Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Dan,
I removed everything from my firewall except the hinge holes. I also filled the dimmer switch hole, moved it inside the cab, higher up on the floor, using a factory bead in the floor to center it on so the wiring lays in it.

Ah, excellent idea. Why higher up? Just to align with this factory bead?

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

I also used the elevator bolts to replace the holes that the factory firewall cover was mounted with the push through fasteners.

Hmmm, hadn't considered this. Not to be dumb but is the factory firewall cover even necessary if I apply Dynamat or Peel 'N Seal? I plan to carpet over that of course.

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Don't remember where I saw it but have seen the stock e-brake handle used with a Lokar cable.

Man, your memory is worse than mine. You can't remember this OR where you got your old rear leaf spring relocation kit? (Kidding!)

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

You should also reworked the hole for the steering column while you're at it!

I will if necessary but WHY is it necessary? I don't know the final position of my column because I'm actually doing the cosmetic work before all the mechanical work is finalized. Yes, I know that's bass awkward. But the new ididit column is bound to go in the same "line" the factory one went through, right? I knew I'd have to make closure plates for around it, but again that will be covered with carpet. So why is reworking it necessary?

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Good luck!

Thanks JJ, means a lot coming from all you guys. Most people think guys like us have a slight mental problem. Nice to know there are guys who share my affliction and even appreciate it! Ha ha ha.

[ChuckDriver]

Yea, just wanted it up higher out of the way, and the bead was a good spot for the wiring.

No need for the pad bolts if you don't want the factory pad. Dynamat works well.

I filled the column hole so it looked better from the engine side.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

...I filled the column hole so it looked better from the engine side.

Hadn't thought of that. Good point.

If I fill it entirely and then paint it I'll have to use a hole saw and it'll leave an unpainted edge. But I could use a stainless steel collar on both sides of the firewall and if polished it'll look good. Now, where to find such a collar?

[ChuckDriver]

Picked mine up from Juliano's Hot Rod Parts.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

[Russell Ashley]

"Don't remember where I saw it but have seen the stock e-brake handle used with a Lokar cable."
Might have been mine. I'm using my stock handle with Control Cable cables from front to back. I removed all of the original e-brake hardware, or at least what was left of it. The cables make a neater arrangement I think.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Picked mine up from Juliano's Hot Rod Parts.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

JJ, That looks sharp, thank you. The link doesn't work though.

Did you weld the original hole fully shut then cut a new hole once you finalized its location? Cause that's what I'd have to do now and cover the raw edges with this nice collar.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

"Don't remember where I saw it but have seen the stock e-brake handle used with a Lokar cable."
Might have been mine. I'm using my stock handle with Control Cable cables from front to back. I removed all of the original e-brake hardware, or at least what was left of it. The cables make a neater arrangement I think.

Russ,
Thanks. Any photos? Part numbers and how you adapted cables to the OEM handle and the routing you used?
.

[ChuckDriver]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

JJ, That looks sharp, thank you. The link doesn't work though.

Did you weld the original hole fully shut then cut a new hole once you finalized its location? Cause that's what I'd have to do now and cover the raw edges with this nice collar.

Yes, I used the rounded edge of the mount to align with the stamped curve of the upper factory opening.

http://www.julianos.com/

[Dan in Pasadena]

I Today's update:

Passenger side kick panel repair is welded in an preliminary grinding done. Painter was taking a break when I showed up to drop off some Rust Bullet I had. He'll use it on the inner cab corners as they're not holed through, just have some surface rust. Anyway:


Same corner but on the outside. Filler just applied and I was very pleased to see it is very thin and hasn't even been sanded yet.



I told him to weld shut the steering column hole, the stock parking brake rod hole, and to remove the square dash reinforcement nuts. I explained the elevator bolt replacement and took one of the bolts off so I'd know the size (5/16-18 Coarse). I stopped off at OSH but they didn't have elevator bolts. I'm wondering if Home Cheapo will or do I have to go to a specialty fastener place?

Once he does those additional things he told me he'll move to the rear of the cab where there's two 1/2" holes for an old antenna on the passenger side and a rough 1/2" gouge hole on the driver's side. Who knows what could have caused it. It's between the cab and bed so the bed had to be off the truck at some point. It's invisible from the inside because it happens to be right over one of the rib reinforcements on the back wall.

[Kim57]

Looking good.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

Yes, I used the rounded edge of the mount to align with the stamped curve of the upper factory opening.

http://www.julianos.com/

Thanks JJ, excellent how-to tip. Assuming your height and mine aren't all that different (I'm 5'-10") that ought to work fine for me too as I'm putting in an ididit tilt column. Do you recall what length your column is? Mine's 32" I think.

[Dan in Pasadena]

A little update. Stopped by body shop and saw that they were sanding some filler applied to the firewall hole patches:


Also noticed they'd welded in and planished the repair metal for the gas filler hole I provided to them:


Everything looking good so far. I'm going to be out of town next week so new photos will be a couple weeks in coming.

[Kim57]

Looks like they're making good progress.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yup, thanks Kim. I'm pleased.

There were two guys hand sanding the firewall when I got there. They stepped out of the way for the picture but got right back to it. Painter said he would re-primer it as soon as they got the sanding done.

[rgunlock]

Good to see that they are doing a fine job for you Dan!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Hmm, just posted a response and it disappeared into the ether, I guess!

Opinions please!

Painter told me he planned to spray the cab floor/firewall with a textured bedliner/noise reducer type product and I told him not to since I intend to apply Dynamat, Peel'n Seal or some such product. Now I'm re-thinking this. Is this a subject where if "a little is good, more is better"? Or is it a waste of effort (and likely money)?
PS: I DID agree to have him spray the underside of the cab floor with this product.

[bowt1ed]

Yeah Dan, I've been giving this the same consideration (actually posted it). My current thoughts are that the spray/roll on products (Lizard, Hippo, etc.) would only make the sheet metal more solid/sturdy, all while reducing noise and heat. Interested in hearing more thoughts on it. Cheers, Jim

[ChuckDriver]

I would have the underside sprayed, then do the Dynamat on the inside.

I'll get you the column length next week!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

I would have the underside sprayed, then do the Dynamat on the inside.

I'll get you the column length next week!

Thanks JJ,
I bought a new but never installed ididit column from Craigslist and now I'm wondering if I bought too soon? I THINK it's either a 31" or 32" and I know it matters for sure if it's a '57-'59 with their dished steering wheels, but is it quite so critical with the '55-'56 flat style steering wheel?

I've already told the painter to do the underside of the cab and not the interior. My thinking was the Dynamat (or whatever product I use) will adhere better directly to the metal than on top of a coating. Of course going without potentially saves me a few bucks so that's a plus. Anyone else have an opinion or experience?

[dubie]

Just from a painters perspective Dan, I would coat the bare metal in the cab and then adhere your Dynomat. Or kill 2 birds with 1 stone and do a coating of lizard skin ti kill the sound and coat the metal

[BIGglaSS]

Epoxy is the best thing for bare metal to prevent future rust. Think of it as the glue for something else to stick to.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

Epoxy is the best thing for bare metal to prevent future rust. Think of it as the glue for something else to stick to.

Already done, but thanks for the advice.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'm sitting poolside on the last day of my vacation for the year and with the clarity I only seem to get when I DON'T have the office and others distractions to think about I was thinking about the sequence of rebuilding my truck.

I've been thinking right along I need to get on the frame and start installing the IFS, C notch the rear, etc. But on reconsideration I realize the bodyshop will shortly be done to the primer level on my cab, so he'll be asking for either my doors or my bed. I need to strip the windows and mechanisms from the doors and also finish patching the speaker holes I started literally years ago and never finished! Otherwise he'll have to do it and that'll cost $$$.

Then the bed. I plan to pull the fenders off but I'm questioning if I should totally disassemble the bed? If I don't and have it blasted the edges where sides and front/rear panels come together never get cleaned - BAD.
If I leave it assembled I won't have to worry about reassembly scratches and out-of-square conditions either - GOOD, but I also want polished stainless fasteners holding it together, not painted bolts/nuts. So I guess that all adds up to blowing it apart and "while I'm at it" welding shut the holes the original owner put in to bolt on a shell and repairing one rust-through spot in the front panel bed roll. I still haven't decided whether I'm welding shut the side panel bed rolls. It seems like a "standard" thing for most of you but eh...I don't know. Opinions welcomed.

[Advanced Design]

I vote for disassembly of the bed and being thorough enough with repairs so that you will always be happy with it. And problems are less likely to crop up later after paint. Just a few more hours invested for many years of being happy with the results is a good return.

[Daze57]

i agree ^ You will be much happier in the long run if you tear it apart and get it done .