Got some new wheels: Boss 338's in 20x10 and 20x8.5

[brossow]

For you guys who are posting that you installed without issues, please be sure to include what rotors you're running up front. For years now we've been battling this false impression that these are bolt-on wheels, which they still are not except in rare circumstances - namely for the relatively few trucks running light-duty or aftermarket rotors. Thanks!

[Marko3002]

Wouldnt know the difference in rotors or what to look for but the rep from Boss told me they had such a demand for this wheel on these older trucks that they re tooled the wheel. He gauranteed me they would fit and didnt ask a thing about the rotors.

[bryan76]

what was the part number on the rear wheels
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[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by Marko3002

Wouldnt know the difference in rotors or what to look for but the rep from Boss told me they had such a demand for this wheel on these older trucks that they re tooled the wheel. He gauranteed me they would fit and didnt ask a thing about the rotors.

Originally Posted by brossow

For you guys who are posting that you installed without issues, please be sure to include what rotors you're running up front. For years now we've been battling this false impression that these are bolt-on wheels, which they still are not except in rare circumstances - namely for the relatively few trucks running light-duty or aftermarket rotors. Thanks!

Originally Posted by landsurvey1

Mine is the same way, no issues at all.

Originally Posted by brossow

Must have light-duty (1") or aftermarket rotors up front.

Originally Posted by Marko3002

Just got a set of the Boss 338's and they bolted on perfectly without any issues!!

Yes they do fit 1" rotors with no mods. But I personally have put the rev.3 wheel ON 2 DIFFERENT TRUCKS NOW WITH 1-1/4 THICK ROTORS. One is a 68 with an 86 suburban crossmember bolted under it. (My own personal truck with what appear to be original GM Rotors) and the other is my cousins 72 swb truck.( It does have NAPA Brand relacement rotors on it.) Now I can say they will not fit my 78 2wd Blazer with 1-1/4 rotors though.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by ksbrktracer

Yes they do fit 1" rotors with no mods. But I personally have put the rev.3 wheel ON 2 DIFFERENT TRUCKS NOW WITH 1-1/4 THICK ROTORS. One is a 68 with an 86 suburban crossmember bolted under it. (My own personal truck with what appear to be original GM Rotors) and the other is my cousins 72 swb truck.( It does have NAPA Brand relacement rotors on it.) Now I can say they will not fit my 78 2wd Blazer with 1-1/4 rotors though.

Get out your caliper and measure the diameter of the hubs on those two trucks with 1.25" rotors. Bet it's not the same as stock HD rotors. You yourself proved they haven't fixed the issue because they won't bolt on to your Blazer. Can't believe that 1300+ posts later in this thread there are still people who think the problem is solved just because they (a) got lucky with replacement/aftermarket rotors or (b) don't realize they have light-duty rotors.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Marko3002

Wouldnt know the difference in rotors or what to look for but the rep from Boss told me they had such a demand for this wheel on these older trucks that they re tooled the wheel. He gauranteed me they would fit and didnt ask a thing about the rotors.

Boss/AEWC has been full of crap for years and the reps will tell you whatever they think you want to hear. You can see in a post just a few above yours that the back bore, which is THE source of interference with most front rotors, hasn't changed since the wheels were first introduced. They've claimed repeatedly that they had retooled and fixed the problem, but the numbers don't lie and that bore hasn't changed by so much as a millimeter.

[lolife99]

I think what brossow is trying to say,... is that Boss/AE wheels hasn't addressed the problem since the "3AA" wheel revision that didn't even come close to addressing the problem.

brossow and I have been talking about these wheels since I started this thread in 2009.

The truth is,... the variation in 1-1/4" rotor hub dimensions, (be it aftermarket or oem),... is the only way these wheels are a true "bolt-on" with the HD rotors.

No way is Boss continuing to make improvements to the hub design issues of these wheels.
The only improvement is a 20x10 wheel with a 5.5" BS.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by lolife99

No way is Boss continuing to make improvements to the hub design issues of these wheels.
The only improvement is a 20x10 wheel with a 5.5" BS.

And even then, all they did was add more meat to the back side mounting surface; they didn't even do it the right way by leaving the center section alone and just moving it an inch more inboard. Effectively they just added a permanent spacer to their own wheel. I love the look of the wheel, and I love that it's made in USA, but AEWC/Boss is incompetent when it comes to making meaningful, appropriate changes to their own designs and offerings.

[bryan76]

just test fit the new 3387-2085-1AA different offset/backspacing and it fits great that is 20x10 rear and 20x8.5 front i have 1" rotors so they worked
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[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by bryan76

just test fit the new 3387-2085-1AA different offset/backspacing and it fits great that is 20x10 rear and 20x8.5 front i have 1" rotors so they worked
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Good Deal ..... Post some pics.

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I think what brossow is trying to say,... is that Boss/AE wheels hasn't addressed the problem since the "3AA" wheel revision that didn't even come close to addressing the problem.

brossow and I have been talking about these wheels since I started this thread in 2009.

The truth is,... the variation in 1-1/4" rotor hub dimensions, (be it aftermarket or oem),... is the only way these wheels are a true "bolt-on" with the HD rotors.

No way is Boss continuing to make improvements to the hub design issues of these wheels.
The only improvement is a 20x10 wheel with a 5.5" BS.

Originally Posted by brossow

And even then, all they did was add more meat to the back side mounting surface; they didn't even do it the right way by leaving the center section alone and just moving it an inch more inboard. Effectively they just added a permanent spacer to their own wheel. I love the look of the wheel, and I love that it's made in USA, but AEWC/Boss is incompetent when it comes to making meaningful, appropriate changes to their own designs and offerings.

[
First off let me qualify this by saying .... I havent suffered thru 3-4 years of frustration with this wheel and secondly I am in no way trying to argue with anyone .... Just stating my opinions is all. I can tell you... all I have read is this wheel wont fit these trucks , Yet the first 3 trucks I went to put them on ... they fit with absolutelly no mods whatsoever ..... and that is on 1-1/4 thick rotors that I personally measured. Yes you guys are right .... they dont fit everything as evidenced by my 2wd blazer.... but so far I am batting 75% and I havent modified anything whatsoever.

It is personally one of my favorite all time wheels and also .... I love the fact that it is an AMERICAN made wheel. Again Im not tryin to argue , just trying to offer useful information and I dont claim to know it all ....... I tell lots of people to talk to lo-life everyday as he has a vast amount of knowledge concerning these trucks. Hope no one is offended ............ !

[HotRod C/10]

What we need is a vendor of this popular wheel to step up and be the voice to correct the issue with the front 1 1/4" rotor and the rear 20x10 pad just being built up with no increased lip depth.......................they could make millions if this was adressed.

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by HotRod C/10

What we need is a vendor of this popular wheel to step up and be the voice to correct the issue with the front 1 1/4" rotor and the rear 20x10 pad just being built up with no increased lip depth.......................they could make millions if this was adressed.

Like LO-Life was saying ...... I think it is falling on deaf ears , I have talked to my warehouse guy everyday about getting them to mod the wheel . Not sure why but man I could sell alot more wheels if they would.

I have thought about buying some rotors and cutting them on a Brake lathe so they looked good and fit. .....Would that interest anyone if you could get the wheel and rotor guaranteed to fit with no mods......?

[lolife99]

No one is offended.
Just frustrated.
Brossow did ALOT of legwork early on trying to work with Boss/AE Wheels.
It all fell on deaf ears.
I have a set of these wheels mounted on new tires that I probably will never run.
Boss has almost ruined these wheels for me,... Because of their inability to listen to the consumer.
We've been telling them how to make "millions" since 2009.

It's a good thing they can and are being used on these trucks.

[bugmasta]

Originally Posted by lolife99

No one is offended.
Just frustrated.
Brossow did ALOT of legwork early on trying to work with Boss/AE Wheels.
It all fell on deaf ears.
I have a set of these wheels mounted on new tires that I probably will never run.
Boss has almost ruined these wheels for me,... Because of their inability to listen to the consumer.
We've been telling them how to make "millions" since 2009.

It's a good thing they can and are being used on these trucks.
Mine will get sold.
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PM SENT
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[lolife99]

Originally Posted by bugmasta

PM SENT
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replied,...

[bugmasta]

I just need some quick clarifications. Do the rear wheels require a spacer to prevent rubbing? I have a 72 rear end and am running 20x10 rears with 295/40r20 tires. They seem to rub and I do not see another backspace option on the boss website.

Most of the spacers I am finding are 1.5", will that be too much? Or should I try and find some 1" spacers. Would really like to find something local tomorrow so I can roll these wheels to the show this weekend. Otherwise it will be old wheels and tires for the show. Thanks.
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[lolife99]

There are 2 BS numbers for 20x10's.
6.225" and 5.5"

Which do you have?

[bugmasta]

Originally Posted by lolife99

There are 2 BS numbers for 20x10's.
6.225" and 5.5"
WHich do you have?

I have the 6.225 as it was the only backspace option I saw listed. Wish I would have known about the 5.5 option. Don't see it listed on their website either.

But ya, I have the 6.225 backspace.
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[lolife99]

Yep.
I have the same wheel.
Sometime last year they came out with a 5.5" BS.
Some members here have them.
And they aren't listed on their website.

You really need about a 3/4" spacer, with your 6.225" BS wheels,... (for the wider 71-72 width rearends),... but I think 1" is the narrowest you will find.

[HotRod C/10]

I have the 5.5 BS 10 rear in 20"......fits nicely with my narrow rearend and 1" spacers

[magwakeenercew2jh]

For anyone who still cares about this stuff:



Here are a couple of shots of the earlier 338's. 8.5 x 20 in front with a 245/40 and a 1" spacer.
The rear is a 20 x 10 with 275/45's and a 1.5" spacer.

I had room in the back with that set up *before* I put on the 1" spacers...But only by 1/4" before
it hit the bed on the inside edge. The ECE adjustable panhard bar allowed me to center things to
get the 1/4" even on both sides.

But the 338 folks only offered that 6.225" BS (I'm talking rear...I don't remember the front stats)
when I bought them. And, I was too far under the bed. So, at first I went with the 1" spacers in the rear.

Next was a move of the spacers to the front. And new spacers... a little wider (1.5")..... on the rear.

So, this is how she sits now with the ECE 4.5/6 drop (spindles and springs in the front, and springs in the rear....
...Not that it matters for this conversation, but a big, fat anti-sway bar up front and also ECE shock relocation
kit all around.

Oops! I forgot...The rear end is '71. That, I believe, is important. Width-wise....Just to make these stats make sense.

[spidermn]

Originally Posted by magwakeenercew2jh

For anyone who still cares about this stuff:



Here are a couple of shots of the earlier 338's. 8.5 x 20 in front with a 245/40 and a 1" spacer.
The rear is a 20 x 10 with 275/45's and a 1.5" spacer.

I had room in the back with that set up *before* I put on the 1" spacers...But only by 1/4" before
it hit the bed on the inside edge. The ECE adjustable panhard bar allowed me to center things to
get the 1/4" even on both sides.

But the 338 folks only offered that 6.225" BS (I'm talking rear...I don't remember the front stats)
when I bought them. And, I was too far under the bed. So, at first I went with the 1" spacers in the rear.

Next was a move of the spacers to the front. And new spacers... a little wider (1.5")..... on the rear.

So, this is how she sits now with the ECE 4.5/6 drop (spindles and springs in the front, and springs in the rear....
...Not that it matters for this conversation, but a big, fat anti-sway bar up front and also ECE shock relocation
kit all around.

Oops! I forgot...The rear end is '71. That, I believe, is important. Width-wise....Just to make these stats make sense.

magwakeenercew2jh, i am looking at running the same setup on my 1970 c10. Did you have to do any modifications to get the spindles and springs set up in the front and did you notch the rear frame to get that kind of drop?

[ksbrktracer]

Originally Posted by spidermn

magwakeenercew2jh, i am looking at running the same setup on my 1970 c10. Did you have to do any modifications to get the spindles and springs set up in the front and did you notch the rear frame to get that kind of drop?

If I was doing this I would order the 5.5" backspace wheel , saves you having to run spacers in the rear. Depends on how low you go in the rear as to whether you have to notch the frame or not.
If you have converted to stock 71 or newer brakes you will probably have to modify the snout on the rotor ( 1.25" rotor) to fit in the front wheels so you dont have to use a spacer. Should be a complete bolt on deal otherwise. There is some aftermarket brake setups that require no mods to the rotor. 81 and newer light duty brakes ( 1" rotor) dont require the mod, but you would need spindle , caliper, rotor etc.
But you also have to be using a 71-72 rearend to make it work. 70 rearend is going to be to narrow.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by magwakeenercew2jh

Here are a couple of shots of the earlier 338's. 8.5 x 20 in front with a 245/40 and a 1" spacer. The rear is a 20 x 10 with 275/45's and a 1.5" spacer.

I had room in the back with that set up *before* I put on the 1" spacers...But only by 1/4" before it hit the bed on the inside edge. The ECE adjustable
panhard bar allowed me to center things to get the 1/4" even on both sides.

But the 338 folks only offered that 6.225" BS (I'm talking rear...I don't remember the front stats)
when I bought them. And, I was too far under the bed. So, at first I went with the 1" spacers in the rear.

Next was a move of the spacers to the front. And new spacers... a little wider (1.5")..... on the rear.

So, this is how she sits now with the ECE 4.5/6 drop (spindles and springs in the front, and springs in the rear....
...Not that it matters for this conversation, but a big, fat anti-sway bar up front and also ECE shock relocation
kit all around.

Oops! I forgot...The rear end is '71. That, I believe, is important. Width-wise....Just to make these stats make sense.

Here are a couple of "better" pics than I posted before with the same stats as above. No rubbing. No issues like that.

When I wear out the 275's in the rear, it looks like I have room to go with 295's. Likely, then, I'll raise the front end up by 1" or 2"
to get the whole truck a little more level. We'll see. Was going to go with bags in the rear. But suggestions from wiser minds prevailed.