Softop installation no Holes

[AHowe88]

Originally Posted by skorpioskorpio

I'd say that piece would be about $400-500 in material, easy, in 3D print medium, it's nearly 6 feet long, beside I've never seen a 3D printer that can print much larger than a 3 foot cube. Also 3D print material is not what you'd consider rugged. It's basically a prototyping material not a finished product material. It's essentially a sort of rigid foam made to take a fraction of the space in the cartridge as it does when printed. I plan on doing 3D prints to make a casting master for my intake manifold, which it works well for, but I can't honestly think of a single place I would use a 3D print as a finished piece in an automotive application, at least any piece I've ever seen.

Honestly I have no experience with 3D printing, but I read recently that there are over a 1000 different materials they can use in printing with different strengths. Given that they have printing guns (with varying degrees of success), there must be some strong enough. Interestingly enough, Leno uses one regularly: http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras...y-old-parts-1/

That said, I think you are definitely right about the size, that would probably be a deal killer.

[skorpioskorpio]

Originally Posted by AHowe88

Honestly I have no experience with 3D printing, but I read recently that there are over a 1000 different materials they can use in printing with different strengths. Given that they have printing guns (with varying degrees of success), there must be some strong enough. Interestingly enough, Leno uses one regularly: http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras...y-old-parts-1/

That said, I think you are definitely right about the size, that would probably be a deal killer.

Maybe things have changed, but the printer in the Leno article looks exactly like the one I've printed on before, and the one I'll be printing my manifold casting master on. As far as I know it only prints in 2 materials, a white material that looks like the material that the part Leno is posing with, and a dark brown material that is solvent soluble that is used to print part supports while the print is in process or to print captive elements. One of the demos on the machine is a salt/pepper shaker which has about a 3/32" to 1/8" thick wall and is maybe 1 1/4" diameter and 1" tall, the completed piece can be easily crushed to dust in your hand and takes about 45 min to print the pair.

[robs71k5]

Ok so there are five headers out being installed. I need those who are interested in the next shippment to email me at srpenner@hotmail.com if your to ready for shipping cause it just makes my life easier to process without mixups.The next shipment will occur shortly after we start getting feedback on the first shippment .I encourage those who purchased to make their feedback as promptly as possible .Thanks Rob
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[robs71k5]

I'm just, guessing it will be $40.00 or less cause I just shipped one to Florida and it was $39. and change
Not sure if I want to do actual shipping anymore cause its just twice the work and I frankly don't have that kind of time any more so I think $45.00 for every destination should cover and I dont see anyone complaining about the parts or shipping yet .Then I can get on with building them and making the window attachments that are the next phase

Originally Posted by mtully79

Can you PM me shipping to 23455? Blazer goes into the body shop next week and I'll be looking to order one from you middle of July.

Thanks!

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[amcgeh01]

Rob,

Please clean out your pm inbox.. it is full and cannot receive any msgs.. I know you are probably trying to keep track of everyone's request for purchase and that is probably why it is full.. Maybe the Mod can figure out a way to save them elsewhere..???

[robs71k5]

Cleaned it up a bit so should work thanks for the info
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[Effeckt]

Sent you an email as requested to keep myself in the loop. I didn't know if you were looking for people who already have a soft top or just those actively interested. Either way, wanted to make sure I do what I can to get one of these before it's too late!

[D.PASSMORE]

Rob, I got the header last week. Great packing to ensure no damage. I inspected the header panel and did a quick test fit on my blazer windshield frame. It looks like a good fit. The workmanship is good and the product is rugged. That was my main concern - thickness of fiberglass. No worries, it should with stand what ever mother nature throws against it. I will start the installation this Friday. I have a softtopper ready to go, but the header piece will need some body work to smooth it out for final painting. I will start a thread to show the install from begining to end. Thanks David

[robs71k5]

Thanks David I hope your install goes smoothly and renders your installation irreplaceable which was my intention to begin with. As far as the part itself goes I was hoping to be able to offer a part finished both sides but the equipment I would have needed to complete to that spec (smooth both sides)would have made the cost double for the sake of a little body work that the purchaser would have to do irregardless to match their individual paint schemes .So I made the desision to continue with a part that could encompass further development with respect to the door opening and closing with out having to role down the window. Another pet peeve of mine .
MOD
Just a reminder there is a mod aswell to help with the weather getting under the domes on the leading edge .That is to say one could take a layer of bondo and build it up in a wedge shape to exceed the height of the domes on the leading edge just below the canvas which will help to deflect the wind and rain over the canvas leading edge .But the canvas leading edge snaps have to be install first so you have a reference line which is the canvas Leading edge line . Please email me with help for this procedure I will try to put up a diagram if your not sure of what I"m talking about .
I would like everyone to have the best experience possible.
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[D.PASSMORE]

Rob - Did you use the rivits that was supplied with your header to secure the snaps to the header and leading edge of the softtopper?

Another one, the L brackets that will be installed to WS frame edges. How did you install? Did you mod the header at the ends to have them protrude out so the front window bracket can attach?

Also, I'm looking at trying to use the SS header/snap bar supplied with the softopper attached to the fiberglass header. Just a thought...

FYI- I'm leaving on a fishing trip to Alaska Wendsday afternoon - be back the following week. Install on hold until then. But I have taken alot of pictures of the softopper bracket install on the tub.

Thanks Dave

[crv]

@ D.PASSMORE - I was planning on using their header/snap bar until I saw how little the snaps were threaded into it. I ended up taking all of their snaps out and clamped it to the fiberglass header to use as a template to drill the holes for snaps which I then riveted on the fiberglass header. For my mounting holes, I cut the heads off a few bolts and ground a point on them to transfer my holes on each end of the windshield frame. Drilled those and marked and drilled for the two center mounts as well.

@Rob - I think I may have goofed up a little. I'm going to attach pics so you can see, but my header isn't sitting down on each side...unless my windshield frame differs some from your mold. I'm going to try and see if I can get it to fit a little better.

[D.PASSMORE]

CRV, I see - good idea with pointed screws. On the header, do you feel the cavas is pulling it backwards to lift the edges?

[crv]

I'm sure the Softopper being brand new and tight isn't helping, but in Rob's original pictures, it looks like his piece is fitting nicely. I'll see if he has any ideas or suggestions.
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[Blazerowner]

I have seen these made with sheet metal on another thread. I don't want to drill my windshield either so I might fab something up out of sheet metal myself. I wonder why Softopper doesn't offer an option with no snaps. I would pay extra for it.

[robs71k5]

Sorry guys I took a well deserved fishing holiday but am back now .So What I seem to be observing is some slackness at each side .I hope the Header was installed completely before the softopper . The rivets I sent were intended to be used in the snaps butI think they are too long and might have to be trimmed down .You can do this by punching out the rivet stem ,cut the rivet portion down and insert it back into the centre of the rivet hole Then install the rivet if rom the underside of the header to protrude thought the snap on the outer side .Hope that makes some sense
David did you install the header and have it bolted down before you installed the snaps across the front of the Header? That is paramount to getting a good product installation. The header needs to be installed so the pads at each of the four bolt down spots are mating together
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[robs71k5]

I do not recommend using the metal strip that comes with the softopper kit to install your snaps into the header. Because that is flat and your are changing the dynamics by using the header with rounded contours .I used two friends holding the front of the canvas evenly across the whole front with the part on each side then with a marker I put a dot under each snap on the canvas after of coarse the Header was completely installed and sitting on each of the four pads on top .If you use the part supplied by Softopper you are likely going to run into trouble . Please give me a call if your not sure .I will be more than happy to take a call in the interest of people here to get there installs done as best as we can .Just PM me for my phone number Regards Rob
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[D.PASSMORE]

Rob, Got the header and soft topper installed. I'm really impressed with the header and the soft topper workmanship and quality of material. Still belong to the “old-school” theory, it better last as long as I’m living and Made in the USA! In your case, made in Canada – I can live with that. I feel that this set-up will last a long, long time if maintained properly. One point that I would like to make is that, I did not have to modify any component on the OE blazer design or drill any holes to make the install complete. It can remove the soft topper set-up from the blazer; reinstall the auxiliary hard top at any time, just like the OE factory design. The only area that I strayed was that I used the aluminum header track bar attached to the header. I felt that this would give it extra strength (rigid) to the header design. I did not want any lifting of the header from the windshield frame as indicated in earlier photos. I achieved this, but I’m not sure if it was due to the modification. Any ways, I’m very pleased with the whole set-up. I’ve attached some pictures of the install, with the help of my son, it went rather well.

[D.PASSMORE]

I use stand-offs to install the L-brackets supplied by Soft topper, then had to modify hearder ends to fit around L-bracket and bolt head. Then mounted the track bar on (Rob) header. Had to cut the track bar ends to get correct placement of the outside snaps.

[D.PASSMORE]

Painted the header to match, re-mounted aluminum tarck bar, installed gasket underneath the (Rob) hearder to ensure water tight seal, installed header (6 bolts) to WS frame, attached supplied(soft topper)weather strip gasket to top of (Rob) header. Snapped top in place. Perfect fit, no leakes either!

[Effeckt]

Thanks for uploading pics of your install David. I also was thinking I may want to keep the header bar for rigidity so I was happy to see someone else that did before me. Did you also cut the header bar? It looks like you did in this picture for the soft topper L-bracket.

[Effeckt]

One more question.. what did you use for the gasket? I like that idea just in case.

[D.PASSMORE]

Originally Posted by Effeckt

One more question.. what did you use for the gasket? I like that idea just in case.

The gasket was standard front lip gasket for a hard top. It fits under the front edge of a hard top for sealing the top to the WS frame. LMC catalog shows it.

I didn't like the way the L-brackets attached to the WS frame, not stable. So, I found those plastic insulators in some of my junk, got a longer hex head bolt and screw every thing down tight. The (Rob) header had to be trimmed back eleveate the door top hitting the header. So I used a cut-off tool and angle grinder to shape, drill and notch the end. You will have to do this or the (Rob) header will not sit tight to the WS frame. Also, I used a hacksaw to cut softopper aluminum bar about half way down and then hand bend to the correct spot for the outside snap placement.

[robs71k5]

Nice install but kinda defeats the purpose to install that softopper strip on top in order to cut down on elements intruding from under the canvas .My install did not require any further reinforcement and you virtually cannot tell its there .once again I am available by phone if someone requires more info for the installation 1-604-999-9574 Rob
As long as your happy with it is my concern . Just to let you know that the fibreglass is polyester in case you want to plug holes. Should be hearing from three others on the install and the making decision on continued supply .Thanks Rob
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[D.PASSMORE]

I'm very satisfied. I'll probably scuff and re-paint the complete header again when I remove the soft top for the winter. It's been raining quite a bit this week, I believe its more water tight than the hard top. No leaks around header. The only thing that I don't like in the soft topper design the front window area. Its an open area. I think I will make a L-bracket that bends down a little more. Also re-install the OE rain deflectors. Rob you mentioned rolling down the window to open the door. I agree - PIA! Again, great design on the "Rob" header. If it is installed either way (no bar or with bar) it works very well.

[robs71k5]

Yeh David I just want to point out that I"m trying to make there might soon be a fix for the side windows to be leak proof by next summer hopefully. I think it will be good but it might require the co-operation of Softopper but have had no discussions as yet with them. But at the same time any mods on the Header can be easily repaired for that add on Regards Rob Happy Blazin !
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