S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

bump

[Father&son56project]

Originally Posted by skymangs

bump

When the "S10 Swap How To" was a sticky, it received an absolute ton of input and views (4th most popular topic according to the view counter). Now it's months between posts, despite the fact that there are many of these swaps going on. I rather enjoyed following it just to see how members were tackling problems on this particular swap. It was also a quick way for newbies to discover this particular wealth of information. To be fair, whenever I ask something in this thread I still get great responses from you and other knowledgeable members. I just miss watching the swap related problem solving of other builders.

[skymangs]

yes, me too. For years this thread was going strong. I’m still doing S10 swaps for customers, in fact I’m doing one right now... https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=824854 if you’re interested

[8man]

I know I learned a LOT from this thread. Enough that I eventually started a thread of the build I am doing with help from this thread and site and all the good people who help out!

[skymangs]

well I’m glad it served it’s purpose

[lgh1157]

I still reference this thread often, its great. . . .

I have a question:
Why move the steering column over to the left ? ( other than centering it in the gauges ) is there another reason other than the gauges ? ?

I mocked up my column today using the upper stock mount and the lower column firewall hole and it seemed great where the stock location is

Thx !

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by lgh1157

I still reference this thread often, its great. . . .

I have a question:
Why move the steering column over to the left ? ( other than centering it in the gauges ) is there another reason other than the gauges ? ?

I mocked up my column today using the upper stock mount and the lower column firewall hole and it seemed great where the stock location is

Thx !

do you have the motor in? your question may be answered by looking at where the steering shaft needs to run. in my trucks moving it over that small amount was the difference between a $200 steering hookup and a $400 steeing hookup with heim and extra joints. I also mount my engine to the passenger side slightly as well

[lgh1157]

Originally Posted by joedoh

do you have the motor in? your question may be answered by looking at where the steering shaft needs to run. in my trucks moving it over that small amount was the difference between a $200 steering hookup and a $400 steeing hookup with heim and extra joints. I also mount my engine to the passenger side slightly as well

Hey
Thanks for the quick repsonse
I do have the engine in, headers on, booster and brake pedal in
If i move the column to the left i think i would have a tighter clearance through the headers

It would seems dropping the column slightly may help with the connection

Here are some pics :

[lgh1157]

Pics attached

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by lgh1157

Hey
Thanks for the quick repsonse
I do have the engine in, headers on, booster and brake pedal in
If i move the column to the left i think i would have a tighter clearance through the headers

It would seems dropping the column slightly may help with the connection

Here are some pics :

there is your answer, do what fits! no "tab a in slot b" universal advice on this swap haha.

[lgh1157]

Originally Posted by joedoh

there is your answer, do what fits! no "tab a in slot b" universal advice on this swap haha.

Yeah its a trip, i know there is so much info on these swaps and it rules, im a better person for taking this project on, its been fun,. . . . . , the one thing i will say - no one swap is the same thats for sure haha

L

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by lgh1157

no one swap is the same thats for sure haha

no kidding, i have done a bunch and none are the same. every one is better than the last though!

[lgh1157]

Originally Posted by joedoh

no kidding, i have done a bunch and none are the same. every one is better than the last though!

I peep your threads often too ! Good stuff

So just for my own knowledge - the centering of the steering wheel over the gauges is mostly an aesthetic thing ?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by lgh1157

I peep your threads often too ! Good stuff

So just for my own knowledge - the centering of the steering wheel over the gauges is mostly an aesthetic thing ?

yes. mostly. moving over slightly creates more room for a middle passenger too. I bet it was a last minute change, I wonder if they reused some 41-46 frame dimensions? because the rigid mounting of the steering column is really what determines the steering placement in the cab, if it were a last minute change they changed the dash stamping for the cutout anyway and could have just moved the gauges over? I would love to be a fly on the wall in 1946.

[mjmarinara]

Hello all, I am new here however I've been a lurker on 67-72 trucks fpr probably a decade.

I have a 00 s10 108" that I've been tinkering with for years:
6.0 ls manual c5 brakes etc, I am doing a slave cylinder currently, and while doing it have realized how badly rotted my cab is, rest of the body is starting to turn also; I've been saying for years when the time comes I am going to do a swap like this well! i reckon now is that time!

I am slowly working through this thread from the beginning but my question is:

How applicable is this fantastic information to 41-46's, does anyone have threads not ruined by pictures no longer being available?

I have a rust free '42 cab and front clip and i much prefer those trucks to the AD (no offense!)

I understand they are different in most dimensions, wondering if there are any threads like this on the web more focused on the art deco trucks, or if somewhere in these 40 something pages there is any gems? thanks all in advance!

[OutlawDrifter]

johdoh has done some pre-war pickups, and I believe he has mounts made up.

[joedoh]

I am working on the 41-46 kit now, here is the protopye truck in process. the frame will need notched in the corners,

almost nothing in this thread applies to the prewars. I should have mine TRL8 (ready to shoot holes in it) this week though, so I will update as I go.

[dsraven]

1157, have you thought about some cast manifolds so you don't have to run a steering shaft through the header pipes? thats gonna be hot and may cook the lube out of the u joints not to mention what happens if a motor mount lets go on a burn out or a header gets baahed or whatever.

[joedoh]

I sell a laser cut mount kit in as little or as much as you want. cab mounts only? sure. full 26 pc kit including bumpers? sure. giving the vendor membership a shot on here. Forum members get a $20 discount!

check out

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=832482

[Rickysnickers]

Thank you for stepping up to Gold Vendor status! I hope you sell many!

[oldman3]

Russ, great looking parts, if I ever do an S-10 conversion, I will get this from you...Jim

[joedoh]

thanks jim!

[Father&son56project]

Can anyone advise what type of master cylinder is used on a stock 1996 S10 (power brakes-front disk, rear drums)? I have had an issue with the brake pedal slowly sinking and after numerous bleeds of the system with no improvement I am going to install a new master cylinder. The issue is the bleeding technique. The instructions from the manufacturer (Cardone) have very specific instructions about “How to bleed a step bore master cylinder”, however these instructions come with ALL of their master cylinders, so they only apply to those models of the step bore design. The problem is that I have no idea if this new master cylinder is a step bore or a conventional design. I spent a good 2 hours consulting the Great Google Oracle and got zippo for my efforts. I want to get this right (I’m sick of bleeding this system!), so can anyone advise what type of master cylinder I have?

[joedoh]

i gravity bleed the fronts and pressure bleed the rear with the "tube in a jar of fluid" method. make sure you watch the fluid level carefully or you will start over.

most of my problem low pedal pressure is fixed with bleeding the rears, which is why opening the bleeder and pumping the pedal hard works so well, even in new lines and new master I will get flecks in the fluid from somewhere.

and I know you know this, but for other readers remember the FRONT bore (closest to the grille) is the REAR brakes on an S10 master, and most GM masters of the era, and the REAR bore (closest to the firewall) is the FRONT brakes. I had a guy with soft pedal listen to this fact and tell me the front was the front because the line size was bigger....

[dsraven]

not positive but I think all the S10's had low drag brake calipers so they would have had the step bore master cylinders. if you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing on the truck it will be a quicker operation. have you installed the master, attempted to bleed it and think you may have air in the system? did you take the abs system along for the ride? if so, the abs system may have air in it and will require the abs valves to be open in the unit for the bleeding to done. that requires a scan tool I believe.
here is a link on a quick way to bench bleed a step bore. you need a syringe.
https://www.buyautoparts.com/blog/ho...ster-cylinder/