48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[Advanced Design]

So right Valarious, a step back and a different day made the difference in finding a better solution.

Lower, I don't have the equipment or gas mix to weld the 304 and I need to do a little welding in following what oldnslow did for his running board exit. He drew this up and posted on his build. I just might try to make some out of 16 gauge then have them coated. Or try a different attachment solution with the 304 stainless tips.

Buddy's ocd was kicking in he said when he decided to go with two turbo's. Just not bad enough to pay for mirror image turbo's. Here is a link from when we found the car...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=696348

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

So right Valarious, a step back and a different day made the difference in finding a better solution.

Lower, I don't have the equipment or gas mix to weld the 304 and I need to do a little welding in following what oldnslow did for his running board exit. He drew this up and posted on his build. I just might try to make some out of 16 gauge then have them coated. Or try a different attachment solution with the 304 stainless tips.

Buddy's ocd was kicking in he said when he decided to go with two turbo's. Just not bad enough to pay for mirror image turbo's. Here is a link from when we found the car...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=696348

Not to discredit at all how old n slow did this but for the sake of discussion I did not build a heat shield and mine only has approx. 3/8" clearance and there has been no effect to the paint from heat. I actually even cut in my openings after the running boards were painted. I don't recommend this, it was just a byproduct of my poor planning in not mocking EVERYTHING up in advance of paint.

If it helps I can dig up some pics of mine or take any that you might need.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Not to discredit at all how old n slow did this but for the sake of discussion I did not build a heat shield and mine only has approx. 3/8" clearance and there has been no effect to the paint from heat. I actually even cut in my openings after the running boards were painted. I don't recommend this, it was just a byproduct of my poor planning in not mocking EVERYTHING up in advance of paint.

If it helps I can dig up some pics of mine or take any that you might need.

Marc

Thanks Marc. Please don't bother with it as I think I have a good direction to go. Gotta say I wouldn't have thought of the flex pipes except for your and oldnslow's comments so appreciate that. Good thought on the heat shields as I likely will leave the boards as they are.

Now for more exhaust parts to show up....

Hey, are you sandbagging? Figure you will have a start video any day now.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Thanks Marc. Please don't bother with it as I think I have a good direction to go. Gotta say I wouldn't have thought of the flex pipes except for your and oldnslow's comments so appreciate that. Good thought on the heat shields as I likely will leave the boards as they are.

Now for more exhaust parts to show up....

Hey, are you sandbagging? Figure you will have a start video any day now.

Yea sandbagging that's what I'm doing. is that the same as dragging my feet? I need to sell my 01 Camaro roller to free up some cash. I have been getting my 48 back on the road. I had to rebuild the valves for my air ride. Now that it is road worthy I can get back on the 53 Burb.

Remember I always said I would come in last....that way I see it I'm right on schedule (:

Marc

[Advanced Design]

I spent a lot of time researching exhaust options and it looked like the Hooker LS swap 73 - 87 C10 downpipes would work for this application. Toddoky provided the measurements so I took a chance and ordered them.

The downpipes had a lot of sanding debris inside and needed a good cleaning.

They fit really well and should work for this Burb.

[Advanced Design]

The drive shaft came from Fast Shafts in Des Moines, IA. They also provided the differential center section for this build and our 56 Chevy. Pat, the owner, builds a lot of these for the dirt track racers and really knows his business. If you call, it is likely Pat will answer the phone and help them out.

He sent me a 3" steel shaft with 1350 joints and clear coated finish. It is a nice piece and Pat's prices are reasonable for a custom made shaft.

The last picture I pulled the snap ring out for checking the front working angle.

[99 to Life]

big ticket items getting checked off, exhaust and DS, getting close. But oh boy does interior stuff take forevvvveeeerrr. I'll have to look into those DShafts.

[Advanced Design]

I wanted to check the front u-joint working angle before I started roughing in the exhaust in case I needed to move the transmission up or down.

The way I check working angles is to use the u-joint bearing caps as they are parallel to the centerline of the transmission output shaft as well as the drive shaft.

First pic I am making sure the u-joint is straight up and down. When the digital meter gets close to zero the bearing cap is pretty close to flat of the earth. I do this every time I check the angle as shown in second picture.

Second picture this is angle of the centerline of the drive shaft 0.65 degrees.

Third picture is the angle of the centerline of the transmission output shaft 3.60 degrees.

Subtract the two measurements and you get a 2.95 degree working angle. Typically 3.0 or less is acceptable.

If you look at the transmission and drive shaft from the side and imagine their center lines connecting, that is the working angle. Think of these centerlines connecting as making a mild v (holding water) or a mild roof shape (upside down V shedding water).

The trainers / classes I had taught me we want the front working angle to shed water. In this case it is holding water. The rear of the transmission needs to come up several degrees, 3, 2, 1, 0, then 1, 2 as it swings through the arc.

Or the rear of the propshaft needs to go down by tipping the rear differential forward, tipping the pinion down. Probably a little of both.

Right now, I just wanted to see if the front working angle was in the ball park and it is not bad for an eyeball guess. If I tip the rear of the transmission up, the exhaust downpipe of the right side will be pointing at the transmission crossmember.

Another solution to move the rear of the transmission up is to move the crossmember up too. Since I am not happy with this crossmember set up, I ordered one with a 6 inch drop that will be able to attach to the side of the frame. Once that comes in I will dial in both front and rear working angles.

[Advanced Design]

Before I can start on front of the exhaust system, I need to replace the transmission crossmember then dial in the front and rear propshaft working angles.

So I moved to the exit end and started on the through the running board exit. The first exhaust tips (on the left side of picture 1) were perfect for depth though wouldn't work for the exit I want behind the back running board bracket.

The tips on the right had the exhaust set off to one side which was perfect to fit between the running board bracket and four link bracket on the outside of the frame.

Since the side of the running board was now cut out on the side, I followed the lead of oldnslow and Marc in the way they did theirs. Basically I built a box from 3/16 flat steel to provide an attachment for the exhaust tip and add back in some rigidity to the board.

Though I didn't get it finished today, this is the direction it is going. Yeah, the tip is just a little below the bottom of the running board and I don't think the boards will lay flat when aired out.

Until I try it, drop the truck and probably put the squeeze on the exhaust tips.

More parts are on the way this week and hopefully I can finish up the exhaust exits next week end.

[99 to Life]

very nice explanation on that. First I'v seen this method and I'v searched the subject a few times you could say. I usually shoot for a zero them out method. trans -3 and rear +3 for example. I know some guys have different methods with leaf springs vs link bars etc.

[RockinKees]

Nice parts Doug!
Great tutorial on how to measure the angles.

What kind of mufflers are you going to use?

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

big ticket items getting checked off, exhaust and DS, getting close. But oh boy does interior stuff take forevvvveeeerrr. I'll have to look into those DShafts.

Yeah 99, the budget busters are coming along. And it seems everything on this build takes me forever. Still a ton on the to do list.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

very nice explanation on that. First I'v seen this method and I'v searched the subject a few times you could say. I usually shoot for a zero them out method. trans -3 and rear +3 for example. I know some guys have different methods with leaf springs vs link bars etc.

Thanks 99. And you are right the rear working angle, at ride height, needs to be the same as the front working angle, or at least within 0.5 degrees. This is the method I learned at GM tech class when I was a GM field engineer.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

Nice parts Doug!
Great tutorial on how to measure the angles.

What kind of mufflers are you going to use?

Thanks Kees! I am not sure on the mufflers yet. I don't want anything too loud and will see what will fit once the x pipe is mounted up. The 56 Chevy has Pypes mufflers and a good sound so maybe a set of those. The exhaust will probably take longer than the fuel tank mounting did.

[Coach529]

Looks great.

Love the exhaust coming out the running boards.

[iowaboynca]

Coming along nicely!
Thanks for the write up on angles! I've booked marked for future reference.

[oldman3]

Doug, nice work man...Jim

[Old Jimmy]

Doug,

Thanks for the lesson on driveline angles. I wondered how I would accomplish this. Where can I get one of those meters?

Jeff

[youngrodder]

Great progress Doug. After looking at all of this I feel pretty confident that I have a strangle hold on 3rd place...Not to jinx you.

The exhaust tips that I used on my 48 were like the pair on the left with center inlet.

Keep it up

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Thanks Coach! it would have been pretty tricky to route exhaust to the back so running boards should be good.

You are welcome Iowa, when I set the rear I will probably show that too. Usually this is done from the bottom with the body on though same principle applies.

Thanks Jim, I'm not talented like a lot of folks on here though I enjoy trying my best.

Old Jimmy you are welcome. That angle finder came from Amazon Amazon.com: Calculated Industries 7434 AccuMASTER...
Please be sure to use a socket (or big roller bearing) that is true on both sides or your angles will be off.

Thanks Marc, I might be good for third place as what I posted took all day Saturday. Blew off mowing the grass and wife will handle that this week...which is a blessing from the Lord. The exhaust tips I didn't use would have been better size wise. Oh well, more parts for the ever growing swap meet pile.

Guys, appreciate the words, encouragement and good natured chop busting. Helps keep me motivated as we all know how much time, effort and resources these builds take.

Next weekend hope to finish the through the running board exhaust tips and maybe get the new transmission crossmember in.

[lower50's]

Every time I read on how to set up axles and ds I learn something new Thanks. Nice looking exhaust are you going to put in some kind of flex joint?

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Every time I read on how to set up axles and ds I learn something new Thanks. Nice looking exhaust are you going to put in some kind of flex joint?

Very welcome. Yes, SS flex joints are in the shop awaiting install, probably right on the exhaust tip. Good thought on that. Ordered some SS flanges and hangers from Paul Horton so sending some business to Canada. Met him several years ago at the street rod nationals in Louisville. Good guy.

Still have to get some 90's and mufflers.

[BC Toy chest]

Awesome work with the exhaust , love it.

[65sub]

Cool exhaust. I really like the exit in the running board.

[Advanced Design]

Thanks BC and 65! Hope the rest of the exhaust comes out ok...I think I have a plan, or at least a rough draft of an idea.