1969 K10 CST Full Restoration

[72 tigger]

Nice reproductions! $4700 would have been a lot in 1968

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

That's pretty damn cool! Good work.

Thanks Steven!

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Awesome work guys! Cant wait to see that dark blue in the sunlight

Thanks Mike. Me too!

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Nice reproductions! $4700 would have been a lot in 1968

No doubt...$5167.25 delivered ...but I'll bet you could've talked em down to 4700.

[Ol Blue K20]

Where do you get this stuff reproduced?

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Where do you get this stuff reproduced?

If you mean the shipping/invoice/window sticker...you can go to VintageCorrect.com. If you mean the decals, I work with a local sign company. They have a talented graphic artist and they indulge me as we agonize over font and color and arrangement etc. I've got a couple of other things they are working on for this truck and of course they did the decals for the BF Avery too...I think I've become a bit of a joke in their office because I'm always turning up with a tattered piece of junk and a list with at least 10 bullet points. Literally I was in there on Monday trying to explain (in unnecessary detail) the next thing I wanted to do...the young lady listened patiently and stared intently, then when I finished my monologue, she burst into laughter. Unfortunately I wasn't making a joke.

[Ol Blue K20]

I used to have a good sign shop I used. They reproduced a lot for me. But they sold out to a big chain brand. It's against their policy to reproduce anything because of liability. They even deleted my graphics file. Service is a thing of the past.

[cebra]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

We centered the headliner and fixed it with a couple of pieces of tape. .

Just a suggestion since I see you live in GA, I put a boatload of the heavy duty Velcro tape to the headliner and the roof (the 2" wide $30 a roll stuff). It worked great until I parked the truck in 100 degree heat...it has now fallen as the sticky part to the roof essentially melted. I have to redo it and am going to use something more robust, not sure what but something liquid nails resilient.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by cebra

Just a suggestion since I see you live in GA, I put a boatload of the heavy duty Velcro tape to the headliner and the roof (the 2" wide $30 a roll stuff). It worked great until I parked the truck in 100 degree heat...it has now fallen as the sticky part to the roof essentially melted. I have to redo it and am going to use something more robust, not sure what but something liquid nails resilient.

Thanks for the heads up. The tape referred to in that particular post was masking tape and it was just to keep the headliner in position during fitment...and the cab was upside down at the time, so no real pressure on the tape. I have tried to learn from others' experiences on here and will use a strong heat tolerant adhesive when we put it in for real-which hopefully will be tomorrow.

[IronCanine]

I noticed that Steven (smbrouss70) had posted in his Blazer build thread about his windshield leaking: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...626978&page=15

I felt bad for him because I love his Blazer and he had to leave it home from a show because of rain. But my understanding is that they were supposed to leak. Why else would they put a drain in the dash?

[IronCanine]

A lot of work lately but not all of it yields a solid update. Eric continues to work the cab. Not many more days on the rotisserie because as it makes some areas easy to access...it gets in the way of others. Before it comes off though, we wanted to take advantage of it for installing the headliner and spraying the undercoating. Eric got color, clear and a polish on the interior roof panels in preparation for placing the headliner.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

A lot of work lately but not all of it yields a solid update. Eric continues to work the cab. Not many more days on the rotisserie because as it makes some areas easy to access...it gets in the way of others. Before it comes off though, we wanted to take advantage of it for the installing the headliner and spraying the undercoating. Eric got color, clear and a polish on the interior roof panels in preparation for placing the headliner.

Goodness!!! That's nice! He's doing great. This is going to be a very nice truck!

[IronCanine]

As previously stated we did not cut the square holes for the trim clips...the plan had been to use adhesive in those areas. We did some bench tests today on a couple of construction adhesives and an epoxy putty. None of them performed in a way they made us comfortable. All along Eric said it would be screws...and in the end that is what we did. It made me sick because it is obviously a non factory situation. But the trim has to suck up tight and it does...and it looks good. I can't have it sagging or falling. We used construction adhesive under the headliner itself (it can sit inverted for a day or so to fully cure). We placed four additional screws total. They were placed on the long runs between the center and corner screws (2 on the front trim and 2 on the back trim). We got matching round/countersunk Phillips head screws in stainless and carefully countersunk them to match the others. I still don't know if I'd cut the square holes if I could go back...maybe I just need to get a factory headliner cab next time.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Goodness!!! That's nice! He's doing great. This is going to be a very nice truck!

Thanks Dale. He is super meticulous. In fact he wasn't satisfied with the clear on the first go round, prepped and re-cleared it. It's so easy to work with him because he is just as particular and exacting as I am. That is not my day to day experience with other humans.

[IronCanine]

I've collected a few pics of undercoating from low mileage trucks. I initially thought that it was only on upper trim level trucks, but that's not the case. It's application as you might imagine is highly variable. Here's a good pic that shows how far it extends toward the truck's midline on one particular truck. It's a screen grab taken by Steve Hafner from the video of the 80-mile '70 C-10 that was on YouTube some time back. You can see that it is applied post assembly and looks like someone just reached under the truck and made a few passes. Joe (Joesjunk) graciously took some shots of his trucks and sent them along too. They showed a similar pattern. I didn't want to be that messy with it. You can see they had overspray on the cab mount and frame. Eric taped it up and tried to do it the way they might if they had six months to churn out a truck instead of 60 seconds. He also started masking the finished portion of the interior too. She comes off the rotisserie tomorrow in order to prep for the rest of the interior paint.

[IronCanine]

The firewall got buffed and the cab came off the rotisserie today. It was protecting the last bit of orange in the jams. That'll be gone soon. Eric will begin the final prep on the floor and get the rest of it sealed up and colored up and back on the frame. I was clued into the tire crayon by Keith Seymore. That's definitely what they used. This is a St. Louis truck and the factory markings seem more prolific and consistent from that plant than others. I tried to replicate the style and handwriting from the St. Louis examples that are on the board and that I've collected. If you've missed it and are interested here's a link to one of the factory markings threads: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=591402

[72 tigger]

Looks like the real deal- nice work

[DeadheadNM]

Nice!! I’ll bet Keith would give your handwriting an “A”

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks really good.

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

Looks like the real deal- nice work

Thanks!

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Nice!! I’ll bet Keith would give your handwriting an “A”

I hope. He'd be a good judge. You know I didn't get that A/C right on the first try...I'm sure I'd get better after a few shifts on a moving assembly line.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looks really good.

Gracias!

[IronCanine]

Interior color and clear. Phillips pan head filler bolts in bench seat mounting positions as indicated in the assembly manual for A50 bucket seat trucks and well illustrated by Mel in this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562904 Of the original paint trucks I've seen in person, it seems the high hump was just laid in the cab during painting...leaving a ring of primer on the floor. That's what we did here.

[Ol Blue K20]

I like your attention to detail. It's looking good. Keep it up!

[IronCanine]

Another side project...the reproduction carpet that covers the tank in bucket seat trucks is not correct. We have been working to get it right. Derrick (Dirt's72) graciously pulled a factory version from his 69 and sent it to ACC. They asked for a mold so we made one. If you want to know more about bucket seat carpet, here's a thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...47#post8561047

[IronCanine]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I like your attention to detail. It's looking good. Keep it up!

Thanks!

[Chulisohombre]

It’s coming along nicely. Great work.

[IronCanine]

Hopefully setting the cab in the next couple of days...in the meantime, some progress posts aren't exciting or interesting but emphasize the point that it takes a lot of time and sometimes tedious effort to get these trucks done.

The repro core support fits but is obviously different from the OE version in many ways (for instance the upper member creases and the capture nuts). Our original core support like most, was worse for wear on the bottom. We wanted to save the good original bits. So I drilled out the 80 or so spot welds on the OE core support to remove the rusty bottom and vertical supports as a unit and then ground the spot welds away from the repro one to dissect out that same structure. Then Eric spotted it all back together.

[IronCanine]

My brother found some nice buckets and I got into the fun of cleaning up the frames. Great skirts and only minimal surface rust. Amazing any of them survive when they're basically raw steel in a sponge. Maybe the best way is to media blast em, but I cleaned them up the hard way. Two seat springs needed replacement (probably do all five on that seat). Ordered springs and listing wire from:

https://www.wsusol.com/default.aspx

As previously mentioned on the board.