's with an oxy acetylene torch. Maybe (?) that was a decent repair back then in the days before repop sheet metal. There was probably 1/4" to 3/8" of filler on top of it.


The other side wasn't quite as large: