Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Dan,
I removed everything from my firewall except the hinge holes. I also filled the dimmer switch hole, moved it inside the cab, higher up on the floor, using a factory bead in the floor to center it on so the wiring lays in it.

Ah, excellent idea. Why higher up? Just to align with this factory bead?

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

I also used the elevator bolts to replace the holes that the factory firewall cover was mounted with the push through fasteners.

Hmmm, hadn't considered this. Not to be dumb but is the factory firewall cover even necessary if I apply Dynamat or Peel 'N Seal? I plan to carpet over that of course.

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Don't remember where I saw it but have seen the stock e-brake handle used with a Lokar cable.

Man, your memory is worse than mine. You can't remember this OR where you got your old rear leaf spring relocation kit? (Kidding!)

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

You should also reworked the hole for the steering column while you're at it!

I will if necessary but WHY is it necessary? I don't know the final position of my column because I'm actually doing the cosmetic work before all the mechanical work is finalized. Yes, I know that's bass awkward. But the new ididit column is bound to go in the same "line" the factory one went through, right? I knew I'd have to make closure plates for around it, but again that will be covered with carpet. So why is reworking it necessary?

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Good luck!

Thanks JJ, means a lot coming from all you guys. Most people think guys like us have a slight mental problem. Nice to know there are guys who share my affliction and even appreciate it! Ha ha ha.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

1. Bolt below the hood hinge. I just had a hole there and filled it, haven't run into anything that bolts there.

This seems to be the consensus, I'll just fill the holes.

Originally Posted by OrrieG

2. I used a different ebrake set up so filled that one too.
3. I replaced the two square nuts, and any other bolts required to hold stuff on the inside (I think they are for the dash support above the column) with elevator bolts (see photo below) welded to the cab side of the fire wall.

Can you tell me the size & thread of the elevator bolts, if you recall? So with the dash supports still in place I can simply substitute the elevator bolt for the existing bolts, THEN tack the edges of the flat head onto the firewall sheet metal and hack off the square nuts on the engine side?

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I only kept the throttle hole, hinge battery tray and stock fire wall ground bolt, welded up the other 43 holes (1/8 - 1.5 diameter). I kept the factory ridges, did not want the total smooth look.

Hmmm, where is the "stock fire wall ground bolt"? I'm planning to frame mount my battery. My throttle had three holes, well actually six because someone re-mounted it over 1/2" at some point. A hole for the rod and two bolt holes. He's fling them now and my throttle cable will come out of the cab lower then the firewall indent - I hope!

[ChuckDriver]

I think the "stock firewall ground bolt" is a nut welded to the floor on the inside to the right of the trans tunnel on the toe board.

I used it to ground the frame to cab and cab to engine.

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks Kim!

Whatcha doing up at 4am? Lol

I'm in Bulgaria and there is a ten hour time difference.
Looking forward to getting back home.
Firewall is coming along nicely.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ah....Bulgaria.....a veritable hotbed of classic truck restorations,

Take care Kim, come back safely. and don't fly Malaysia Airlines (too soon?)

[bowt1ed]

Dan,
Not sure if I remember what that hole was for, but I closed mine. Besides the hinge and battery bracket holes, and of course steering column, I closed them all (74, I think...). I will cut for a new firewall mounted booster/cylinder, so not worried about the two brace capture nuts right now. Here is what mine is like now. Haven't wiped or primed yet. Like many, wanted to leave the character lines of the firewall without all the holes. Cheers, Jim

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ah....Bulgaria.....a veritable hotbed of classic truck restorations,

Take care Kim, come back safely. and don't fly Malaysia Airlines (too soon?)

We're flying Turkish Air.
Leave Saturday for home.
Kim

[Russell Ashley]

"Don't remember where I saw it but have seen the stock e-brake handle used with a Lokar cable."
Might have been mine. I'm using my stock handle with Control Cable cables from front to back. I removed all of the original e-brake hardware, or at least what was left of it. The cables make a neater arrangement I think.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

"Don't remember where I saw it but have seen the stock e-brake handle used with a Lokar cable."
Might have been mine. I'm using my stock handle with Control Cable cables from front to back. I removed all of the original e-brake hardware, or at least what was left of it. The cables make a neater arrangement I think.

Russ,
Thanks. Any photos? Part numbers and how you adapted cables to the OEM handle and the routing you used?
.

[Kim57]

Looking good.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

A little update. Stopped by body shop and saw that they were sanding some filler applied to the firewall hole patches:


Also noticed they'd welded in and planished the repair metal for the gas filler hole I provided to them:


Everything looking good so far. I'm going to be out of town next week so new photos will be a couple weeks in coming.

[Kim57]

Looks like they're making good progress.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yup, thanks Kim. I'm pleased.

There were two guys hand sanding the firewall when I got there. They stepped out of the way for the picture but got right back to it. Painter said he would re-primer it as soon as they got the sanding done.

[rgunlock]

Good to see that they are doing a fine job for you Dan!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hmm, just posted a response and it disappeared into the ether, I guess!

Opinions please!

Painter told me he planned to spray the cab floor/firewall with a textured bedliner/noise reducer type product and I told him not to since I intend to apply Dynamat, Peel'n Seal or some such product. Now I'm re-thinking this. Is this a subject where if "a little is good, more is better"? Or is it a waste of effort (and likely money)?
PS: I DID agree to have him spray the underside of the cab floor with this product.

[bowt1ed]

Yeah Dan, I've been giving this the same consideration (actually posted it). My current thoughts are that the spray/roll on products (Lizard, Hippo, etc.) would only make the sheet metal more solid/sturdy, all while reducing noise and heat. Interested in hearing more thoughts on it. Cheers, Jim

[ChuckDriver]

I would have the underside sprayed, then do the Dynamat on the inside.

I'll get you the column length next week!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

I would have the underside sprayed, then do the Dynamat on the inside.

I'll get you the column length next week!

Thanks JJ,
I bought a new but never installed ididit column from Craigslist and now I'm wondering if I bought too soon? I THINK it's either a 31" or 32" and I know it matters for sure if it's a '57-'59 with their dished steering wheels, but is it quite so critical with the '55-'56 flat style steering wheel?

I've already told the painter to do the underside of the cab and not the interior. My thinking was the Dynamat (or whatever product I use) will adhere better directly to the metal than on top of a coating. Of course going without potentially saves me a few bucks so that's a plus. Anyone else have an opinion or experience?

[dubie]

Just from a painters perspective Dan, I would coat the bare metal in the cab and then adhere your Dynomat. Or kill 2 birds with 1 stone and do a coating of lizard skin ti kill the sound and coat the metal

[BIGglaSS]

Epoxy is the best thing for bare metal to prevent future rust. Think of it as the glue for something else to stick to.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Epoxy is the best thing for bare metal to prevent future rust. Think of it as the glue for something else to stick to.

Already done, but thanks for the advice.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'm sitting poolside on the last day of my vacation for the year and with the clarity I only seem to get when I DON'T have the office and others distractions to think about I was thinking about the sequence of rebuilding my truck.

I've been thinking right along I need to get on the frame and start installing the IFS, C notch the rear, etc. But on reconsideration I realize the bodyshop will shortly be done to the primer level on my cab, so he'll be asking for either my doors or my bed. I need to strip the windows and mechanisms from the doors and also finish patching the speaker holes I started literally years ago and never finished! Otherwise he'll have to do it and that'll cost $$$.

Then the bed. I plan to pull the fenders off but I'm questioning if I should totally disassemble the bed? If I don't and have it blasted the edges where sides and front/rear panels come together never get cleaned - BAD.
If I leave it assembled I won't have to worry about reassembly scratches and out-of-square conditions either - GOOD, but I also want polished stainless fasteners holding it together, not painted bolts/nuts. So I guess that all adds up to blowing it apart and "while I'm at it" welding shut the holes the original owner put in to bolt on a shell and repairing one rust-through spot in the front panel bed roll. I still haven't decided whether I'm welding shut the side panel bed rolls. It seems like a "standard" thing for most of you but eh...I don't know. Opinions welcomed.

[Advanced Design]

I vote for disassembly of the bed and being thorough enough with repairs so that you will always be happy with it. And problems are less likely to crop up later after paint. Just a few more hours invested for many years of being happy with the results is a good return.

[Daze57]

i agree ^ You will be much happier in the long run if you tear it apart and get it done .

[ChuckDriver]

Originally Posted by Daze57

i agree ^ You will be much happier in the long run if you tear it apart and get it done .

I second that!