Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

there is nothing wrong with the power booster other than being ugly, so it had to come out for some beautification

the brake power booster is attached to the firewall with 6 studs, 4 are easy to get to, 2 are not

the top 2 or easy

the middle 2 suck

the bottom 2 are easy

[Gregski]

brake power booster removed

that perished black rubber gasket / grommet is a concern of mine

[Gregski]

lets clean this thing so we can paint it flat black

... there that's a bit better

[Gregski]

ok, with the brake power booster off, tomorrow we will clean up this wiring mess and the fire wall may even get some touch up paint, even that baby powder will be gone, hee hee

[Gregski]

take a look at the brakes is one of the things I always do when I buy a new used vehicle, so 8 months ago I checked Rusty's well 3 out of 4 as I couldn't get the driver side rear drum off

now I told myself I'll get around to it real quick and since the other side looked decent I wasn't in a rush

well 8 months flew by and it was time to get that drum off, first I warmed up by getting the passenger side drum off, it came off easy with my hands

[Gregski]

then it was time to get creative with not one but two pullers co-mingled together to make a super puller to git that stubborn drum off

now when you do this, be careful you don't have to twist like you re raising the Titanic, just put some pressure on the puller and tap the drum with yer hammer, she will pop and eventually let go

a bit of lubrication don't hurt none either

the bigger 3 arm puller is an 8" from Harbor Freight, costs about $18 bucks, it has some extensions from a smaller 2 arm puller not shown

[Gregski]

so here is that driver side rear brake EXPOSED, what were you trying to hide Rusty? Hmmm

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

lets clean this thing so we can paint it flat black

... there that's a bit better

A small warning about painting the booster. In no time the paint will be off it in areas due to the normal brake fluid seepage. That is why they were never painted. You might try something epoxy based.

[Gregski]

alright while the paint on that power booster is drying lets take a look at the new replacement master cylinder

bigger front disk brake chamber in the front the way it was meant to be on the new one

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Titomars

A small warning about painting the booster. In no time the paint will be off it in areas due to the normal brake fluid seepage. That is why they were never painted. You might try something epoxy based.

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo~!

This dude has a black one: Engine compartment transformed in 12 days

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

thank you all for helping me with the fuel issue

my tank has a vent that goes to the filler neck and then two hoses run to the engine bay one for fuel the other for evap to the charcoal canister....

The vent in the filler neck is to allow air to get around the inrush of gasoline from the pump. This does not vent the tank, because it is connected to the filler neck below the cap, not to the outside.

The vent to the evap canister should be venting your tank. I am surprised though that you have no return line from the fuel pump. I have supply line and return line, but no vent line.

You should do the check I mentioned above. Drive it till it dies, then open the gas cap and see if there is a vacuum in the tank. This will cause fuel starvation as you are apparently experiencing. If there is vacuum in the tank, you need to figure out why the vent line through the evap canister is not working.

If there is vacuum in the tank, the short term fix to make it drivable while you work out the problem is to drill the gas cap. If you are subject to CA emissions, that will need to be replaced before your next check. Otherwise you may just treat it as a permanent fix.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

alright while the paint on that power booster is drying lets take a look at the new replacement master cylinder

bigger front disk brake chamber in the front the way it was meant to be on the new one

That looks like the same one that has been on mine the last four years. The older one was smaller, as your older one is, but I don't recall which order the two reservoirs were in.

Oh, and I painted my master cylinder black with Rustoleum Gloss Black three years ago after the bare metal unit started to show surface rust within a year. Paint condition is still fine despite the inevitable spills when topping off.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Oh, and I painted my master cylinder black with Rustoleum Gloss Black three years ago after the bare metal unit started to show surface rust within a year. Paint condition is still fine despite the inevitable spills when topping off.

Humm maybe that's the secret, Rustoleum. I just don't have the patients to wait days for that stuff to dry. Unfortunately my vehicle has to run. It can't sit around torn down for days, weeks, months. I generally plan my work out for 1 1/4 days on the weekend. if the job takes more than that I have to plan vacation time to cover completing the job.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

... No vent line means vented cap.

Of course you can check it by driving it till it stops, then open the gas cap. Sucking sound, then runs fine means no vent line.

When I got to the gas station when it stalled out on me, I did open the gas cap and there was no sucking sound. So I did this test without even know it.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Titomars

Humm maybe that's the secret, Rustoleum. I just don't have the patients to wait days for that stuff to dry. Unfortunately my vehicle has to run. It can't sit around torn down for days, weeks, months. I generally plan my work out for 1 1/4 days on the weekend. if the job takes more than that I have to plan vacation time to cover completing the job.

Mine's a daily driver, too. I just brush-painted it in place and let it dry on its own time. Done.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

When I got to the gas station when it stalled out on me, I did open the gas cap and there was no sucking sound. So I did this test without even know it.

Not venting then. Huh.

[greg64]

So where are the rear brakes leaking from?

About painting master cylinders, I don't have much luck. The fluid eventually takes the paint off. I've even thought about starting over with new everything so I can switch to DOT5, which is silicone based and doesn't eat paint.

[Gregski]

cleaned the drums and this might have been an even dumber idea than painting the power booster, here is one side before it flash rusted

[Gregski]

and here is the other side, not even 10 minutes later, I did spray em with WD40 to keep the rust at bay but they didn't stand a chance

[Gregski]

and side by side before the second drum flash rusted

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by greg64

So where are the rear brakes leaking from?

About painting master cylinders, I don't have much luck. The fluid eventually takes the paint off. I've even thought about starting over with new everything so I can switch to DOT5, which is silicone based and doesn't eat paint.

Eventually that is the direction I will go. Right now my brake system works perfectly.

[rich weyand]

I have see-through wheels, so I painted the outside of the drums.

[cnorth]

Originally Posted by Gregski

yes but you will have to cut one of the white plastic pieces with a box cutter to get it to slip over one of the ball joints, that's what I had to do, the other way to go is to buy the black ones

I did not see any in black but i will look again

The new air cleaner looks good by the way

[77K10Silverado]

Powder coated my drums. Done!

[Gregski]

prepped the fire wall a little bit before mounting the brake booster back on