67-72 Electric speedo

[1970 C10 MJW]

thanks for the update Eric i'm in no hurry lol.

[ls1nova71]

Well I FINALLY got them! They will be going out first thing in the morning. So according to my list these are the people who will be recieving them. If I missed anybody, let me know.

Cjohnson6772..........1
1970 c10 MJW..........1
67c10rustbucket.......2
Chuck MC8...............1
Captainfab...............2
HarleyT...................1
Mcbassin.................1
Wgeyer88................1

Thanks again for everyone's patience.
Eric

[68GMCCustom]

I just wish I knew how/where to pick up on the VSS signal... so I can get my new electric speedo working...

[Captainfab]

There should be an output from the PCM. Do you have the pinouts for your particular PCM? That should tell you which pin to connect to if there isn't already a wire there.

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I just wish I knew how/where to pick up on the VSS signal... so I can get my new electric speedo working...

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I just wish I knew how/where to pick up on the VSS signal... so I can get my new electric speedo working...

Looking at your sig, you're running GenIV engines. There isn't an output for speedometers in those PCM's. that said, there 'may' be a solution but I have not personally looked into it much. Dakota Digital is making a CAN BUS 'module' of sorts that allows you to use their aftermarket gauges, it plugs into the ALDL connector. Whether or not it would allow you to use it with other brands of gauges I can't say. Also if you just want gauges Speedhut also makes a line of CAN BUS gauges that will work.

[Captainfab]

I did not realize that. How is the speedo driven in the OEM applications then?

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Looking at your sig, you're running GenIV engines. There isn't an output for speedometers in those PCM's. that said, there 'may' be a solution but I have not personally looked into it much. Dakota Digital is making a CAN BUS 'module' of sorts that allows you to use their aftermarket gauges, it plugs into the ALDL connector. Whether or not it would allow you to use it with other brands of gauges I can't say. Also if you just want gauges Speedhut also makes a line of CAN BUS gauges that will work.

[68GMCCustom]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Looking at your sig, you're running GenIV engines. There isn't an output for speedometers in those PCM's. that said, there 'may' be a solution but I have not personally looked into it much. Dakota Digital is making a CAN BUS 'module' of sorts that allows you to use their aftermarket gauges, it plugs into the ALDL connector. Whether or not it would allow you to use it with other brands of gauges I can't say. Also if you just want gauges Speedhut also makes a line of CAN BUS gauges that will work.

Well....I installed an Autometer GPS unit for my electric speedometer, and a Painless GM/genIV tachometer driver that feeds off the crank sensor. My diagnostic port stays free this way....and will remain hooked to the Aeroforce scan gauge.

testing tomorrow!

[lts70]

Money sent for two speedo kits

[68GMCCustom]

Too late for other gauges...already invested in a set of AutoMeter's.





and temporarily using my AeroForce scan gauge for speed and tach...but would rather use it for other things and have speedo and tach working. I know about some of the $$$ solutions...was looking for the free (or nearly free) ones.

I'm sure I'll love it when everything is complete....but my LSx/carb setup was a whole bunch easier then dealing with the various issues of moving to efi in a non-efi vehicle.

[CSGAS]

Beetle and I are looking to be in the same boat soon, I think. I'll be interested in one of this kits, but only if I can hook up the speedo "directly" to the output plug on the trans. I'm most likely using a NV3500, I know there are two types of plugs that come in them. One type works with an ABS computer and the other doesn't. I'd also be open to using a "breadboard" kit and some resistors, etc to change the signal to what the speedo is used to getting from a computer.

My initial take on this was to get one of the aftermarket gauges that are programmable and work off the tailshaft signal. Then I learned about a few options I might find in the junkyard that seem to be petering out.

So, what I'm asking is, could you check to see what voltage, amperage, resistance, and how many pulses per "mile" the signals are on your transmission's tailshaft output, then on the signal the computer sends to your speedo setup?

If it looks feasible, I'll probably put in for a decal from the next batch. I might even do that if I have to resort to an aftermarket speedo anyway.

[Captainfab]

I got my decals and templates yesterday.....looks good. Thanks Eric

[1970 C10 MJW]

i did as well, now correct me if I am wrong, the numbers are just so I can paint the numbers on the back of my bezel, then the black face plate wants to get put inbetween the needle and plastic gauge mount, then cut out the trip, and odometer holes, then drill the hole for the trip reset, the two drawings, the one is a template for the cover for the speedo back what is the other one for? also how do i reset my odometer to read 000000.0? I have it tore down to just the speedo/odometer gauge, and the plastic face

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by CSGAS

So, what I'm asking is, could you check to see what voltage, amperage, resistance, and how many pulses per "mile" the signals are on your transmission's tailshaft output, then on the signal the computer sends to your speedo setup?

I honestly have no idea how you would go about making something to do this, this level of electronic stuff is way over my head. I believe the VSS puts out an AC current and the PCM changes it. I do know that it's a 4000ppm signal out of the PCM that runs the speedo.

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I got my decals and templates yesterday.....looks good. Thanks Eric

Thanks for letting me know!

Originally Posted by 1970 C10 MJW

i did as well, now correct me if I am wrong, the numbers are just so I can paint the numbers on the back of my bezel, then the black face plate wants to get put inbetween the needle and plastic gauge mount, then cut out the trip, and odometer holes, then drill the hole for the trip reset, the two drawings, the one is a template for the cover for the speedo back what is the other one for? also how do i reset my odometer to read 000000.0? I have it tore down to just the speedo/odometer gauge, and the plastic face

Yes, the number one is a stencil that you use to paint the numbers on the INSIDE of the lens, just like the factory did. The "face" you will put directly onto the S-10 face, then you're correct, you cut out the odometer and trip holes with a sharp, preferably new, X-Acto knife blade, that's what I found works the best. One template is for the back cover, the other one is what mounts the S-10 speedo parts to your 67-72 back dash tin. You need to cut out the original speedo mounting area. I'm going to do another one, and take a bunch of pics so everyone can see exactly how it's done, but it might be a week or two before I can get around to it.
As for resetting the odometer, the right side of it just pops into the plastic piece, take it out, carefully remove the plastic part on te underside that holds all the numbers in line, and start rotating it until the are all to 0. It takes some playing with it to get it done, but you can do it. After you're done put the plastic piece back on and pop it back in.

[wgeyer88]

After popping the odometer out of the speedometer, be VERY CAREFUL when removing the small plastic piece holding the tabs together. Without the piece the odometer will not work correctly again. I used a small screwdriver and slowly pushed it off going back and forth across all the tabs. It takes a while to figure out how to get all the numbers to read 0000000, but once you do it's fairly simple.

[Daaaanz67]

Do you have any of these templates left?
Posted via Mobile Device

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Daaaanz67

Do you have any of these templates left?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes, I have 6 left, but am going to use one in my upcoming tutorial, so I actually have 5 left to sell.

On a side note, did you get your cruise control going yet?

[Daaaanz67]

Actually I'm having troubles getting that cruise going. I have it hooked up per your instructions on another post and it still won't work. Been reviewing my schematics and getting ready to test wires from tac module to the wires I pulled into cab just to make sure they are correct. Funny thing I was getting ready to ask for help on that other ls cruise post. My drive train is 06 ls out of a Tahoe with a 4l60e and been driving it since last July of 2011 it has the new style brake switch and the brake lights are connected and working. I will pm you for one of those templates thanks.
Posted via Mobile Device

[1970 C10 MJW]

bump for an update, also curious what kind of metal you used for the speedo backer plate

[cjohnson6772]

I apologize if I've missed this: how did you wire this to the truck's harness? Did you cut the male end off of the original underdash harness? I would prefer to leave the original harness in tact with the male plug that goes into the factory cluster. Is this possible?
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

I'd like to get one of these, if they're still available.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 1970 C10 MJW

bump for an update, also curious what kind of metal you used for the speedo backer plate

I haven't worked on my truck much lately, just too cold, and I need it to be done before I can do the detailed write up, but I will do it. I did hook the speedo I just made for my beater truck up to my car, an '03 Sunfire, and put about 50 miles on it, and it's dead accurate up to at least 85 MPH, with the exception of between 0 and 5 MPH, as the needle needed to be put on at around the 2 MPH mark, but at the angle it's mounted in the truck, it looks like the needle is at 0 when stopped.

The metal is just 18-20 gauge sheet metal.

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

I apologize if I've missed this: how did you wire this to the truck's harness? Did you cut the male end off of the original underdash harness? I would prefer to leave the original harness in tact with the male plug that goes into the factory cluster. Is this possible?
Posted via Mobile Device

Yes, I cut the male end off of the truck harness. I tried using part of the printed circuit at first, but it wasn't looking like it would be a very reliable way of wiring it. Also, I couldn't find a female plug that would plug into the factory harness. And since you'll have to add some wires for the speedometer (and in my case, a check engine light too) anyway, I just went to the junkyard and found a connector assembly and wired it in on both sides so it does unplug and you can remove it easily. It's wired just like you would wire any aftermarket guages.

Originally Posted by lts70

Money sent for two speedo kits

PM sent

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I'd like to get one of these, if they're still available.

I have 3 left, I'll send you a PM.

[Daaaanz67]

I also want one
Posted via Mobile Device

[wgeyer88]

Eric,

Are you still planning on doing a tutorial on this? I've been putting my cluster on hold until I see more details on how it's done. Don't want to mess up the cluster and have to start all over again... I think I've got everything figured out except mounting plate in the rear.

Thanks
Will

[ls1nova71]

Yes, I still plan on doing a more detailed write up, but have to find the time. The weather around here has been completely stupid, and I haven't been in the garage as much as usual.

But if you think you have it figured out, just ask any questions on whatever you may not be clear on, and I can answer them. What is it you're unsure about on the mounting plate?

[eagleuh1]

Eric, I'll take one of those kits too. I'll get to the post office today for the check. PM you on the address. Thanks. Jim