1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[99 to Life]

issues are always an issue! Its all apart of what we do. My buddy has been trying to figure out his clutch for a month. Turns out they make a bunch of different size throw out bearings, I never knew that, so his drama is my lesson learned for free. Like yours like mine etc.

I'd suggest different offset rims and possibly even 14" rims. My same friend has the same problem as his car came with a camaro clip (I personally am not a fan).

As for timing vacuum method is a good idea, permitting no vacuum leaks. you could also advance the timing so much to where it almost won't start. Then back it off a degree each time. this way you know you gave it as much advance as it can handle. all depends on your cam, cylinder pressure etc. Don't follow the ol' give it 10* like a small block likes. Keep in mind, this is timing with vac advance disconnected. So say you are at 12 or 15* initial. Once you hook that vac up, it should put you more like 22-25* initial. Your total timing should be 32-36* so that means, when vac advance is disconnected, you rev engine to 3k or so and you should be maxed out around 32-36.
So give it as much advance as it will take and work off that. Very tiny adjustments.
Your initial timing or base timing (no vac) added to the mechanical timing (distributors springs) give you a total timing.

If going in unsure or blind, starting it up will be a huge tale of too much or little timing, then also turning it off (you may get diesling with too much timing). Vacuum method is a great method too. If you could pull 15-20hg at idle, that is good. Be careful though because your carb adjustments can effect vacuum. For example. turn your idle up and watch your vac go up.

[ptc]

Truck looks REAL!!!!


nice job!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by joedoh

looks great! does it ride better with alignment? did caster move the wheels back any?

The caster did move the wheels back a bit. I am about 2.5 degrees right now. Think I will take it to 4 or 5.

Ride is a lot better.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Timing, for starters, hook up a vacuum gauge adj. dist to highest reading and try that,....for starters!

This morning before work I unplugged the vacuum advance hose on the carb and hooked up my vacuum gauge. I was pulling about 10". I advanced the

Timing until I hit 15", and at that point I ran out of adjustment on the distributor. Idle was rough but I took it around the block. Better than before....but still not fixed.

I dug up some old pictures and found some of the original timing chain cover and timing tab and the new one. They both appear to be in close to the same place.

Current set up


Old set up

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Coach529

The caster did move the wheels back a bit. I am about 2.5 degrees right now. Think I will take it to 4 or 5.

Ride is a lot better.

Futurama: Fry's Woo - YouTube

[lower50's]

At least it's getting better.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by lower50's

At least it's getting better.

True, but I am still kind of befuddled.

[99 to Life]

if you really want to dial it in. Id do this. Take some spark plugs out, get a crank tool, or make one or you can roll it over by crank bolt (be careful). get a piston stop tool or make one. roll the engine over till it stops, make a mark on your damper. Roll it opposite way till it stops make a mark. Split those two marks and that is true TDC on your balancer. You can reference that with your timing tab and your dampers mark. Try timing it to your new marks if they differ from your damper. There are prolly some videos of how to do this process online. Not many people do this, but most racers will. With old dampers and those timing tabs, its easy to be off.

[Fiftee3]

Hey Coach,
Lookin very nice! Looks great lowered. Good luck gettin motor all dialed in. Im hoping my tires don't rub! I'm not that far yet. Happy 4th!

[RDrancher]

Nice ride Coach!

I see that you're using 235's / 215's and may have missed it, but are you running 7" wheels front and rear?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by RDrancher

Nice ride Coach!

I see that you're using 235's / 215's and may have missed it, but are you running 7" wheels front and rear?

7" in the front......8" in the back.

[RDrancher]

Thanks Coach. I had the "69's" on my Stude with bullets and trim rings. Love the wheels, and the sizing on yours just looks right.

[faribran]

99 to life, you are offering up some very good info. We all gain from this.

[faribran]

Coach, interesting older truck!

[Coach529]

Finally got a chance to put some miles on yesterday.

Put about 20 miles on the old guy without any drama. Lots of thumbs up around town.









Like I said....no real drama. Still some punch list stuff to figure out.

Those of you who are following along on the 47-55 page on Facebook know all about this damn Danforth Crossmember. After spending some time chatting with Steve Szymanski, the owner of Industrial Chassis Inc it was pretty clear this may never work the way it is supposed to. With the current T Bird Rack I have a horrible turning radius, and no Ackerman Effect. Steve was amazing in the explanation of the theory behind the steering geometry and possible solutions. It was very clear he has a wealth of knowledge and was very willing to lend a hand with no monetary gain.

Possible solutions include finding a rack with more travel, but it is unlikely I will ever get the turning radius I am looking for. Ackerman will always be an issue. The best solution may be using an S-10 steering set up mated to a center steer rack and pinion set up. After some digging on the interweb I found the pictures below.







This setup (Found on Killbillet) is a Intrepid rack on S-10 chassis.

The last straw would be to hack this thing off and install a M2 or a Dodge Dakota Crossmember from Industrial Chassis.

[solidaxel]

Many points for Steve and Industrial Chassis

In 2009 I was looking for a Mll X member for my 53 and went to visit IC and I got the sales/instruction pitch from Steve.
He convinced me that a truck needed a truck suspension and I ordered a Dodge from him that day

Never looked back and drive the truck as much as possible and have only had to tighten the PS belt once

I am sure you will get your truck to the finest handling possible with your knowledge and patience and will be enjoying your ride for many years.

Keep us posted !

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Many points for Steve and Industrial Chassis

In 2009 I was looking for a Mll X member for my 53 and went to visit IC and I got the sales/instruction pitch from Steve.
He convinced me that a truck needed a truck suspension and I ordered a Dodge from him that day

Never looked back and drive the truck as much as possible and have only had to tighten the PS belt once

I am sure you will get your truck to the finest handling possible with your knowledge and patience and will be enjoying your ride for many years.

Keep us posted !

He is definitely passionate and knowledgeable. We exchanged many messaged on Facebook and he was more than willing to answer all of my questions.

MK

[Advanced Design]

Steve sounds like a helpful guy and hopefully he can help you get your truck squared away.

So, there is a basic design issue with the Danforth crossmember?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Steve sounds like a helpful guy and hopefully he can help you get your truck squared away.

So, there is a basic design issue with the Danforth crossmember?

Yea the Danforth lacks engineering on the backside. After doing a lot of reading, GM metric cars and S-10's do not respond well to Rack and Pinion steering. Well documented issue.

[lower50's]

Congrats on the 20mi and get used to the thumbs up it will happen often and everywhere you have a sweet truck.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Congrats on the 20mi and get used to the thumbs up it will happen often and everywhere you have a sweet truck.

Got another 15 miles on last night.......

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Coach529

Got another 15 miles on last night.......

Seat time is the best way to debug and figure out what works and does not work well...Even though I have had my 48 done for years I found some new stuff during my 5 hr drive each way this past weekend...Some things don't surface until many miles down the road.

Marc

[Fiftee3]

Coach,
I too am running 8" and 7" rims.
Are the 235's hitting the inner tops of your fenders
Aired out? And, if you are running rear drums, do you know your width, drum face to face?
Thanks...my 255's hit
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[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Fiftee3

Coach,
I too am running 8" and 7" rims.
Are the 235's hitting the inner tops of your fenders
Aired out? And, if you are running rear drums, do you know your width, drum face to face?
Thanks...my 255's hit
Posted via Mobile Device

I am rear disc. Not exactly sure face to face measurement. 59" sticks in my head for some reason.

My tires come in contact with the inner fender brace at full air out.....but that is it.

[Fiftee3]

Thanks for quick reply. I'm gonna order the 235,s now.
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