1954 Chevy / S10

[xpickup]

Started on the other side now. Pass fender needs some hammer and dolly work but nothing to bad , has some cracks around the wheel opening. I figured I would strip a bunch of it and pull back apart to epoxy it then onto the body work. I also bought new wheels for mine and put them on last night. I had my little helper with me the whole time.


Shannon

[daverod]

I'm liking what I'm seeing. Answered some problems I had. Keep up the good work. Very nice metal work. Makes me want to try harder.

[xpickup]

daverod, Thank you. I love working with metal. What problems were you having?

Shannon

[oldman3]

Hope you had a good vacation, little by little your getting there. Like the fender brace ideal, make sure to show it when it's done.....Jim

[xpickup]

oldman3, yes vacation was great. We went to myrtle beach and the week blew by. The fender brace should work out good and should be able to keep it close to the fender. I figured it would just be easier to make them than find used ones. Plus I can have then now than waiting for them.

Shannon

[xpickup]

Well I did some work on my buddies 1948 chevy cab this weekend. The drip edges were rotted off and the sheetmetal under it was hole ridden and the beltline seam was to also. So I redid the door opening and tightened up the door gap and redid half of the beltline. I still have to do the other half. So out came the brake, strecher/shrinker and the beadroller. It worked out pretty well.

Shannon

[oldman3]

Shannon,
Nice job on the door edges. The door gap looks perfect, very nice work. I love the way you repaired the beltline, never have to worry about the two panel rust again, very very nice......Jim

[xpickup]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Shannon,
Nice job on the door edges. The door gap looks perfect, very nice work. I love the way you repaired the beltline, never have to worry about the two panel rust again, very very nice......Jim

oldman3, Thank you. The door gaps were to big with the drip edges off so I made them like the rest of the doors about 3/16 and you are right no rust below the beltline.

Shannon

[Groyd]

Originally Posted by xpickup

Well I did some work on my buddies 1948 chevy cab this weekend. The drip edges were rotted off and the sheetmetal under it was hole ridden and the beltline seam was to also. So I redid the door opening and tightened up the door gap and redid half of the beltline.

How tough was it to get rid of the drip edges. Are they just tac welds or are they on there pretty solid? I'm not sure if I want to tackle it or not.

I'm having fits with my door gaps as well. Not quite sure where to start with them.

[Fat Mike]

Interested in dimensions for the front fender brackets and how they mount. I am missing one and would like to mimic yours

[xpickup]

Originally Posted by Groyd

How tough was it to get rid of the drip edges. Are they just tac welds or are they on there pretty solid? I'm not sure if I want to tackle it or not.

I'm having fits with my door gaps as well. Not quite sure where to start with them.

Groyd, The drip edges are just spot welded to the door opening but they were just about rusted off and the sheetmetal behind them had alot of holes. The gap was large too. I cut out the bad metal and sheared 1 inch wide strips and bent them a little over 90 degrees with a 1/2 leg on both sides. I did the opening in 3 sections. So I mounted the door and used a strecher/shinker to fit the door. Sat the new piece with the gap I wanted up against the cab and scribed the cab the cut it out with a 4 1/2 cut off wheel. then welded it on the outside and inside on the door opening. I skipped around so it didn't worp out and ground it up. It wasn't bad to do just took time. If you need anymore pictures let me know.

Shannon

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by xpickup

Well I did some work on my buddies 1948 chevy cab this weekend. The drip edges were rotted off and the sheetmetal under it was hole ridden and the beltline seam was to also. So I redid the door opening and tightened up the door gap and redid half of the beltline. I still have to do the other half. So out came the brake, strecher/shrinker and the beadroller. It worked out pretty well.

Shannon

Can you tell us more about how you did the beltline, and some more close-up pics? How bad was the rust inside there and what did you do to mitigate it?

[xpickup]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Can you tell us more about how you did the beltline, and some more close-up pics? How bad was the rust inside there and what did you do to mitigate it?

BlueJeep, I made a die for my beadroller for my panel truck and it was close to the bead on the back of the truck. The back of the truck was a little wider. On the corner I put a flat piece of paper on the cab so I could figure out the radius. Once I figured that out, I cut the paper and transfered it to the sheetmetal. Then beadrolled the radius. I only used half of the beltline bead that was about 3/4". The upper part of the bead was alright. I left about 3/4" on below the bead because that was below the rot. I then put the flat edge of the sheetmetal (non beaded edge) and ran it on the beadroller. Because it was radiused too. If you looked at the edge it looked like a flattened W. If the beltline edge didn't look crisp I changed the dies and ran the tipping die over it. I then put the piece on the cab and scribed the panel on the cab. Then welded it in. The rust wasn't to bad behind the beltline. I will post more picture for you when I do the last piece.

Shannon

[Kabwe]

Really nice work my friend. Really nice.

[99 to Life]

are you going to leave the drip rails off? I personally like them alot, I don't think they would be too bad to make. The belt line looks great.

[xpickup]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

are you going to leave the drip rails off? I personally like them alot, I don't think they would be too bad to make. The belt line looks great.

99 to Life, Thank you. Yes drip edges are gone. My buddy didn't want the on so I said no problem and the metal was bad behind it. Belt line worked out pretty well at least it will not rust at the seam.

Shannon

[xpickup]

Originally Posted by Kabwe

Really nice work my friend. Really nice.

Kabwe, Thank you. I really do love doing metal work like you do too.

Shannon

[Kabwe]

You the man Shannon, you the man.

[BlueJeep]

Thanks for the additional detail! When I finish mine out (I already welded it) I plan to match the profile of the doors as best I can.

Now that I know what a pain that seam is, I check them out at shows. Most I see are half filled with paint and half not, and I just wonder how much water seeps in there and stays wet....

[xpickup]

Kabwe, Thank you

BlueJeep, No problem on the pictures. If anybody ever needs more pictures just ask. I know what you mean about that seam. I think that welding it up helps to seal it better so hopefully it will not get water behind it and then rust. When I did it I took out both of the returned lips out and the whole back of the cab is now all one. There was not any rust back behind it except a little surface rust up in the inner cab panel.

Shannon

[kustombrad]

Im diggin' all the great fab work! Very cool stuff!
Posted via Mobile Device

[xpickup]

kustombrad, Thank you . I am hoping that that gets ride of some of my buddies rust problems.

Shannon

[chevyrestoguy]

I can't believe that I've missed this thread. I am blown away at your fab skills. You do very nice work! I am really impressed at your enthusiasm to tear into stuff that most guys run away from. I won't overlook this thread again!

[xpickup]

chevyrestoguy, Thank you very much. My buddy bought the 48 truck and blasted it and was surprised at the rust and I told him that almost anything can be fixed. I was never afraid of tearing into anything and learn alot from just doing it. I was on your thread earlier and I am in the same boat as you on the car show thing and not having mine finish. I am hoping to aleast have my panel at least driveable next year.

Shannon

[oldman3]

Shannon, computors been in the shop since Monday, see you've been busy, nice job....Jim