S10 Frame Swap w/ AD and LS motor

[big_moss]

some good info on here man ill more than likely use the same motor mounts on mine when the time comes

[tlorber]

I got the steering wheel welded up. The epoxy will have to happen at a later time, since there are more pressing items right now.


I also modified my brake pedal. I wanted to enlarge it and shift it over to the right, so that it is closer to the accelerator. Here is the original location:



Before welding


After Welding


and here is the difference in sizes

[tlorber]

I finished up fabbing some outriggers for my cab dolly, so I was able to tip the cab forward.





Next order of business will be pressure washing, degreasing and rust proofing the bottom of the cab. This angle also makes it easier to do things inside the cab, like sanding the underside of the dash.

[tlorber]

Cab bottom is now rustproofed. I still have a couple holes I need to weld up and then paint over.



Next I need to deal with the interior of the cab. On the chassis I plan to start working on the fuel system. I will most likely ditch the in tank fuel pump and put a new one on the frame rail.

[Advanced Design]

Good work. Cab is looking nice.

[TimE]

Seems to be progressing nicely. Keep it up!

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by tlorber

Finally a bit of forward progress to report. This is the new cab mount system that AD Engineering has put together. I bought the prototype from Robert and got it installed. His goal was to make it a complete bolt in, but I will be burning in certain areas in order to reinforce.

He made this so that the cab can be installed for stock height or lowered by about 3". Since I am using drop spindles in front and lowering blocks in rear I am using the "stock" setting.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/i...attach/jpg.gif

I hope your cab is still off the frame as I need your help. Please check your mail box as I have sent a PM. Thanks, Clay

[tlorber]

I bought a new S10 fuel sender and then proceeded to chop it up. I am putting a pump from an '05 Silverado into it in order to get the needed pressure. I had to cut the bottom metal plate that the pump sits on since the "new" pump has a wider base. I also had to graft the electrical feed (harness) from the pump to the fuel sender.



This has been installed into the boiled out tank. I'm now working on bending/running fuel lines. I will be using a Corvette filter/regulator, so the return line (5/16") will feed back to the tank. I plan on keeping an evap system intact, so there will be a line running from the evap tank up to the purge solenoid, per the original LM7 setup.

[84blaze]

I used a Edelbrock 255lph on my S10 blazer 6.0L swap and it works perfectly. Got the kit from summit and it works with a stock s10 fuel sender. I plan to do the same thing on my 49' when I get to that point.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-17933

[50ish]

I am planning on keeping stock s10 fuel tank in stock location. Also planning on using some type of stock fuel pump module to supply my 5.3 LS. I hear that the stock 4.3 pump will deliver the pressure needed, but probably not the volume. I also read that the 2.2L flex fuel pump delivers both the volume and pressure and is basically a drop-in. Any thoughts on this?? Thanks

[tlorber]

I can't say for sure. I pulled out the stock pump and replaced it with the Silverado pump as I stated. I would be surprised if that stock pump actually got as high as 60 psi. I read somewhere it is in the teens. You will also need to make sure that your fuel lines will handle the increased pressure.

[tlorber]

I've pretty much gotten the fuel system done. I'll need to get the bed back on and cut through the bedside for the filler neck. Then I hope to start on the exhaust.

[BlueJeep]

Looks good!

[tlorber]

I got the engine harness labeled and stripped off the truck. Now comes the fun part of opening it up and removing what I don't need. I have 2 connectors on the harness that were not hooked up to anything on the motor. Maybe they were hooked up to the body harness of the original truck? I guess I'll have to figure that out later.



Also, I think I found a suitable location to mount the PCM. Its pretty tight under the dash, with the brake bracket, steering, accelerator pedal, and TAC Control Module (drive by wire). I'll post some pics when I mock it up.

[tlorber]

I've begun to open up the harness. My wife was nice enough to let me use the dining room table-which means I HAVE to finish this before Thanksgiving.



I also have decided where to locate the PCM. This will go between the firewall to dash rods.


I cut small notches in the back of the PCM housing so that it will stay between the rods. I will need to make some kind of bracket for the front part.

[tlorber]

So, I've been making some progress on my engine harness. As some of you may know many of the wires are either too long or too short if you decide to put the PCM inside the cab, so I have been working to cut, splice and solder to make them the appropriate length. Most of the wiring will go under the intake manifold.







I still have a few sensor/alternator wires to modify and then I can put the manifold back in place permanently. I also cleaned out my injectors, with the help of some YouTube videos, so hopefully there will be no issues with them.

[Advanced Design]

Kudos for taking on the wiring job! That's a good idea for PCM mounting.

[99 to Life]

yah looking good, big task. I like to get the mesh style loom, easier to deal with and keeps it cleaner. I find it on ebay, guys sell it in all sizes by roll or ft. i can't think of what the heck it is called right now. they sell split loom and full loom.

[tlorber]

Here are some pictures with the portion of the harness going under the manifold that is completed. I bought some special non adhesive harness tape to wrap the wires and attach the loom to them.



This one shows the looms attached to the webbing in the intake manifold.



I still have a bit of cleanup on the back of the harness to splice some of the key hot wires together and decrease the number of wires that will be running through the firewall.

On an unrelated note, I also cored through the bedside to run the gas filler tube through. This grommet is from a mid '70's Ford 150-350 TANK IN CAB truck, in case anyone has the same condition. The ID of this grommet is slightly larger (appx 1/8") larger than the OD of the filler tube, so I will eventually have to tack weld a collar onto the tube. I also need to have the tube spliced to the portion that goes into the gas tank, because the alignment was not correct. I will probably have that done at the same time I do the exhaust.

[tlorber]

Been a while since posting but I have been getting a few things accomplished. I'm trying to finish off my firewall so that I can Raptor Line it and then install brake bracket, booster, accelerator pedal etc. I also just received my reflashed PCM back from Brendan at LT1 Swap. However, it will be a while before I can fire up the engine.

I got some exhaust collectors and welded in the O2 sensor bungs.





That's about all I have photos of at this time.

[dug224]

Nice build...dug

[tlorber]

i got my firewall coated with Raptor Liner. This stuff is really easy to work with and gives a nice, uniform coat.



I plan on using it on the bed bottom (original S10 metal bottom) and on the running boards, when I get to that point.

[1952ssr]

I'm not sure what exact pressure needs a LS is vs an LT1 is but a Syclone fuel pump assembly will fit without any modification. That's what I'm using for my LT1 in a stock tank, but the tank has to be originally a fuel injected setup to work. The setup your using may cost less too.

Your wife is as nice as mine, she too let me use our dining room table to do the harness for my first build. We now have a basement so thankfully that's not necessary for my new build.

[05snopro440]

Originally Posted by 1952ssr

I'm not sure what exact pressure needs a LS is vs an LT1 is but a Syclone fuel pump assembly will fit without any modification. That's what I'm using for my LT1 in a stock tank, but the tank has to be originally a fuel injected setup to work. The setup your using may cost less too.

Your wife is as nice as mine, she too let me use our dining room table to do the harness for my first build. We now have a basement so thankfully that's not necessary for my new build.

The LT1 uses around 40PSI, where the LS uses closer to 60. You can't use an LT1 fuel pump setup for an LS, just not enough pressure.

[SPIFFAV8]

Tlorber....Thank You! I just purchased a 51 3/4 ton long bed and planned on doing the exact same S10, LS/4L60E swap. This will be a first for me and this thread will help a great deal. Greatly appreciates.

It's looking good.