SkinnyG's '61 Apache

[SkinnyG]

Latest Video:

Fixing Door Latches - YouTube

[SkinnyG]

Trial fit to feel good.

[SkinnyG]

Finally decided on where the battery is going to go. For that, we need a mount!

First, in Fusion360:

[joesscamaro]

Cool video on the door latch mechanism...thanks for sharing.

For your battery tray, are you going to going to just mount it to a frame rail? Have you thought about one of the trays that drops down and then you can stow it back up once the battery is in it?

[SkinnyG]

This will be mounted to the frame rail. My intention with it is simply unbolt the whole bracket, drop it, and remove the battery.

Now cut it out of steel:

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

This will be mounted to the frame rail. My intention with it is simply unbolt the whole bracket, drop it, and remove the battery.

Now cut it out of steel:

My duallys setup is similar in intent but different in execution.

I bolted in two vertical uprights to have 'guides' for the batt box/tray to attach to.

The vertical uprights of the batt box/tray have 3/8" square nuts welded on the inside & the uprights bolted to the frame have slightly oversize 1/2" holes drilled in them.

You can muscle the batt (bolted into the box/tray) up into place by hand, but I found the AGM 34/78 batt was a wee bit heavier vs the standard lead/acid type I used for testing/validation.

I just put a fresh batt in & did the install w/a floor jack. Batt/box/tray slides up between the two frame guides. Adjust the height until I can get the 4x 3/8" bolts in place through the uprights into the box/tray. Tighten the hardware.

Your set-up is def more appealing to the eye vs. mine that's for sure. Having stuff laser or waterjet cut sure makes a difference.

[SkinnyG]

I actually recently ran across a thread where you shared the battery mount in your squarebody!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I actually recently ran across a thread where you shared the battery mount in your squarebody!

I was going to mount it like your plan. I drilled the holes in the frame but found it cumbersome to get the bracket aligned w/the battery in place. So... Plan-B was mounting the 'guides' (1.5" x 3/16 angle) to the frame & running the box/tray bolts through the extended material on them. That made things much easier for me during install/removal validations.

Those AMG batteries feel a lot heavier (~10# ?) vs the lead/acid one I used initially for testing things.

[SkinnyG]

I am confident enough that I have the in-cab wiring done, that I wrapped the wiring.

A while back I bought one of these trinkets - freaking awesome for troubleshooting, but ALSO for initial testing of circuits:



My truck came with a later 2-speed wiper/washer switch in the glovebox. I still have the 1-speed motor, but chucked the single-speed knob in the lathe and drilled a 3/16" hole through the center, and I machined a wee 3/16" "button" with a 1/4" shoulder, back drilled to fit the switch pin. Now I have a washer button!

The wipers do work - do they always operate a little "disconnected" from each other? I mean, they do their thing, I was just hoping for more symmetry.

I installed pin-switches for the courtesy lights (and alarm). That was tricky fishing the wire out through the hole. Works, anyway.

Also added a toggle switch for the air ride compressors. I mounted the switch inside the "ashtray" which I altered to house the air ride pressure gauges.

Ran alternator power and fuse panel power lines. Also bought a wack of 1ga wire to go to the battery, now that I've decided where to mount it.

Now I need it back in the air to run the wires underneath.

So much work; so much to do.

[Braunschweiger]

They are doing a fantastic job,
I can't wait to see the truck running.

[SkinnyG]

I meant to powdercoat this, but had extra primer in the gun already:

[SkinnyG]

The truck came with a later windshield washer equipped wiper switch in the glopvebox. Good luck finding the 60-63 knob with a button. So I made one out of the existing knob:

[Braunschweiger]

Thanks for showing me,
I was already wondering how my wiper system is supposed to work, I'll probably take over your patent. Thanks for that.

[SkinnyG]

Shoulder is 1/4" OD, pin (button) is 3/16" OD. Drilled in the back one size bigger than 1/16" to slip over the pin. No real measurements, cut to fit.

I still have the one-speed motor, but one of the pins is "hot" in both speed positions, so that one goes to the motor. The switch has two positions, but the speeds are the same between the two.

[SkinnyG]

Taillights are wired, as is a trailer light plug.

Battery mount is set in place near the back of the frame under the bed. Positive cable is done. Need more #2 wire for a decent ground.

Air ride compressors are now hooked up, run through a relay and a pressure switch. Looks like the pressure switch is 200PSI. That should be fun.

Stereo amp wiring is run up to the cab.

[SkinnyG]

Air lines, and stereo amp wire plumbed into cab. Need more DOT hose to plumb the air ride gauges.

[SkinnyG]

Air ride works. Two Viair 400's drain the battery fast. One air leak that I'll need to fix.

I ran -8 from the tank through a bulkhead fitting into the cab, into a log that splits into four 1/4" lines to manual valves, T'd to a gauge and run to each bag. It actually lifts quite satisfactorily. At 200psi in the tank.

[joesscamaro]

If you have a chance, I'd love to see that bulkhead/log fitting that you mentioned running into your cab with. That took a bit of mapping out on my truck as I ran each individual line inside my cab and trying to make sure the air lines were tucked out of the way from heat sources. Turned out fine but running one in to that splitter sounds like a good option.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Air ride works. Two Viair 400's drain the battery fast. One air leak that I'll need to fix.

I ran -8 from the tank through a bulkhead fitting into the cab, into a log that splits into four 1/4" lines to manual valves, T'd to a gauge and run to each bag. It actually lifts quite satisfactorily. At 200psi in the tank.

I need higher psi switches on my dually. The 120# limit is barely adequate for that heavy front end. It's on the current 'list-o-things'....

[SkinnyG]

Manual paddle valves for reliability and simplicity. Modified an -8AN bulkhead fitting to be a bit shallower. The gray is etching primer over the drilled holes. You are asking about the 4-into-1 manifold.

[SkinnyG]

Making Bumper Brackets - YouTube

[SkinnyG]

Fabricating a Fuel Filler - YouTube

[SkinnyG]

Windshield squirter didn't squirt.

Had to fabricate a new button - the button wasn't able to push far enough.

Here is what worked:

3/4" long
1/4"OD shoulder 1/16" thick, drilled 1/8"DIA only 1/8" deep
3/16" shaft for the remainder, rounded tip.

Drill the non-squirting knob 3/16" right through the center. And, like, use a lathe for this.

[SkinnyG]

Wiring is done.

Stereo is in and working

Cooling system holds water.

I've been over-thinking the engine oil cooler for three years. Today I bent up two little mounting brackets, and once they come out of the powder coating, the cooler will be ready to hang.

I -think- all I need to do is throw in a new battery, pressure test the fuel system, pressurize the oil system, and it should run.

I'm scared spitless.

[caseyjones]

It’s gonna be so awesome!