SkinnyG's '61 Apache

[350TacoZilla]

It's all coming together now man! Can't wait to hear about first trip out.

[SkinnyG]

Rad and fan installed and wired:

[SkinnyG]

Working through one of the parts I really enjoy. Sorting out and stripping down the LS harness:

[SkinnyG]

Taking a bit of a break from wiring, I plumbed the trans cooler lines to the rad and external cooler and back, I had to use a compression coupler as I couldn't do it all in one piece:



Then I finished fabricating the A/C lines. Out of the firewall:



Into the compressor. I had to relocate the Low Pressure fitting on this generic hose kit:



Also trial fitting the Methanol Injection tank:



And mounted and plumbed the manual boost controller:

[SkinnyG]

PCM is mounted behind the stereo in the middle of the dash. I made a bracket that works with an under-dash AC bracket I made, all using existing holes.









A/C is all connected, and currently (finally) holding a vacuum (the exceedingly cheap LS AC adapters were pretty junk, and the seals they came with were garbage). Frankly a surprise, since I cut and welded many of the hose ends to have the angle I wanted.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

A/C is all connected, and currently (finally) holding a vacuum (the exceedingly cheap LS AC adapters were pretty junk, and the seals they came with were garbage). Frankly a surprise, since I cut and welded many of the hose ends to have the angle I wanted.

I know the feeling, even though I didn't hack up my hoses. I did have to have all three crimped on one end locally, since my A/C was a little non-standard. I was thrilled and relieved when it held vacuum.

Sounds like you are getting really close...

[SkinnyG]

I bought everything to fabricate my entire AC for about $300US. All of it. I crimped my own hoses, fabricated my own brackets, and I reaLly like this under-dash unit, though I fear it's going to be a noisy useless piece of trash; it WAS cheap...

[Arne]

That's great. A great deal, if it works at all. Mine will blow in the mid-30s at the vents, but I spent about 6 times what you did.

[SkinnyG]

Charged the AC with one can of oil, and what was left of a can of R12a. Haven't checked pressure since. Need to source a low pressure switch. My AC kit(s) came with a trinary switch, which serves as a high and low pressure switch, AND can turn on a fan. The PCM seems to want a HP input and a LP input, and allegedly can control a fan itself. I think it might be better to feed it what it wants.

I started wrapping the down pipe in header wrap, but truthfully I need a whole lot more than the 15' that came with the turbo blanket. On 4" sewer pipe with 1/4" overlap, that only covers about 26" of pipe, and I need a whole lot more than that.

Also mounted the Meth tank and pump and plumbed the nozzle.

[Arne]

I'm using a trinary switch on my truck as a secondary trigger for the fan controller, and it works well. The one I have only activates the fan if the high side pressure exceeds 227 psi. I'm getting vent temps in the mid-30s with this set up.

Trinary Safety Switch specs:
Low is off @ 28psig - and on @ 29psig
High is off @ 454psig - and on @ 369psig
Fan is on @ 227psig - and off @ 185psig

[SkinnyG]

I think the Trinary Switch is genius.

I'm just not exactly sure how the LS computer uses the information it would otherwise get from the two inputs. In theory, it would increase idle speed and run fans, but I don't know for sure. What PCM are you using??

[Arne]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

What PCM are you using??

Uh, none. Edelbrock 4 bbl on a Performer manifold. Most of my truck is rather old school.

I did consider sticking with a normal binary switch, and wiring the compressor trigger to the fan controller, that way the fan would come on whenever the compressor was engaged. But the trinary switch seems to be a smarter way to run it.

[SkinnyG]

I'm having trouble locating a simple LP switch that can connect to my drier. Golly I've searched.

I may just run the Trinary I have on the low side, and use the factory High Pressure on the compressor itself - I don't expect the Low Pressure side is going to ever see the 377psi the switch will shut off at. I imagine the High Pressure switch will have done its job long ago.

[SkinnyG]

Often with carb & A/C, you use a "step up" solenoid on the throttle to raise the idle speed when the A/C is engaged.

[SkinnyG]

Header wrap and a turbo blanket. If you've ever done insulation, you know how this feels on your skin. It took a full 50' roll for the down tube.

[SkinnyG]

Ran the wires into the cab, had to cut the factory wiring opening a bit larger. I will likely use one of these split seals.





Chugging my way through details of the wiring



I made brackets that will attach to the steering colum bracket mounts, one for a fuse and relay box, and another for the drive-by-wire module.



Also added the OBD2 port, accessible but tucked out of the way.

[caseyjones]

Nice detailed work. I’m always amazed by the bulk of the harness on a modern engine.

[Braunschweiger]

Yes, a lot of detailed work, I'm also amazed at the amount of wires. Am very curious about progress.

[SkinnyG]

Wiring up the fuse/relay box I got off Amazon.

A bit of a challenge figuring out how I'm going to feed it all, and then I noticed the "optional equipment" in the American Auto Wire kit. The fuse box already has some high current circuits for things like Power Seats (I'll use for PCM), Power Windows (I'll use for Starter Relay), Cruise Control (don't need; done by PCM), AC (I need that), Fuel Pump (I need that).

This is actually super, super helpful!

Just excited to share, y'all.

[SkinnyG]

Wiring wiring wiring.

Finished up wiring the AC system.

Running wires to the starter and alternator.

Wiring the Classic Instruments gauge cluster.

Wiring an alarm system.

Wiring the OBD2 port.

No pictures, because it's just.....

[SkinnyG]

Exciting news!

I got the PCM to wake up, and my scan tool works. 5 codes, which are basically that the four O2s and the Evap are not connected.

Now to download the tune with HPTuners.

[SkinnyG]

Interestingly, I cannot run 3-bar on this P59 ECU.

Oh well.....

[SkinnyG]

Tidying up wiring under the hood and under the dash.

Heat-wrapped and ran the oil pressure and coolant temp wires for the Gauge Cluster.

Wired the courtesy lights.

Wired most of the alarm system, just need to add door pins switches.

Wired the Methanol Injection system, and placed but did not wire the "active" and "low juice" lights.

Wired the linelock. Need to pick a MOMSW. The kit came with one, but I don't want some nasty-butt button on the column shifter. I figure a foot switch would be classier. Do we NEED a light to tell me it's on? I mean, if I'm pressing the button and it's holding, it's probably on.

Need to get a replay for the cooling fan, but all the wires and connectors are now there.

[joesscamaro]

You sound busy and productive. What kind of courtesy light door switch are you going to go with? I'm not contributing a lot to your thread but I am always looking and reading your updates. Thanks for being consistent.

[SkinnyG]

THESE, once I figure out how to mount them.