55.2-59 1958 Saab story

[dsraven]

quote:
That means your fenders are narrower with wider hoods.

seems like all you need to do then is install 55-57 front sheet metal. easy peasy, done by supper. haha
post up your "fix" when you figure it out. good ingenuity so far so I have great hopes for your success.

[gottattooz]

I got the battery tray mounted to the bank of the header panel using the existing mounting bolts for the turn signal housings.

Then I figured out my desired for height for the rear. I notched the lip of the frame to insert a length of 1 inch square tubing to support the body.

-Josh

[gottattooz]

The rear inner fenders were resting on the upper taking arms, so I cut out the centers to clear the suspension. Now it rubs the top of the tires, but I can adjust the air suspension leveling valves to correct that.

I was also messing around with how I'll mount the rear bumper. There's a 3/4 inch gap between the frame and the bumper brackets that I'll have to figure out. My dad suggested 3/8 inch plates on either side to fill in the space.

-Josh

[dsraven]

it would be cool to see it with the new wheels in the openings, just to get a look at the stance and how they will fit the inner fenders at the rear.
nice job on making that all fit.

[dsraven]

I made my bumper mounts from the original trailer hitch. modified the hitch for my ride and bumper height, built in some rear box supports (in your case rear body mounts) and welded on some tabs for the bumper mounts so they are adjustable. i didn't have a stock rear bumper so I am using a cut down front bumper and it's brackets which I notched for the trailer receiver. I plan to tow my boat with it.

[dsraven]

will you need to raise the inner rear fenders in the end?

[dsraven]

I've had some practice with those air ride sensors for ride height. they are a pain to adjust and get level on both sides.
less air in the bags with a lower ride height may mean more chance of suspension bottoming. how do your snubbers look for wear?

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

will you need to raise the inner rear fenders in the end?

I'll adjust the ride height so it's comfortable and not bottoming out. If it has to go up a few inches, so be it.

-Josh

[dsraven]

its still gonna look cool even its gotta be a bit taller.
if you need a stock, body on, dimension at the rear shocks I can measure the links I made for mine with the body on. they simply went from lower to upper shock mount bolts.

[gottattooz]

If you could measure front the bottom of the frame to the ground, that'd be good enough for me.

-Josh

[dsraven]

Ok, first I will need to put the links back on. That may be a challenge but I'll see what I can do tomorrow after some parts errands. I gotta figure out how I will compress the rear springs to get the links back on. My come along is missing in action.

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Ok, first I will need to put the links back on. That may be a challenge but I'll see what I can do tomorrow after some parts errands. I gotta figure out how I will compress the rear springs to get the links back on. My come along is missing in action.

No rush. But I appreciate the effort

-Josh

[dsraven]

went out to get that dimension. forgot that I had taken the links off when I was mocking up the box and fenders. will search through the steel bin tomorrow prolly. busy day here today. sorry man.

[dsraven]

hey Josh, sorry man. I have looked everywhere for those links for the rear suspension stock height. can't find them. possibly somebody used them for a project or the wife has them hidden in the garden somewhere holding a plant up.

[gottattooz]

No worries. I appreciate the effort.

-Josh

[gottattooz]

So my new rotors came in. I started drilling the new bolt pattern. It takes forever, but it's gotta be done.

-Josh

[gottattooz]

I removed the front hub to press in the new studs when I remembered someone mentioning the hub centric bores might be smaller on newer wheels. Sure enough, the hub sticks out too far, so I'll cut it off flush with the rotor surface. More to follow.

-Josh

[dsraven]

its kinda good to have that raised area on the hub to keep the wheel "hub centric", as engineered, but if you cut that off so the wheel fits then ensure the studs you use fit the wheel stud bores well and you use the type of wheel nut required for the wheel. of course you would need to keep a small section so the rotor stays "hub centric". you could install the rotor and tighten down with a couple of wheel nuts, then use a scribe to mark the depth of the rotor flange, then you will know your "machine limits". chamfer the edge so it's easy to get the rotor on. when this wheel centering flange is removed it is the wheel studs taking the force of hitting bumps or potholes, I am sure you got that part though. in the end, if it works out and you are concerned about the impact forces, you could grab a couple of hubs and axles and have them machined to fit. its a good idea to keep one of your old rotors with the new wheel pattern so it's easy to mark a new rotor.
nice pics an progress. keep on postin. soon you'll driving.

[dsraven]

wheel nut types
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/154

[gottattooz]

I used the old rotor to make a groove with the cut off wheel, removed the rotor and finished cutting the excess off flush. Just as I'd hoped the new wheels are set back in about an inch from the lip of the fender. I ordered a pair of 255/45r18s for the front. It's a 26 inch diameter tire that should clear the fender nicely. I might have to raise the front suspension an in or two. We'll see.

And worse case scenario, if the front hub centric thing doesn't work, I'll just buy new hubs and try again.

-Josh

[dsraven]

Looks good with the color contrast.
Haven't got to the tire and fender rub when turning but when I undo the front suspension restraint links that keep it at the stock ride height I anticipate the body will lift off some as the old truck likely weighs less than the envoy did. I have some lowering struts to bring it back down. Then I will do a turning lock to lock thing at full jounce to see if the tires rub. If they do I may do what you have done and/or modify the wheel openings so the tires dont rub under any circumstances.

[dsraven]

do you have a pic from the perspective of looking towards the back through the headlight bucket holes? that usually shows the tire to fender clearance pretty well.

[gottattooz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

do you have a pic from the perspective of looking towards the back through the headlight bucket holes? that usually shows the tire to fender clearance pretty well.

I was going to take that picture, but the sidewall bulges out and you can't tell in pictures that there's any difference. When I get the other tires mounted, I'll post pictures.

-Josh

[dsraven]

those 255/45R18 = 27" tall tire by 10" wide on the tire size calculator I use.
https://tiresize.com/comparison/
the 2019 traverse 18 X 7.5" wheels are ET50 on the calculator I use.
https://www.wheel-size.com/size/chev...traverse/2019/
just curious if the calculators I have been using are not so accurate?
here is a calculator for wheel offsets that has a visual as well as text description
https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?whe...96875in&sr=0in
I like more meat on the sidewall for a squishier ride so I will go with the 17's and 235/60's. it's a personal preference thing.

[dsraven]

I looked again today for those rear suspension links for stock height. still missing, grrrr.
sorry man.