72 chevy modern swap

[Dieselwrencher]

I'd just search for cabs. Nice ones are out there but be prepared to spend $1000-$1200 for a nice one with nice doors. Sometimes you can find just cabs for $600. Go to a local swap meet, I'm sure there will be a vendor there with rust free beds. Usually those guys will find you parts if you ask them.

[7dee2]

Here's one, it's not cheap and not close but wow! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=664210

[SDfarms]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Here's one, it's not cheap and not close but wow! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=664210

my god thats crazy..

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by SDfarms

my god thats crazy..

I know, that's a new reproduction cab price right there.

[SDfarms]

Headers back from the miller! I also remembered I still had the one bolt broke off in the head so took two tries with the welder and pulled right out. Headers look great.

[ryanroo]

Holy biscuits.

[First c10]

If I were Richard Rollins I would give him $20k as long as it was filmed for TV!!

[First c10]

Hey lance what is the length of your front driveline? Maybe center to center of ujoints ?

[SDfarms]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey lance what is the length of your front driveline? Maybe center to center of ujoints ?

Sorry been away Ill get the measurements in the morning!

[SDfarms]

So started on changing the wiring harness also got my oil sending unit together looks like itll do the trick. I have a question I need help with this like quick because I want it all together by the end of the week.

[SDfarms]

There are to fused wires that I need help with. One that hooks up at the power block and one that ties in to all the power wires under the hood. They both go up to the gauge plug, what the heck are they for?

And there on wire that comes right off the plug I cant remember where it goes. Brown with a white stripe.

For others that have questions about starter wire you can eliminate the yellow wires, and the one red wire the comes off the plug. for the alternator you can do away with the plug that is mounted to the front clip. Consist of a red. white, blue, and brown wire.

[SDfarms]

Found out what both of the fused wires are for. Went down to our local body shop and they told me they are both for the ammeter. They pulled them outside the cab for better reading and to get away from clutter inside the cab. Maybe he's wrong, but good enough for me.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'm a little lost on how you're going to use a square body cab to fix your rust issues? Seems like the appropriate patch panels will go a lot farther than hacking a newer cab up and trying to get the stuff to fit............ Or are you just using flat sheet metal that is good from this cab to try and make patches for your cab?

[SDfarms]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I'm a little lost on how you're going to use a square body cab to fix your rust issues? Seems like the appropriate patch panels will go a lot farther than hacking a newer cab up and trying to get the stuff to fit............ Or are you just using flat sheet metal that is good from this cab to try and make patches for your cab?

The only difference from the 72 to the 80 chevy is the length of the creases in the back but are both the same width. Basically going to use them as a repair panel and the back of the cab is spotless.

[SDfarms]

Cabs mounted down and the front clips on! Need to finish running some lines for brakes. Its looking really good and will post a video of it running shorty.

[SDfarms]

Got a few pittily things done along the way. I smashed the bolt for the drag linkage with I removed it so just decided to get new ones. Only 20 bucks a piece so cheap buy. Shifters done and looking pretty tits.

[SDfarms]

Hoods on! And for anyone using the factory radiator in an ls swap I used a napa brand radiator hose #7364 this is the lower. I had to cut three inches off but worked like a charm. Upper hose which is the factory hose for a 2002 silverado went on good with some soap to lube it up.

[DWilbur]

Do you have any adjustment on the pivot ball for the fork. Is this an Advanced Adapters bell housing and hydraulic clutch. hard to tell looking at the pictures.

[SDfarms]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Do you have any adjustment on the pivot ball for the fork. Is this an Advanced Adapters bell housing and hydraulic clutch. hard to tell looking at the pictures.

Yes sir.

[SDfarms]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

Do you have any adjustment on the pivot ball for the fork. Is this an Advanced Adapters bell housing and hydraulic clutch. hard to tell looking at the pictures.

Got any info on it? Its driving me nuts not knowing whats wrong with this.

[DWilbur]

I don't have any info on the AA kit. I'm using Chevy bell housing and hydraulic clutch on my LS, NV4500 swap and you are further along than I. I should be installing my engine and trans this week end. I wish I had more info that would help you.

[SDfarms]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

I don't have any info on the AA kit. I'm using Chevy bell housing and hydraulic clutch on my LS, NV4500 swap and you are further along than I. I should be installing my engine and trans this week end. I wish I had more info that would help you.

On your chevy bellhousing how does the pivoting ball adjustment work? Just in and out I assume?

[cmabolt]

Lance, here is a pic of mine when I had issues. I used an adjustable pivot ball. The other issue is that your throwout bearing may not be long enough and consequently requires the fork to move to far to actuate the clutch. If this is the case
you will need to do some measuring to get the proper throwout bearing. I was not able to use the one that came with my clutch. I had to order a very long throwout bearing and my clutch fork doesn't have to move far at all to actuate the clutch.
Novak conversions has a write up on throwout bearings and how to measure for them to be correct for your setup. They have several methods so you don't necessarily have to pull it all apart if that is indeed your issue. Hate to say it, but sound
like it might be.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm scroll to the bottom and see section on measuring throwout bearing clearances.






Chris

[SDfarms]

Originally Posted by cmabolt

Lance, here is a pic of mine when I had issues. I used an adjustable pivot ball. The other issue is that your throwout bearing may not be long enough and consequently requires the fork to move to far to actuate the clutch. If this is the case
you will need to do some measuring to get the proper throwout bearing. I was not able to use the one that came with my clutch. I had to order a very long throwout bearing and my clutch fork doesn't have to move far at all to actuate the clutch.
Novak conversions has a write up on throwout bearings and how to measure for them to be correct for your setup. They have several methods so you don't necessarily have to pull it all apart if that is indeed your issue. Hate to say it, but sound
like it might be.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm scroll to the bottom and see section on measuring throwout bearing clearances.




Chris

Thanks Chris, Mine is bolted in from the front of the bellhousing. Its not really adjustable but theres over an inch of threads on it. I'm thinking Ill just put a spacer on it to see how that looks.

[cmabolt]

Anything is better than pulling it all apart again. Been there...

Good luck Lance!