1972 Chevy 4wd Longhorn Project: Never Ending Changes

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

No pics, but I did manage to get the new to me weather stripping on the cab. If anyone wants an upgrade from the glue on factory crap, use door seals from a 87-96 (before they changed the body style) Dodge Dakota. You will need to cut off about 3" or so, but the stuff holds it self on because it has a metal clamp inside it. You go to a junk yard and find 2 good used seals, clean them up, re crimp the channel and install on to your cab. Works so much nicer than taping and gluing the factory stuff!

Good to know for us cheap, broke folks!

[1985-GMC]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

They're doing good Nate! Nope, he was born April 11th this year. He's doing pretty good. How about your family?

Hey cool, that's my birthday!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Good to know for us cheap, broke folks!

Yep. I got 3 door seals from a u pull it yard for $16.85.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 1985-GMC

Hey cool, that's my birthday!

Well cool deal and Happy Late Birthday!

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

They're doing good Nate! Nope, he was born April 11th this year. He's doing pretty good. How about your family?

Wow.... time is getting away from me.

We've been doing good if we can get of this crud we've had for two weeks now. Have to meet up with you in 2013 and see the expanding family.

[mosesburb]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

No pics, but I did manage to get the new to me weather stripping on the cab. If anyone wants an upgrade from the glue on factory crap, use door seals from a 87-96 (before they changed the body style) Dodge Dakota. You will need to cut off about 3" or so, but the stuff holds it self on because it has a metal clamp inside it. You go to a junk yard and find 2 good used seals, clean them up, re crimp the channel and install on to your cab. Works so much nicer than taping and gluing the factory stuff!

I did this and went back to the glue on stuff. I laid mine out so the seam ended up at the bottom of the door opening. That put some of the areas that the Dakota door "squished" in areas on my doors that didn't "squish" as much leaving small gaps that flowed air at high speed, but more importantly water--even when sitting still. Not saying yours will, but it is something to check out so you don't end up with wet shorts on a rainy day. Your weatherstrip may be better than what we get out here because it hasn't been on the surface of the sun its whole life.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

because it hasn't been on the surface of the sun its whole life.

ain't that the truth. you guys have it even worse, and im not sure how thats possible!

[72-c20]

one thing to bear in mind with using the Dodge weather strip, is that you actually switch sides. dodge drivers side to Chevy pass side...

Chevy has rounded door rear corner and sharp point at A pillar. Dodge is opposite.

I've done this on mine with good luck... after 4 years, the JY weatherstrip finally started getting some bad spots so I got another...

[SS Tim]

The only advantage (other than cost) of used w strips is the fact that they have shrunk. If you do buy new strips make sure you put them in long. By this I mean really compress it in along the bottom lengthwise to make up for the inch or so that is going to shrink out. The advantage with the self retaining strip is it can be repositioned to make up for radius bridging by shrinkage over time if you allow for it.

[fakerwade]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

No pics, but I did manage to get the new to me weather stripping on the cab. If anyone wants an upgrade from the glue on factory crap, use door seals from a 87-96 (before they changed the body style) Dodge Dakota. You will need to cut off about 3" or so, but the stuff holds it self on because it has a metal clamp inside it. You go to a junk yard and find 2 good used seals, clean them up, re crimp the channel and install on to your cab. Works so much nicer than taping and gluing the factory stuff!

Brilliant!!!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 72-c20

one thing to bear in mind with using the Dodge weather strip, is that you actually switch sides. dodge drivers side to Chevy pass side...

Chevy has rounded door rear corner and sharp point at A pillar. Dodge is opposite.

I've done this on mine with good luck... after 4 years, the JY weatherstrip finally started getting some bad spots so I got another...

Huh, I used the same side from the Dakota to the Chevy with no issue. I'll have to take pics and post it up.

[Dieselwrencher]

Here is the weather stripping.




Ventshade



Gauge Pod fitment

[72-c20]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Huh, I used the same side from the Dakota to the Chevy with no issue. I'll have to take pics and post it up.

it will work for whichever side fine, but it seemed to lay better if you could match up the sharp corners...

[woodwright]

Rockauto has new Dakota weather stripping for $19 per side.

They've also got the 67-72 chev ones for $34 for both.

[Dieselwrencher]

Here is a little progress on the truck box. 90% of the bolts are in the bed and I got the gap at the tail gate opening pretty decent. The floor patch doesn't match the bed floor, so it is really interesting to get the pieces lined up and welded. It isn't going to be perfect, but it will be a 8' 6" steel floor.

[ryanroo]

that looks fun!

[jbclassix]

Hey Ryan,

What spline input is your 205?

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

that looks fun!

You know it!

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Hey Ryan,

What spline input is your 205?

Dodge Diesel NV4500 4x4 and Getrag G360 4x4 output shafts are 29 spline. The manual NP205 used in the first gens are 29 spline. I'm using a NP241DHD which is 29 spline as well.

[woodwright]

Originally Posted by woodwright

Rockauto has new Dakota weather stripping for $19 per side.

They've also got the 67-72 chev ones for $34 for both.

Didn't mean to sound like a Rockauto salesman. Sorry

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by woodwright

Didn't mean to sound like a Rockauto salesman. Sorry

That's quite alright. Thanks for the heads up. If I like the dakota seals I'll purchase new ones. I have 2 sets of the chevy style right now. I really didn't want to mess with glueing it on and wanted to give the dakota seals a shot.

[Rabrantes2011]

What turbos are you running on your truck? Your twin setup looks really similar to the ATS Aurura Twin Turbo Kit, is that where you got the idea?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Midgets50]

hi all,
Ryan, i heard you were the diesel guy of this forum and ive seen all the impressive work you've done on this build. ive got a question but i might not have all the needed details. ive got a k2500 79 GMC and i want to put a diesel in it. swapping out the motor and tranny but still keeping it 4x4 would i be able to use my current chevy axles or would i have to swap them out also?

[ryanroo]

you could keep them, and depending on what you are doing with the truck the front d44 may be ok. with a similar sized I6 diesel in a 73 K20 my dad has wiped the front R&P in his at least twice. with all the added weight it will wear out the ball joints sooner as well. i would try to find a dana 60 for the front if i was you.

[Midgets50]

ok thanks for the advice ill have to see what i can find on that

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

you could keep them, and depending on what you are doing with the truck the front d44 may be ok. with a similar sized I6 diesel in a 73 K20 my dad has wiped the front R&P in his at least twice. with all the added weight it will wear out the ball joints sooner as well. i would try to find a dana 60 for the front if i was you.

That pretty much sums it up. You can run a big hub D44, but eventually you will want to upgrade to a D60. What trans do you plan on running? Auto or manual?