Danny Boy is BAACK! w/ '55 Big Window

[Dan in Pasadena]

Kickass bike! Hard tail - it's gotta be thigh on the kidneys!

Rudy, Sorry to hear about your health issues. I hope you're feeling better and STAY that way! Best, Dan

[Dan in Pasadena]

Update for the record:

Took the rear fenders off the bed today and delivered them to the sand blaster. Boy, was THAT a pain in the neck!

I'd soaked the bolts with penetrant several times over the last few weeks and a few of them came loose relatively easily. The rest either broke or the clutch head "stripped" - for lack of a better term. I had to use a cut off wheel to remove 4-5 bolts and that wasn't too easy without damaging some of the braces and of course without damaging the fender. I had to cut them through about 1/2-3/4 and then physically break them with pliers.

The good news is there was NO rust through, even in the joint between the fender and side step - which I think is fairly unusual.

This rust looks worse than it is. It's just on the surface. I scraped the lip and what was left of some rattle can (I assume) undercoating inside the fender and it came off pretty clean.


Closeup of the fender lip. Looks terrible but it's really not bad.

[Kim57]

Looks like they will clean up real nicely.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Not sure if I should ask this here or in a separate thread but here goes:

I want the SIDE bed wood strips to be polished stainless. I've seen the covers they sell - does anyone have experience and pictures of them? Would you recommend them?

I know I can cut off my factory spot welded ones and replace with bolted on "real" polished stainless strips, maybe this is the better looking option?

[47 Fasttoys]

Hugger Orange you say? I got that color too.
Rob

[Baldeagle SR]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Not sure if I should ask this here or in a separate thread but here goes:

I want the SIDE bed wood strips to be polished stainless. I've seen the covers they sell - does anyone have experience and pictures of them? Would you recommend them?

I know I can cut off my factory spot welded ones and replace with bolted on "real" polished stainless strips, maybe this is the better looking option?

Dan I don't have any good photos of my stainless corner strips but I really like the way they finish the bed off, You can check my build for a photo http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=576185&page=4
Rich

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Rich,
The only picture of yours that shows them is post #95 on page 4 and I can't tell if they're the cover type or you replaced the factory side strips with real stainless one. Which is it?

[Baldeagle SR]

Dan those are the cover type that sets on top. Rich

[Dan in Pasadena]

Maybe I should start a new thread in bed side strips!

[Kim57]

Those are in great shape.
Kim

[Advanced Design]

They are. In this part of the country those are considered mint.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Yes, I'm very pleased.

I feel bad for the guys that have to start from what would be considered unusable or parts trucks here. But on the other hand, it's incredible what they manage to produce from those trucks!

[Dan in Pasadena]

March 23, 2016

This week's update is that the Altman latch kit I bought probably 1-1/2 yrs ago has been installed. Both latches work flawlessly but I have questions for those that have already installed them. I'll post a separate thread on that if I can't find info via search.

The rear fenders were blasted clean as shown in post 1215 above, the small cancer areas on the bolt flanges were cut out and replaced - but I forgot to take pics, DOH!

They've been primed with direct-to-metal primer and the minor dents bumped out. When I arrived the top of both fenders were in their first filler and though it looks kinda thick the painter assured me the fenders only had minor waviness, no true "dents" and after blocking 90% of the filler will be on the floor.

I've gone back to my original idea of using a dark red. When I told the painter I am choosing among Viper, late VW, Honda/Acura or Nissan non-metallic reds he seemed pleased. When I told him my original idea had been to use Porsche Guards Red I could tell by the look on his face he DIDN'T like that color at all. He's got a '40 Ford pickup in the shop in a very deep dark green that is gorgeous so I know he has a soft spot for darker, more era-themed colors.
Feel free to offer opinions

[ChuckDriver]

Can't wait to see it in Red!

[Kim57]

These trucks look real good in red.
Kim

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks Kim and JJ.

I guess red is kinda trite, there are a lot of them in red. But there are a lot for a reason I guess, they look good in it. Anyway, I'm only trying to please myself and I want the truck of my dreams so red it will be!

[Rude Dude]

Red always looks good on these body styles

[ptc]

Coming along Danny! wow you must getting excited about getting it all done? Looks like quite a few truck will be coming to completion this year possibly !!!!

Hope mine is one one of them too - Im trying like hell, just hard to find good help!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ptc

Coming along Danny! wow you must getting excited about getting it all done? Looks like quite a few truck will be coming to completion this year possibly !!!!

Hope mine is one one of them too - Im trying like hell, just hard to find good help!

Best of luck.

Speaking of luck, my luck is that work has gotten so busy that if I want mine done I am having to pay to have more done than I really want. But I want it done before I retire next year and I still need to do the suspension work, new electrical, fuel and brake lines, yada, yada. Oh well.

[Rude Dude]

Dan
Here is the pics I PM you about

[Dan in Pasadena]

Rudy,
What am I misunderstanding? What is the purpose of this cross member? Is this reinforcement prior to removing the factory crossmember? Maybe you explained it in the PM and I misunderstood.

[Rude Dude]

Dan after you weld the Fatman Cross-member, and bolted this across into place you can then cut the stock cross-member out so the front frame rails stay in place (Pictured not welded together yet). The square tubing I am using is 1/8 inch thick wall tubing for hanging trans cooler or other stuff, or you can use round stock thick wall tubing your choice.

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Rudy,
What am I misunderstanding? What is the purpose of this cross member? Is this reinforcement prior to removing the factory crossmember? Maybe you explained it in the PM and I misunderstood.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

Dan after you weld the Fatman Cross-member, and bolted this across into place you can then cut the stock cross-member out so the front frame rails stay in place (Pictured not welded together yet). The square tubing I am using is 1/8 inch thick wall tubing for hanging trans cooler or other stuff, or you can use round stock thick wall tubing your choice.

Ah! Got it. It's so the frame ends don't twist. I think I'd use the same square tube because not only will it prevent movement but it COULD also be used for other things.

My first thought is maybe to conceal otherwise exposed wiring or some such. Besides, if I ever need to mount something on it, it's easier to mount on a flat surface than a round one. On the subject of mounting things, I want to mount my wiring and AC lines high in the wheel wells so there is nothing visible in the engine compartment. I plan to weld some elevator bolts (apologies to whoever posted about those, I forget).

[Rude Dude]

Dan maybe use longer bolts that hold fender to inner fenders and use electrical clamps with an added nut to secure the clamp. The bolts are at top of fender.

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ah! Got it. It's so the frame ends don't twist. I think I'd use the same square tube because not only will it prevent movement but it COULD also be used for other things.

My first thought is maybe to conceal otherwise exposed wiring or some such. Besides, if I ever need to mount something on it, it's easier to mount on a flat surface than a round one. On the subject of mounting things, I want to mount my wiring and AC lines high in the wheel wells so there is nothing visible in the engine compartment. I plan to weld some elevator bolts (apologies to whoever posted about those, I forget).

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

Dan maybe use longer bolts that hold fender to inner fenders and use electrical clamps with an added nut to secure the clamp. The bolts are at top of fender.

Ah, excellent idea! Better than mine, thanks.