Creamsicle: My 70 K10 SWB is about to get sweeter

[derotoreut]

A friend of mine owns a welding and fabrication company. He used his company's CNC machining center and made me this shifter boot ring for my NP205. It's made out of 3/8" aluminum, so it's thicker then the stock one. All other dimensions are the same. Pretty cool.

[First c10]

Hey Dan. It’s the little things that most people won’t see that set it off. Looks good.

[derotoreut]

Finally started working on my wiring. I put it off, and put it off, but finally realized that it won't get done by itself. My harness wiring is completed, but I needed to get started on my fuse panel wiring. I'm using the AAW Classic Update kit. I labeled all wires with marker and painter's tape, so I knew where everything was going. Then I started removing the wires that I didn't think I'd need. I also re-pinned a lot of wires and relocated them where I wanted them in the harness. I hope this works out!

AAW harness layout


Re-pinning the harness

[rsavage]

Nice work as usual Dan.

[derotoreut]

More work on the wiring. Got the AAW fuse box installed. Now it's time to make all the connections.

[derotoreut]

I'm installing Dakota Digital RTX gauges, so I need to mount the main module. I'm also putting in a GPS module and OBDII interface (BIM-01-2). Instead of just shoving them under the dash I wanted to mount them neatly. My plan was to use the ABS firewall insulator from Quiet Ride Solutions as a mounting surface. The ABS is really sturdy, so it'll make a great mounting surface. I decided to use rivet nuts in the firewall insulator to mount the modules.

I started with the OBDII interface module by testing where I wanted it.



I then taped the firewall insulator in order to mark my holes for the rivet nuts. I couldn't see any pencil marks on the black firewall, so the painter's tape works great.



This is one of my rivet nut tools. This one is smaller and fits under the dash great.



First rivet nut is installed.



Both rivet nuts are in place and the BIM OBDII module installed. Stainless button heads used of course. Lol Now I need to install the other modules.

[derotoreut]

More Dakota Digital module mounting:

Put in a couple more rivet nuts to install the main control module.



More rivet nuts for the GPS module.



Installed the GPS-50-2 interface module.



Both interface modules installed.

[derotoreut]

More wiring: So I bought a power distribution block on Amazon to use as a ground block. When it arrived, I didn't realize it was so big. I should have paid more attention to the size before I made the purchase.




In order to use it I decided to cut it in half. I replaced the top bolt with a stud that I drilled and tapped into a raised section of the firewall, so it's thoroughly grounded. I confirmed the continuity with an ohm meter.



Connected all wire grounds to the bus bar.



Finished product. It worked out pretty well.

[DWilbur]

Your just a head of me with wiring I'm finish up some work under the hood then start on wiring I will be fallowing your thread. where did you get the rivet nuts.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Your just a head of me with wiring I'm finish up some work under the hood then start on wiring I will be fallowing your thread. where did you get the rivet nuts.

I have both the Astro Pneumatic 1442 and 1443B tool kits. Both sets come with some rivet nuts. I also ordered some stainless rivet nuts off of Amazon. You can find them on Ebay too. They are great tools. I set rivet nuts for my seats, transmission cooler mount, Dakota Digital modules and more.

[MDPotter]

I just read through your build, very impressive. I can tell you've put a lot of thought and planning into it and it shows!

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

I just read through your build, very impressive. I can tell you've put a lot of thought and planning into it and it shows!

Thank you. I appreciate it very much. I'd also like to thank you for your input and help outside of this build thread concerning LS swaps and wiring. You've been a great help.

[derotoreut]

With the COVID-19 stay-at-home orders I've been pretty busy with the truck. I made up some lines to go between the Vintage Air evaporator and the bulkhead fittings located down inside the fresh air vent.

[derotoreut]

More wiring updates: Instead of hard wiring my VA trinary switch, I decided to install a 4-way weather pack connector.

First weather pack pin installed.


Finished connector. Just in case I have to remove the trinary switch for some reason.

[derotoreut]

I made up a couple of fuel lines for the supply and return from the Corvette style filter/regulator. I used PTFE tubing and the proper fittings. Not so sure I like how these fittings connect to the filter/regulator. I may change my mind on this.

This is the Wix 33100 filter/regulator.



Made a supply and return line for connection at my Walbro pump inside the Rick's tank.



I don't really care for all these connections on the filter/regulator.

[rsavage]

You are doing really nice work Dan. Super clean.

[MDPotter]

Nice work on that weatherpak connector. On the fuel line fittings, there is a type of fitting that is supposed to be more secure than the the plastic clips - it's like a c-clip that keeps the fitting secured. I'm running the plastic clips and haven't had an issue though. If you're interested, Earl's (Holley) makes them: https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/751166ERL

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by MDPotter

Nice work on that weatherpak connector. On the fuel line fittings, there is a type of fitting that is supposed to be more secure than the the plastic clips - it's like a c-clip that keeps the fitting secured. I'm running the plastic clips and haven't had an issue though. If you're interested, Earl's (Holley) makes them: https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/751166ERL

The fittings I'm currently using are the C-clip type. I think they would be OK, but I think I'm going to go with this filter/regulator from Speedway. It has 6AN fittings already installed, which will minimize the potential for leaks.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speed...SI,375656.html

[MDPotter]

I didn't know those existed, that's pretty cool. I'll have to remember that when I replace mine someday.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by rsavage

You are doing really nice work Dan. Super clean.

Thanks Rick. That means a lot coming from the May 2020 ToTM winner. Congrats!

[derotoreut]

Worked on my upper radiator hose. I've been trying to find an off-the-shelf hose. I've tried a number of hoses, but have been unable to find anything that fits with my LS radiator. I ended up buying a 1-1/2" 45-degree hose piece and a 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" 45-degree piece. I put the one piece on the radiator and the other on the engine. With tape around each section, I marked the mating points. I then cut a 6" long piece of 1-1/2" diameter stainless steel tubing and put these together. I then used a Gates Power Grip, shrink clamp to hold the pieces together. Worked out pretty good.

Both hose sections were installed and the mating points were match-marked with tape and marker


I installed a 6" piece of 1-1/2" stainless steel tubing inside the hoses, keeping the match marks in line.


I used a Gates Power Grip shrink clamp to hold the two sections together. The shrink clamp part number is 32948. It fits 1-3/4" to 2" diameter.


Make sure that if you don't want to see the markings on the clamp that you clean them off before you heat shrink the clamp on. If you try to clean it afterwards, the lettering won't come off.


Final result fit perfectly!

[Richard]

I saw those shrink clamps recently, they look nice. Carl at Vaporworks was using them on his 68 Camaro. Got my PWM fuel pump controller from him for the factory ZL1 fuel pump I am using in my build.

[DWilbur]

What are you doing about the steam vent. Some guys are tying it into the upper hose.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

What are you doing about the steam vent. Some guys are tying it into the upper hose.

If you look on the last picture showing the radiator you'll see there are two small open NPT ports. The one above the radiator hose is 1/8" NPT, which is for my overflow tank. The one to the right of the radiator hose (at the same level) is 1/4" NPT steam line connection. I plan to use that port for my steam line.

[First c10]

Wow I am going to look into those clamps. I am curious how they hold up to the pressure.

Project is looking good.