Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

.... when you did the wiring did you send the ecm out for reprogramming? ....

Computer was reflashed to exclude the cats.

[dsraven]

here's a little blurb on intake changes and maf/map sensors. hopefully you get it figured out.


https://www.counterman.com/understan...r-flow-issues/

[dug224]

A banner day at Cruisin' the Coast. Perfect weather and, because we got there at 0800 instead of 0700, we got the best heavily shaded parking spot in the venue! Thousands of cars.... Met and hung out with Malcolm (of 67MAL fame). He is from north Mississippi and is a fellow truck enthusiast from this site. Rode down to the autocross event which almost lured me in. Will do it next year when the truck is in better shape and we have a ride home in case it breaks. Speaking of breaking, got within 3 miles of the house on the return trip and the transmission went away. Almost like someone took it out of gear. Put it down in 3rd and limped home. My trans guy thought it may have lost power. So, this morning, I got up and started tracing wires. Nothing loose. Unplugged and re-plugged the ECM and transmission connector to insure could contact. Could not remember how I grounded the engine so I added a large ground between the GND mounting point on my alternator bracket and the strut tower. Happens to be the same location that the ECM grounds are bundled and mounted. Drove the truck for a bit and no codes. Let it idle for 20 minutes and it threw the P0101 code. So, based on laminar air discussions I've had with DSRAVEN and Malcolm, I removed the air cleaner and pulled the radiator filler neck out of the way to see if anything changed. Sure enough, the P0101 went away and lean codes (P0171 and P0174) did not re-surfaced. The fuel trim is down from 20 to 0 where it apparently belongs. Plan is to move my radiator filler neck out of the way and for now, install a cone type filter if I can get one to fit. Ultimately I'll move the MAF sensor to the end of a long-ish tube on the passenger side of the engine compartment. Although it is probably not my issue, I still have a fresh MAP sensor on the way and will change it when it gets here.

[dsraven]

nice to see it in line at a car show eh?
too bad about the trans issues but hopefully it was just a glitch. is it working good again now?
I think you could solve your maf issues with a rubber elbow off the throttle body going to a length of aluminized exh tubing with a slight bend to help clear the rad hose. then the maf, then a short length of tubing or an extra long length of rubber connector hose and then the air filter. the short length of tubing after the maf is to allow the air to get laminar again before hitting the maf. on some of the older maf sensors and/or throttle bodies they used a honeycomb screen affair to act as a stream straightener next to the maf. maybe you could simply install something like that?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72817eDl1uc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRfaPfTcfOM

[dug224]

The saga continues. Codes P0101, P0171 and P0174 came roaring back. I replaced MAP sensor and they came back even quicker. It always felt like a vacuum leak to Jim so while I wasn't paying attention, he built a smoke machine out of a Harbor Freight soldering iron, small metal paint can, cotton and some tubing. All in about $15. We stuck it on the front of the throttle body using a rubber glove and pumped the intake full of smoke using very low pressure from my compressor. Had smoke billowing out of both sides of the intake manifold. You can see the smoke in the 4th photo against the hood. Seems to be coming from under the intake. Also had it leaking out of the oil filler neck so I pushed it back into its' hole. Headed to YouTube to see how much trouble it is to pull the intake manifold.

[dsraven]

intake is easy but remember to have an inch pound torque qrench on hand to do the intake bolts after. check the intake for cracks as well, especially if the engine came from a wreck. under the intake there may also be the knock sensors, depending on the year of engine, and they are prone to rusting due to a bad seal on the wiring grommet and the sensors being down in a deep well. there is also a youtube on fixing that which will include a new short harness with grommets attached and a better way to build a silicone dam around the area so water runs off around the grommet instead of right over it.
when the intake is off it would be a great time to clean the throttle body as well. before the intake comes off would be a great time to flush the injectors. ensure the engine nice and clean prior to dissassembly so nothing falls into an intake port. with the intake off and upside down you could use some carb cleaner and a nylon brush on the injectors to clean the outside area. I usually stuff some rags down the intake ports as soon as the manifold is off so nothing falls down there.
here are a few pics of what you will be getting into. notice how clean the intake and injectors are. this is on my old 03 avalanche. i run seafoam in the tank after every oil change. the intake runners are like new and the injectors are really clean as well. highly recommend the stuff.

[dug224]

Dennis: I'm on it....
1. ...inch pound torque wrench: Got one.
2. ...check the intake for cracks: Came out of a wreck and will check for cracks.
3. ...knock sensors: Can't believe they would have designed such a poor location but will check.
4. ...clean the throttle body... flush the injectors: Will do.
5. ... ensure the engine nice and clean prior to dissassembly: Check
6. ....seafoam...highly recommend the stuff: Noted.
Thanks!!!

[dsraven]

cool idea foe a smoker. good thinking.
for cleaning, one of those garden variety 1L (sorry, quart) hand held pump sprayers works well for solvent. if you play it right you can get one with viton guts so it is more than single use. you can buy brake cleaner by the 4L (gallon) jug. the 3m roloc discs work well on a mini die grinder or drill, get the ones for aluminum or be carfefull not to remove metal.
felpro makes a nice gasket set for the intake.
if the intake is cracked you could install a shorter one from a car but the truck ones are cheaper usually (used).

[dug224]

I dove in. Went really quickly until I couldn't get my plastic fuel line tools to work. Quick run to Harbor Freight and $7.91 later I've got a decent tool. No sign of cracks in the manifold. As you can see, the inside of the block passage ways are pretty dirty. No sign of corrosion on the knock sensors. Will order some fresh knock sensors and a gasket set and get it wrapped up.

[dug224]

Pulled the old knock sensors and wiring harness. The front knock sensor was in the worst shape. I got the intake and knock sensor surfaces all cleaned up and now waiting on parts. After seeing really poor reviews across the board on aftermarket knock sensors, I decided to spend the extra money and get genuine GM ACDelco parts. Based on what I have read and what DSRAVEN did, I will be creating a dam around the knock sensors. I plan on leaving out the factory foam pieces that are mounted at each end of the intake manifold because they are in pretty bad shape. They are said to be installed to keep debris from getting under the intake and also as sound abatement. Not sure which one or if both are correct. In any case, I will be leaving mine out.

[dug224]

The fresh intake gaskets and knock sensors are in place and all is well. No codes yet and the fuel trim long term and short term are approaching zero. So, it looks like it was a vacuum leak up under the intake all along. New cone type air filter has been ordered.

[dsraven]

nice. gotta love the cleanliness of the work too.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

nice. gotta love the cleanliness of the work too.

Speaking of cleanliness....I put my first jug of Sea Foam in the tank. The inside of my intake needs some serious cleaning. Hope to get them as clean as yours!!

Just in time too....Closing on the last rental house (actually 11 of them) sale this Friday and simultaneously kicking off the house build. I've got the subs lined up and ready to go. View from atop the boat house back when I was putting new roof on. This will be our approximate water view south and north just 60 feet back.


View looking east back at the street.

[rgunlock]

Wow, looks like you've got a great lot! I'd have to get everything done on the truck before moving to that spot because all I'd want to be doing is fishing.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Wow, looks like you've got a great lot! I'd have to get everything done on the truck before moving to that spot because all I'd want to be doing is fishing.

Great lot....We are on the somewhat protected north side of Orange Beach, AL. I put the truck in the "done enough" category for now. It's drivable, comfortable and has AC. I still have a pretty long list but it can all wait. I've got all kinds of hobbies to pick back up and fishing is one of them. But first, I'll have to source a boat. Got rid of all our water stuff when we thought we were moving to Denver. Come on over and bring your pole....but give me about 9 months to get the house in shape.

[dsraven]

nice looking place you have there.
sorry to say seafoam will clean stuff from the injectors down but that is below the intake manifold runners so they remain how they are now. to clean that you could try some seafoam slowly introduced into the intake through a vacuum hose with the engine running but that will also only clean from that spot downstream and not really that well since it would likely be a short term thing. the parts guys selling the stuff often recommend doing this, shutting the engine off to let it soak in, then restarting the engine and "running it hard". this will create a lot of smoke in the pipes and stuff going down into catalytic converters (if you had one) so I don't really recommend doing that step. slow is better in my mind so as not to loosen up too much at once.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

nice looking place you have there.
sorry to say seafoam will clean stuff from the injectors down but that is below the intake manifold runners so they remain how they are now......

Makes sense. My parts guys said the same thing. I think I'll leave well enough alone since it seems to be running pretty good at this point.

[dug224]

Truck is running great. All codes are gone and the fuel trim levels are in order. Decided to change the goofy looking yellow mushroom air filter to this short $10 ram type cone filter. Looks much better and fits just over the top of my radiator cover with plenty of room to spare above it. Purchased and tried to install a Cold Air Intake system but simply couldn't fit it all in with the real estate I had left under the hood.

Also, to correct the fuel filler neck related slow gas tank fill, I ordered a clear 1.25" ID filler hose. This will replace the factory rubber hose and steel tube piece that I added onto with a reducer and 1.5" filler neck up at the fender. If it does not work, I'll add a Tee at the tank and introduce a gas tank vent.

[dsraven]

looking good!
just be watchful of that new filter because if it rubs on the rad or hoses there will be a hole in no time. maybe need to build a funnel of some sort, like the dogs get at the vet, to protect the filter or mount it solid so it can't rub anything.
how is that house coming along?
built a spare tire carrier for my step side box. man, too many angles and stuff. took me waaaay too long. solid though.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looking good!
just be watchful of that new filter because if it rubs on the rad or hoses there will be a hole in no time. maybe need to build a funnel of some sort, like the dogs get at the vet, to protect the filter or mount it solid so it can't rub anything.
how is that house coming along?
built a spare tire carrier for my step side box. man, too many angles and stuff. took me waaaay too long. solid though.

I'll keep an eye on it for rubbing. I'll slip a piece of cut hose over the radiator hose for now. Good comment.

House: Purchased the first series of permits yesterday on the house. Most every sub is lined up. Besides the site work, the first real purchase will be 41 each 10"x10"x 30' piles at $400 each and getting them driven at $10/ft.

Sure wish you would put your quality work up on this build site!!! One day??

[dug224]

Slow gas tank fill problem fixed! I had created a problem by adding on a large Gates filler neck to the factory metal tube. Fuel would pile up and trip the fuel filler handle. Would take 20 minutes to fill up the tank. I bought and installed some 1-1/4" clear fuel cell filler hose for $22. Although it was smaller, the hose also slipped right over the 1-1/2" end at the filler cap assembly. Note that the hose clamps are not in place in the photos. They are now. Can now fill-up the truck full speed.




Looking up towards the wheel tub mounted filler cap assembly.



Looking towards the back of the fuel tank.

[dsraven]

looks good.
a quick word on the clear hose. I have used the clear vinyl hose for fuel before and it will turn yellow and go rock hard over time. like a year. that's with fuel sitting in the hoe though. maybe good to use as a temp deal or for test fitting but if you are thinking long term you may wannna replace it with a fuel grade hose. wouldn't want that hose to crack and break off. there is a check valve in the fill on the tank, I think, but still gonna get messy and dangerous.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks good.
a quick word on the clear hose..... I have used the clear vinyl hose for fuel before and it will turn yellow and go rock hard over time. like a year....

I have the same concerns. Sold as vent hose and filler neck hose. Fortunately, the fuel won't be sitting in the hose for prolong periods. I'll keep an eye on it while I look for 60" of real fuel rated hose.

[dug224]

The list is getting shorter and the truck has officially reached "Daily Driver" status! Now looking at correcting the front left tire rub. Sharp turns to the right in forward or reverse has the tire occasionally touching the inside of the fender. With all the careful measuring and placement of the body on the frame, it looks like I still managed to install the front clip a little less than 3/8" to the right (passenger side) which appears to be the reason the left tire is touching. I'll see what I can do with a hammer and dolly to open it up a bit.


This photo posted just for the hell of it.

[67Mal]

Love it!
Just in time for house work/yard work.