'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[chevy2racr]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Thanks Zumo. Should make for a fun commute. Maybe we'll have to do a rendering when its done
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isn't a rendering supposed to be for BEFORE you build it?

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Very ambitious project! More than im willing to tackle!

Yeh, sometimes the eyes are bigger than the stomach

Originally Posted by chevy2racr

isn't a rendering supposed to be for BEFORE you build it?

That would be the "normal" order of events, yes

[y5mgisi]

Very ambitious project! More than im willing to tackle!

[Frizzle Fry]

We left off with the rear painted. So lets do a before and after:
Before-




After-




Moved on to the brake lines:
Starting with the rear-


Picked up a double flare tool for the project-








MC's on down (camera is goin south)-


Front line to T-


First (and only) T in front circuit ...and across to the pass-side (avoiding exhaust)-

DS Front-

[spudz]

Very clean. Where did you get the coil the goes over the brake lines like the factory use?

[Frizzle Fry]

Thanks. I stole them from some lines on a C5 Vette chassis. But I know inline tube carries them.
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[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Thanks. I stole them from some lines on a C5 Vette chassis. But I know inline tube carries them.

Napa sells different lengths of straight brake lines with the armor cable on them.

[watahyahknow]

thanks for the tip , they have stainless brakelines too

[Frizzle Fry]

Yes they do. I'd probably use it on a street rod type build. The poly-armor lines are sweet though. So easy to work with.
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[mcbassin]

Rear Diff and brake lines look great! You are the man.

[68 Four on the Floor]

You are way more ambitious than I ever will be

[Jvsapp]

damn FF, how do you bend your lines so clean? what benders are you using? Also no combination valve? or is that the adjustable one you ordered? i thought they had individual lines for the left and right front wheels? i'm looking for some fittings to do a 90 on my nova. any ideas where i could get some?

now you have me thinking i want to POR15 my nova's rearend. i was just going to hit it with rustoleum but now i'm sold! POR15 it is...

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Rear Diff and brake lines look great! You are the man.

Originally Posted by 68 Four on the Floor

You are way more ambitious than I ever will be

If I had known it would take 3yrs I'm not sure I would have been so ambitious

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

damn FF, how do you bend your lines so clean? what benders are you using? Also no combination valve? or is that the adjustable one you ordered? i thought they had individual lines for the left and right front wheels? i'm looking for some fittings to do a 90 on my nova. any ideas where i could get some?

now you have me thinking i want to POR15 my nova's rearend. i was just going to hit it with rustoleum but now i'm sold! POR15 it is...

Brake lines:

AGS Poly-Armour Comparison - YouTube

I have a no name 180* bender. But for some of the bends I just did it by hand as shown in the vid.

I have an adjustable prop valve installed (will post pics). It's mounted for on-the-fly accessibility.

Looking for something like this?
http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...bow_p/3502.htm
The S2000 MC has front and rear circuits that are split out to left and right by the ABS unit that I have deleted.

[Jvsapp]

ahh that AGS i can get from checker..... i've actually used it and it bends nicely. i guess that's what i'll be using on my nova when i do the front brakes.

thanks for the link for the fittings! i guess i'll be looking for some that i can clip in now.

[Frizzle Fry]

Yep, I jump around a bit... I had the front Xmember in for checking brake line routing:


So while it was in, there was something that needed to be completed ...the shortening the front sway bar brackets. So in maintaining the theme of modifying (nearly) every part of the this car:
We'll start with the original bracket shot-


New bolt holes raised 1"


Remove blind-nuts:


Clean-up:


Welded the nuts back on 1" higher and...
Why I felt the need to raise the bar (see right orig vs. left raised)


Side shot of modded bracket ("gusset" also clearanced) Yes the mount plate is still just tacked in...


x2 (those scraps actually came from what is the top in this pic)

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Why I felt the need to raise the bar (see right orig vs. left raised)

dang FF! yet again look so clean! BTW do you buy POR15 by the case? i see the box sitting there on the floor!

[Frizzle Fry]

Clutch line and rear brakes to prop valve (clutch will have a bracket for the flex line)


Zoom on prop valve (inside shot disappeared in the shuffle... it's next to the ebrake)

[Frizzle Fry]

Hah, no. That's a fuel tank sealer kit
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[thor]

Nice work FF! I was curious how you like the Rigid flaring tool? I have one I bought from Sears and it does not grip the tube tight enough for flaring. When I turn the handle to plunge the flaring tip, the tube gets pushed out.

And if ya find it, a pic from the inside of the car of the adjustable proportioning valve would be cool.

[Frizzle Fry]

You're right, on the 3/16 tube I have to tighten it down ultra f'n tight using a cheater handle! Seems like it may be due to the fact that the 3/16 slot is the only one that's smooth/no ridges. I was considering removing a tiny bit of material from the inside surface of the jaws. But so far it's working with the cheater bar. Just hope I don't break it... I'll take another pic of the prop valve tonight.
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[watahyahknow]

when you remove some material you dont have to tighten it so mush , i think its the better solution it keeps the device intact and doesnt ruin the tread over time

it prolly be hardened material though

[Frizzle Fry]

I took a little off the inside surface of one of the jaws on the disc sander. Might be a little better. I'll do the other side next (we're talkin thou's at a time).

And now this-
Prop valve location:







The diff brake line plan hit a snag... I put the rear back in place to locate the hard-line/flex line bracket and found some clearance issues. So I ran them in a more conventional route. Still made sure they stay below the top of the pumpkin since it will be coming close to the trunk floor under compression.

Here's a shot of the rear-end in place:


Flex line bracket locating:




New hard-line set up on rear.
A little trick for locating a bend:


These have American on one end and Metric on the other


Other side:

[thor]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I took a little off the inside surface of one of the jaws on the disc sander. Might be a little better. I'll do the other side next (we're talkin thou's at a time).

I'll give this a try. Thanks for the tip!

[spudz]

This same kit is a essential tool that was sent to our dealership. Its the best flaring tool I have ever used, its expensive but worth it in my opinion... You can find it cheaper but it has less stuff in the kit usually. just search ebay for hyraulic flaring tool and you can get the same kit for way less. I even seen a kit that just does the brake lines and it was only $60 http://www.classictube.com/shop-onli...tegory_id=1866

[dammitmitchell]

i hate you so much right now... in a envious little brother sorta way.

every damn time i bend brake lines it looks like a two year old drew the layout in crayons..
i can never ever ever ever find a good bender when im doing lines.. and im allllllwwwwaaaayyyysss tweaking..

im jealous.. i no like you right now because it's so pretttttyy