Glock's new project: "Fred" w/ 5.3L LS swap info

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

For the 4L60E you can just find an 90 to 91 Suburban transfer case and adapter. It uses the NP241C transfer case with the passenger side drop we need and has the electronically controlled speedometer you need for the conversion too.

For the 4L80E you can use a custom adapter flange to fit the 2-wd trans to a T-400 NP205 transfer case and adapter housing. Take a look at NP205.org for this.

For mine I'll be sticking with either the original TH350, or using a 700R4. I don't want to swap out the original gauges. Either of these two will make the swap simple and inexpensive. Staying with the TH350, I will only need the spacer ($32). If I go with a 700R4, I will still need to spacer, but the trans will be cheap, and I can still keep the original gauges.

[78-5.3]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

For mine I'll be sticking with either the original TH350, or using a 700R4. I don't want to swap out the original gauges. Either of these two will make the swap simple and inexpensive. Staying with the TH350, I will only need the spacer ($32). If I go with a 700R4, I will still need to spacer, but the trans will be cheap, and I can still keep the original gauges.

hey there i was trying to find what page you swapped the 90-91 speedo and what you did !!!!
thanks

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by 78-5.3

hey there i was trying to find what page you swapped the 90-91 speedo and what you did !!!!
thanks

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...&postcount=581

No pics, but a very basic description of what I did.

Nothing to update on except that I am driving him as often as I can, mostly when the weather allows me to. Like today in fact!!

I'll probably order the Kwik brackets and compressor in early spring and get working on the AC.

My wife and I are talking about another trip to the Bahamas in Feb 2011. I also have some things I need to do to the house.... all new carpet on the main floor and upstairs, lay down hard wood flooring in the dinning/kitchen area, remove the gas fireplace and build an entertainment center in it's place in the wall, and a new TV. So I'll probably just drive him like he is now until we take our trip and get the house stuff done, then start saving for body work and paint.

Otherwise, we are stupid busy at work! Lot's of power plants were trying to save money by not doing any maintenance this summer, and now are having to do a lot of repairs and maintenance that got skipped over. So they have been trying to get parts before the end of the year, before they lose this years budget money. I'm not complaining though!!

[Thealien]

I looked at those options also and wasn't sure about where the shifter for the TC would end up. My floor has been lined so I didn't want to have to cut the floor any. With the way I plan on ending up the NP205 with the advance adapters shaft


FOUND HERE

And the 4 bolt to 6 bolt adapter with VSS


HERE Will allow me to keep my NP205, my shifter in the stock location, with VSS provisions for the 4L60. I will have to mount the engine 1 7/8 inches further forward than stock but have not heard any issues with that yet.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Thealien

I looked at those options also and wasn't sure about where the shifter for the TC would end up. My floor has been lined so I didn't want to have to cut the floor any.

The 4L80E is 3" longer than the T-400 and the adapter plate is 1-1/4" thick so it will move the TC shifter back about 4-1/4".

An offset shifter handle may be able to take care of some of that but I don't know if it will be able to compensate for all of it. We will see.

I'm converting from an SM465 so mine will be moved quite a bit from the stock location.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

The 4L80E is 3" longer than the T-400 and the adapter plate is 1-1/4" thick so it will move the TC shifter back about 4-1/4".

An offset shifter handle may be able to take care of some of that but I don't know if it will be able to compensate for all of it. We will see.

I'm converting from an SM465 so mine will be moved quite a bit from the stock location.

I am looking at the 4L60 which is shorter than the 4L80

A 350 is 21 5/8 to the flange

a 700R4 is 23 3/8 to the flange

a 4L60 is 21 3/4 and add the 1.5 inch adapter and it will be 1/8 shorter than a 700R4. The 700R4 is 1 3/4 inches longer than the TH350.

you can check my measurements
HERE and I posted the link to the 1.5 inch adapter in my earlier post.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Thealien

I am looking at the 4L60 which is shorter than the 4L80

A 350 is 21 5/8 to the flange

a 700R4 is 23 3/8 to the flange

a 4L60 is 21 3/4 and add the 1.5 inch adapter and it will be 1/8 shorter than a 700R4. The 700R4 is 1 3/4 inches longer than the TH350.

you can check my measurements
HERE and I posted the link to the 1.5 inch adapter in my earlier post.

The 21-3/4" number is to the trans mount point. Overall length for the later 4L60E is the same as the earlier ones. Driveshafts interchange without any issues from 84 to 2002 and probably later 700R4 , 4L60 and 4L60E.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

The 21-3/4" number is to the trans mount point. Overall length for the later 4L60E is the same as the earlier ones. Driveshafts interchange without any issues from 84 to 2002 and probably later 700R4 , 4L60 and 4L60E.

Check my link again The mount is the C measurement. Measurement B the one I gave is to the flange. Are you saying all the measurements in that link and advance adapters is wrong?

My link lists the overall length of the 700R4 as 30"?

and the early 4L60 overall length as 30 3/4 "

and the later 4L60 overall length as 31 5/32

So I don't doubt the driveshafts interchange with them all being that close. My measurements are all to the flange due to having to mount them to a transfer case so what you're saying has no bearing on my measurements. I can understand where some confusion may come in because I mentioned installing a 2WD 4L60 but that would be temporary as I plan to end up using my NP205 transfer case in the final assembly. The 700R4 in 4X4 configuration is 1 3/4" longer than a TH350 in 4X4 configuration. A 4L60 with a 6 bolt to 4 bolt adapter is within an 1/8" to a 1/4" in length to a 700R4 in 4X4 configuration. I want to mount my engine 1 7/8 inches forward whether I install the transmission in 2WD or 4WD configuration so in the end my transfer case stays in the original location!

[Thumpin455]

Im thinking of a 6.2L 4L80E swap in the 76, I can get one surprisingly cheap up here. They cant move the thing and its just sitting there. Maybe in the spring I'll do it.

Did you ever get it running on E85? Im making fuel at home from cattails and potatoes, so that part of this thread interests me most. I found with my 98 Formula Firebird that the LSx engines need a bit of tuning and a little larger injector to run E85/E100 without a piggy back. I can run 60% ethanol in the Formula without a lean code on stock injectors. Sorry I came in the thread late, and reading 45 pages would be a bit much.

[joe231]

cool, thanks for the info....
I wasn't getting the whole story

[Thumpin455]

Ive had E85 sitting in my 70 GTO for two years, gets moved around the yard. It hasnt collected much moisture in that time. For it to be a real problem you would need to get over 10% water in it, you know a gallon of water in a ten gallon tank. It will evaporate before it sucks up a gallon of water in a truck. A boat might get that much if it gets swamped, but you would have to drive through a flood or something.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Thumpin455

Ive had E85 sitting in my 70 GTO for two years, gets moved around the yard. It hasnt collected much moisture in that time. For it to be a real problem you would need to get over 10% water in it, you know a gallon of water in a ten gallon tank. It will evaporate before it sucks up a gallon of water in a truck. A boat might get that much if it gets swamped, but you would have to drive through a flood or something.

This is interesting. A few years back (more like 9) I went to newer gas station close to my home and I picked up a few quarts of water in a 99 Grand am. It trashed the fuel pump. Cost me about $400 if I remember correctly. With me doing the install.

[Thumpin455]

Ethanol will withstand much more water in it than will gasoline and still run fine. Gasoline wont take much water at all before your car wont run and it will start ruining parts.

Ethanol bonds with water in such a way that to separate the two you need to distill it. Also, contrary to what you might think, if you take ten gallons of ethanol and add two gallons of water you do not end up with 12 gallons, due to how it bonds. So the water left in it wont damage parts like it would if mixed with gasoline.

However, if you have too much water mixed with E85 or any ethanol blended gasoline, it will separate the ethanol and water from the gasoline if it sits for a long enough time. Also, ethanol with 10%-50% water mixed in it will pull bare aluminum into suspension, but like I mentioned above that is a bunch of water mixed with it.

Ive been working on producing fuel for a few years now, and I have found most negatives you read about to not be true or not entirely true. Making it myself frees up more $$$ for me to spend on things that are important to me rather than sending my $$$ overseas and to people who are already fabulously wealthy. Also its actually quite fun to work on that project and learn what it takes to make what amounts to race fuel for less than 40 cents a gallon.

[menace121978]

whoa, to much confusion!! wheres the guy that made this all look so plain and simple???


BOB!!???

[soule64]

I just received the Kwik Performance A/C pump relocation kit for my 4.8 swap.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by soule64

I just received the Kwik Performance A/C pump relocation kit for my 4.8 swap. I can measure the parts and draw everything out if you are still interested in going that route. There are no curved parts (except for the bushings) or welding required so I think it would be quite simple to make it yourself. $200 seems like quite a lot of money for what I got. Kwik didn't send the hardware (supposed to be included) so I have plenty of time.

If you can draw up the brackets and give some dimensions that would be a great resource to have for everybody.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by soule64

I just received the Kwik Performance A/C pump relocation kit for my 4.8 swap. I can measure the parts and draw everything out if you are still interested in going that route. There are no curved parts (except for the bushings) or welding required so I think it would be quite simple to make it yourself. $200 seems like quite a lot of money for what I got. Kwik didn't send the hardware (supposed to be included) so I have plenty of time.

You think you could take some high res pics of the kit and post them here? thanks

[lolife99]

http://www.kwikperf.com/

[soule64]

This is what I have - minus the hardware...

[Jonboy]

Bob, when you got the electric cluster, how much of the wiring did you need to get? Anything else I will need to grab from the donor to make it work? Also, do the gauges get their signal from the PCM?

[glock35ipsc]

You'll use your existing wiring, you won't need any from the donor. You will just need to re-arrange the wires in your plug to match up to the new cluster. Note where each pin goes on both clusters, and note the wire colors on your harness too. Its really easy, and will make sense once they are side by side.

[glock35ipsc]

Oh, I forgot. All the rest of the gauges work like normal, nothing changes there. The original oil psi sending unit goes in to the bypass block above the oil filter (you will need to drill and tap it for 1/8" NPT). The original temp sender will go into the plug on the rear of the pass head. You can either use an adapter or drill and tap the head for 3/8" NPT.

So, the only thing that will go to the cluster from the PCM will be one wire to the speedo. The speedo uses 3 wires: power, ground, and the PCM signal. It gets its power and ground for the circuit board, so you don't have to do anything extra there.

[Jonboy]

I think whoever swapped the engine in my truck just buried teh original engine harness. None of the gauges work. Hopefully it won't be too bad to sort out. I love a challenge (at least that is what I keep telling myself....)

[qu1cks1lver56]

this truck looks great with the burban front end. and i REALLY like the 5.3 swap, wish i had the time/money to do one in mine. i bet it gets great gas mileage

[79gmc5.3]

Bob you are my HERO. You are the reason I am starting my 6.0L swap. Thanks for all the great info.