Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build

[hgs_notes]

When I was removing the rear axle I needed to disconnect the line. The hard line twisted with the nut, so I had to cut it and replace.

This morning I made up some aluminum fuel lines from the pump to the regulator and carb. My first attempt at making hard lines for this, so hopefully it doesn't leak. I used brass compression fittings for a couple joints, flared the one end for the fuel pump, and will need to use a small piece of rubber tube connecting to the carb, at least for now. Pic later.

I got the mounts on and power steering pump on. I'm going to wait to install the engine until I get back from Mexico (work trip) next weekend.

[hgs_notes]

First is a couple pics of my fuel lines. I just need to put a couple clamps on and it is all set.



Now my own invention or twist for an adjustable track bar. I finally got it all together. I'm going to post directions on the main board I think. I'm kinda proud of it.

[msgross]

does it have to have the fuel regulator?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by msgross

does it have to have the fuel regulator?

On this engine, with this fuel pump, yes. I used it for years because the fuel pressure from the pump was pushing fuel past the needle and seat in the float bowl and flooding the engine. The carb was rebuilt and the problem persisted. I did some checking and the carb manufacturers have a range recommended for the pressure in their carbs, usually maxed out at about 5.5 psi for a street engine. Out of curiousity I put a gauge on it and was getting over 7 psi from my stock pump. I put the regulator on, set it at 5 psi and never again had problems. I didn't make any other changes. I tried going without the regulator again since last summer and was having issues. Not flooding, but unpredictable idle, and the engine would starve for fuel at times, then recover. So I put a test gage back on and watched it. The pressure was fluctuating up and down and the engine idle followed with it. I didn't think it would matter, because the fuel should be fed from the float bowl at atmospheric pressure, but it did change how it ran.

If my stock fuel pump put out the standard 4-5 psi, I wouldn't need it, as most cars don't. But the regulator solved a problem and it looks kinda cool.

I'm sure you know fuel injected cars have pressure regulators. You have to have a minimum pressure for the injectors to work correctly for atomizing the fuel and maintaining a specific calibration or flow rate. There are more sensors and computer controls that calibrate the air/fuel mix on the newer cars, but consistant pressure is important.

[msgross]

good info... that's what I was wondering since I noticed you had a carb and not FI...

[hgs_notes]

I wish I could say I got more done, but all I did was bolt the radiator support down and replaced the battery tray. I'm going to route the new gas line in the morning I think. I won't have much time tuesday, work all day and then my youngest girls softball games all evening.

Here's what I was working on this evening, I need to finish stripping it of usable parts this week so the rest can be scrapped.

[hgs_notes]

Work has been a killer the past couple weeks, but I got out tonight for a while and got the gas tank mounted and most of the fuel line clamped down. As a reminder, this is a tank from a 75 blazer. I used a couple strips of galvanized sheetmetal for the straps. I folded over each end for added strength.


The fuel line is 3/8" aluminum tubing from Summit. It's cheap and real easy to work with. Corrosion shouldn't be an issue. I still need about 3 or 4 tubing clamps and then it's just hooking it up with a couple pieces of rubber hose.

[hgs_notes]

No pictures today, but hardly needed. I finished the fuel line connections and clamps to the frame. I finished stabilizing the rear brake line, it was loose where the flexible hose bolts down to the axle. I replaced the lower radiator hose. I replaced the rear seal on the end of the transmission and installed the driveshaft.

The only work left on the back half is the shocks and I'm thinking of putting something on the rear differential vent hose to keep crap out. If anyone has an idea for that, please let me know. I was thinking about a small filter or something, maybe an offroader would have an idea.

I have a bucket of parts to drop off at the sandblaster, pulleys and brackets, etc. for the motor. I think I might have to buy some large washers for the cab mounts, mine were in bad shape. I already bought bolts, and the rubber mounts, but not the washers.

I'm going to be gone half the week again, but plan on taking vacation and a 4 day weekend this next week. I am planning on setting the new cab on the frame, finishing the motor accessories, maybe a fresh coat of rustoleum black on the radiator support.

I don't want to think past that stage. That's when I'll be getting into an area that's unfamiliar to me...body work.

[hgs_notes]

I've been gone this week again, but still had a small but important thing happen. I got a killer deal on some headers. I got these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HO...n/?prefilter=1
from a seller on ebay for $125 shipped. I'm real excited to see them. Hopefully they are as described. The seller has good feedback on these and other name brand items.

[1964C10]

Great build so far! Keep up the good work! On your Blazer tank do the cross sill need to be cut the way you have it setup? I checked the sizes on that tank and the website lists it at 10 3/4" tall with the bottom half 3 1/2" tall this would leave 7 1/4" going up from the bottom of the frame rails where the rails are 4" tall. Long story short I calculate that you need some sort of drop? Thanks for any info!

[msgross]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

Great build so far! Keep up the good work! On your Blazer tank do the cross sill need to be cut the way you have it setup? I checked the sizes on that tank and the website lists it at 10 3/4" tall with the bottom half 3 1/2" tall this would leave 7 1/4" going up from the bottom of the frame rails where the rails are 4" tall. Long story short I calculate that you need some sort of drop? Thanks for any info!

If it's sitting below the top fram rail then you should be fine with the bed cross sills. Unless your filler needs clearance somehow...


Check out tri-pro automotive's build "Project GPW", he used a little filter on the differential vent hose.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by msgross

Check out tri-pro automotive's build "Project GPW", he used a little filter on the differential vent hose.

Thanks for the tip Mike. I PM'd him. I do remember those vents, it's probably what put the idea in my head to begin with. There's a build I'd like to see get going again.

The other day I was driving home from Il through WI, there is a national guard base there. Anyway, I see a formation of 10 army copters flying over and I think of you. I don't know you outside the board here, but the little bits we see here can sometimes stick in the brain anyway. "Fly Army!"

[hgs_notes]

It's starting to look like a truck again. The cab is on with all new mounts.




That job took less than an hour. I worked all day moving things around the garage so I could roll it back inside and off the driveway. I don't have complaining neighbors or anything, but there are kids around that like to mess with stuff. No problems so far, but I'm glad it's inside now.

The garage is still packed full. I got the family out there to help me tip the bed up. It takes less space and it's easier to work on the bottom side like this. No real rust surprises anyway. Looks pretty good.

[hgs_notes]

I posted a thread on the main board yesterday with my concerns about this project stagnating. I have concerns that I'm getting to a point where I will stop and fret over what to do next. I really want to keep the momentum going, but can't really afford to have all the bodywork completed and the whole thing painted right now. I would like to get the inside of the cab, the door jambs, the window openings and firewall painted, but even that may be out of my price range now because I'm not real confident on doing the prep work myself. I have a cheap spray gun that may be ok for primer. My garage could work to spray in if I hauled out most of the parts so I had more room to move around. I never did plan on painting it myself, but would like to do as much prep as I can. Partly because of personal pride in the work, partly for cost savings.

This is new territory for me. I've never had a car repainted before, let alone a complete color change inside and out. I look at it now, knowing I need to start doing some sanding and filling, and I just don't know where to start. Any input would be appreciated.

As far as progress goes, I got my headers yesterday. I bought them direct from Holley Performance though their ebay store. There was no picture on the listing. I got them for a great price and don't have any regrets, YET. The finish was ceramic coated, but there is something on it that looks kinda like overspray, but may be dried up polishing compound from when they were built. Turns out they were on the shelf at Holley for the past 9 years. They are new, but not recently new. Anyway, it took me about an hour to clean up one of them, and I still have to do more on it. I finally figured out what will work, a green scrub pad and mothers mag polish, though another polish would probably work too. What didn't work, turtle wax wheel cleaner, simple green, brake cleaner, spray carb cleaner, etc. I tried in out of sight areas.

The green pad cuts the stuff off and it cleans up ok, it's just elbow grease.



The cleaned up one is one the right, not sure if you can see it in the pic or not.

[1964C10]

Thanks Mike, I missed his build for some reason!

[hgs_notes]

What I did on my tank install was set a couple levels across the frame rails right where the bed cross sills would set. The top of the blazer tank has a bulge in it that sets up a bit. The filler and vent lines are right between the sills and the filler will go just above the frame rail. If I were to notch the bed cross sills, I could pull the tank up another 3/4" maybe so the tank itself would rest against the cross sills. I still might do this. I don't really like how the tank moves right now and my straps are not adjustable.

I will probably order new straps (they are about $30), notch the sills, and then pull the tank up tight to the bed sills. It won't look hardly any different than it is now, but should be more stable.

Not much progress to report today. I got the engine pulleys sand blasted and repainted. I got my cab mount bushings almost ready to install (I'm missing a couple nuts and washers) and might get the cab on today or monday (taking a vacation day).

My headers should arrive tuesday.

[Palf70Step]

I sorta am at the same point. I want to fire my engine soooo bad, but no wiring.

So my plan (waiting on weather and some money) is to paint the inside of the cab, door jams, windshield, the outside of the cab between the cab and bed. The assemble everything, do the new wiring, assemble the interior, fire the engine, the eventually paint the entire outside. I felt this way it would get a bunch of stuff off the floor and prevent me from having to disassemble a bunch of stuff for later stuff. It really can be a pain and yeah I am like you I worry that sometimes I am in a slump and losing interest. Especially with me right now as it seems all I am doing is sanding/blocking and I see no difference in what the truck looks like.

Keep hitting it. I am enjoying reading, although I don't get to sit down every day like I use to to really read board posts. This thing called work seems to interfere.

[hgs_notes]

Ya know Bill, If you want to fire up the engine, you don't have to have hardly any wires at all hooked up. Just put the battery in, hook up the starter and the hot lead to the distributor and use a remote starter switch. I'm getting close to that point. It may run for a few minutes through open headers, but I don't see anything wrong with that!

As for today, I volunteered to help with a bingo fundraiser at the park this afternoon, so my day is probably done with the truck. I got the steering column wiring figured out (I think) and soldered up a connector so it will plug into the harness. I got the column installed, no major issues there.



Kind of funny, I get the column in and I'm thinking to myself, "cool, now I got steering" Then realized I don't have the steering wheel on. And besides that, the one I want is not ordered yet. There goes another $100. This one is what I was using, but I don't like it. I'll be selling it as soon as my new one gets here.


I got the pulleys in, they look nice. I decided to just put a new internal regulated alternator in, so that's why it's not in yet. Probably next week. I bought one at the junkyard, it didn't work, go figure. At least it's returnable.

[hgs_notes]

It seems I got the wrong headers. I could have swore when I looked them up it was the correct part number, but they are designed to fit 4x4's only, though they will fit a 2wd if the engine is mounted in the rearward position. The driver side header hits the crossmember and lower A arm bushing. Passenger side fits great. I have 2 choices on the headers. Either have a serious upgrade for my junkyard jimmy or resell them. I could probably make a profit. They are $360-370 from the big online sellers and brand new. I got them for a good price, so I'll decide later.

What's frustrating is that they would both fit great if my engine was mounted in the rearward mounting position. There would be plenty of clearance and you can see in the pics that they have outlets that are high and out of the way. I would have to shorten my driveshaft to use them though, not to mention all the work moving the mounts and tranny crossmember back a few inches.

Anyway, 3 steps forward, 2 steps back. Here's the pics:
Passenger side fits-



Driver side, not so much-

[hgs_notes]

I haven't worked on it much lately. Too many other obligations. I did start doing some filling on dents. I bought a set of spray guns. I've been looking into painting it myself. I bought a book and DVD on body work and paint. And I'm talking with a local body guy too.

But I had a set back today. I found a garage heater on craigslist. I'm trying to plan ahead for this winter. Come September everyone will be looking and make it hard to get a deal. Anyway, I went to look at it, a reznor 75,000 btu heater and got it for $220. When I picked it up to load into my car I ruptured my right biceps tendon. It's not even that heavy, maybe 75 pounds and not really a strain to lift. It just let go.

So now I'm in a sling and will probably have surgery next week. The good news is that the recovery time is not too long, about a month one doctor said. Kind of sucks though with the timing. Softball for my kids is coming to an end and I was going to find a little more free time. Now everything is delayed. Work, house repairs, playing with the truck, etc. I guess I'll have time to study my body repair and paint lessons.

[seldomseen65]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I haven't worked on it much lately. Too many other obligations. I did start doing some filling on dents. I bought a set of spray guns. I've been looking into painting it myself. I bought a book and DVD on body work and paint. And I'm talking with a local body guy too.

But I had a set back today. I found a garage heater on craigslist. I'm trying to plan ahead for this winter. Come September everyone will be looking and make it hard to get a deal. Anyway, I went to look at it, a reznor 75,000 btu heater and got it for $220. When I picked it up to load into my car I ruptured my right biceps tendon. It's not even that heavy, maybe 75 pounds and not really a strain to lift. It just let go.

So now I'm in a sling and will probably have surgery next week. The good news is that the recovery time is not too long, about a month one doctor said. Kind of sucks though with the timing. Softball for my kids is coming to an end and I was going to find a little more free time. Now everything is delayed. Work, house repairs, playing with the truck, etc. I guess I'll have time to study my body repair and paint lessons.

hgs; take care of those hurts before you continue with the truck,,it will be around when you get better, your kids will love you for spending time with them,, i have to look forward to knee surgery next month and the truck is almost done, I've had it running but you know there are little things that have to be done before you are satisfied with your work on it .
and are able to drive it with a peace of mind ,, my wife is very adamant about my health right now,, so i'm out numbered by one who cares.
nuff said,, take care .
larry

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Good luck for a quick healing. Yeah, we always seem to get hooked up with something that slows our truck progress down.

Originally Posted by seldomseen65

hgs; take care of those hurts before you continue with the truck,,it will be around when you get better, your kids will love you for spending time with them,, i have to look forward to knee surgery next month and the truck is almost done, I've had it running but you know there are little things that have to be done before you are satisfied with your work on it .
and are able to drive it with a peace of mind ,, my wife is very adamant about my health right now,, so i'm out numbered by one who cares.
nuff said,, take care .
larry

Thanks guys. I'll be alright. Seldomseen65, good luck with the knee. My wife works at a hospital, there is no shortage of mother henning around here.

[hgs_notes]

Here's the wheel I'm going to use, Grant 967:

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Here's the wheel I'm going to use, Grant 967:

That was the steering wheel I was going to buy as well (still may) but after having seen a number of them at car shows on trucks I noticed there is quite a bit of difference between manufacturers some of them the metal strip that sits between the wood parts was much smaller then the wood leaving the sharp inner edge of the wood exposed and when I ran my hand over it like if I was letting the steering wheel slide in making a turn, it about cut my hand. Also the wood was centered correctly. Anyways, just my observation, might want to make sure to buy it from a company that would allow you to return/exchange it and not from fleebay.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 1964C10

That was the steering wheel I was going to buy as well (still may) but after having seen a number of them at car shows on trucks I noticed there is quite a bit of difference between manufacturers some of them the metal strip that sits between the wood parts was much smaller then the wood leaving the sharp inner edge of the wood exposed and when I ran my hand over it like if I was letting the steering wheel slide in making a turn, it about cut my hand. Also the wood was centered correctly. Anyways, just my observation, might want to make sure to buy it from a company that would allow you to return/exchange it and not from fleebay.

Thanks for the info. I plan on getting it through summit or amazon.