1949 Chevy 3100 Build Thread

[Flysocal]

The engine and tranny are now between the frame rails. Mounts aren't welded just getting clearance issues sorted. It's definitely tight need a tranny tunnel but looks like everything will work out fine. Block huggers fit. There is room for the steering shaft although it's gonna be fun figuring out all the u joints because it's not a direct hit to the steering column. Crank pulley is about an inch from the steering rack. Sure feels good to have the engine between the rails

[Flysocal]

Any suggestions on steering linkage appreciated. My rack is 36 spline I believe so I'm thinking of using borgeson u joint with 36 spline to 1DD thinking of going with their vibration isolator joint at the rack. Run 1DD shaft under engine mount and headers then up just aft of headers.

[solidaxel]

FWIW I used rubber bushings on the rack and had a bit of PS fluid leak and now the rack bushings are junk !

[joedoh]

borgeson is great stuff!

I am not a steering expert but is there a way to mount the spine side at the rack with a straight union and length of DD then just run two ujoints, one at the end of the DD and another at the column? seems to me that eveyone uses a center support and three u joints.

[oldman3]

joedoh, on my rack set-up I have a u-joint and the rack, then DD the a u-joint at the column, will try to get pics tomorrow. Each set-up is different, depending on headers column, etc...Jim

[74project]

Borgenson all the way. Drive mine every day and I'm glad I didn't cut costs with the steering when going 90 on the freeway.

[84blaze]

Subscribed

[Flysocal]

No limit tank mocked up

[jkeating1]

Great build! I like every decision. I had a couple of questions

In post 66 you decided to switch from frame-mounted master cyl & booster to firewall-mount--any particular reason?

In post 94 you referred to "weldable nuts"--are you just talking about regular nuts welded on, or something special-purpose?

[Flysocal]

I just didn't like the idea of my master cylinder being under the cab. My access panel will be covered with carpet and I don't want the hassle. In fact, I'm welding over the tranny access, battery cover basically everything in the cab.

As far as weldable nuts, there is such thing. I've used them extensively on this build. You can weld common nuts but you might breathe toxic fumes and they melt and are difficult to weld, I don't like to.

[Flysocal]

Got the engine and tranny tacked in today. Hooker block huggers were going to make steering shaft problematic so I switched to cast hooker headers. Adequate room for steering shaft I think but did require a cutout on the passenger side frame.

[Flysocal]

Feels good to have engine and tranny where they belong. Engine position is good. Don't need to recess my firewall but I will need to run corvette accessories since it's tight. My GMPP "muscle car" oil pan will not work. I've got 6" from the bottom of engine block to bottom of crossmember so I will need to run an f body oil pan. They are 5.7" deep so it will be just slightly higher than crossmember and will be protected.

[Flysocal]

Transmission crossmember is another Scotts hotrods piece. I really like the center drop out feature.

[oldman3]

Looking good...Jim

[Advanced Design]

Looks very good! I had to do the same cut out on the right side frame.

[iowaboynca]

I really like your attention to details. Very nice.

[Tikal48]

Nice progress! There are many times that I wish that I had stuck with the original frame. Keep up the good work!

[Flysocal]

I tried my best to avoid a tranny hump but couldn't. With the engine exactly where I want it, a tranny hump was necessary. All I needed was 1" forward or down. If I brought the engine forward 1" (accessory fitment too tight to radiator even with corvette accessories) or down 1" even an f-body oil pan would be below my crossmember. Oh well no biggie I just liked the idea of a flat floor.

[iowaboynca]

Still not to shabby. Nice job.

[STOCKISH]

Nice work man

[Flysocal]

Somebody needs to do a sticky on how to best fit an ls motor in these trucks. So far I've learned anything will fit with enough messaging but best to use f-body oil pan, corvette accessories and hooker cast headers. These allow for the most clearance and it's still tight!

Anyway, I installed the fbody oil pan and it fits much better. Working on my steering linkage now. Here are pics of my first attempt. It works but I'm not happy with it. Had to notch motor mount for shaft clearance. The angles on the double u joint are more extreme than it would be if I used 2 joints so I've got a couple more joints on order with summit. I'm getting mixed reviews on vibration isolators but for an extra $40 what the hell.

[Flysocal]

The shaft support doesn't touch the headers maybe 1/4 or 1/2" clearance but like I said it's tight as hell.
And for the record it's much easier to graft a hoop onto an old wheel than to reduce the original. Here is a 54 wheel with 70s camaro hoop. The hub diameter matches the Ididit column nicely.

[Advanced Design]

Nice work! Do you have any details on the mod's to the steering wheel?

[Flysocal]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice work! Do you have any details on the mod's to the steering wheel?

You will see on page 2 or 3 I modified a 54 wheel by cuttings the spokes out of the hoop. Then reducing the hoop by hand before welding the spokes back in. This method is very time consuming because you need a lot of epoxy to fill the gapping holes. Then you have to sculpt the knurles and shape with files and sandpaper. The hoop will tear drop and will drive you mad trying to get everything perfect like a factory wheel. I was happy with my first attempt but knew I could do better.

On my second attempt I used a 1970 camaro solid plastic wheel (they also had soft plastic don't use it). Swapped the spokes with a 54 truck wheel. A little epoxy and much less sculpting. Much easier and better results. Lesson learned: don't attempt to reduce a wheel rather find a hoop with the correct diameter from a swap meet or ebay and graft the spokes!!

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Flysocal

You will see on page 2 or 3 I modified a 54 wheel by cuttings the spokes out of the hoop. Then reducing the hoop by hand before welding the spokes back in. This method is very time consuming because you need a lot of epoxy to fill the gapping holes. Then you have to sculpt the knurles and shape with files and sandpaper. The hoop will tear drop and will drive you mad trying to get everything perfect like a factory wheel. I was happy with my first attempt but knew I could do better.

On my second attempt I used a 1970 camaro solid plastic wheel (they also had soft plastic don't use it). Swapped the spokes with a 54 truck wheel. A little epoxy and much less sculpting. Much easier and better results. Lesson learned: don't attempt to reduce a wheel rather find a hoop with the correct diameter from a swap meet or ebay and graft the spokes!!

Thanks Flysocal...your wheel came out well.